aefron88

I don't see why it wouldn't work, its attached solidly to the front of the frame distributing the load. I'm a bit wary of mounting a snowplow or other pushing implements on these due to the issues people have with wet clutches already. Adding all that extra load at low speed is guaranteed excess clutch wear.

I cant remember which model i chose that diagram off of, any of the models labeled "older" with carbs should be similar. All of these things are essentially identical with scaled parts and different chassis/bodies. A lot, but not all, of the parts are directly interchangeable. Pulling a carbed model diagram off another Hisun UTV all the plumbing and wiring should be the same to where you can at least see how its meant to be setup. The actual "yardsport" branded models are pretty rare I've only ever seen a few of them posted, but they're the same as the earlier UT400 pre-EFI.

To add to what others have posted the most common UTV injuries are ejections (IE no seatbelt) or arm/leg injuries where those get outside the cage. If you do roll it the cage only protects you if you and your appendages stay inside, like a ROPS on a tractor. Driver and passenger need seatbelt, feet on the floor, drivers hands on the wheel, and passenger needs to grab the grab bar (thats why the passengers side on most models has a grab bar or t-bar). Probably not going to roll it over at low speeds on flat terrain working in the yard. Offroad trail riding can be a different story.

I'm not familar with the older carbed models, but pretty sure this is made by Hisun. Looking at diagrams might it be pat of the EGR circuit? Tubing would be #18 in below diagram, hooking to an oil/fuel separator #15 below. There also should be some sort of diaphragm based fuel pressure regulator on those too I believe. You can go on alpha sports website and look at diagrams for the older Hisun 400 models and they should match.

Mile for mile a UTV is going to be more than driving even an inefficient car unfortunately. They don't go a lot of miles before dying, 10k miles is the lifespan on a lot of machines, vs 100k+ on even the poorest cars. You will likely need repairs during that 10k, tires wear extremely fast vs a comparable car, etc etc. If you amortize the purchase price of eben the cheapest models over 10k miles, you're looking at over $1 per mile alone. If cost is a such a factor you're probably looking at the wrong hobby unfortunately.

Impact gun would be my first thought. The nut isn't staked is it? Otherwise you could pull the cvt cover off and try getting a big strap wrench to hold the secondary from turning. Assuming your 1 way bearing is working you could also remove the spark plug, put a rope in the cylinder and jam it close to TDC. Put it in gear and that should keep the driveline from turning.

Check the valve lash? It's fairly common for it to be off from the factory, and it does change as the engine wears over time.

yes, it would be an issue. the R light tells the speed limiter to kick in. The speed limiter keeps the speed low when reversing because if you cut the wheels over suddenly when reversing at high speed it can easily cause a rollover. This is a pretty common safety feature among most brands of UTV/ATV.

Usually on a dry clutch you can get away with cleaning em up like you did if it's not too bad. The belt itself usually just rides on the sides, not on the flat bottom, which allows the CVT sheaves to grip the belt as they change sizes dynamically. Any chance you're hauling heavy loads/plowing snow/towing or lots of low speed driving? Most of these things likely use a wet centrifugal clutch because of glazing/heat issues. Usually dry clutches are limited to really low HP applications like go karts or chainsaws because they tend to overheat and glaze like what you're seeing under heavy loads.

Trails? Motorcycle helmet. Riding around the yard at lowish speeds doing yardwork? Nothing or maybe a logging style hardhat if i'm doing chainsaw work

I work on a ship that travels between Houston, Southern Lousiana, and Florida...miserable all summer. I dont know how you guys manage it. I never seem to find the right balance between staying hydrated and peeing constantly. I have worked asphalt barges in Lousiana in the summer too. 300 degree cargo means the temperatures on deck are even hotter since it radiates through the steel. Much nicer at home in Maine the other half of the year.

If my understanding is correct Honda uses mostly what would be considered a conventional transmission in their models, where as most SxS's use a belt driven CTV. The belt drive will be a lot less efficient at transmitting power from the engine to the wheels. More friction + heat = less MPG. OP, if you're really stuck on MPG your best bet would be to buy something like a Honda (I believe there are some other models from other manufacturers too) that isnt belt driven. Realistically the price difference between models likely works out to more than the savings in gas costs though

Which light are you referring to? post a picture. These SxS's have a full time locking rear axle which is common with a lot of ATVs and UTVs by design.

Seth, why not start a new thread instead of posting on an old dead one. Give us a better description of exactly what happened and any troubleshooting you've done and we can try to help

got a picture so we can see where we're talking about, where was this thing roughly? the exhaust takes up the whole rear of the vehicle if you include the muffler. The starter relay is right next to the battery.

Not sure why you're seeing a link, one isnt posted. Yes US MPG. Yes its a general guess that i've read for 500ish CC UTVs. Like I said a heay emphasis on +- i'm sure its possible to get way way less with heavy acceleration, hills, or low speed driving/idling. I would not base anything on it other than maybe saying for trail riding it gives you a rough tank estimate. I would plan on half that for range between gas stations to be safe unless carying a fuel can. I dont have any first hand experience as I typically do a lot of low speed & idling in the yard hauling stuff around, so my MPG is way below that maybe as low as 5.

grease "needle" not the sharp kind for ball joints, but a slightly less pointy one that clips into the end of your grease gun. Theyre sub $10 on amazon and you can sneak into the hard to reach tiny u-joints on these things.

you can get bluetooth helmet speaker/mics that are meant for motorcycles that communicate with each other directly (no phone or radio required). there are several brands in the sub $40 (each) price range on amazon with good reviews.

One is for the overheat light, and one feeds the ECU coolant temp for fuel mapping adjustments. I believe the one on the head itself is the ECU one. There's also a third one in the radiator that controlls the fan.

Its going to vary on driving style, conditions, acceleration. I've read a very general 20ish MPG for ggenerallonger range mid speed cruising on UTVs in this engine class. Obviously that will vary quite a bit.

The factory installed filters are above the fuel tank and shouldnt really be exposed to heat. Due to it being EFI and having higher fuel pressures I would recommend a metal filter. On the carbed models the fuel pressures are a lot lower and a plastic filter is ok. The price difference is negligible between the two, the only advantage of plastic is you can usually see the condition of the filter.

you may need to adjust it wears they are not self adjusting like on a car. theres a bolt and locknut on that center caliper. With the parking brake released, loosen the locknut and tighten the bolt with your fingers till sung, then back off a turn, and tighten the locknut. Check that the parking brake pedal doesnt bottom out, and you dont get any squealing when driving or you may need to re-adjust.

sounds like you figured it out, but for others who come across this thread: it's the black finned thing under the hood just to the drivers side of center.

There are probably more than one set of contacts. Glad you got it all sorted.

If you have a powersports shop that works on clutches you could get them to put heavier rollers that will keep the cvt in lower "gearing" at the expense of top speed.