aefron88

I didn't have a squealing issue on mine when I did this, it was essentially brand new and only had a couple miles on it. It was definitely too tight from the factory, and it won't hurt to adjust. It's also quick and easy to do.

Just the one box of what I posted at the bottom of the other thread. Still have half a box left over. You should be able to measure what you want to cover and make a good guess sqft wise.

I just figured I'd get under the metal bed which seemed to resonate the engine/exhaust noise the most. I guess I could also do the inside of the plastic behind your feet. I also avoided under the wheel wells because on the Coleman 400 there are no rear fender liners and I was concerned that it would be an issue with mud getting kicked up.

Find any blown fuses? Still having issues?

My experience with sound deadening mat. It definitely helped bring the noise level down on my 400, and the cost is really minimal. I didn't go too crazy with it just under the center of the bed, but it was a noticeable improvement.

WEUPE Sound Deadening Mat for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YNYBM5J?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

My best guess is that the spline on the fwd end of the driveshaft is stripped out, but only one way to find out...

Sounds like your rear axle/driveshaft are ok. I don't see a reason to check the front, as we know that is fine. If you flip the rubber part you can check where the rear driveshaft goes into the motor. The splines may be stripped out. You may need to remove the shaft by disconnecting the rear u-joint, and pull it out to get a good look at the splines. Sorry I'm not 100% sure on this model as this part is a bit different on my 400.

Hey Rick, I'm not familiar with the 700, but I can try. When it's in gear and you try to drive it in 2wd does the rear driveshaft spin at all? Can you grab rear driveshaft and give it a strong wiggle on both ends and make sure the u-joints are still intact? There shouldn't be any play on either.

Correct, sorry if I forgot to mention that. Like any 4 stroke the cam goes a half turn for a full turn of the crank. Glad you got your issue sorted! Hopefully you get another 5900 miles!

Joe, do you have a volt meter? What is the voltage on the battery with the machine off? How about with the engine running? They do have a small parasitic draw just like almost every other vehicle, and the battery will drain over time. With any toy that isn't used frequently you should hook up a battery tender or small solar panel, or unhook the battery when not in use so it will work when you want it to.

Well if you want to I have a post on how to read engine ECU and adjust parametera. The ability to adjust fuel mapping is in the software, but I have not played with it.

Good to hear! Fingers crossed you don't have any further issues.

It should say on the back. The exception being that Shell Rotella does not say it's MA and it's ok to use. I don't believe regular Amsoil is MA rated, but I'm sure they do sell some MA rated oils that labeled for motorcycles/powerboats use. Here's the relevant section frm your document. For each weight of oil it lists the specs that it meets; API SN, Ford or GM blah blah...no MA or MA2 for any of the oils listed.

I don't have a specific source aside from the various parts sites that everyone is aware of. Amazon also seems to carry em. Multec 3.5 injectors have a factory spec of 12 ohms @ 20⁰C. I'm not sure how far that you can stray before it's considered out of spec. As long as it's the right size you won't get any gains, you can adjust the fuel mapping using some free software and about $25 in cabling, but I doubt there's much to be gained on a motor of such small displacement.

In my experience with "structural" items that may see a lot of flex or pressure the best bet is to use something like this. bondo doesnt flex enough and will fall off, certain epoxies may be ok in lower stress situations. The staple welder style tool above gives the plastic real structure to stay together long term.

Amautv, Did you ever remove the bearing? How did it work out?

Let me know how it goes, and if it fixes your issues or if we need to further troubleshoot.

That's quite the paint chip. No telling what else ended up in the injector. There is an internal screen filter, but it would end up largely plugged if something that size made it thru the line. You can always just cary a spare injector onboard and swap if you have another issue. It doesn't take much to swap em.

The brake switch is above the pedal. When you depress the brake are you getting brake lights? If so it's fine. When you jump the solenoid it will bypass the safeties, it needs to be in neutral to start. You never mentioned if you are getting the "N" neutral light on the dash before trying to start. Here is the page from the service manual, Since we know it starts when jumped I skipped the page checking the wiring. Basically check the brake light switch, neutral swich, and testing procedures for the solenoid (item 4 above).

When the key is in the on position you get power to the dash correct? Is the shifter light for neutral lighting up? I believe it needs to be in neutral to start.

Yep that plug is definitely shot. You got it on the valve adjustment. It's a lot easier than it sounds just takes a little contortion to get in there. I have a post here explaining how to do it on the 400 with pictures. The 550 should be very similar

You may very well have zero lash. Back off the adjusters and go from there. As long as it's off the cam lobe you should be ok to adjust em. Yes this may cause a hard/no start situationnloss of power, poor runbing, etc. If the valves are slightly open you will loose compression.

I would check the valves and replace fuel filter before throwing parts at it. The fan cover isn't that bad, and you can get away with just pulling the top bolts and flexing it a little. Pull the spark plug and the engine is easy to spin by hand.

Paint chip is no good, but doubtful that it made it thru the filter, so it's likely been there, or got knocked off when you were working on removing things. Code 201 indicates that it is getting a weak or unexpected signal from the injector. The fuel metering is done by pulsing the injector open. The ECU expects it to be X resistance and it gets Y resistance instead and throws a code. This could be a failing injector (the internal solenoid may be failing) a loose or intermittent connection, chafed wire partially shorting to ground, moisture or corrosion in a connector, etc. It's likely intermittent, but will eventually get worse. When it's happening it will throw the code and give the engine the wrong amount of fuel causing stalling, performance issues, no start, etc. If it were me I would visually inspect the Injector wiring for chafing, check inside the connectors, and if I didnt find anything just throw a new injector at it. You can also check resistance of the injector, but if it's intermittent it may check out ok when you happen to check it.