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Showing most liked content since 02/18/2017 in all areas

  1. 3 likes
    Here are two short videos....first is with stock exhaust....the second us with new exhaust. i had my wife record from the same place both times to get an accurate noise level...I'm was shocked/ impressed let me know what you think. well I tried to load videos.....both times failed! ill reply to your email Video 1.MOV Video 2.MOV john
  2. 3 likes
    Hey all....all done. The new exhausts 100% better....much quieter!! Attached are some before and after pictures. I used a new Walker, Quier-Flow muffler....catalog says its for a 1983 Toyota. It is 6" round..body is 10" long, it has 1-1/2" inlet/ outlet/ offset pipes....I made/ fabricated/ welded the hanger on the muffler. ....and of course bent a pipe to adapt from the existing exhaust.
  3. 2 likes
    Hi i am new to the utv world (i am an automotive thech in off-road performance on jeep and Dodge for 13 years that have decided to retire from the 4x4 world and play whit something smaller ) The big problems i see whit the hisun is a cooling fan issue that eat so much amp that the generator cant keep the batteries charge (i have the dual cooling system and whit 2 fans on it goes under 10 volts if you run at low speed that cause after few hours to run out of batteries. Batteries not have the amp to hold enough charge to push the fan at the best performance and generator cannot hold the OEM fan when the batteries is not enough charged (overheat issue was caused by that) an other problem that is a batteries issue was the starter itself it need more amp than the batteries have so the slow crancking is caused by that. When i worked on cf moto and odess utv i noticed that cf moto add the same starting issues due to the same problem too small batteries but odess use a honda civic batteries to make it work just fine (fans runs no more than 2 minutes instead of cf moto and hisun that the fans runs mostly all of the time) so i know that the batteries is a 12 volt u1 or u11 batteries so if i want to put a 1095cca batteries or a yellow top optima batteries on a custom case does the elictrical system will be able to handle a batteries that have 300-400% more ca than the small batteries or not (i know that the light will be more brighter i already replace the flasher/stop bulb factory instaled for a full l.e.d. bulb and socket hehe ). I know some people have done that on old 6 volt system atv whit no problem at all but i just want to make sure i will not frie the whole electrical system whit a bigger batteries hehe i will place some maxi fuse on the main relais and fuse system but not on the starter
  4. 2 likes
    GOOD FOR YOU, GIVING IT TO DISABLED VETS, THUMBS UP!
  5. 2 likes
    Stay as far away from Hisun as you can, fit and finish nice but I bought a truck load and every single machine failed in the first 5 miles and took months to get parts. 5 out of 5 generators failed as well and they would not offer any warranty support! They set up dealers just to get rid of inventory. Units that cannot be retailed to dealers goes to the auction house and drives the value down, Nada wont ever put a resale value for Hisun on their website. They do not support dealers, I finally got my last one to the auction house and the throttle cable broke on it way to the selling line! Its like throwing money away doing business with these folks... Run away and hide from Hisun as fast as you can! or just send me the cash!
  6. 2 likes
    Picked up my Mule in late November and have been using it a lot over the past few weekends. This UTV just keeps on amazing me of what it can do. I have lots of old logging trails that have been overtaken by brush and sappling's that my 4X4 truck can no longer navigate through, but the Mule plows through and over anything in its path. I have a natural gas line running up a steep hill that is covered in limestone and other huge rocks that the Mule has conquered going up and down and sideways. Going through pastures at 25 mph as smooth as a Cadillac on the highway is really nice. I have yet to try deep mud or snow but that should be coming soon in the next few weeks, I hope. She may not be a speed demon like some of the others out there, but she will climb with the best of them.
  7. 2 likes
    Hey everyone, I have made some modifications since I purchased my Massimo 500 MSU/UTV earlier this year and I thought I would share with you. Please give me some feed-back and let me know what you think of my MODS. Here's the VIDEO:
  8. 2 likes
    I think it looks great! Keep going
  9. 2 likes
    G'day guys, been awhile since I posted in here, Great to see some of the old faces still here especially Kinarfi. I thought I'd give a bit of support to Kymco as these machines are really gaining popularity now and we are supporting them with aftermarkets parts where we can. Like CF Moto, they have broken through into the North American limelight now. Jeff, I'm not to sure that you know Lenny's wife and I have gone our own ways now and I've hooked up with another partner from Missouri. Kurt Driemeyer has his own company too that builds Body Armor for Kymco's and Arctic Cats. Between Kurt and I we pretty much have you covered for Windshields, Roofs, Doors, Back Panels, Front and Rear Bumpers, Tree Kickers, Bed Rails, Tires, Wheels and much more. So if you need one of these accessories, check out Pacific Eagle UTV, Off Road Body Armor and Powersports Megamall. We cover most makes and models Cheers, Brostar
  10. 2 likes
    Hello! New guy from sweden here. did buy a 800 Widebody from 2015! Seems like its an odd utv? Wanted to get tracks to it but everybody said it didn't work. But couln't say why.. Buuuut. it did..
  11. 2 likes
    Congrats on your purchase. I have lots of info on that model. Manuals, tips and advice. check out www.250utv.com and you will find everything you need there. Matt
  12. 2 likes
    All you need to do is show me a lower advertised price. I will then match and beat it by 5%. Don't waste time and get your parts from the source with the best guaranteed prices!
  13. 2 likes
    I made my own electric power steering for my Joyner trooper..I bought a steering column out of a 02 satern vue for $80 at a junk yard..then bought a wiring kit off of eBay for another $80. And made the steering arm...the wiring kit even came with a adjustable nob..
  14. 2 likes
    It is a 2015 first year blues I guess....so far so good on this repair . the boys at Yocum motor sports did a good job and repaired things that Wallace tractor did wrong.
  15. 2 likes
    Looking at getting more height out of my Kawasaki Mule. Put a lift kit on it but wondering about putting 28 inch tires or 30 inch tires? Don't know if 30 inch clearance is too large.
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    The generator coil is pretty good ,the starter itself need 2 time the amp of the batteries to make it work just fine. I can confirm you that the starter itself will never frie as long as you not try to jump start it whit a 24 volt batteries hehe and its a 12 volt starter its more damagable for the starter to run whit not enough amp than more(he cant take more amp than it need himself)maybe the power cable of the starter will have to be upgraded but not a big deal to this side. My biggest concern was about all the rest . Do the voltage regulator will like to have a batteries of 800 + cca. The whole system itself will be able to handle that? I tried to contact hisun but after 1 month they will never answer me hehe I know alot in the automotive but not so much in utv and atv so any good answer are welcome
  18. 2 likes
    Hi i have read your stories and i own a motobishi raptorex 2011 800cc (hisun strike differently named) Hisun brand its part of the ghanzou automotive that own cfmoto,odess, hisun and few other brand of utv. Check at cfmoto dealer for part. All driveline parts will fit on the hisun. It is what i have do on mine before it break and i never touched it again. The problem whit the yoke on hisun utv is a cast material and machining issue. If you are good in mechanic you can flip the coin and do brp, shaft and yoke upgrade (just need a good drive shaft shop to make new drive shaft
  19. 2 likes
    Chery Engine Parts Cross by Rusty Nutz Racing » Wed Dec 16, 2009 9:24 pm Maybe this will help all the Joyner owners out, after hours and hours of research I found that the 2007 and older Chery engines are a clone of the ford's Britian CVH (escort) motor such as the 1.1, 1.3, 1.6 and 2.0. The great thing is that even though it was a clone of the Britian Ford CVH motor, they used 90% of the same parts as Ford U.S. CVH motor. The trannys are a VW model gear boxes with Ford bell housing. Least that is what mine is. Like the 650, 800 & 1100 are from a 1.1 to 1.3L VW golf. I have the 2006 1600 Joyner and my tranny is from a 97 VW Jetta. Now I'm not saying everything will bolt right up on the 650, 800 and 1100's you'd have to check that out yourself. But I know a friend that has a 800 Roketa and replaced transmission parts with a 1.3L VW golf. Another friend with a 2007 Joyner 1100 used gears and several other parts from a 1.3L Golf tranny. I have a 97 Jetta tranny that matches perfect to my 1600. I'm currently running a VW Jetta starter on my 1600. I bought several ford escort parts as replacement parts that fit perfect. Just do some research or pull photos of the VW 1.3L tranny and you can compare what it looks like to what you have. Do the same on the engines. Google photo of the 1.1 or 1.3 and see if they don't look real close to what you have. I've seen this info before but not on this forum. thought it might be of interest Jeff
  20. 2 likes
    After replacing the cigar box sized battery in my Mule for two years in a row (at a cost of about $80 per trip), I decided to mount a deep cycle group 24 behind the front seat. Bought a sturdy battery holder, a couple of 32" cables and voila!....no more battery blues I usually get about three years out of one of these. Also installed a 2 amp trickle charger. Me so happy.
  21. 2 likes
    To find out which wire goes to the battery, use a continuity test. With the battery disconnected, and the key in the off position. Using a multi meter, set to ohms, run a jumper from the positive battery terminal, of the disconnected battery. Hook the jumper wire to one end of the meter, then probe all the terminals on the switch with the other. When you get a reading, there shouldn't be much difference between this reading, and just touching the meter terminals together. There'll probably be some difference, but not much. Then turn the key on, and find the next wire, that'll be the one that's always hot when running. Then the start wire is last. That should just about cover most of the wires on the switch, so you can track down the problem. But from what I've read so far, it seems like a ground wire problem. But if you can't get continuity at the switch then it's obviously a problem on the positive circuit.
  22. 2 likes
    I'm a little late with this, but look what I got to go see on the morning of the 4th. http://www.deseretnews.com/article/865684206/Photos-A-grand-flag-for-a-grand-4th-of-July-celebration.html this just one of several article about the ( Pleasant Grove, Utah Flag )google it if you want. Really awesome, I can see it out my backdoor, especially at night when it's lit up and throws a shadow on the rocks behind it.
  23. 2 likes
    broken yoke ..well couldn't wait for 8 to 10 more days for there delivery . Very disappointed with Hisun in the customer service department. Machine is home with 6 month extended warranty . Not satisfied with machine and service.. I would like to say a special than you to Josh Yocume and Avery . Very professional dealer . Sorry for the problems with your Hisun supplier. Definitely looking for a new machine( if I CAN EVER FIND A DEALER THAT WILL TRADE A HISUN )
  24. 2 likes
    So, I have found a very possible and very interesting engine swap after looking for quite awhileBTW I am still looking and researching. I present to you the 1.4L cylinder out of a Chevy Cruze. Let me first caveat this by saying I have NO problem with my Chery engine. But it seems to have only so much potential and there is not enough technical support and R&D out there. Considering there are thousands and thousands of Chery 1100s out in the world (mostly in other countries) we should have WAY more options than we do. The problem I DO have with the Chery 1100 is the transmission it is bolted too. Even if you BORE, Supercharge, Nitrous this engine the tranny just too weak. I would be more inclined to do motor work if there was a stronger gearbox we could strap to it. My experience has shown me the output shaft is weakthats a stock motor. If you power it up what is next to goprobably clutches. NOW--Why the 1.4L turbo out of a Chevy Cruze? ITS AN ECOTEC! They are plentiful (fleet car motor) and can be had for relatively cheap ($500-$2000 depending on condition and if it comes with or without the turbo). They are compact and lightweight--all aluminum block and cylinder head. They are decently powered (138hp) and even better torque (148 ft/lbs)!!! Most smaller engines, to include ATV/UTV gas powered engines, the hp numbers are always higher than torque numbers. I care about TORQUE! In this case torque is the king over hp and it peaks at 2500 rpm!!! This motor was specifically designed to produce low to mid-range torque. Also, keep in mind factory engines are designed to be economical. This engine could be easily tuned or a bigger turbo installed to go well over 200 hp. Now, the most IMPORTANT partputting the power to the ground: The stock Cruze comes with either a six speed manual or an automatic/hydramatic six speedwith manual shift capability!!! Now, I know what you are thinking. We need a low first gear. Now, I cant find anything online about the Troopers first gear ratio. I called Joyner and I am waiting for a call back. If anyone knows please post. My best guess is its around 5:1??? More intriguingfirst gear in the manual of the Chevy Cruze is 4.27 which is quite low in comparison to most cars being in the 3:1 range. EVEN BETTER the automatic comes with a first gear ratio of 4.58 to one. That is the lowest factory first gear ratio I have found in any FWD 4 cylinder car so far. If you know of one lower please share. Now that may not be low enough for us, but when you keep in mind WE ARE DOUBLING OUR TORQUE it should offset the need for a granny gear. Last, it comes with the manual shift option. This means you can just push the lever forward to shift and back to downshiftNO CLUTCH! Now this is just a birds eye view of this potentially sweet drivetrain swap. Outside of the normal custom intake/exhaust, mounts, rewiring of any engine swap here are some of the bigger things that need to be figured out/answered: How do we lock up the differential in the gearbox differential like the trooper is? The trooper has basically a spool (fully locked). In RWD buggies Joyner turns the motor and tranny 90 degrees and opens the differential (I hear some models are full locked). How would auto/hydramatic transmission handle the stress of offroad? Will technology get in the way of making things simple? Nowadays if you disconnect a seat belt sensor the car wont start (exaggerating herea little). How hard will it be to simplify the ignition system and get the electronics for the transmission of in harmony? Interested to hear your guys thoughts and concerns
  25. 2 likes
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  28. 2 likes
    No it works great..just had to make a linkage for the power steering unit to the stock rack and pinion.. the wiring kit from eBay even can with a knob that I mounted on the dash to adjust how much electric assistants you want.... there is some utube videos about it to.. people have put it on hot rods and tractors.. you can put it on anything really.. you just have to adapt it to whatever you put it on..
  29. 2 likes
    OK for the 09 Trooper T2 front CV's Outer Front NAPA 686-2149 Inner Front NAPA 686-2151
  30. 1 like
    Stay as far away from this company as you can, fit and finish nice but I bought a truck load and every single machine failed in the first 5 miles and took months to get parts. 5 out of 5 generators failed as well! They set up dealers just to get rid of inventory. old inventory goes to the auction house and drives the value down, Nada wont ever put a resale value on their website. They do not support dealers, I finally got my last one to the auction house and the throttle cable broke on it way to the selling line! like throwing money away doing business with these folks... Run away as fast as you can! or just send me the cash!
  31. 1 like
    Yes, I can understand how some mechanics can inflate a problem. But I'm just pointing out that the proper diagnosis is everything. Just replacing suspect parts will only lead to frustration. I've been there before. You can certainly follow a gut feeling, and replace what you think the problem is. Leaking valve guides seems reasonable, considering the symptoms. You might get lucky. In answer to the time it takes to change out the valve seals. It should be about three hours or so. That's assuming he's pulling the head, to change them. Some people have used air pressure to hold the valve in place while changing out those seals. I've also heard of stuffing rope down in through the spark plug hole to accomplish this. It's a less invasive approach, and saves money on parts.
  32. 1 like
    Against the brute it launch faster than my utv but around 65kph i close the gap and pass in front at around 100kph Against the renegade i stay behind but not by so much distances And against the Polaris on 27" tire it was neck and neck whit my utv until we Reach 30kph and leave it in the dust In deep mud my utv on OEM 25" tire have beated all ecxept the renegade but its okay i was pulled only one time for the entire day One of the 4 brute force got big electrical issue and 2 brake an axle in the marsh For a chinese product all guys as been quite impressed on the overall performance and reliability of it for the price
  33. 1 like
    silverbullet I just wanted to let you guys know that any tech question i can help you with. I also wanted to thank all of you for our best year ever.It nice to help you guys out. Thanks Rich
  34. 1 like
    Trust me, dont eat too much jack links.....
  35. 1 like
    Hi, I'm new to the forum and live in Idaho. It's getting colder, so I'm curious if anyone has installed a cab heater in their Hisun? I went to the dealer and they want $800 bucks and maybe more so I ordered a hot rod heater from Summit Racing. Thought I would see if anyone has experience they might share before I begin. Charlie...
  36. 1 like
    I have a 2014 massimo alligator and was wondering if anyone could tell me if it has a governor of some way to increase the speed for climbing hills?
  37. 1 like
    You'd need one with an air conditioner down there in conroe Travis.
  38. 1 like
    Sounds like it's working like it should.
  39. 1 like
    Knock pins are just hollow pins, usually on each side or across from each other. Sometimes you can us a rubber a mallet to tap the 2nd half off, Do NOT use a regular hammer, in case it s aluminum. I do not own a Joyner, so I wouldn't trust my into 100%😉
  40. 1 like
    i will check and post pictures this weekend
  41. 1 like
    Isn't it the clip that you're talking about, the one that keeps it from dropping? I don't understand why one wouldn't have a groove.
  42. 1 like
    This entire ordeal is uncalled for. Hisun, along with any other manufacturers, should have parts on hand. Period. They should also do what is necessary to have a dealer and service network. With the smaller companies they should go above and beyond to keep the customer happy. Lower price won't always be reason enough to be loyal and be a repeat buyer but customer service could be. Stories like this make sure that I won't be looking at Hisun when it's time to buy another buggy. There are no dealers in my area that work on the buggy I have. At the point of sale they are lawn mower mechanics that are not trained to work on buggy's and four wheelers. As far as I know there are no independent shops around here that will work on the Chinese stuff with any sort of warranty. Makes it hard to shell out that kind of money after reading and hearing the horror stories.
  43. 1 like
    Guess he figured it out.
  44. 1 like
  45. 1 like
    Have you checked your fuel filter. and might run some Carbureator cleaner through it. Worked on my Mule 550 whenever it sputtered.
  46. 1 like
    http://www.polaris.com/en-us/atv-ranger-rzr/special-offers
  47. 1 like
    Hi Travis I don't know your story but i have been helping guys on the forum for about 9 years 680 post.Where dose my name come up about Kninarfi
  48. 1 like
    no country has ever remained as it is, always change. I'm sure in future separations are inevitable. Money drives everything.
  49. 1 like
    A friend knows a great guy working for Suzuki who found the gas shock. It's a Kimpex 301576 Gas shock N7 Polaris-front-ATV. Comes with the spring cup.
  50. 1 like
    How to change the Rear Wheel Bearings - By Rocmoc. You will need - Two rear wheel bearings, I got mine from snowman at No Limits Powersports, http://www.joyner-atv-utv.com/ but also available from Silver Bullet Motorsports, http://silverbulletmotorsports.net/ & http://www.jmcmotors.us/ Roller bearings Two seals (metric sizing), part specs TC 45 65 8 purchased from Motion Industries, http://www.motionind...LocationsMI.jsp NOTE: Page 198 of the 2009 manual, page 183 of the 2008 manual, says I need #3(03.06.13871-FB45×65× 13871-FB65X42X8 Seal FB65X42X8) and #32 (03.06.13871-FB45×65× 13871- FB65X45X8 Seal FB65X45X8) seals, but I know that the # 3 seals actually needs to be 62X42X8 Large socket set to break the nut loosen the axle holding the hub on. I have a 3/4" set and worked great. C-clip removal tool, I have one but was easier using an old screwdriver trick. Seal puller, I have a bodyman's dent removal tool with an adapter that works. This saves the old seal but you could use a screwdriver and kill the seal. Remove the wheel/tire. Remove the cotter key. Remove large nut, someone needs sit in the Trooper applying the brakes to keep the axle from turning. Remove the brake calipers, 2 bolts per caliper & two calipers per wheel in the rear for a total of 4 bolts. Slide the hub & rotor off the end of the axle. Remove the 2 bolts holding the backing hub/bearing housing to the swingarm. One on top, one on bottom. Remove the bearing housing. Wipe, clean so you can see what you are doing. Remove the seal. The seal is in front of the C-clip & bearing. Wipe, clean so you can see what you are doing. Remove the C-clip, can be a pain if you have never done it before. Slide the bearing out. CLEAN! That is as far as I am on one side. Waiting for the seals. Why there are seals is beyond me. The bearing is sealed so it is just extra protection. There was grease in the area between the seal & bearing. Cheap insurance so I will put it back the way I found it. I can tell the bearing has spun a very very small amount. The fit between the housing & the bearing is still very very good. Lenny's tip to locite the outside of the bearing in place to the housing is important! But will make it more difficult to remove the bearing the next time it requires replacement. Yes, my original bearing had wear & slop. IMHO not that bad but did need replacement. The bearing isn't as bad as the design of the housing is. Taper roller bearings should have been the real design but what the heck lasted 4 years. If you see anything that needs correction, please post it as a reply. I'll take note, fix, and delete your post.
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