Greg Kilgore

Reread some of this thread. And aefron88 has already given the answer. Disconnect the U-joint behind the e-brake. Don't see one on above diagram. But will check when I get back home. I love my job, I love my job, I love my job. If I say it enough I just might start believing it. Hasn't happened in over 8 years but tomorrow is another day.

Went for a little ride at night. Best time to have trouble. Was going up a dirt/gravel hill and lost forward motion. Heard a popping/ grinding sound. Looked with a light but couldn't see anything. Could select reverse but same popping/grinding sound. I put the machine in neutral and rolled backwards and turned in a driveway. Put in gear to pull out. Just more popping. Selected 4WD and got the 3-4 miles back home. Once home had wife put in reverse and give a little gas. Discovered the drive shaft was moving in and out of the transmission bout 1/8 to 1/4 inches but not spinning. I posted to a thread already created by another having a similar issue. Then read the next thread and this guy was having the same issue on a 700. So not to hijack a thread decided to make my own. I made a repair request on the axis site for a mobile tech since the closest shop is over 3 hrs away. Will wait for a response before I do any work since this should be covered by the warranty. Just wondering. If I did have to tackle this myself, is there a easy way to get the driveshaft out without having to take the whole rear diff out? Below is a diagram. I'll not be able to do anything to the machine until the weekend since I'm working out of town. Then only have Saturdays to work on it then. If I have to work on it. What would be the easiest way to get the driveshaft out? I've got tools and know how to use them. Just need a starting point. Thanks in advance.

Seen that thread. After I made the above post. Yes I agree. With how mine is acting I'd say 100% same issue. I'm going to start a new thread

Axis 500 2022 made December of 2021 with kinda the same issue but on the reverse end of the rear drive shaft. The transmission side. Earlier today went for a 70ish mile ride. Some thru hill trails but nothing serious. Got back home just fine. Was a warm night for the 1st week on November 69° so wife and I took out for one final night ride of the year. Was going up dirt hill and started making a popping and grinding noise. Had to put in neutral and back down to a driveway to turn around. Wouldn't pull out. Had to kick in the front axle. Drove back home by front axle pulling us 3-4 miles. Once home had wife put it in reverse so I could see what was happening. The driveshaft wasn't spinning. Just moving back and forth about 1/8 of an inch. From diagram looks like part 46 is a coupler also. I don't have a local shop and seen a request form for a mobile tech on the axis website. https://www.axis-offroad.com/service-locator Submitted the for and will see what happens.

Here are 2 pics of my gauges. This one shows fuel tank full. Well has enough gas in tank to register full. This one shows about 1/2 tank. And when the fuel gets really low the little fuel pump icon will flash.

Recommend a brass or non-metal chisel or punch. And a non-metal hammer when trying to get the ring off fuel tank. NO SPARK TOOLS!! Don't want to go BOOM.

Since this is a fairly new machine. I would contact the warranty dept. Explain what's going on. Then see if they can provide a solution or if you are willing to do the repairs. See if they would send you the replacements parts. The speed sensor would provide input for the speedometer and odometer. Then the fuel float provides input for the fuel gauge. If you decide to tackle it yourself. Invest in a good multimeter. And a place to do the work since winter is coming. And of course help from this board. Good luck.

The gauge shows full. I compared this pic with your first pic. Either you haven't rode any since the first pic was taken or the odometer isn't working. Still shows 2 miles.

I did read somewhere on this forum about the float sticking in the tank. To poster said they removed the pump and the float arm was in a bind or something. Once they moved it and reassembled all was good. I know that riding thru the hills and such. Even a pothole or 2 should jar it enough for the arm to bounce. But guess in that post it didn't. Just trying to help.

I can get about 55mph from my 500 honda foreman. Doesn't bog on hills with me and wife. But it doesn't have the weight of body the axis has. I'm almost 300lb and my wife is 1/2 of that 😉. So with passengers and axis body weight, any help in power is a plus.

On My '21 Axis 500. The fill plug on the rear differential is the speedo sensor. The wire connector is on the left side of the differential and the fill plug is on the right. I had to take the wire connector apart before removing the plug. If you don't take connector apart. The wires just twist around each other at sensor/fill plug and will end up mangled.

Winter coming. Think I'll order the injector and install at home. Rather than install out in the field. I'll ohm out the wire also to see if I have any issues. Do you have a good source for such a beast? Do you know the resistance of the coil of the injector? Would a larger injector size give a little more ump aka power to this machine? If so any suggestions? Thanks for the info on how the injector works. I thought it was just a on/off situation thing.

The paint was in there from the factory. Same color. Guess when it was painted the dip the tips or something. See the pics. They're a lot just to get different angles. Took a screw driver and scraped them out on my van hood. Went for a few rides today. 20 minutes, 10 minutes, then a 2.5 hour ride. Seemed OK but I think I'll get an injector just to be safe. Even though it's under warranty. There's no service shop close and the tech from Texas didn't think it was anything with the injector. He was more worried about the filter and a spark plug. One side of the injector wire was pulled tight but not the other. I repositioned the wires to have more slack. This is the"out" end of the fuel filter.

After thinking about it. Don't think it would be a loose wire or connection. Doesn't the wiring just tell the injector when to spray. If a no start situation, then it could be a wire. But it runs fine. Now a faulty injector. One that is about to fail. Or one that may have the sprayer stopped up. That would cause an idle issue. But not sure. Correct me if I'm wrong. I know carbs. I don't know fuel injection. But I did change the fuel filter. It did have what looked like a large paint chip inside the "out" fuel nipple. I'll get a pic and post tomorrow. Took for a little 45 minute ride. Intentionally stopped and started a few times. And all was fine. Took some sound/heat barrier material and placed along the back of the cab. Under the back of seat. Across back of engine and under the other seat. 1 long piece. And that helped block noise inside cab.

Digital dash? Codes? Check engine light? Kinda same issue on 2021 axis 500. Wouldn't idle on its own, only happened that one ride so far. Had code 201 flash on dash. Called tech and he said to change filter and spark plug. Haven't done it yet. Kinda busy. 1. Check injector wiring. 2 Check all wiring. 3. Check ail filter. Could be choking itself out at idle.

Agree with Rev limiter. Possible Disconnected the seat belt connection? Check it for bad connection or broken wire.

I agree, but that is just what the tech said. Haven't had time lately to work on the machine. But have started a few times. Standing outside, just reaching my arm in. It started and idles just fine. I did get stuff for oil change and fuel filter. When I install that I WILL definitely check injector connections. Side note when checking oil before rides. I just remove passenger seat and stick my hand down. Without removing center console. Will have to check wires in that area. Also shouldn't have been anything to do with water. Haven't been Driving on rain or wet conditions. Found out from tech that anything added to exhaust system to try and quieten it down would void warranty. Going to try and make some doors for this winter. If I get the time. Been working in Wayne, NJ just outside NYC.(fun fun) Driving 11 hrs Friday evenings and Sundays doesn't leave much time for anything. I love my job. If I say it enough I might start to believe it. But hasn't happened yet. But I'll try to keep this updated about the 201 code. Still haven't gotten around to making the cable to do the ODB thing yet. Just another thing I have to add to the list of "need to do". Thanks for the reply.

Well called Texas today. Spoke to Paul. He possible filter issue. Since it able to idle later. Recommended a new filter and spark plug just for giggles. Said who knows what could have been put in tank while it was setting on sidewalk at Lowes for who knows how long. So I'm going to replace fuel filter, spark plug, and oil change. 50 hr service. Will also check/trace wiring for injector. And told him if that didn't fix it I'd call back.

Wife and I were on a little 20ish mile ride. Machine was running fine. Stopped at store to get a drink. Inside maybe 10 minutes. Came back out and Axis would not start without giving it gas. Axis would not idle. Had to hold gas to keep idle around 1500. Let off gas and it would die. Restart a few times but didn't turn key off before starting again. Just went from run to start with key switch. So I kept idle around 1500 shifted to H and headed to the house. Dash flashed error code 201. Axis ran fine. Except when we had to turn around. It would die when letting off gas. Started right back up. Got to the house. Let off gas and Axis died when I Let off gas. Turned key switch off. Waited 30 seconds. Started without hitting gas and it idled just fine. Both in neutral and in gear. Thinking it maybe be something with ignition switch. Cause when it would not idle when starting. I did not turn key to off. I just tried to start again. But after I got home and it died. I turned key off waited and it started back and idled just fine. Thoughts, advice?

Glad you got your machine back running. Hopefully the ECU was covered since it was DOA. I'd guess that since the machine was submerged for a minute or two. There may be more electrical issues pop-up from bad sensors. At least the resale value should be higher since your not racking up miles.😁 You may have more relays go in and out or ground issues in the coming future. Could an app and cell phone for speed if needed.

I'll try to make a little video if needed. But YouTube should have plenty of videos on how to use a multi-meter to check ohms.

Double post

I know its an older post. But I agree that it seems like it is a ground issue. If the original poster would post his resolution that would help. But some info on relays and power. And if I wrong it won't be the first time. The relay should supply the positive 12V DC power. To whatever. The ground or negative side should go to a frame ground or back to the battery. Frame grounds are a lot of problems on many many electrical issues on a lot of vehicles. Whether it's a side by side or a 2001 GMC Sierra dash cluster (don't ask) or a 1997 Dodge Dakota dash cluster (ground point under the kick panel on driver and passenger side). Cleaning the ground points or running a ground wire back to the battery should resolve the issue. If the fuel pump and relay is good. But usually there are many circuits feeding off one ground point. So it would be best to follow the ground coming off the fuel pump to make sure the ground point is making good contact to frame. The ground wire can be tested with a multi-meter. 1. Set multi-meter to OHMS. 2. Hold one lead of multi-meter to the other lead of multi-meter. The reading should be 0.0 to maybe 0.2. That will be the reference of the meter and also tells you there is little to no resistance between the leads. 3. Now take the negative side of the fuel pump wire to one lead of the multi-meter. and touch the other lead to a UNPAINTED part of the frame. The reading should be the same or maybe 0.1 more than when you touch the leads of the meter together. If no reading or a very high reading that would indicate a bad connection to ground somewhere and the ground point would need to be cleaned. Hope this info helps you or someone. I'm not responsible if anything unwanted happens while you're testing.

From what I've seen from posts on this site about someone wanting to know what filter to use. When I did a search on this site. The hiflofiltor hf682 filter is concave further with the center hole you use to screw the oil filter on with is a further IN the filter than standard filters are. If this filter will work for his massimo I don't know. I know it works great for the axis 500. And since hisum makes I'm assuming it will. The gasket or o-ring is rounded. But I think the key is the concave. Maybe both concave and rounded gasket.

You can take out the one way bearing. Don't think it will have any ill effect. Other than not holding itself back. From what you stated about your one-way bearing install. Sounds like it was installed backwards. If you decide to reinstall a new one-way bearing. Put it in opposite of the way you did last time. Just a thought.