Greg Kilgore

Alien10, I think this is just the rear differential. The plug is also the speed sensor. It has wires coming out of the plug and a connection for the wires maybe 12 inches from the plug. At least on my axis 500 anyway. I know on my axis 500 the engine oil is also shared with the transmission. The engine oil is also the oil bath for the wet clutch. At least on the Axis 500. BMurph, It is possible that the water was just in the shifter paw cover. Or maybe a previous repair where water got in the oil. The repair was made and it corrected the issue. And the shift paw cover wasn't cleaned. Best of luck and welcome to the forum.

Exactly as Joe said. You have to loose a hose to drain, no petcock. When you add coolant. Be sure to raise the front end. The higher the better. Then on, my axis 500 and others, there's a bleed screw/bolt on the gooseneck on the head. Where the coolant hose connects to the head. Be sure to bleed/burp all the air out. I recommend bleeding there multiple times. Over a course of multiple heating up cycles. If your son did get it hot. Once you have all the air out. Check and make sure there is no coolant in the oil. Make sure there is no bubbles rising in the overflow coolant catch jug with radiator cap on once the engine is up to operating temp. On my axis 500, the temp sensor is on the gooseneck at the head. That sensor turns on the temp idiot light on dash. There is also a temp sensor on the radiator. That one tells the electric fan to kick on and off. Best of luck and welcome to the forum from KY.

All you can do is be honest with them. Tell of any trouble you've had and how you've fixed them. Tell them to research the name and find out for themselves. As long as your honest you can have a clean conscience. As far as the price and what it's worth. That is up to the buyer. One person may say it's not worth a $100 and another person would give full asking price and not try to talk you down. Whatever the buyer is willing to pay. That is what it's worth.

If your wife/boss is anything like mine. I feel sorry for ya' brother.

Thanks

Been there done that. Got the DD214 to prove it. Still can't be an artist. Said my condition was not service related. LOL Just got a call from the GF at new company. Said he'd send me a list of what to bring for orientation and training and I'd start on Jan 7th. My future is looking so bright I've got to wear shades.

Exactly. When the guys came and picked up the truck. I took multiple pics of everything. SN, items turned on and working, ECT. Then cut CC up in tiny pieces. Even pics of odometer showing miles and fuel gauge. Outside and inside of vehicle and trailer. Did those when I received also. In case I was accused of any damage. When I went to the union the day after I quit. I was told that this Union hall had never sent anyone to that company in over 8 years. Asked it there was anything they could do so this to keep this company from taking advantage of the guys still there. Union said nothing they could do except file a grievance if I wanted my job back. Said no cause the company would still find a way to get rid of me. And if I wanted to to stay there I wouldn't have quit. Talked to a guy still working there the week after I quit. He said the company changed their policy and started to pay drive from the company lot to the 1st job of the day and back to the lot. But that was what the union contract stated in the 1st place. Except the union contract put it as the headquarters instead of company lot. So maybe I did help out the remaining guys in the long run. It has to work out. No other choice. LOL. But really I want to be an artist. Sit on the couch and draw a check every month. LOL

Update, got tired of the company questioning my time. Tired of the company wiping their behinds with the union contract. And getting accused twice in one week about my time. And the company only paying me for 11 hours when I worked 11.75 hours. Instead of rounding up to 12 since they could only bill by the hour. Rounded down to 11. I told my General Foreman to have someone at the office. To inventory my truck cause I quit. GF called 10 minutes later said to just bring dollar items (Splicer , OTDR Tester, laptop etc...) in and put in the office. Somebody would inventory the next day cause I would be there until after 5 and everyone left at 4. Told the GF to have someone come to my house and pick up the truck. Sometimes you just have to do what you got to do. I made the 3rd splicer that left in a 4 week period. And about 3 weeks later another guy left. No, I didn't file for unemployment. Can't do that when you quit a job. At least not in KY. This was October 17th 2024. Would have been working for another company, as a splicer, 3 weeks ago. But been fighting an Acute Pancreatitis attack for almost 2 months now. But the new GF told me to call him after Christmas to let him know how I'm doing and if I still wanted the job. I lost about 20lb fighting that Pancreatitis attack. From 287 to 265. But all good. So hopefully I'll be working before the new year. Anyway y'all have a Merry Christmas and a Happy Hangover Kilgore

Alien10 I didn't think any disrespect was implied or intended. I really didn't get offended in any way, shape, fashion or form. I REALLY did appreciate the education on the workings of the compression tester. And truly never thought about how it worked. And as a man that knows it all (joke intended), I didn't read the directions. Or didn't receive any. I've had this for 5 years. And either the directions never came with it or walked away. And if I've offended anyone with the blonde comment, I truly apologize. Didn't mean to. It's just a running joke between me and my wife. Anyway, all good. Thanks again.

Alien10, Dude, I'm not blonde, but I never, never. Never thought or realized THERE IS NO WAY on GODS GREEN EARTH a cylinder would keep the pressure. My my my, I should hang up my tools, and just take up knitting. Any leaking has to come from the Schrader valves in the compression tester hose. I'm just doing a leak down test on the hose connection and hardware. Alien10, thanks for explaining this. Making me realize what I was doing wasn't what I thought I was doing. Man, do I feel dumb. Some people shouldn't own tools. LOL guess I'm one. I'm a little (lot) embarrassed. But maybe others will learn from my mistake. I'm still going to jack this beast up in the air and try the bleeding thing again.

Thanks, Alien10, I need all the luck and confidence I can get. I'll get it one way or another. Well a bit more confused now. I'll list what happened in order. 1. Opened the bleed screw on goose neck on top of cylinder. No antifreeze came out. Couldn't see antifreeze in hole. Screwed bleeder back on. 2. Opened radiator cap. Coolant was a little low. Topped it off. Left cap off. 3. Opened the bleed screw and left off until antifreeze came out. 4. Topped off radiator with coolant and put cap back on. 5. Made sure both of the ball valves were on. So coolant had a least resistance path through the engine. 6. Started engine and let it run for about 10 minutes. No smoke came out of muffler. Did have some "air" come out the hose that broke off the air oil separator. 7. Removed spark plug, disconnected the coil and fuel pump. Installed the compression tester. Held gas pedal to the floor cranked the engine. Got 130psi. (Didn't do the pedal thing during the 1st testing). Lite a cigarette and started the stop watch on the phone. Listened and felt for air at muffler and air oil separator hose. Nothing. Raised the front of UTV about 6 inches. Removed radiator cap. There was a little pressure. But didn't see any bubbles. I drained the overflow jug back down to full mark. 8. So 12 minutes has passed. Compression gauge is reading 125psi. 9. After 16 minutes, compression gauge is still 125psi. I bumped the engine in case the piston is in some way sealing the gasket that I think is compromised. 10. Watching the radiator, still no bubbles, after 20 minutes. Compression gauge is still at 125psi. Can't hear of feel any air at muffler or crank case hose. I release pressure on gauge. Hold gas WOT and crank engine. Compression gauge goes up to 125psi. Battery is weak. Drops to 10.5 while cranking and only 12.1 after. 11. After 30 minutes the compression gauge still at 125psi. Couldn't hear or feel or see air escaping anywhere. Radiator still topped off. No bubbles. Opened the bleed screw. Had coolant weeping around threads. 12. So now 40 minutes has passed from cranking the compression tester the 1st time today. Gauge still at 125psi. No bubbles, or anything. 13. I release pressure from gauge. Removed gauge. Install spark plug. Reconnect coil and fuel pump. Left machine in air. Started machine. 14. Let it run to get operating temp up. Variating the RPM from idle to 5k. Did get some blue smoke, but not a lot. Did have steady blow-by out the crank case hose, even with high RPM. Didn't see any bubbles in radiator. Put cap back on cause coolant started rising when engine temp started to rise. Didn't see any bubbles rising in the overflow jug. Loosen the bleed screw and no air came out. It just weeping coolant. Raised temp to about 150°. Still no bubbles in overflow tank. 15. Turned machine off. Left front end up in air. Will check everything again tomorrow, Sunday or Monday. At this point looks like there was/still some air in the coolant system. As motojoe, Alien10, and Joe Breaux has said all along. But I'm not 100% sure if head gasket is blown or just had air bubble. I'm going to raise the front some more. Then do the same testing and see what happens. As the great Sweat-Hog, Vinnie Barbarino, once said, "I'm so confused." I feel better now. 😂

I've been checking on shops that would work on this beast in the near future. So far I haven't had any luck. I checked and there is one of those storage unit places that will allow me to rent a unit and work on the UTV there. Price isn't bad. 10x10 unit for $40 a month. As soon as he gets a spot open. LOL No electric, so I'll have to use my generator. Parts, cylinder, piston, rings, wrist pen, gaskets etc will be about $300-$350 from Amazon or eBay. They have the parts for about $80-$100 for the older engine. But seems those only fit the 2015 and older. Mine is a 2021. Still waiting on the right time and place to tackle this beast. With that said. There isn't an auto parts store with the loan-a-tool around that has a combustion leak down tester to loan. Only 2 close by. Nor do they have the combustion gas detector either. I checked on Amazon and can get the leak down tester for about $35. It has good reviews. Can get the combustion gas detector fluid for $11 at harbor freight. Maybe parts store has the detector fluid. I haven't checked. But parts store doesn't have the bottle/tool to put the fluid in. But from what I've read. All that needs to be done is have the gasses pass through the liquid. So maybe I can rig something. Cause there are bubbles going into the overflow jug. Just remove that hose and place in an empty clear water bottle. And let it bubble up through some detector fluid. Alien10, I don't have an air compressor or any way to apply pressure to the cylinder except with the compressor tool. The only air compressor I have is one of those 12v that you plug into a car cigarette lighter socket. My brother borrowed my 110 pancake air compressor 5 years ago. LOL I use battery impacts when I need a little extra ump on something. As you suggested, I could put the compressor tester on. And use it to see if I have bubbles. That probably what I'll do today to get out of the house for a minute or two. Maybe run to parts store also to see if I can get the gas tester fluid also. Also just a FYI, on the driver's side of engine. Where the hose connects to the engine case. There is a hose that goes up to a type of air lock, a black plastic piece. That acts as a PCV valve. On the bottom of that piece are 2 nipples and 1 on top. The top has a hose that goes to the air filter box. So blow-by gasses don't enter the cab. One hose on bottom goes no where is is closed off at bottom. It's used to collect oil to keep it from dripping of machine/ground. The other connect to hose going to the case. That nipple is broken. Called an air oil separator, $15 on Amazon. So that is going to get ordered and installed soon. I'll keep everyone posted on the progress of this beast/issue. Wishing every one a Merry Christmas and a Happy Hangover. Kilgore

I've pulled the beast up on 45° hill and bleed system. Even burping at the head. Believe me, I wish it was an air bubble. As much as I've have bleed the system, it's a blown head gasket between the coolant channel and the combustion chamber. But it never hurts to try again.

Side note. Did notice yesterday there was evidence of oil seeping to the outside around the head and block on the passenger side. All around the side to the back. Called a shop already. Closest shop to work on Hisun is 3hr away, 2 month waiting list and $500-$600. Didn't say how long it would take either. So trying to find any shop closer to work on it. I've replaced heads on simple 2.5 iron dukes in S-10 and 2.3 in rangers over the years. Rebuilt carbs, changed stators and did link and sync on outboards. All under a shade tree. But followed directions in repair manuals like Chilton's and Haynes. Just don't have the space or shade tree now. It's cold outside here in Kentucky. And that sxs doesn't look like it's the easiest to get to all the engine that necessary. Without removing a lot of stuff. May just rip out the engine. So who knows if I'll tackle or the shop. If I tackle I'll be sure to take pics and post progress. Then there's the fun of finding parts and tools that are affordable. That's going to be fun. Thanks again for the help.

Your welcome. But just to let you know. The head is blown on my 2021 Axis 500 and I know the cab heater had something to do with it. I not sure if it because I didn't do a good bleeding of air when I first installed. Or if it was because I directed all the coolant through the 16mm heater core instead of the 22mm oem radiator hose. Either way it's still blown. I would recommend a different design or the OEM one from the Axis-offroad . com website. Don't want you to blow up the engine the way I did.

I can't mark any comment as the answer because both members that helped me diagnose this beast has provided the correct information to diagnose the issue. Thanks to both Alien10 and Joe Breaux for the help. With the information both provided I'm 100% sure there is a blown head gasket. The breach of gasket material seems to be between the coolant channel and the combustion chamber. Now all that remains is do I down the machine myself or take to shop. That is going to depend if I can get an enclosed place to work on this beast. LOL Thanks guys I appreciate the help.

I've got bubble coming up in the overflow bottle. Not Alka Seltzer. But I have got a steady 1/4 inch bubbles coming up about 2 bubbles a second.

Exactly, just didn't put it as you did. Didn't know about the gas tester. I'll see if the parts store has something. Thanks. I've used the radiator pressure tester from auto parts before on my GMC truck. So I should get it again and test the Axis. I have checked. Can't be in two places at the same time. I'm good but not that good. LOL I'll have the put something on the gas pedal and watch. I didn't get the wife come out and hold the gas or anything. I'm afraid of what she would've hit with when I told her that the sxs was messed up. Riding around these side roads is about the only pleasure she gets. Doesn't say much about me does it. LOL There could be a bubble but not likely. Just today I used a clamp. Clamped off the hose coming from the goose neck. Opened the bleed screw at goose neck. Just in case there was a bubble that way like you said. And the coolant still came out. Got to laugh about it to keep from crying. Was no coolant in the combustion chamber when I took out spark plug. The paper towel came out clean. I also disconnected the fuel pump and cranked and nothing came out while cranking. I've got it running now with the ball valve for the heater off and the regular coolant hose on. So far all seem good No idiot light. The temp gauge say the the temp is good. Fan turn on at 175 and off at 165 according the gauge I installed on the radiator hose.

Get big bubble in radiator with cap off. It's in the video. I don't think it builds up the pressure to come past the cap. But I'll check in a few and report back. Thanks.

I got 120lbs that then bled down to 105 in 15 minutes of sitting. I get air bubbles bubbling up in the radiator while the engine is running. The Idiot temp light on dash came on after I installed the cab heater and refilled the radiator (thought I had all air out). Has done that a few times but was able to rev engine a few times and it went off while riding 3 days after the heater was installed. I bleed the coolant system at the bleed screw on the goose neck at the head. Until coolant start to come out. Then run the engine. Then watch the bubbles come to the top of the radiator fill opening. That is shown in the video. I may have some blow by but not a lot. No I don't think so. Can't hear or fill anything. Guess I could use soapy water to make sure. But the head is nice and dusty. I'm getting something bubbling of the radiator with cap off. Guess I could hold a lighter there and see if I get an increase in flame when bubbles pop to see if fuel is present. The bubbling is seen in video. When I open radiator cap when it has been setting for a day or two. There is pressure present. And the radiator is full. No drop nor increase as far as I can tell. I'll check here in a few. I topped off the overflow jug when I added that cab heater. I should drain it back to normal and monitor. No change color. No oil floating. Thanks I'll need it. I'm currently giving it the twice over. Been setting a week or so. Radiator topped off. Air at goose neck. I'm pulling the spark plug. Going to stick a white paper towel in and see what come out. Post after.

Thanks for the input. I have the know-how, (with some help, hopefully, from this forum and YT if I have trouble). Don't have a enclosed work space. And it's winter. So I'll probably have to send to a shop. The closest authorized shop is 3ish hours away and a 2 month wait. May see if any shop is willing to work on it. Didn't have any issues until I installed that heater. Then it got hot enough to turn on idiot temp light on dash. Because I didn't bleed where coolant line comes out of the head. Just wondering if I should remove the heater. The heater pipes are about 16mm and the radiator hoses are about 22mm. And the way I plumed the thing was to force all the coolant through the heater, but also left a heater bypass. Hand controlled by ball valves. Either way the wife blames me for f-ing around with it. LOL Every married man knows how that goes. Got a sign in the yard that says "Property Protected by PMS Security System". LOL Any way may have to restore coolant system back to stock or build something that will allow the same flow and still go through the heater. I don't know. Anybody have any input.

Just want to stress the importance of bleeding that coolant system if you cut any hoses. Be sure to bleed the system good. Having the front raised off the ground will help. I think I blew a head gasket on mine. By not bleeding directly after opening the coolant system.

Glad you figured it out and got it fixed. Did you make that video? If so, or if not, doesn't matter either way, I have beard envy. 😂 Glad you got it going. And have a Merry Christmas and a Happy Hangover.

I'm 99.9% sure head gasket is blown. Don't have coolant in oil. That a good thing. But think coolant is getting in combustion chamber. I did compression test. Got 120psi walked away. Came back to 105psi 15 minutes later. How hard is it to replace? https://youtu.be/N31mOtOPuKI?si=nSnuF4-weRU2T10t Advise?

Fingers, toes, and eyes crossed. 😂