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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/15/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Looking for ideas for custom mod ideas for my Trooper fleet.
  2. 1 point
    $3000+ for service on a new machine with 60 hrs on it? You're being taken for a ride for sure over very rough terrain. Maybe the lemon law applies here - it is a motor vehicle. I would demand a refund and explain that social media can be an excellent venue to let people know where to spend their money and where not to spend it.
  3. 1 point
    silverbullet i have some with out part numbers i will check.Is it it a rengade 4x4 Rich Send me email to [email protected] 1 have one aout 10'
  4. 1 point
    Just a follow-up note. I looked through the cross-reference oil filter list provided by Vaughn and the other provided by Travis and noticed that they both list the Kawasaki 49065-7010. I park my UTV in my garage and I park my Zero turn mower in the shed. I have not tried the filter on the UTV yet but the Kawasaki engine on my lawn mower uses the Kawasaki 49065-7010 and I have a new spare for the mower in the shed. If I had noticed this in the beginning (if I had these cross-reference listings), I more than likely would not have run into my problem. I will try the Kawasaki filter the next time I change the filter on the UTV and it will be my "go to" filter for both machines.
  5. 1 point
    I don't see how you can swap the heads to get more power. The part numbers are not the same. Crankshaft part numbers are not the same, either. 13101-004-0000-KIT Piston Kit, HS UTV 400/500 13101-007-0000-KIT Piston Kit, HS UTV 700
  6. 1 point
    Do be offended if I state something you already know. I'm just covering all bases. This is how I bleed my brakes on my van and car. My Renegade has three master cylinders (one for the clutch and two for the brakes - I believe that's how they're configured). If you're doing it solo, 1. Place a small glass jar at the wheel furthest from the master cylinders (usually the right rear). and fill the jar with about 1" brake fluid 2. Connect a hose from the bleeder valve to the jar. Make sure the end of the hose is submerged and fits snugly over the bleeder valve. This will be your airlock. 3. Fill the master cylinders with brake fluid. 4. Open the bleeder valve at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder (usually the right rear) 5. Pump the brake pedal slowly about 3 times. Important: Make sure the hoses stay submerged in brake fluid at each wheel and you don't let the fluid level in the master cylinder drop to the point of pumping air into the brake lines. You may find you can pump it more times before you have to refill the master cylinders. 6. Refill the master cylinders and/or the jar as needed. 7. Repeat steps 5 & 6 until you feel you've bled all the air out of that line. If you have a helper, they can watch for air bubbles in the jar to cease. 8. Close the bleeder valve at that wheel. 7. Move to the next wheel (left rear) and repeat steps 3-7. Then repeat for the right front, then the left front. There are several websites that tell you how to bleed brakes. I would suggest you take a look at them for pointers. They can be of help. You may have to bleed the master cylinders before you do the wheels.
  7. 1 point
    I’ve searched all over and haven’t been able figure out the maker and model of my buggy. It appears to be some kind of Joyner maybe an older model? Anyone know what this is? it appears to be 1000cc and it’s a 4 cylinder thx
  8. 1 point
    Looks like it would be a lot of fun to drive. But with those open wheels, I think you'll be wearing whatever you're driving through. You should also look for a stamped number on the frame. I'd think that it would be in the cockpit. Those numbers are hard to spot, since they're painted over. Good luck, and welcome to the forum.
  9. 1 point
    There's got to be a manufacturer plate on it somewhere. It'll have the vehicles info on it. I'd get it up in the air where I could inspect the bottom thoroughly. I'm assuming you've inspected all that's visible on the top side.
  10. 1 point
    Thx, this is the only number I can find and it’s on the tranny but doesn’t reveal anything in a search engine...
  11. 1 point
    Have you looked for any numbers on the engine? It looks very similar to the sandviper, but the 2 front metal bars are different than the viper. overall it's a good looking machine, and Welcome to the board!
  12. 1 point
    Thanks for the thoughts. The funny thing is, even running for a short time with the choke partially closed, the plugs really soot up. That tells me its getting more fuel than it can burn properly. And these $275-300 carbs aren't a common inventory part.
  13. 1 point
    Hello UTV enthusiasts, I am a student at Villanova University and am doing a market research project on UTVs. If people would mind filling out this survey, I would greatly appreciate it. https://villanova.az1.qualtrics.com/jfe/form/SV_8k17pLvfnFaLXz7 Thank you
  14. 1 point
    Some of the questions did not have choices that fit my situation. Example: Some mods are done to enhance utility, not safety, performance or appearance.
  15. 1 point
    Figure could get some more power from the bigger 700 piston
  16. 1 point
    Well I downloaded the install instructions for the doors and it is clear that the doors do not need the complete soft top to work on the FX PRO EPS LE. The windshield does make a difference because of hinge mounting and the mounting of the windshield support brackets. I am rolling the dice and ordered the door along with the other options for my new Mule. I will keep everyone posted on the outcome including pictures.
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