Greg Kilgore

BUCK, I have an Axis 500. I have no shift issues. Haven't changed anything with brake pedals. With engine running, I can go N to HI or LO with no brake LO to HI or N with no brake. LO, HI, or N to R have to have brake. R to N, HI or LO no brake. Start in any position with no brake. Don't shift to any gear rolling. I'd check the linkage on your father-in-law's machine.

X2 ⬆️ Or out of adjustment.

I know the Axis/Hisun manual says it has a low oil switch that will shut down that machine if it has low oil. And a pull start generator gave me a fit one cold day when electricity was off due to a storm. Because the oil change I did a month before. The oil was too thick when cold.

See below for fuse location and amperage. And where the fuse blew again 30 minutes later. I'd look at the wiring. and it looks like the ECU shares the fuel pump fuse. best of luck.

Well as usual I'm wrong. There is a pin that prevents it going into reverse unless the brake is applied. But didn't see anything about a separate switch on brake pedal for shifting. Could be the brake light switch has multiple purpose. I'd check it anyway just to make sure. And check the shift linkage. See pics below. Good luck.

There is a safety switch (I think) that is supposed to prevent you from shifting gears without having you foot on the brake. That switch is also supposed to prevent you from starting the machine in gear without having you foot on the brake. I'll take a quick look and see if I can locate where it is. I think it is by the brake light switch at the base of the brake pedal. Kinda like the switch that kill the engine of a riding mower if you get off the seat with the blades engaged or in gear and fall off.

Glad to hear you found PART of the problem. Reason I say part, is there is a reason that fuse blew. If the original fuse was 15 amp. And it worked for 2ish years then blew to protect the circuit. There is a short causing the fuse to blow. Hate to say it, but sounds like there is still something wrong. Something is causing the fuse to blow. If you don't find what that is. It may cost you a lot more in the future. You have narrowed it down. Now just trace down the wires in that circuit to make sure there are no chafed wires. I'd remove any tape or wire lume and inspect the wires themselves. Repair any bad spots. And put the original size fuse amperage back. Good luck. Glad I could help.

Was thinking. Dangerous I know. If it cranks but won't hit AND the display on dash isn't working also. I'd look for something common to both situation. Like fuse or key switch and such.

Could be something in the key switch shorting out and sending a kill signal. Could be a low oil level switch/sensor also. Could be bad coil. Could be bad fuse. In pages below main switch is the key switch. Q I got these pic/pages from a service manual in the download section. Hope something here helps.

Double check the battery cables, all power connections, check ground for solenoid, machine, and starter while you're at it. You can do a voltage drop test to make sure power cables are good. Almost like checking voltage on battery. Set multi-meter to DC voltage. To test positive cable from battery to solenoid. 1. Connect 1 probe (red) to positive of battery. 2. Connect other probe (black) where the cable connects to the solenoid. 3. Have someone try to start machine and see what the voltage reads. Should be less than 0.5 volts. Depending on where the red and black probes are connected it may show -0.5 volts. Can check solenoid same way. 1. Leave red probe at positive of battery. 2. Move black probe to the cable going to the starter where it connects to the solenoid. 3. Have someone try to start machine and see what the voltage reads. Should be less than 0.5 volts. Depending on where the red and black probes are connected it may show -0.5 volts. Check the cable going to starter the same way. 1. Move the red probe to the solenoid where the cable going to starter connects. 2. Move the black probe to where the cable connects to the starter. 3. Have someone try to start machine and see what the voltage reads. Should be less than 0.5 volts. Depending on where the red and black probes are connected it may show -0.5 volts. Can check the ground in the same way. Just move the black probe to the negative side of battery. Move the red probe to the machine frame, where the negative cable attaches to the machine, or the starter housing. Have someone try to start machine and see what the voltage reads. Should be less than 0.5 volts. Depending on where the red and black probes are connected it may show -0.5 volts. The voltage on meter will only display briefly. Anything greater than 0.5 volts indicates a bad connection in the section being tested. Best of luck. Let's us know what you find out.

Had a CFMoto, the CVT shredded and locked up the rear wheels. Doing 30ish on blacktop. Rolled onto drivers side. Me no seatbelt and wife strapped in. I didn't get a scratch (got very very lucky. Pulled arm in at last second) and wife was badly bruised from seatbelt. Installed 5-point harnesses on both driver and passenger on new Axis 500.

Mattdz86, I'm sure that is going to help somebody out. Great post. Great pics.

I would really like to know what you guys think about this. I'll try not to ramble and make it as clear as I can. I took this new job with companyX as a fiber splicer a year ago. I have a 45' bucket truck and 10or12 x 8 ft enclosed splice trailer I have to take home. Within the last 6 months all the management in the splice dept left. Now the power/construction management and higher ups are filling in. Just recently we were told travel to our 1st job is not payable even though we are in a company vehicle. We are union so I asked the union business manager about this. His reply was be grateful you were paid travel as long as you were and that you don't have to drive your POV to the job. Last week I had 50hr total. The job area is 4-4.5 hrs away. My time was reduced to 44.5 hrs since we were told this travel thing on Tuesday of that week. I wasn't hired for this area. I was hired for area a lot closer to home. Pay is good. Work is not hard. Insurance is through the union and so far pretty good. But I hate the thought of having to work extra just to make a 40hr paycheck. Anyone who has to drive as part of their job knows windshield time is not easy. Anyway what do you guys think. Should I look for a different job or just suck it up because of the decent pay and health insurance.

I did a few times. Once when on a HARD pull in high range. (I'm not calling it a transmission any longer with high and low gear cause the CVT system changes the "gear". I'm calling it a "transfer" case with high and low range.) But put it in low and had no trouble. Lately been having more and more slipping but I've got almost 3000 miles on my Axis in 2 years. Did you clean the sheaves good. Then scuff them a little with a green brillo pad. Check YouTube for cleaning any CVT belt system and they will have it on there. I'm going to have to get another belt here soon and do a change on mine.

As far as I know the oils that need changed is 1. Engine oil which also lubes the "transmission" 2. The front differential 3. The real differential. When changing the engine oil, I took the top hose off the oil cooler and used cheap, low pressure tire inflator (12v that plugs into cigarette socket) to blow the oil back through the lines. Then out the oil drain plug. It takes just a little more oil when changing. But 99% ( + - ) of the old oil is removed from the machine when changing oil.

Couldn't tell a lot from video. Did sound like a little bit of a miss. In the dark check to see if the plug wire is arcing. Check connections for coil and spark plug. Maybe check and re-gap the spark plug. Good luck and keep us informed.

Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you hit everything and then some. The only thing I didn't see was adjust the valves. And fuel filter. my fuel filter looked as if the ends where the hoses connect had been dipped in paint. Then the fuel caused the paint to flake off. Had some rather large paint chips come out of factor filter after only a few hundred miles. I replaced and got a new injector but haven't replaced the injector yet. That was literally 1000 miles ago. Only major issue I've had with mine was the rear driveshaft. The part on the engine/transmission that the driveshaft attaches to is referred to as a cup. The rear driveshaft has splines that slides into the cup. The splines in cup and on the shaft chewed up. But was able to put in 4 wheel drive to limp back home. Was quicker to get replacement parts off Amazon then wait for the mobile tech. That was at the 500ish mile mark and I've got over 2500 now. Mostly 1 lane blacktop and dirt/gravel road. But a little off-road trails. Nothing too ridiculous. Wife doesn't like off-roading. Hope you get it figured out.

I put a cheap cab enclosure on my Axis this winter. I had to remove my mirrors to install enclosure. Would have to either cut hole in enclosure for mirror or leave them off. I left them off. I ordered a $30 backup camera with monitor and installed. Plugged into 12v power port and powered both the camera and monitor. Ran cable up around rollcage. In a couple of weeks I'll take enclosure off and put mirrors back on. But I think I'll keep the camera.

Hello and welcome to the forum. Don't know where to locate a shop manual. But they're a lot of people on here with knowledge about rebuilding. Just ask questions. Someone should be able to help. The banshee, Coleman's, Axis and others are all re-branded Hisun with different plastic. Just a few small changes from brand to brand.

Reset the computer. Easy to do. Procedure is 1. With machine off. Turn key to "ON" don't try to start. Listen for the fuel pump to kick on. 2. As soon as you hear fuel pump kick on. Turn key "OFF". 3. Do the cycle of "ON" "OFF" 5 time within 30 seconds. Making sure the fuel pump kicks ons each time. Do NOT start the machine. 4. After the 5th "ON/OFF" cycle. Leave "OFF" for 30 seconds. 5. Start the machine as usual. Also always when starting the machine. The correct procedure is as follows. A. Turn key "ON" B. Listen for the fuel pump to kick on, build up pressure, and kick off. C. Turn key to "START" Hope this helps.

Use conventional NOT synthetic. Synthetic will cause the clutch to slip and not grab especially if it's a high mile machine.

From Coleman 400 manual. From Hisun 500 manual. Also found out why some oils "meet" the JASO MA or JASO MA2 requirements and some are "certified" . To get "certified" and be able to use the JASO MA symbol. Oil makers send oil to labs to get tested and pay big bucks so the can use the symbol that states their oil is "certified" If their oil "meets or exceeds" then oil makers have their in-house engineers look up the specs and match it. No outside labs confirms it.

I was going to say the connector in the glove box may be for a winch remote. But seen that control in one of your pics. So I not sure. My CFMoto had the winch hookup there. Maybe that is the power out for your aux power switch. IDK. Downloaded the manual for your machine from axis website. The screenshot above says the digital readout is for Odometer, Trip, Hours, Clock Screen shot shows a mode button on the left, and set on the right. So I'm just guessing the mode will cycle thru the od9, trip, hrs, etc. Probably a long hold on mode will allow setting the click. Don't know cau see mine is a little different. But if you look under the numbers, the mode should be lit up. Hope this helps.

I've seen people make a frame from aluminum stock. Then go to an actual glass shop and get a windshield made to fit the frame. That is the only think I can think of.

Rainman, Here are some of the posts. Pics included in them. https://www.utvboard.com/topic/13490-coolant-temp-volt-and-oil-pressure-gauge/#comment-53640 https://www.utvboard.com/topic/12598-cooling-fan-not-just-for-radiators/ https://www.utvboard.com/topic/13070-axis-air-box-elimination/ https://www.utvboard.com/topic/9395-2022-axis-same-as-hs500-seat-adjustment/