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Nurse First----Erase your #3 down. Don't start reengineering the kart. #1 Although you may find a stubshaft the size you want, you may be placing undue strtess with that pulley and belt hanging out there. Wouldn't want my kids riding a hazard like that. Which leaves #2 #2 seach ebay or amazon or perhaps a local auto supply for standoffs or spacers. In fact I have seen large nuts (5/8 or 3/4)to use as standoffs. Cheaper and this isn't rocket science.check close and make sure you will clear all parts by raising engine. Use flat washers and lockwashers to secure enine firmly. make a habit of checking tightness regularly.

Nurse, FUG GET about it. The eengine is shot. Sounds are hard to decipher but it sounds like a rod rattling around in there. All the time I kept telling you to check the oil, I ASS umed you understood not to overfill. When you overfill a small engine like that the internal parts act like an eggbeater. It hit me when you mentioned how black and dirty the oil looked. I've seen one run until the oil turned to a tar or pitch like substance and freeze up. Even tho you may have loosened it the engine is shot. CANNOT BE REPAIRED. Save your pennies and get a new engine.When you give up trying t hings you'll wish you had just replaced the engine in the first place. PS| For a quick check, remove thge spark plug from engine. Find a long skinny screwdriver or you can use a pencil if you take it easy. As you pull the crank slowly does the screwdriver go in and out `with the` piston. If it doesnt move the connecting rod is broken and not attached to the piston. (No that can't be fixed at this point.

Honda isdefinately your best option . If that don't it your budgetyou can pick up a 13 hp from Harbor Freight for around 395 I think. They actually copied a honda engine I am told. Make sure the footprint fits, the shaft size and length fit. It has both electric strart and hand crank.But it also needs the oil checked regularly.. Watch their sales, join their club and you might get that engine with a 20-25% discount on sale. Keep in touch. Dont buy a kohler!

damn nurse, Oil is the blood of an engine . you have to check the ppressure {level} regularly. If it seized you can probably get ready for a new engine. If I remember correctly you had a kohler engine. While shopping I would check out other brands. Kohler is getting a bad reputation latlely. I would like a Honda engine inj it. You cantry putting oil in it and see if it will crank but I dont give great odds. If you get a new one CHECK THE OIL every time you run it and teach the kids also.

https://youtu.be/2i5F5Ena4nsRR

Ryan I don't see where it would be any different than any other engine. Ask Redbeard. Google him on youtube. I know he runs some and he likes to remove the governor.

Benjamin I assume you have a kohler engine, Have you adjusted the valves? Sounds like the decompression is not kicking in which would throw extra load on the starter.

Jim, I'm going to attempt totake this the messaging

Ooooh-kay. Video sheds a different light on things. Did you strip body panels or did you get it w/o the wrap? TGhose may not be avai;lab ler and if so yhou vcan probably buy a new u nit for what they will cost you. Sounds like trash in the carb `or possibly the governor sertting is off. When removing carb go easy on the four all thread rods that hold it in place. They strip easy in the manifold .I have a book on that carb, I'll find it and send to you. I've never had to change a jet but the orings may go bad. Did you get the repair manual ordered?

Jim, I"ve only seen the double barrel. Saw the single in thge book but not sure if ASW ever used it. The Nikki double barrel is used by severa;l enginde mfg such as Briggs and Kohler. Simple to work on but the carbs are configured differently for other mfgs.Question.......Is your engine running? If it is, I would leave well enough alone until you need to get into it. Sometimes we want to take things apart and clean them and create a bigger problem than we had. Only go after troubles!

Jim I'm going to attempt to post the valve adj portion of the manual only. hope it works. Watch closely to ID which cyl is #1 and which is #2. Also be very careful wiring up the coils. The wire coming out from them is the kill wire and the key switch connect it to grd to stop engine. *****IF 12V HITS THAT WIRE IT WILL FRY THE COILS . i know because my grandson was helping me and made that mistake. Took me forever to find two coils and they were used and expensive. valve.adj.eh65.pdf

Jim, Try this link to a service manual. It will cost you 5.95 but well worth it. I tried sending my copy but couldn't get it to load correctly. You should be able to get instructions and clearances. Is it running bad or you are just checking? Does your engine have the two barrel carb? https://subaru-robin.servicemanualvault.com/Subaru-Robin-EH65-Engine-Service-Manual.html

Not sure about Vin #. Didn't get a title with mine. You probably have an older model 700. Does it have single wheel drive , 2 wheel and 4 wheel also. That engine is no longer being made or sold and parts are hard to come by. If you need anything post on here or send me a message. I'll try to help. I'm in South Louisiana.

Hi Jim, I think what you believe to be a vacuum lne is just a drain line from the carb bowl. If you look closely from the backside of carb {flywheel side) you will see a small screw that is really a valve. What model do you have (UTV not engine) and where are you located? bbirder

Never ever buy a UTV or Bike or anything requiring shipping over the internet. If you can't put your hands on it and test ride, don't pay out any funds. No one is honest like you are!