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Dan B

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Dan B last won the day on October 19

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About Dan B

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  • Location Surprise, AZ, United States

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  • UTV Brand
    Own Joyner Renegade R2-1100cc

  1. It's a timing mark. The crankshaft gear tooth with a timing punch mark is lined up with the camshaft punch mark. You should get a service manual to ensure they are lined up correctly.
  2. I know it has to connect the front axles to the drive train either through the differential or inside the transaxle itself. In my research, it's in the front differential. I'm reluctant to take anything apart at this point since I'm new to 4WD and off-roading. I just want to know if the lever is operating normally. I don't want it to pop out of 4WD on the fly and maybe cause damage. Thank you for any info and insight you can provide.
  3. The 4WD lever is "spongy" and doesn't feel like it's locked into the 4WD position even though the transaxle seems to be in 4WD.
  4. I'm new to 4WD. I have a 2014 Renegade T2, 1100cc engine, 1700 mi. I'm having difficulty selecting 4WD. I don't want to do anything that might cause damage. The only info I can find is to bring the UTV to a complete stop before selecting 4WD. When I do that, the handle doesn't seem to engage 4WD; it doesn't stay in the down position. Do I have to release the clutch? Do I have to drive forward / backward to make it engage? I don't think I have a transmission problem (no grinding of any gears). Maybe a cable adjustment issue? Thanks in advance for your help.
  5. Yep, I did notice. Many "help me posts" are very old. But I posted anyway in case someone needs to do an emergency repair until they can find the necessary, hard to find parts.
  6. What exactly is wrong with the female portion of the connector? It looks okay unless there's a broken connection inside the connector. I presume the male connector is okay. You can replace the pins on many connectors without replacing the housing. If the wire is broken inside, you might be able to pop out the broken one (with a small pin probe) and solder or otherwise remake the connection. I have, in the past, cut off the bad connector, crimped on a matching solderless connector to the individual wires and plugged the wires back into the circuit. Not on any ATV or UTV, but I have done it on my truck because the connector was more expensive that I thought is should be. Desperate times call for desperate measures.
  7. I'll presume you've removed most of the air from the master cylinder. The usual process of that is to bench bleed the master cylinder before installation. If you use method A, make sure your pedal pumper keeps their foot on the brake pedal and ride it down to the floor while you open the wheel cylinder bleeder valve. Tell him not to take his foot off the pedal until you close the bleeder valve. I make sure I tell my assistant that every time. My assistant may not know how the bleeding process works. Method B, in my opinion, is the best followed by method C which is good. Method C uses a hand operated pump which is less expensive than the setup required for Method B. I wouldn't use D - to easy to introduce air or contaminants.
  8. You want the compression to be nearly the same on all three cylinders for balance. 120 is a little low; should be closer to about 135 with not more than 10% (13.5 lbs) variation between the cylinders. You may only have to adjust the valves to fix the issue (hopefully).
  9. If the firing order was incorrect, you'd have two cylinders with problems. With two of three cylinders not firing properly, I'd expect an extremely rough running engine. Checking the compression would be a good idea. Maybe a valve is stuck open; just partially is all it would take.
  10. I have an R2-1100cc witch is almost like a trooper with a different body style. After I turn the ignition on, I have to wait about 3-5 seconds for the gauges to cycle before I can start the engine. It probably has something to do with the ECU "booting" up. I don't think the ECU gets power until the ignition switch is in the "ON" position. Like the computer you are using now, you can't turn it on and use it until it boots up. At least that'w what makes sense to me.
  11. I have a Renegade but the wiring is probably close to the same. Take a close look at your speedometer and tachometer connections. There's one wire that goes to all of your gauges including the speedometer and tachometer. A break in the wire at one of those two (speed or tach) will interrupt the power going to the rest of the gauges. That's the only thing common to all of your gauges (other than the fuse which you said is good). I should ask if your warning lights work. They are powered from that same wire. If they don't operate, then I'm leaning to a bad connection at the speed or tachometer.
  12. The 825i uses the exact same Chery engine as the Renegade with the 812cc engine. It's transverse mounted to accommodate the CVT transmission. It wouldn't surprise me that much of the Trooper engine parts (1183cc) are interchangeable with the 812cc engine. The 1183cc looks like it's an 812cc engine that has been modified to accommodate the extra cylinder. 812cc ÷ 3 cylinders = 270.666cc for each cylinder. 270.666cc x 4 cylinders = 1082.666cc
  13. From your description it sure sounds like you have a fuel starvation problem. I would keep the fuel filter before the fuel pump to protect the pump form failure. Your fuel starvation problem could be a crack or loose pickup tube in the fuel tank that is exposed to air above the fuel level inside the tank. Another owner on another board went through his entire fuel system. Cleaned the tank, installed the filter before the fuel pump (his was installed backwards), replaced fuel lines, cleaned the pickup tube, added a vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake air plenum. His problem was fuel starvation after about 15-20 minutes of operation on level ground. But his issues may lead you to a solution. I doubt he had to go through all that, but he cold almost guarantee that he'd fix the problem.
  14. The torque curve and the horsepower curve are different. But one unique thing about these curves is they meet when the engine RPM is 5252. It's an engineering thing that you can research. That is where the engine at its highest efficiency but not necessarily where you'd want the engine to operate all the time. So spinning the engine faster results in less torque and horsepower unless you add a super/turbo charger. I would be concerned with spinning these engines much faster than about 6000 RPMs for a long time that the engine would stay together.
  15. Thanks for checking on that for me. I was afraid I didn't have a 5th gear even though the shift lever was in the 5th gear position. I just hope my engine doesn't bust a gut traveling fast. The tach can be a backup speedometer and vice versa. Thanks again.