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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/19/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    I know it's very late to reply but I still want to share my experience here,maybe it will be helpful to others. What I have is 2012 kubota rtv 900 and one of front cv joint axle (Driver side)was worn out. So I went to the kubota dealer, they told me the front cv joint axles of 2009-2014 RTV 900 4x4 are the same and wanted to charge me $200 for a new one. I think it's very expensive so google cv axle replacement cost online when I got home. What I found it's between $50-$70 for a new kubota rtv 900 cv axle replacement, for example,Hex Auto Parts has kubota rtv front axle for sale ,only $60 free shipping. Much cheaper and save me a couple hundred dollars. Finally I got my axle for my 2012 kubota rtv 900 and install by myself in two hours. Now I am waiting for spring and really want to ride my rtv 900 when the weather warms up.
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  3. 1 point
    This is my thought on it: Never needs oil may mean that the clearances are loose and it burns oil. Since there's no oil filter, all you have to do is check the oil level and add as necessary.
  4. 1 point
    I will say it's clever marketing. Attracts the people who are too poor to pay for lawn care and too lazy to perform maintenance..
  5. 1 point
    I've heard that also. But I've never heard any facts to back it up. Common sense would say that lubrication is pretty straightforward. I can't believe that the metallurgy would be changed by one kind of oil over another. So wouldn't the new oil, of whichever variety, just mix with the few remaining drops of old oil? What could possibly be so complicated? You had yours completely apart; did you see anything inside that looked delicate?
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    Welcome to the forum Bchickness! Sorry , I can't really help since I live in mostly wooded, flat terrain, I don't even use the provided belts on mine. But I am interested in why exactly, someone would need a four point harness, in something that doesn't move all that fast? Mountain trails maybe? If so, then we're gonna have to ask for pictures. East Texas terrain is a little boring in that way. Mud, or swamp, is the most exciting thing I'm likely to encounter. Otherwise it's an exciting 7mph. all the way. In answer to your question though, I'd think that the rock crawling crowd would know. Personally, if I thought that I needed that much safety, I'd want a racing seat, with hard doors, and a net.
  8. 1 point
    Hi, you might try looking here. http://www.armstronglifts.net/products/pedalmates.htm
  9. 1 point
    There's several products for rust removal. There's also products to put a coating inside the tank. I would think that between the two, you could get satisfactory results, with a semi permanent fix as well.
  10. 1 point
    I put my new fuel pump on it, and cleaned and blew out the filter both ways, i didnt take it for a drive since i didnt have time, but it idled a whole let better.
  11. 1 point
    Have you tried blowing out the line from the carb end, to the tank?
  12. 1 point
    Sometimes people think they've cleaned, and /or rebuilt a carburetor, only to find out it didn't take. Those things have tiny little fuel passages that can easily be missed. That's why I suggest you let the fuel do the cleaning, using an additive. Sometimes that isn't possible, but I think it'll work here. Assuming that's the problem. If it's the tank, you could draw some gas through the line, into a glass jar. Look for impurities, also make sure there's good flow. Or it could be the gas cap vent. When the engine is having issues, quickly pop the cap, look for immediate improvement. Verify by driving it awhile with a rag or something stuck in there. No problems, then replace the cap. See what happens, then repeat till you know for sure.
  13. 1 point
    I'd try backing it off a half turn at a time, drive it, see what happens. When the results turn negative, I'd see if I could improve it again using the other screw. See if I could get it to level out at what it used to be. But I can almost guarantee that thing wasn't bottomed out from the factory. So I'm hoping that loosening that lower screw will give a desired result. But a word of caution. When playing with this kind of thing, it's extremely important to be able to put it back, just like it was. So I'd carefully count the the turns to the bottom on both, then put it back. Then write it down. In my younger days, I've rendered a working machine, to non working, by not being prepared. Sometimes getting it running again can be a real pia. It doesn't have to be exact, but very close. But really, it seems like it almost has to be an adjustment. Although like I said, I know nothing about a governor.
  14. 1 point
    Probably is, that wouldn't be uncommon. Unless it gets a lot worse, I'd just drive it awhile, and adjust it after the break in.
  15. 1 point
    I ended up selling my 5x8 trailer and buying a 5.5’ x 10’ trailer and it is a perfect fit
  16. 1 point
    There's not much to most centrifugal clutches. I believe it's pretty straightforward. Of course I've only seen the little ones, so yours could be more involved. But usually on something like this, the real difficulty is in fighting the new springs back on. Since they're new, and stiff, it can be a real problem. Sometimes there's special tools, and/or techniques that'll help. But it sounds like the kit is the way to go. Might end up being easy.
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    Lol, my wife did this to the point that the brakes caught on fire. I had to replace the rear calipers. My solution was to remove wife from drivers seat. I haven't had any issues since!
  19. 1 point
    you still got the part number of the RS5000's you used?
  20. 1 point
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