Greg Kilgore

I hate to hear that for you. The mobile techs are very busy. Not defending him or anything. But since Hisun has no service centers. They have to outsource getting their junk fixed. At least he is getting parts. I had a issue with the rear drive shaft. I requested a mobile tech. Got tired of waiting on the techs call back. I got the parts off Amazon and fixed it myself. When the tech finally did call. He just wanted the SN off the machine. Told him the SN. Then told him to just send parts and I'd fix it myself. He did send all parts I asked for. So I have a replacement parts / driveshaft if needed. Depends on where in WV you are. There's one shop around Princeton ( I think). But he is was booked with a backlog of about 4 months. That is a 4hr 1 way trip for me. That's the reason I just did the head myself. I'm 1.5 hours west and south of Charleston, WV in KY. Wish you the best of luck. Keep us updated.

Tear down https://youtu.be/iduW-UK3mkM?si=ncYq-u6XIte6rCdk Inspection of cam https://youtu.be/WZsPsBeyWXc?si=bn6TJAWhut0gB4pL Back together https://youtu.be/7846kqPLSZU?si=F2vSO_0qhQlyO0QH Hisun video. Junk video. Reason i call it junk is i could not find the torque specs they talk about for the head anywhere. Even the "Techs" at the Texas HQ had different responses than this video. https://youtu.be/CNtlgnximsU?si=Mo1yoVWQAJ2IbmXs This guy from Limitless Powersports is a good guy. He gives his email address in these videos somewhere. Any way I emailed him and got a reply. (HISUN didn't reply to 2 emails. Called and was more confused when call ended) Kilgore

Here is the diagrams I used and I watched a couple of YT videos. The ones from the Hisun/Axis were junk. I will list the ones I watched in another post. Any links have to be approved by the admin. So it may take a minute before that post is up. The numbers in the boxes with Nm after them is the torque specs. But I think I tighten the head bolts to 40Nm instead of the 38Nm listed. I reused all old fasteners.

Here are some pic of the timing marks That was the absolutely hardest part I put that bad boy together I'm guessing 100 times before I was satisfied. But in the end it paid off cause it was running after the 2nd turning over of engine. The top pic was 99% complete. There's 2 stamped metal covers or something like that. That wasn't installed when I took the pic. They cover the timing marks on the top gear. And I wanted to rotate the engine a few times. That way I knew timing marks were correct. I installed before buttoning it all back up.

FireZingr, Yours will be different but for the 500 see below. Well something about the engine I had. I couldn't get the $90 jug kit. I had to get the $350.00 ish kit from MotorCycleDoctor. But they shipped fast. All parts. Really recommend them. Wasn't a real hard job. Took me a day to tear down. A day to put back together. And 3 hrs to get timing chain back on and in time. One reason it took so long was I lost a "C" clip on the piston wrist pin. Thought it dropped inside the engine. Looked for that thing for about 4 hours. Turns out it was under driver's seat. Also on old piston about 1/3 rd of the piston ring lip was broken. Didn't drop inside engine, just broken. Took off a few more items than I needed to. But it was all good. Got everything thing back together. Gave it a real good burping and old change. Even changed the fuel injector cause it gave me issues before the head blew. Even replaced the spark plug. Reset the computer by the key switch on off cycling. Think it cranked twice and fired up. Hasn't given any issues with engine since. Have put about 800 miles on it since the repair. I did coat the head gasket with Indian Head and refused the big O ring off the old jug. Rest were all new. New jug, piston, wrist pin, gaskets, etc. Old piston. Old gasket. You can see the big O-Ring in this pic that I reused. It's on the outside of the cylinder ("sleeve?"). It's black and is under the gasket. If you look when the gasket meets the outside of the sleeve. You can see it if you look hard enough. New parts. Even came with new spark plug and crush gasket for exhaust. You can see the old O-Ring I reused under the new spark plug. back together.

My bad completely misread the post. I have no clue what the issue could be. Only think I can suggest is try rocking forward and backward while trying to shift. But definitely looks like something is in a bind.

On my 500 there is a cable from the break to shifter. You have to have the break pedal pressed to shift out of neutral. Maybe there is something wrong with that cable. Just a thought.

When a new clutch it is supposed to be soaked in the correct oil for 24 hours. So maybe changing to the correct oil and a few oil changes will prolong the life of the clutch. But I will probably need to be changed in the near future. When changing the oil. Disconnect the hose at the top of the radiator that goes into the oil cooler. Do not use an air compressor. Just use your lungs and blow the oil out of the cooler back into the engine. Then hook up the hose back to the tube and unhook from cooler. To blow the oil out of the tube. You'll get most of the bad oil out that way. If you do use an air compressor be careful and remember I told you not to use the air compressor. Good luck.

Removed to avoid confusion.

https://www.utvboard.com/topic/56171-2020-axis-500-only-getting-reverse-and-neutral/

I found the post I was referring to. It on a 2020 Axis that only had reverse and neutral. The title is 2020-axis-500-only-getting-reverse-and-neutral I'll post a direct link under this reply. This system has to verify a link isn't posted with ill intent. And has to be verified. And I know you want a quick solution. So you can search for the above post title or wait for my link to be approved. It's up to you

There was another post on here. It was a shift problem that turned out to be the fan shifter issue like you are talking about. I don't think that poster put any grease on the fan fingers where they interlock with the gear. Look for that post. There is also a video that he references. It may be in the Axis or hisun or Coleman sub category. I can remember. But I think there is an oil passage there. Sorry I couldn't give any more help. If you can find that post.aybe you can reach out to that member and see how his solution is working for him. It was maybe a year ago when the post was made

I had this problem after sitting for a while cause of a blown head gasket. I fixed the head. Then tackled the no start issue. Turned out to be bad connection at battery leads. Also in the battery compartment is the main fuse. Check all connections while your in there. Yes now got over 200 miles on the new head gasket and jug. Hope for the best. Let us know. We will figure this out

I installed a universal cabin heater. Didn't bleed air out of system at the top of gooseneck by the cylinder head.

I have purchased the sending unit, low pressure gauge,T and fittings. To install the sending unit in the line on top of the oil cooler. Just haven't gotten around to it yet. I blew the head gasket and just waiting on the mood to hit to fix that.