aefron88

I would steer clear of a belt driven machine for heavy towing and steep hills. Under load the belts can start to slip, and once they start you will burn em up fast. These things are really meant to tow light loads, if any. Skidding smaller logs with a log arch might be doable on flattish terrain. If it's actually 45 degrees you aren't likely to find a vehicle that's safe to operate on it. Coleman/Axis are both rebadged Hisuns. Massimo is the other major Chinese brand. When looking at Massimo be aware that the numbers don't always correspond with the motor CCs like they do with most other brands, for example a T-Boss 410 is 352 CCs. Tracker is made by Textron/Arctic Cat. What's the issue with the Kawi?

It would depend on what the size of stuff you want to carry, conditions, UTV size, etc. There are the little metal tow behind 10 cubic ft dump trailers with a pin hitch available from a number of places for around $100-200. These are for intended for low speed offroad use. There are some bigger offroad style trailers in the $300-800 range depending on how fancy you want to get. These typically still have the pin hitch, some include nice features for off grade work, such as articulated axles. These still aren't meant for higher speeds or on road use. You mentioned some larger stuff so another option would be buying a small kit trailer from Harbor Freight or Northern Tool. They're usually more like $250-500 and require you to supply a piece of plywood for decking. They usually have an automotive style hitch so they won't handle too much angle difference between the towing vehicle and the trailer if you're "offroading". They also tend to be wider than most UTVs so you will have to be careful that they fit on the trails you want to use. They are however able to be titled in most states, and are legal for road use. The best bet is to look at exactly what you want to carry, and conditions, path width, etc and start looking at trailers from there. Northern Tool caries a good selection of all three styles mentioned above with various features. Harbor Freight has the first and third styles mentioned also.

Yep that's the starter relay. Just to confirm you checked all the fuses in the fusebox under the seat? Once you confirm those are good, do you have a way to charge the battery or jump start it using a car battery? If all the fuses are ok the battery may be shot, even if it shows good voltage. My thought process is it's very possible there's an issue with the charging circuit and your battery may not have been charging while the engine was running, but we can cross that bridge once we get it running again.

I don't think pulling the driveshaft back together is going to fix anything, more than likely the splines on the engine end of the shaft are toast, which will require replacement of the shaft. This is likely going to require two trips by the mobile tech, one to remove and a second once the new shaft arrives. I would just go ahead and remove it, and see what you see, and go from there as far as warranty, and repair options based in what you see.

Well that sounds like an entirely different issue if it died well running. Have you checked the fuses inside the fuse box as well as the inline fuse on the battery cable?

One thing you can do is swap to snowmobile trailer tires, which are wider and will float over soft spots better. That's the setup I have on my sailboat trailer. I have two Boston whalers also (a 15 classic and V-20 Revenge), but those both get launched on concrete ramps.

Greg's post is exactly right on the technical details. Unfortunately there aren't different springs and weights available off the shelf for these models so you would have to experiment. There are people with expertise adjusting belt drive clutches, primarily in snowmobiles, who may be able to male a good guess on what you need and identify compatable parts. Unfortunately these belt driven vehicles don't do a good job towing heavy weights, because they're always subject to slipping, and ontop of that a lot of people report wear issues with Hisun wet clutches anyway.

Sounds like you have a lot of issues with your UTV. If you can return it for a refund that may be the best bet. If you want let me know and I'm happy to help you further troubleshoot. My first impression of the no start video is either a bad battery or loose connection, based on the fact it tried to start and seems to lose voltage as it tries to crank. Batteries can show 12+V and still not put out the cranking power needed to run the starter.

Basically replacing the clutches with something non standard, or putting smaller tires, so more or less not practical to change gearing. Keep in mind these things just don't make a lot of HP and the trailer might be too much to haul around. I would expect it will effect the clutch life significantly towing the trailer around.

Someone who has experience with both can better answer your question as to which is better. Both likely have more QC issues than the major brands, and worse dealer support. A foot of wet snow will likely mean a short life for the wet clutch/belt on any belt driven machine. If you plan on using a UTV for plowing I would recommend doing multiple runs during the storm if you're expecting a lot. As far as Hisun I haven't had any major issues yet, parts seem to be widely available, service manuals are available, and for the most part they're pretty simple to work on. If you get the cable, and HudECU hacker software (free) it can make troubleshooting sensor issues much easier.

I would keep an eye on it, but at this point you can't really tell if it's not working. There are 6 bars, and almost 8 gallons so it should be something like 1.3 gal/bar assuming the gauge is linear. Most gas gauges tend not to be, in my experience, at least in cars. I have not tried to check the accuracy of my Hisun's gauge. For trail riding these things should get pretty decent gas mileage, I'm guessing around 20 MPG, so a full tank should be like 150 miles on that machine. Idling should burn <0.5 GPH. So you may not have burned much more than a gallon anyway. Post an update when you burn some more and let us know if it's still having issues.

KGS just to be clear, since the question is about the speed limiter relay: The max speed is controlled by the gear ratio of the belt on the primary/secondary clutches. The max engine rpm is controlled by the Delphi MT05 ECU. It is technically adjustable, but it is set to be a safe limit to prevent blowing up the motor. The speed limiter relay kicks on when the shifter is in reverse to limit the max speed. This is an add on by Hisun because there is no gear input for the Delphi ECU, which is designed to be a flexible, cheap fuel injection solution for a variety of small engines.

The speed limiter box only limit speed while running in reverse to prevent cutting the wheel over at high speed and rolling your utv. I'm not familiar with the 500, but you should be able to do slightly faster than that. I've had my 400 up to 35 (indicated) and it wasn't quite at redline yet.

It's showing 100% full in the picture. All those white bars indicate fuel also, as it drops the white bars will go away until only the red remains. When it is almost empty the red will blink.

It shouldn't void warranty under moss-magnusson act to do your own work. Yes it sucks, but unfortunately a lot of the shops that are willing to work on these things under warranty are pretty fly-by-night and probably don't do a good job of chasing down the manufacturer reps for parts and reimbursement. That along with hisun not seeming to be particularly proactive either you end up with horror stories of machines sitting in shops for months or years waiting on parts. Yes it sucks, but luckily in this case it should be pretty quick and straight forward to complete the repair. I believe on motorcycle doctor there is a pdf of shop book hours for various repairs. Maybe you could submit a claim for labor @ X book hours for the fix and see what happens?

Can you post a picture of what the gauge shows, and let us know what level you think you're at?

But I thought the issue was that it's reading full when you don't think the tank is full? Or have you gone thru a tank without it changing? If that's the case I would still pull the sender and play with the float and see if the gauge changes as you move the float. It's also possible the float is stuck at full for some reason.

EP grease on the splines none on the tip

If the service tech thing doesnt't come through, the ujoint isnt that bad to remove. If you dont have a pair of snap ring plyers you'll need those. I have not removed a ujoint on one of these yet, but from what i've been told they come apart really easy, no press needed. The other option may be to remove the driveshaft where it bolts to the rear axle pinion flange. I dont have the same model so not sure if thats feasable based on spacing on your unit. Once the shaft is out you can confirm, but likely you will need a new driveshaft. The ones ive seen the engine output shaft seems to stasy intact, and just strip the splines on the driveshaft.

46 is the rubber cover to the driveshaft splines. theres another post right below this you you likely have the same issue, the splines on the driveshaft stripped out. I've seen a couple other similar older posts with the same issue. Pull the driveshaft and see how the splines look.

I second what Travis & Tapboss posted. Almost guaranteed to be a scam.

Yep that's what I figured was wrong in my earlier post. Heat the outside with a torch and spray it with some penetrating oil as it cools, after a couple cycles it should pop off. Worst case you might need to wedge a puller in there.

I Wouldn't sweat it too much unless it comes back on the 2nd oil change. These things are assembled overseas and shipped, it can take many months for them to make it from the factory to your door. They're subject to moisture, vibration, dust, etc during transit. Also, every new engine's first oil change has a mishmash of nasty stuff it it, sand from casting, various types of metal dust from machining and assembly, sealants, locktite, assembly lubes, antisantifreeze, It takes some break in time and multiple changes to flush app of that stuff out before an oil analysis would show anything useful.

Did you by chance install the one way bearing backwards?

Any water in your oil will turn it chocolate milky. It doesnt take much to turn it. after a couple % water dilution the rest of the water will settle to the bottom of the oil pan, and refuse to mix with the oil at all. If you dont have chocolate milky looking oil there is very little if any water in it. If you are truly concerned about the oil the cheapest fix is to change it. They have recommended several grades of oil in these over the years, but cold it should be a 10 or 15 weight which is pretty thin. It will thicken when its warmer.