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Dan B

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Dan B last won the day on December 18 2017

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About Dan B

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  • Location Surprise, AZ, United States

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  • UTV Brand
    Own Joyner Renegade R2-1100cc

  1. The smell of raw gas in the exhaust tells me one or more of your injectors might be stuck open. The excess fuel pressure after shutdown might be bleeding off into the cylinder making restart difficult. But that would also show black smoke upon start up. If you have a source of compressed air, you might be able to see or feel air coming out the injector. Worth a try.
  2. If it's blue smoke all the time (sitting at idle & while driving), it's most likely the oil control rings. A compression test won't expose that problem. But if the oil control rings are bad, it's likely that the compression rings are also bad (might show low compression). If only under heavy acceleration, it's the valve stem seals. The vacuum created under heavy acceleration can cause oil to be drawn past worn valve stem seals. This info is from many websites on automobile engines. ATV/UTV engines aren't much different.
  3. I would think any hydraulic system, if vented, should have a very outstanding filter to keep dust and debris out of the system, especially of road vehicles. Here's a l;ink that addresses the placement of the power steering pump's reservoir. http://www.pscmotorsports.com/pdf/tech/reservoir_tips.pdf
  4. I'm not a fan of any "cure in a can" solution, but you might try some belt dressing. It makes the belt and pulley have a slightly higher coefficient of friction. If the belt is slipping, that may help. The squealing from belt slipping is different than a whining from low PS fluid level. Another thought of mine. Most PS systems that I'm familiar with have the reservoir at the pump or very close to it. Yous is located quite a distance; probably because of clearance problems with the installation. That could be an issue.to consider. Pumps are of four general types: a combination of high/low pressure with high/low volume. PS pumps are Low Volume High Pressure. They aren't capable of drawing a high vacuum through a long line.
  5. My guess: I believe the high RPM requirement has something to do with the relatively low torque of the engine itself. With a higher HP & torque value, the transmission & differential can have lower gear ratios giving better top end speeds at lower engine RPMs. My 6.0L engine can move my 8000lb van at 65 mph with the engine turning at 1800 rpm..
  6. I have a 2014 Joyner Renegade R2 1100cc. I've seen many posts about these bolts sheering off. I don't run my R2 very hard. I live in the desert southwest; not much mud around here. I'm just wondering if I've got a potential of having the same problem or do these bolts only sheer off when running hard through deep mud and such. Did Joyner realize this problem and include 12.9 bolts in later versions, like my model year? Seems like this problem appears in the earlier model years.
  7. It's a timing mark. The crankshaft gear tooth with a timing punch mark is lined up with the camshaft punch mark. You should get a service manual to ensure they are lined up correctly.
  8. I know it has to connect the front axles to the drive train either through the differential or inside the transaxle itself. In my research, it's in the front differential. I'm reluctant to take anything apart at this point since I'm new to 4WD and off-roading. I just want to know if the lever is operating normally. I don't want it to pop out of 4WD on the fly and maybe cause damage. Thank you for any info and insight you can provide.
  9. The 4WD lever is "spongy" and doesn't feel like it's locked into the 4WD position even though the transaxle seems to be in 4WD.
  10. I'm new to 4WD. I have a 2014 Renegade T2, 1100cc engine, 1700 mi. I'm having difficulty selecting 4WD. I don't want to do anything that might cause damage. The only info I can find is to bring the UTV to a complete stop before selecting 4WD. When I do that, the handle doesn't seem to engage 4WD; it doesn't stay in the down position. Do I have to release the clutch? Do I have to drive forward / backward to make it engage? I don't think I have a transmission problem (no grinding of any gears). Maybe a cable adjustment issue? Thanks in advance for your help.
  11. Yep, I did notice. Many "help me posts" are very old. But I posted anyway in case someone needs to do an emergency repair until they can find the necessary, hard to find parts.
  12. What exactly is wrong with the female portion of the connector? It looks okay unless there's a broken connection inside the connector. I presume the male connector is okay. You can replace the pins on many connectors without replacing the housing. If the wire is broken inside, you might be able to pop out the broken one (with a small pin probe) and solder or otherwise remake the connection. I have, in the past, cut off the bad connector, crimped on a matching solderless connector to the individual wires and plugged the wires back into the circuit. Not on any ATV or UTV, but I have done it on my truck because the connector was more expensive that I thought is should be. Desperate times call for desperate measures.
  13. I'll presume you've removed most of the air from the master cylinder. The usual process of that is to bench bleed the master cylinder before installation. If you use method A, make sure your pedal pumper keeps their foot on the brake pedal and ride it down to the floor while you open the wheel cylinder bleeder valve. Tell him not to take his foot off the pedal until you close the bleeder valve. I make sure I tell my assistant that every time. My assistant may not know how the bleeding process works. Method B, in my opinion, is the best followed by method C which is good. Method C uses a hand operated pump which is less expensive than the setup required for Method B. I wouldn't use D - to easy to introduce air or contaminants.
  14. You want the compression to be nearly the same on all three cylinders for balance. 120 is a little low; should be closer to about 135 with not more than 10% (13.5 lbs) variation between the cylinders. You may only have to adjust the valves to fix the issue (hopefully).
  15. If the firing order was incorrect, you'd have two cylinders with problems. With two of three cylinders not firing properly, I'd expect an extremely rough running engine. Checking the compression would be a good idea. Maybe a valve is stuck open; just partially is all it would take.