aefron88

I would adjust valve lash, and drain and fill the fuel, as it is likely stale if it's been sitting and may have a pocket of water at the bottom of the tank.

Not famlar with that model, but most hisuns being very similar: can you try unplugging the box under the hood labeled "speed limiter"? If there's not a box, I believe there is a wire you can cut, but I don't know the details, I believe "motorcycledoctor" has some info on disabling the speed limiter on older models in their info part of theor site.

Normally yes it touches coolant and you'll need to drain below that level and refill after replacement. When you refill the radiator, these things can be a bear to bleed all the air from the cooling system. Any air left will lead to more overheating issues. There's a plug on the right side of the engine where the rad hose goes in that you can partially loosen while running to help bleed air.

The UT400-5 (the fuel injected version that was being manufactured something like 2018-today) the key is on the right side of the steering column simular to most cars. There is a vestigial hole where the key used to mount in the dash in the 400-4 (carbed model) As far as the stalk not sure what you're asking? Normally all this comes installed from the factory. Here is a pic of how it normally looks fresh out of the crate. Just have to bolt on the cage/roof/steeringwheel/backrest/sidemirrors. Go to the downloads section of this site, under chisun" you'll find the HS-400 factory service manual. The body chapter may have steering column info you need. There is also a good wiring diagram (last page) that shows pictures if each plug and pinouts so you can match what you're looking for re:ignition switch.

Straight from the FSM (available in the downloads section) Service intervals: So 10hrs/50 miles for breaking. 100 hours/500 miles for regular oil changes per the manufacturer. Valve lash: Seafoam as mentioned is not a cure all. If you have water in the fuel or its stale (which it is if it wasnt stabilized and its more than a month or two old) I would siphon out what you can and put fresh stuff in. Old fuel can be slowly mixed in with your car fuel to dilute it so it burns properly. Techron is a good injector cleaner additive (or anything with PEA) if you think you need that, but these multec 2.5 injectors are pretty cheap anyway.

Try playing with the adjustment. The 500/550's don't have the same shifter cable/lever issues as the 40's but the cable can stretch over time. If you're getting grinding and popping out of gear it could be worn clutch dogs too, which require some effort to replace as they're internal to the transmission. If you're having shift issues and grinding it's best to be proactive about adjusting because it does damage the dogs over time, and eventually will just pop out of gear at will once the dogs are rounded enough.

2nd Greg's recommendation. Resetting the computer will zero out all the sensors, IAVV and throttle position, fuel trim, etc. From there if that doesn't fix it let us know and we can help further troubleshoot.

That's correct on the MA oil. Some of the info in that post is wrong. There are two things moving the power from the engine to the drivetrain: first there's a wet centrifugal clutch, from that drives the primary cvt pulley, which has a belt to the secondary. The friction material on the clutch is prone to slipping with use of additives "energy Conserving II" API rated oils, which are used in most car oils. Cars use a dry transmission, most motorcycles use a wet clutch where the clutch plates are bathed in oil. The MA rated oils don't have that additive which causes wet clutch slip issues. See attached picture of the friction disc of the wet clutch. Yellow stuff is the friction material. Once it starts slipping you get rapid wear, and also a lot of crud in your oil. Generally speaking conventional vs synthetic, synthetic oils have more uniform molecules and hence lubricate better and resist more wear and tear before going out of spec. They also typically have better additive packages, because the manufacturer expects them to be used for more mileage. Conv vs synth it makes little difference, and I would lean towards changing oil early on these machines being a large single cylinder ("thumper") they get more wear and tear than a normal car engine, and also I've read a fair number of timing chain stretching issues, which is typically an issue with accelerated wear of the pins holding the chain.

Synthetic vs conventional has nothing to do with clutch slippage. The clutch slip is caused by viscosity modifiers used in "Energy Conserving" oils (you'll see that with the API Starburst ratings). JASO MA rated oils are designed to work properly with wet clutches used in Japanese bikes, as well as ATV/UTVs etc that use wet clutches. Do not use a non JASO-MA rated oil unless you can confirm it is wet clutch safe, and afaik the only common non MA rated oil that is ok is Rotella.

They both need to be fully off their respective cam lobes. You can either look at the cam or pull the spark plug and look through the hole with a flashlight. It's much easier to spin the engine over by hand with the plug pulled since you're not fighting the compression.

Have you tried resetting the ECU? Likely something funky happened with the IAC settings or the fuel trim. When running rev it to redline in neutral, and shut it off with the pedal still floored. Wait 5 seconds and then let off the pedal and restart as normal ...or you can use the codescanner method if you have the codescan cables and HUD ECU hacker

This is correct JASO MA oil is a requirement for wet clutches, other motor oils are "Energy Conserving II" and will cause wet clutch slippage, and rapid wear. The manuals I've seen out of Hisun/Coleman are not explicit or don't mention it at all.

The dash 7 means version 7 of the 700 model. Lot to unpack there. Goodluck on the head and let us know what you find.

Yep post a picture. Nothing is done with steering in final assembly except bolting on the steering wheel.

You might have better luck in the "coleman" forum. Yes the TSC oil change kit should be ok. Make sure the oil is ok for a wet clutch, there are UTV/ATV/Motorcycle specific oils or Shell Rotella that are wet clutch compatable. As far as plugs look up the iridium cross reference. Some people have gone up a heat range to reduce fouling, but you run the risk of knocking.

I would try valves first. I found mine were a bit wonky even new from the factory. Also, presumably you've made sure you have good fresh fuel in the tank? There is a way to see engine parameters if you need to troubleshoot anything with EFI rather than just throwing parts at it.

Either the $350 TS-301 or this solution for any Delphi MT-05 based vehicle

there's a nipple under the oil filter that is the water pump weep hole. It shouldn't have oil coming out, you may get a tiny bit of coolant from time to time if the water pump seal is weeping. if theres a flow the water pump seal has failed and you'll need a new water pump.

That's not a code, that's the model... HS700-revision 7 The million dollar question is why does yours think its a 700cc? you sure its a 550? These things are rougher on plugs than a normal vehicle, just like most small engines. Have you checked the valve clearances? Have you noticed the higher heat range plug resisting fouling any better? Do you have too much oil in the crankcase? You shouldn't need 93 octane.

Are you talking about an electric heater? if yes its likely too much current. There might be 10 amps of available current coming out of the rectifier that isn't already claimed by the ECU and factory lights. 10 amps @ 12V = 120 Watts, which is about what an electric heating pad runs. If you're talking about a fan for a engine coolant based heater it's probably ok. If you have accessories and the running voltage is below 13.5V you have too much stuff attached. If the battery light comes on it means the battery is actively being discharged while running. Stator based charging systems on these things and tractors etc are really meant to power the ECU and factory systems not to provide a lot of extra power for other stuff, it's not like the alternator on a car.

There's no choke on the newer hisun/coleman UTV's. They are fuel injected. The older ones were carberauted, not sure what year they switched maybe 2015-2017ish?. The older coleman branded manual incorrectly shows a choke lever on the dash, as well as some other antiquated info. Cold start issues could be a bunch of things, I would start with valves and plug (they're right there together), move on to fuel, fuel filter, and injector, and if still having issues I would check the ECT sensor. I have heard of some failing. If the ECU thinks the engine is warm it will not inject the extra fuel required for a cold start. In the downloads section of this site there is a fairly comprehensive factory service manual for these available.

look in the downloads section on this site for coleman/hisun theres a full wiring diagram for this unit for the HS400 with diagrams of the connectors. see if you can match it to one of the connectors on the diagram.

There are 3d interactive instructions in the Bilt App unfortunately you'll need a smartphone or tablet to access them. If you have any questions feel free to post here. Most of it is pretty self explanatory except how the roll cage bolts together.

There are some configuration settings that can be changed, I believe idle speed is one of them. It can also adjust fuel mapping if you really want to squeeze those extra 0.2 ponies that these things are likely capable of, but I'm not brave enough to play with that.