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Dan B

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Dan B last won the day on December 2 2019

Dan B had the most liked content!

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About Dan B

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Location Surprise, AZ, United States

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • UTV Brand
    Own Joyner Renegade R2-1100cc
  • Interests
    Golf, aviation but had to give both up due to age related vision issues. Not bad enough to quit driving and off-reading.

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  1. Try to remove the skid plate the same way I did and replace the nuts with U-nuts. Mark the location of the drain hole before removing, of course. Drilled holes in my case seem to migrate from where I drilled them to stay. When I remove my skid plate for my next oil change, I'm going to drill a BIG hole so that it can't migrate too far. (:<))
  2. I have the the same problem with my bash/skid plate. I think they installed the skid plate, then installed the engine. They used nuts and bolts to install the skid plate. I could loosen the bolts but then the nuts started to turn = couldn't remove the skid plate under normal procedures. What I did is loosened the bolts, then inserted a thin pry bar between the skid plate and the chassis to bind the nut so that is couldn't turn. I was able to remove all the bolts. I replaced the nuts with metric U-nuts. They mount on ears attached to the chassis. The U-nuts won't turn. As for accessing the drain plug, I'm going to drill a large hole so as to access the drain plug. Roll cages need diagonal supports. There are other rides that have the same issue. I can't speak of the Trooper, but my oil filter is easily accessible via raising the bed. Your Trooper and my Renegade have the same engine now (as of 2014). I have a concern about oil pressure at idle. It's barely the limit of 10 psi at 1,000 RPM. The common standard is 10 psi per 1,000 RPM. I use 50 weigtht oil and that helps the idle oil pressure. Above idle the oil pressure is fine. I agree with the racing harness. Can't easily access the storage compartment under the passenger seat. Buckles too wide. I bought my ride used off Craigslist. The previous owner took out the 5-point harness and installed lap belts, too, I reinstalled the harness and haven't had problems with them coming loose at the attach points or the buckle, not yet. Working on the wiring is nearly impossible if I want to add electrical accessories. My ride has an OBDII connector but is isn't a standard protocol. My OBDII testers can't communicate with my machine. I like my ride. I don't have $20k, $30k, $40k for a fancy ride. It's more of a utility/farm vehicle and not so much a sport vehicle. It's just with Joyner, you may have to be your own mechanic as I've learned. As with most advertising for almost anything, they put flowery words promoting the advantages of their products and not mention any negatives.
  3. Difficult to troubloeshoot from a distance. The problem now is even if you found someone knowledgeable on your machine, the wiring mods the previous owner did will make it difficult to troubleshoot. And off-brand rides mean we have to be our own mechanics. Local support is rare. Sounds like the person you bought your ride from tried to bypasss the problem areas instead of fixing them. Has this ride been in deep water? Corrosion usually occurs at the connectors. Go through the whole machine and try to look for corrosion at the connectgors. Check the brake light switch on the brake pedal to see if it is out of adjustment or a broken wire. The winch control switch just pops out of the dash with a small flat blade screwdriver. See if the connector came undone. Also check the winch control relay. I'll presume the winch motor is okay. You might not be able to get a new fuse module, but I would try to clean the fuse connector as best as I could. I think that's where most of your issues will be. The brake light and horn should be on different fuses. I don't know where you got your wiring diagram, but Joyner-USA.com has manuals for your machine. I saw a post where the first 50 Troopers had a different signal flasher than the following units. I don't know if there were any mid-year changes that would make troubleshooting your machine difficult. http://joyner-usa.com/ may have the manuals you could use (free to download - pdf format)
  4. Must have been an internet problem. It's up today.
  5. Does anyone know if Joyner USA in Phoenix AZ is still in business. Can't get onto their website. The FB postings are over 1 year old. Doesn't seem like the owner is interested in keeping customers interested or updated in what's going on. Hasn't been at the Riverview address in a couple of years. Last I knew, he was on S 18 St. There's a website that says Joyner USA is at the 3700 block of E Roeser. Don't know at the moment if it is the same business. I bought a couple of wheels from him last year and I want to buy two more.
  6. A little bit of rambling on my part here. I'm only familair with my machine. There may be variations between model years. My speed is also 10 mph / 1000 rpm. I've never had my machine over 35 mph - too fast for this old goat and also too fast for the trails I ride. This engine is an over square engine. That is to say the bore is larger than the stroke. They are designed for higher RPMs. Myu speedo redlines at 75 mph - implies that the engine redlines at 7500 RPM. The Renegade uses gearing through the transmission and differentials to put more torque to the drive axles. The 800cc & 1100cc Renegades had a transmission with the part number: 5TO7D1 From the part numbers, it appears that the Trooper and Renegade both use the same transmission for the 800cc & 1100cc engine packages (Trooper 1100cc only). Mine won't start until the gauges complete their sweep. Then it starts right up without any accelerator or clutch input. Does your engine turn over with the clutch pedal released? If not, your model year might have a safety switch with the clutch to prevent starting without the clutch being depressed.
  7. Probably design variations and software changes over the years. Your new R4 (presuming it's 2014 or later) has the 1100cc engine with a different computer than your 2012. On my 2014, both tach & speedo sweep and will start as long as the transmission is in neutral. As long as your tach and speedo work normally while driving, I don't think I'd worry too much about it.
  8. I don't know if you've resolved your issue with the gauges since it's been a while. Do the lights work on the gauges? With the engine off, is the oil pressure warning light and battery light illuminated? When I turn on the ignition without startingt the engine, those two lights come on, gauge lights illuminate and the speedometer & tackometer cycles. This applies to the Trooper and Renegade. I can't address other Joyner products. On my machine, all of the guages are powered by a 12vdc supply through a 7.5amp fuse. There's a body wiring connector that may have come loose. This connector passes the sensor signals to the gauges. The speedometer and tacometer are run via the l/p connector (a different connector). I have no idea where those connectors are located on the Renegades.
  9. Just a shot in the dark here. Turn the iginition on without starting the engine. Does the light flash any codes?
  10. Glad you got it working!
  11. Can I presume that you've verified that the coil is producing a spark and the plug/coil wires are not leaking? I ran into a problem with my Suburban. The plug wires were leaking high voltage. You can seen the corona discharge around the plug wires in a darkened garage (easier to see at night). Heat can cause the insulation to breakdown resulting in severe engine misfire especially under load or acceleration. That was my experience.
  12. I would consider the highest horsepower machine you can afford. There's a formula that calculates how much horsepower you'll lose with altitude. HP Loss = (elevation in feet above sea level x 0.03 x horsepower @ sea level)/1000 At your 9500 ft altitude, you'll lose about 28% of the available horsepower from sea level. The Tracker uses the Chery brand Chinese engine. There are several other "off brand" SxS that uses that brand of engine including the brand name John Deere 825I Gator. The common size engines are 800cc & 1100cc. If the machine has a 3-cyl 800cc or 4-cyl 1100cc gas engine, it may be the Chery engine. It's a common engine in South America, Africa and of course Asia. There's no such thing as a perfect SxS or ATV that will fit all needs of any one individual. I like my ride. But support is spotty and may be hard to find. I've found I'll have to do most of my repairs when needed. However, I haven't had any major issues with it yet. Seems that from my research, the differentials are somewhat weak if pushed beyond their limits. Mine is more like a car - it has a clutch and 5-speed transmission vs others who have CVTs. The CVT is easier to drive. With a cluth/transmission, I have to be more proactive with gear selection in managing power to the wheels. It's not really designed to take it airborne over sand dunes and jumps. The Massima (Hisun) and some others have an unusual locking differential arrangement. Can't lock the differentials unless you're in 4WD, then both are locked. Mine has individually selectable lockers independent of 4WD selection.
  13. I'm running the risk of telling you stuff you already know. Your Massimo (made by Hisun) and the Bennche have similar 4WD/Lock systems. In 2WD, the rear diff can't be locked (shouldn't be unless there's a problem with the actuator). You can select 2WD or 4WD unlocked differentials. There's a lever that covers your lock/unlock select switch. You rotate if you're in 4WD to uncover the lock/unlock selector. This switch locks both front and rear differentials; not independently selectable. Apparently, you can't lock just the rear diff or just the front diff. If you can, jack up the rear of your machine and select 2WD, neutral transmission. Turn one of the rear wheels; the other wheel should rotate in the opposite direction if unlocked; same direction if locked. It doesn't make sense to have a differential locked when driving on hard surfaces. Puts too much stress on the internal differential parts and tires.
  14. I don't see how the differential can cause what you describe as it isn't really part of the steering system. Check the CV joints with the wheels off the ground. Grab the tire and see if you have any excessive play. I would also look at the tie rods and Heim joints and other steering linkage componens that connect the two wheels together. It's weird that they turn together when off the ground, but not when weight is applied.
  15. I can only suggest you trace the wiring from the fuse to the blower motor and clutch. Could be an intermittent dead short to ground in the wiring or blower motor. Disconnect the blower motor to see if the fuse holds. If it does, the blower motor is suspect. Otherwise, the wiring. Do the same for the clutch just in case it is in the clutch.


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