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Hi Greg. Thanks for the warning re: the belt. Interestingly, the manual states that only the rollers should be greased and it doesn't mention that the sliders should be. As a result I greased the rollers and not the sliders. The sliders have hard plastic inserts that should slide (and wear) well against the dry sheave assembly grooves. It specs 90g of grease to be used on the rollers, which is about a handful. Like you, I felt this to be a bit excessive and used less. Given the heat and centrifugal forces within the sheave, I will not be surprised if I find that the grease has been evenly distributed when I open it up next. If I have to spend some money on sheave parts, I will be looking for a setup that will provide me a bit more speed. There are aftermarket sheave kits that provide both lower and higher gearing. 😁

Hi Greg. Interesting approach. I had run across an aftermarket option that adds a '2nd' muffler across the rear of the chassis under the box overhang and thought it might be something to consider. I will keep this flex pipe idea in mind. I will start with earplugs- this should reduce the noise for me. If neighbors complain, I will consider other options. 🙂

Hi All. I did a bit more research on this issue and the leak is coming from the 'weep hole' on the water pump. Coolant will drip from weep hole when the coolant seal within the water pump begins to leak. Oil will drip from the weep hole when the engine oil seal within the water pump begins to leak. The purpose of the weep hole is to prevent coolant system pressure from forcing coolant past the oil seal and into the engine. I have ordered a new water pump so suspect that will fix it. Thanks! Research findings: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dAsu66SkMVA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=it-TFg3ulYI

Hi All. I believe that I found the problem. Where it was raining today I dismantled the primary sheave assembly and the grease had hardened and piled up against the outer reaches of sheave travel (see attached photos - yikes!). I performed the primary clutch sheave service as described in the service manual. The diameter of the weights were within spec but a couple of them had flat spots. I also noticed that the steel plate had grooves worn in it in a couple of spots, and the primary sheaves appeared to have 'grooves' where the belt was prevented from riding any higher on them. I cleaned everything up, re-greased and re-installed. In neutral the belt will now ride up to the top of the primary sheave but only if you accelerate the engine hard. It still prefers to run in the 'groove' but I am hopeful that with the additional load introduced by the machine that the groove will not play as big a role. 🤔

Hi Greg. I was trying to avoid loosening / adjusting the exhaust header bolts as they do not appear to have been touched since originally assembled at the factory. 🙂 I did check the bearing at the rotor end of the driveshaft and it didn't have any noticeable play. Thanks for the response!

Hello All! I heard a dripping noise after checking my drive belt for bearing noise (see other post). I was able to determine that it was coming from a protrusion under the passenger side of the engine - see attached video. Any idea what this is and what is likely required to repair it? Thanks in advance! IMG-0235.MOV

Hi All! I thought that the drive system was making a bit more noise than I expected so I secured the belt drive cover aside and ran up the rpms in neutral to check for bearing noise, etc. There wasn't any noise but I did notice that the primary sheave did not close as far as I expected, the belt only came within ~3/4" from the top of the sheave. See video link below (I was unable to upload it directly). I ran the RPMs up 5,000 (manual indicates that this is max for this engine). Is this expected behavior or should I remove the primary sheave and check roller diameters, clean & re-grease everything? I will be traveling with newer machines so want to be sure that I can travel as fast as this machine is capable. 🙂 Thanks in advance! https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/qof63w1kohal8wzmikfpt/IMG_0234.MOV?rlkey=j4h8ejm0ogjvlluyy5olagvrn&dl=0

Hi All. I wanted to provide an update. I overcame this particular issue by manufacturing a couple of 1/8" shims to place between the rear engine mounts and the chassis. This provided ~3/8" of clearance between the park brake rotor and the exhaust pipe which should be sufficient. Thanks!

Hello Stephanie. The dumpbox on my 2011 HiSun 700 is not electric. Pull the lever on the front corner of the dump box and tip it up. 🙂

Hi All. I have been performing some maintenance on my 'new-to-me' 2011 HS700. Typical maintenance items: front wheel bearings, stuck brake caliper sliders, brake pads, caliper rubbers, exhaust bushings, lower shock bushings. Upon replacing the exhaust bushings I noticed that the park brake rotor is contacting the exhaust (right where the bushing goes). It would have previously not been in contact only as a result of the bushing having been worn out. Has anyone run into this issue and if so, how were you able to fix it? I am currently considering a shim under the rear engine mounts to get a bit of clearance between the exhaust bushing and the park brake rotor. Thanks!

Hello All. I am unable to find any other references to the 'Rhino 700 kit' other than water pump and engine rebuilds. Is anyone able to provide a link? Thanks in advance!

Hello All. I am planning on purchasing a 2013 HiSun 700 UTV and am interested in any shop manuals that may be available. Happy to see that this board has a section for HiSun owners!