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Dan B

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Dan B last won the day on December 2

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About Dan B

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Location Surprise, AZ, United States

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • UTV Brand
    Own Joyner Renegade R2-1100cc
  • Interests
    Golf, aviation but had to give both up due to age related vision issues. Not bad enough to quit driving and off-reading.

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  1. I can only suggest you trace the wiring from the fuse to the blower motor and clutch. Could be an intermittent dead short to ground in the wiring or blower motor. Disconnect the blower motor to see if the fuse holds. If it does, the blower motor is suspect. Otherwise, the wiring. Do the same for the clutch just in case it is in the clutch.
  2. Now I understand your problem, I think. The ground wire is there and connected to the chassis but you can't determine where the lose end goes. The only thing I can offer is to look for a connector that is close by. It probably came from that connector. And that connector probably has one terminal that's missing a wire. Unused terminals usually, but not always, do not have a metal contact pin installed in the connector. Can you access the back of the display?
  3. There is a procedure to "burp" the cooling system. That's to say that you have to remove the air from the system. That air displaces coolant and can lead to overheating in that area where the coolant is blocked by the air. That may be why you can't get the full gallon into the cooling system. I don't know if the design of the cooling system on the RTV900 requires it, but my ride requires it as does many cars, trucks and off road vehicles. The basic procedure is to park the ride up hill (or jack up the front or back) so that the radiator is at the highest point. Fill the system including the reserve tank. Run the engine with the radiator cap off. Keep refilling as the air is purged until no more coolant can be added. Shouldn't take more than 30 minutes, probably much less on a small engine. Some systems are easier - just keep filling the radiator with the engine running, radiator cap off, until no more coolant can be added. https://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-bleed-air-from-your-cooling-system
  4. Let's presume the first character is missing from the VIN. If so, then the year model charactert 6 would become the 10th character and indicate that it is a 2006 or 2036 model year (not realistic). If we presume the last character is missing from the VIN, then the 1 to the right of the 6 would become the 10th character and indicate that it would be a 2001 or 2031 model year (not realistic). The letter O or the number 0 is never used to indicate the model year. So, lacking any further info, the letter A is the closest to any realistic model year character and that indicates that it might be a 2010 model year. (770) 532-0038 is their phone number in GA. I don't know if it is still active/current. But it would be worth a call to see if they can help.
  5. This site will decode your number: https://www.vindecoderz.com/EN/KUBOTA However, the numbers you provided don't contain the full 17 character format. Double check to see if there's another set of numbers on your machine.
  6. In Oregon, the ride you are considering is a Class IV ATV - commonly called a UTV or side x side. Oregon currently does not allow ATVs including UTVs to be street legal (any roadway that is maintained for regular vehicle traffic). Check with Oregon's Motor Vehicle Use Map (MVUM). It will tell you what roads are open for ATV/UTV use. You might consider 2 sets if tires for what you want to do. Mudding tires have an extremely aggressive tread design. You'll wear them out quickly if used on gravel or hard packed dirt roads. Trail tires are less aggressive. If you want to do some soft sand riding such as what they have in Glamis, sand paddles might become your 3rd set of tires.
  7. I don't believe Joyner "upgraded" their differentials. If they did, it wasn't well advertised. The upgrade was developed by a 3rd party. I think the upgrade was basically stronger ring gear bolts plus spacers. Kelly BB puts the value between $3k-$4k. But the value vs what someone is willing to pay are not the same.
  8. Go to Joyner-USA.com They have the owner's manual for your year model Commando. The manual has the wiring diagram. If you have trouble getting and downloading the manual, PM me and I'll download and send you a PDF copy. 650commandoC2_owners_manual2008(1).pdf
  9. Yes it does. Pre 2014 Joyner Renegades had the 3-cyl 800cc engine. Went to the 4-cyl engine 1100cc in 2014, same engine in the Trooper.. That engine is more common in South America, Africa and of course Asia. Larger engines (1600+) are more common in automobiles in those areas.
  10. The Coleman (US brand) is a Hisun (Chinese) in disguise. A few, but certainly not all Japanese and American brands use Chinese parts including the engine. One model of the Kawasaki and John Deere UTVs uses a Chinese engine. Never know what we're getting unless we do some deep, deep digging and researching.
  11. That's the problem with buying online. You're at the mercy of what the seller says. They are sales people, not mechanics. You can't take your used part and compare it to the so-called replacement part. Let me know how it works for you with Joyner USA. I ordered two rims and tires and will pick them up Fri (they're local to me - 35 mi). Jake said he has them in stock. He had two headlighs that I needed earlier this year. So far, I'm batting 1000 with him.
  12. This site advertizes that they have them: http://mpsracing.net/joyner-renegade-/973-joyner-trooper-1100-and-renegade-800-aftermarket-lower-ball-joint.html I can't vouch for them as I've never done any business with them.
  13. Not inexpensive if you want to buy one. Most need a 3-point hitch with a PTO. The lowest cost self-powered (they have their own engine) I found was $2000+++ depending upon engine size and cutting width and whether you want a rough cut or finish cut. At those prices, you can buy a riding mower. If you have the welding skills, there are a few YT videos where those in the same situation built their own tow behind mower for about $800 incl engine. Not many available on my local Craigslist.
  14. My theoretical analysis of incorrect valve gap. I wouldn't say a lot of power if one cylinder, but more pronounced if on all cylinders. A larger than normal gap will cause the intake valve to open late and close early. The compression will be a little lower (less fuel/air mixture gets into the cylinder on the intake stoke) and cause some loss of power. Does the engine othewise runs smooth (not missing)? Your compression should be near 130 psi at sea level (based upon 14.7 psi atmospheric pressure and a 9.5 compression ratio minus a few pounds due to other factors). A larger than normal gap on the exhaust valve will also cause it to open late and close early which, in turn, keeps more burned fuel in the cylinder on the exhaust stoke, prevernting a full charge of fresh fuel/air mixture from being fully injested into the cylinder on the intake stroke.
  15. I would still check the valve clearances (cam to lifter clearance). Can't really tell clearances by looking at the valves. Lacking any other info that might say otherwise, the intake is 0.18mm/0.007"±0.05mm/0.0019", exhaust 0.25mm/0.0098"±0.05mm/0.0019". Excessive clearances will cause the cam lobe to "slap" against the lifter causing the clicking/clacking noise.


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