aefron88

Glad you got it apart. You can do a rough test by just making sure it's open between the two pins at room temp and closed at higher temp (which would turn the fan on) more than likely it has failed if the fan is running well. The fuse box is under the seat on all 400s. The 550s/750s etc it's under the hood. The Hisun produced how to videos mostly cover the 550 and 250 models, and there are a few changes.

They use the same EFI system controlled by the Delphi MT05 ECU. Mechanically they are all similar, I would be surprised if your unit will not spit out error codes like the rest of them. Go ahead and give us more details of exactly whats happening and maybe we can point you in the right direction.

Yes

Yes sorry that's how you're supposed to check it. The point I was trying to make is people recommend you run the oil higher than the dipstick suggests. Checkout the documents on "Motorcycle Doctor" for more details. Not sure on the coolant drain as I haven't found a need to drain mine yet. I would steer clear of radiator drain plugs in general, as every time I've used one on a car it never seems to seal back up right. Personally I would just pull the lower hose. As far as the oil cooler, normally I wouldn't bother, but if the oil is all gunked up with friction material it's probably worth unhooking the hoses and blowing it back with low pressure compressed air. Another random thought, you might check the valve lash, especially on the exhaust as it may be sitting partway open, and the way the cylinder is tilted that valve stem seems to have oil puddled on it when sitting. I wonder of that might help leak oil into the cylinder? Its also entirely possible you have a stuck ring due to carbon, maybe a dry & wet compression test to see where you're at.

1. Yep they're known for this, the plow mentioned won't help with keeping the wet clutch plates alive. 2. I would check the compression and go from there. I haven't heard of a lot of ring failures. There are complete head assemblies as well as cylinders available for very reasonable prices. The recomendation is to go high on the oil. Motorcycle doctor sells an extended dipstick and tube for all models except the 400. The claim is that Hisun changed the dipstick shorter somewhere along the way and more oil helps prolong wet clutch life. 2.5. Every wet clutch motorcycle/atv/sxs I'm aware of shares engine and transmission oil. Make sure you use MA2 wet clutch oil. 3. Toe is the only adjustment unless you want to do the old shade tree method of bending parts to adjust caster and camber. I doubt most power sports shops have alignment tools anyway. 4. Not sure off the top of my head. There are user & service manuals available in the "downloads" section. The user manuals describe the clock adjustments. I think I covered most of your questions.

Just digging around on the machine since I haven't seen the sensor before I believe it is on the drivers side just above the coolant hose, on the rear of the radiator. It has a rubber cover zip tied over it. Hopefully your hands are smaller than mine 😂 it doesn't look all that fun to get to.

I've seen a number of requests for the location of all the grease points on these machines, and there is no definitive list in the manual. This covers the UT400, but other Coleman/Hisun models should be similar. Tools: First to grease your machine you need a grease gun and some NLGI#2 grease. You will find it helpful to buy a needle attachment as pictured here, due to poor clearance on some of the U-joints. The rest of the zerks use the standard attachment. Technique: Wipe any dirt/grease off the zerk before greasing to prevent pushing gunk inside and causing excess wear. Push the grease gun on the zerk at a straight angle and give it a few pumps. You will hear an oozing noise or sea grease coming out from the outside of the greased area when you've put enough grease in, a few pumps should be plenty. If it's just oozing around the zerk you either don't have a good seat with the gun, or the zerk may be rusted and the check ball frozen. Try seating it again and regrease. Wipe up any excess grease when youre done to prevent making a mess. Greasepoints: Rear A-Arms are greasable with the wheels on from the rear, I took the picture with the wheel off for easier visibility That's it. All other Hisuns should be substantially similar.

I assume you looked thru all the 500 manuals in the download section and theyre all for the carbed version? It should be substantially similar to the 550 model, all the EFI, and mechanical is essentially the same AFAIK just a slightly different size piston, infact all the Hisun models are very mechanically simila, with differences in bodies, accessories, and minor driveline changes due to spacing requirements. Do you have anything in particular you need help with?

Does the bearing look like it physically failed? If it's intermittently failing it could cause drivability issues. I haven't experienced it myself so I can't comment on exact symptoms. The failures I've read about it seems to start locking/unlocking at random and making a grinding noise before it shortly catastrophically fails. Motorcycle Dr recommends cutting the spring shorter on the factory one way bearing to give it more spring pressure, if you dig around on their website you can find the pdf. Yes you can ditch the one way bearing if you want.

Service manuals are in the download section of this website. Parts are available, worst case you could just jump it out so the fan stays on when the key is on.

Rey, here is the relevant section from the service manual. I skipped the ignition switch and battery parts since we know it runs. If I had to place a bet I would bet on the thermal switch on the rad being disconnected or failed.

Not sure the exact year for cutoff on engine designs, i think the only major change is going from cabed to EFI. Not aware of any short blocks available. Unfortunately might be better off looking at a new SxS.

Before you tear it apart...they have history of trapping air in the lines. I would go ahead and fill the radiator and run it. There's a bleeder port on the driver side of the engine where the coolant hose goes in. Crack the little plug on the fitting to bleed the air while running. Once it's all bled fill it up to the top again. Once you bleed the air out let us know if it's still burning coolant and we'll go from there.

It's not abnormal. The winch uses a lot of power, the charging light indicates battery voltage is low to tell you the battery isn't charging at that moment. I'm not sure what voltage the light turns on at, but typically you should have 12.5-12.8V not running, and if the charging circuit is running right 14-15V. Below that the light will come on. As you use a lot of power the voltage will drop, triggering the light. You may find your battery is near the end of its life cycle. If you don't run the machine at least weekly I highly recommend a battery tender to get a reasonable life out of the battery, and make sure it starts when you need it. All of my infrequently used "toys" have battery tenders.

I have never seen a complete hisun engine sold aside from a few random one off sales on ebay. Did you get a look and determine its dead? What exactly is wrong with it? There are certainly parts available depending on the exact issue. It you want to swap it anyway I would go ahead and remove it and try to figure out exactly what failed first.

Marcus, Glad you got it back running. For future people reading this thread: Spark plug is on the back of the engine under the bed on all the newer hisuns. The cylinder faces backwards with the plug at the top. Older carb models it's on the fwd side of the engine.

Just to be clear for future readers, when you said EPS you meant EFI correct? I was trying to trouble shoot a power steering issue since you said EPS, not sure if the 500 even has that...

It may or may not have damaged the valves. Either way it's a fairly large project to replace. Not sure on the 500, but complete assembled heads for these things are not crazy expensive (a couple hundred $) so for then right price if you're willing to put the time and labor in it could be a good deal.

Good to know, hopefully that will help someone with the same symptoms in the future. If you've got more issues or questions feel free to create a new post and we can try to help you thru any other issues.

Looks good. Can you provide any details on construction? Materials, dimensions, tips, etc for people who might want to do similar. (You can also post pics directly to the post by clicking the photo button and uploading)

I'm not familiar with the EPS but I wonder if it blew a fuse that it shares with something else. These things only have 5 fuses and some are shared between different circuits. First thing I would do is open the fuse box and check all the fuses.

Looks like you got your issue figured out. There's no u-joint in the rear driveline of the 500? My 400 has a u-joint you can remove the pop the whole shaft out without having to dissasemble half the rear end. And yeah may as well do the valve lash while you've got everything out of the way.

Sounds like you need to crawl under and take a look and see what's broken, where its leaking, etc. Unfortunately we can not do that for you over the internet. Post a picture of where the oil is leaking from and we can help identify the issue.

You say cranking but won't turn over? Do you mean it won't fire, or it won't crank? First check your battery voltage is about 12.5V, make sure you have fuel in the tank. From there you can check for spark the spark plug is on the back of the motor under the bed. Connect an inline spark tester and make sure you have spark when cranking. Then I would remove the fuel injector and verify fuel pulses when cranking. If all that's good I would check the valve lash & timing.

Definitely seems to have quieted the exhaust noise, if not so effective in the cab itself. Be interesting to see what you get with the sound deadening.