aefron88

First have you checked all the fuses are intact and the battery is charged?

you should hear the fuel pump coming on when you turn the key to the "on" position (stop before you get to start). listen for a light humming noise that should go away after 5 seconds. i'm not sure the pinout orientation, but yes the orientation of a relay matters. there is a wiring diagram in the downloads for the 400 which should be the same as far as EFI stuff. You can bench test the relay with a multimeter and some aligator clips and a 9v battery if you can find the pinout. Are the f4 and f5 fuses good? Do you hear the fuel pump running?

I have a post over on the coleman forum explaining how to get the Delphi code scanner working for around $25 in cabling, and free software.

So you said you have spark, new fuel, fuel pulsing from the injector. What did you get for compression? This will confirm the valves are ok, rings are in decent shape, etc. You could also spray some carb cleaner, a small amount of fuel, etc down the spark plug hole, put the plug back and try to start it. If it starts briefly and dies that would point to a fuel issue. Once you confirm compression I second checking the timing chain based on the symptoms. Yes the crank position sensor will set the spark timing, but it has no way of telling the valves are in the right position. I have read of a fair number of timing chain tensioner issues, even on relatively low hour engines.

Like a car stereo? Most people run small Bluetooth soundbars from what I've seen, although it might be hard to hear over the engine when driving. You could find a spot for a car stereo. But you would also need to find space for speakers, which would be tough.

The is always one other option...😂

Other than that all I see are the motorcycle Dr ones. You could also try hisun or coleman but it would likely be more than $20 shipped and a lot slower.

Is this the right part? $10.99 w/ free shipping

The first thing i would do is reset the ECU and see if that fixes it. Start the engine, run it up to redline in neutral (it has a rev limiter and wont over rev) Hold it there for 5 seconds, and turn the ignition off, with the gas pedal still down. Wait 15 seconts, release the pedal and restart as normal. See if it idles properly after that, and starts ok in colder weather. LMK after you've done that if it fixes it, or you still have issues and I can walk you thru further troubleshooting.

So you are getting power to all the fuses (12.3v between the fuse and the neg batt terminal)?

Ok so just to recap since yours isn't the original post: You shut it off and it made an "air escaping or winding noise" and now it wont display anything or start correct? Lights don't work with the key on? I'm trying to figure out what the noise might have been but blanking on anything. Have you checked the battery voltage? Should be at least 11.8V. From there I would open the fusebox (little black box with 4 screws holding the cover) check that all the fuses are getting the same as the batt voltage (check between the fuse terminal and the neg batt terminal). Then check that all fuses are intact and not blown.

Sounds like you have a pretty large short. I'm not familiar with that model so this will be real general: I would hook a voltmeter to the batt and start removing fuses and replacing one at a time. That should help to track down the short circuit. When the vtage pops back to "disconnected batyery voltage" you have figured out which circuit the short is on. Once you figure out which circuit it's on you can go from there. I would recommend using an ammeter in series, but if the draw is dragging the batt down to 11v instantly it's probably well in excess of the 10 amps most meters can handle. Any chance the manual has an electrical diagram in it?

Its very possible there was a slight imperfection causing the issue too. Orings are very sensitive to leaking if nicked or if it just doesnt sit right. Or could be a slight imperfection in the old bolt that caused it to sit just a little off. Fingers crossed and let us know how it looks in october.

It's unlikely that the teflon tape did anything useful. Teflon tape doesnt seal, and almost every pipe dope sold dosent seal either (there are a few specialty exceptions). The concept of teflon tape is that it allows the threads to slide more easily. It is only needed in a tapered fitting. In a tapered fitting, such as NPT the further you thread the fittings together, the tighter the seal. This is why you use teflon/dope on say piping in your house. The drain plug bolt, in this case, is a straight thread so tightening further doesnt cause the threads to seal any tighter. This is why the o-ring is there in the first place. The o-ring is the only thing that really seals, as oil can seep right past the threads, it will seep past the teflon too.

Steve, I dont believe cliffy is around posting much anymore as I believe he sold his SxS due to health issues. Does your HS400 smoke under specific conditions? heavy load, startup, etc? or just totally random? If its sometimes on startup you may have a dripping fuel injector. If its more random I would lean towards the sticking ring theory. If you think it might be a sticking ring due to sludge/carbon I have had good luck on an older automotive engine using a product called Kreen. Its made by the makers of Kroil, and you can only order it off their website. Anyway the trick is to put about an ounce down the spark plug hole and let it sit for a day or so. It will slowly drip past the rings and clean out carbon & sludge as it goes. Once the day is up crank the motor over with the plug out to get any remaining liquid out, and then reinstall and start it up. You want to do an oil change afterwards as it is a pretty strong commercial solvent. Might be worth trying before doing a whole top end teardown anyway.

I believe the HF ones come with a plug that matches their winches so yo would have to disassemble it and figure out which wire was which to make it work. There are a dozen plus sub $20 choices on amazon that come bare wire that would be easier. No disassembly, and the wires come labeled as to function. If you grab a set of crimp "bullet connectors" and a crimping tool you can install it and still be able to switch back to the factory setup by reconnecting the old wires for the plug in a couple minutes.

I don't think cliffyk posts here anymore due to gthing rid of his HS400 after some medical issues. I don't see that particular remote available, but looking on amazon there are tons of other similar ones available in the $20 range. Hooking it up you will need to be able to splice some wires or crimp some terminals. The winch control relay is under the front hood towards the top middle. It's a little square box with wires going onto the terminals. The remote winch controller needs power and a ground, as well as a connection for in and out. you should be able to disconnect the wires in the back of the socket under the dash and connect there. See diagram below. You will need to connect the ground wire on the new controller to a solid chassis ground.

I'm not specifically familiar with the 250's however... Likely if there's oil in the air box the oil level in the engine is way too high. Check the dipstick and see where it's at. If it is that high it's probably worth replacing the spark plug and cleaning the air filter as both will likely have gotten oil on them and may be causing further iissues.you may find oil weeping out other spots too. I believe I have read that the "newer" 250's have a safety governor that isn't disableable as they're primarily marketed towards kids, so that may be the 25mph limit. Not sure exactly what year that started.

Oh I'm well familiar with chasing a wandering Golden. One minute mine is there and the next minute I look up and he's off in the woods on an adventure trying to give dad a heart attack... As far as oil level, motorcycle doctor claims up to the top of the threads on the dipstick. They have an extension available on ebay for most hisun engines (I can't find it on their website?) That screws into the threads and has a new dipstick to let you easily add more without making a mess. In this case more is more until you start dipping the piston rod and churning everything up too much. I don't see a reason to grease the one way it should be bathed in oil algith everything in the wet clutch assy. I have read on other atvs where people just remove and toss the one way bearing, so that may be a possible option? Supposedly it just reduces engine breaking, but should still work ok. Don't quote me on that. Like I said I haven't dug into the clutch on one of these yet so I'm only going based on what I've read in forums and the service manual.

I'm not an expert on the clutch and oneway bearing however i have read of some failures. I wonder if the new one was faulty right out of the box? I believe the whole point is to allow the driveline to go faster than the engine without spinning the engine faster. Do you do a lot of engine coasting down hills in low range? There is also this in the knowledge section of motorcycle doctor's website about the spring being too loose on hisun one way bearings, causing premature failures. Hopefully someone with more experience with clutches on these things can jump in and give you more information.

Not sure on that one. My UT400 has a copper crush washer on the bolt rather than an O-ring. Can you try putting just the o-ring (no bolt) in the groove and see how much it sticks up past the face. IIRC orings are supposed to compress 30-40% for proper sealing. So it should stick 30%-40% of its thickness past the face. If it doesn't you could try a thicker o-ring with the same diameter. They are sold in diameter as well as material thickness so you should be able to measure and order one. Keep in mind it is probably metric. Grainger is a good place to buy random weird size metric o-rings in my experience. Edit: had one other random thought. I had a plug on my oil tanker that was a perpetual leader. It was gaskets internally. Anyway long story short after much frustration the issue was the hole was not tapped perpendicular with the deck it was going thru causing it to never seal tightly on both sides. I wonder if your drain plug is tapped slightly crooked causing it to not seal on one side when the other side is tight?

If you're talking about the spot where the arrow is pointing in my picture, I believe it is the weep port for the water pump. If it's actively leaking you probably need a new water pump. If it's just dripping occasionally you're probably ok. You can see some drops of coolant in it in my pic, but it's not actively dripping.

Something like that will work i you can find the right size plug. They are litterally just a matching plug with a wire that runs between the two terminal also. You could do the same thing with a straightened paperclip and some electrical tape if you want. The plug is under where the seat belt female part is, you can see the wires running down into the seat gap. Flip up the bed and follow the wires coming down from it.

I'm not familiar with that model, but typically the keyswitch connects to the ECU so switching it off shuts off power to the ECU which kills the spark. Some older small engine type stuff (stuff without a computer) it physically grounds the spark plug wire. Energy prefers the direct path to ground without having to jump the spark gap and the engine dies. This is still how lawnmowers, chainsaws, weed whackers, etc work today.

Steveo, This is a UTV forum so I'm not familiar with the ATVs, but it seems to be. PZ19 CARB. They seem to be widely available small Chinese CV style carbs. You could try a larger main jet and see what happens. They seem to only run $20-30 anyway. If you google "pz19 jets" you can get a full set of different sizes for around $10. There are also some other performance kits that seem to be available. As far as a starter (I think thats what you're asking?) I don't see one available in the parts diagrams.