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Ben1098 last won the day on June 20

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About Ben1098

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  • Birthday 11/30/1948

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  • UTV Brand
    Massimo 500

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  1. The cable "pulls" the lever and thus cams the pads together in the calipers. Reassy with slack in the cable and then adjust (tighter) to no drag at RELEASE and but make sure it will hold on a hill when set before end of pedal travel. After thought...woods riding can snag a cabe and pull the brake tight.
  2. Need more details. Tranny to Neutral. Raise both rear wheels on jack stands. Park brake disc is on diff drive shaft. Have assistant rotate any side rear wheel...open diff....opposite rear wheel will turn in reverse direction. If TRUE, diff is ok. Try to rotate drive shaft, if park brake locked.....NO GO. Have seen master cyl hold pressure to FR and RR locking them up....thus the jackstand test. Lever has stepped rack, button release....problem with release? Cable stuck in sheath? Mechanical brake cam/lever stuck on full pad pressure. Need answers to go forward.
  3. The cam follower's "slipper pad" was the problem in some units I worked on. The cam was ground square but the rubbing pad mating surface was NOT parallel . Result was the valve spec gap went from zero on one side to excessive on the opposite side. Think of a well abused grinding wheel before truing it back up. High contact pressure OR a lubrication problem failure. Check head for blocked oil passages. Seen silicone sealant "goobers" from previous repairs get chopped up in the oil pump only to block off oil passages. Check for above.
  4. Do tests on diff for the 3 positions of the rack block L to R. Do tests on servo motor by switching the dash buttons and watch the pinion gear....should have 3 stops to match the diff rack.
  5. You have more tests to perform: 1. Raise all 4 wheels......jackstands. 2. Remove the servo gear motor assy from the front diff. Leave connectors on. KEY ON Have assistant cycle the buttons on the dash. The pinion gear should should have 3 distinct stops....2WD, "3WD", 4WD. If this works ok....check the diff rack function. 3. The servo motor pinion gear (the 3 stops) drives the rack back and forth for 3 stops. You are going supply the Left to Right to Left motion to the rack "block". Have assistant rotate wheels as you slide the rack thru the 3 positions to get the 2,
  6. Go to Engine Coolant Sensor on top of the head.....will look like a mini spark plug. Single wire. This runs to ECM. The sensor is a special resistor that changes resistance value.....most are NEG....meaning the value goes down as the probe end in the coolant gets hotter....and of course the reverse also for R high at low temp. Test time DVM DC VOLTS. Pull and probe the ECT plug....KEY ON. You should have +5 ish Vdc....source is ECM signal input that has an INTERNAL resister in series to +5 source. The DVM "sips" current....thus NOT A LOAD. Next....DVM R range. N to head bod
  7. Try a simple test....the finger compression test. Remove spark plug. Put it back into cable and lay on clean as on no mud frame gnd....away from engine head. Push finger/thumb over spark plug hole tightly. Have helper crank over engine. Good compression will blow your finger off with a nice POP! Another clue.....everything is installed and crank over engine. You should hear the motor cranking sound change....sorta like a Whop Whop Whop Whop. This is the cranking speed dropping during the compression stroke starter loading then spinning faster during the other 3 phases o
  8. A fast test is just use 2 jumper/clip leads. The signal will be good enough if NOT routed against harness. If miss fire or sputtering, shield the signal wire. Grab some Al foil strip 1/2" wide...wrap length wise....finger roll tight...masking tape here and there and the ends (stay off the ends...no shorts) AND take a 3rd clip lead....attach to foil and a good ground (signal gnd). Shielded cable on the cheap.
  9. Tried again....no answer....try [email protected] Guessing what your question would be: 450 ohm vs 210 ohm coils. Seen both used. The 450 ohm had failure problems..thermal good/bad self healing. Tech info...the output is the real object. Internal construction better magnet and heavier wire/less turns (lower resistance) but gives equal pulse output. Chino service manual...copy of Yamaha Rhino SxS clone copied Yam specs and NOT what was in machine. Pickup coil. Output is signal and signal gnd taken off BOTH ends of the coil windings. Tech.....the pulses due to make/break
  10. Did you send a LA area code phone number. I called 2x from 812 xxx xxxx..no answer nor voice mail...this you
  11. The pickup coil signal wire is shielded due to ECU input can "see" other "trash" like the starter current pulses. You have a smashed cable which shorts signal to GND....this the mohm reading you get. Shielded cable is toast....cut back the cable to leave two (2) pigtails. Connect the open ends....ECM input and the pickup coil output(s). Go to electronics store a buy a chunk of shielded cable...take sample along.....SOLD ER all 4 joints...route new wire run far away from starter HOT and the 3 PH stator to Regulator wires
  12. Do a simple voltage test on the DELPHI ECM.....BLK connector.....as follows: Pin 18......+12 Vdc....Always Hot...Battery Pin 15......+12 Vdc......ONLY with ign key ON. 0 Vdc with key OFF. Also power grounds on BLK Pin 2 and GREY Pin 9.
  13. CVT belt and pulleys have water and clay slop inside. Open up and clean/dry pulleys. May need new belt depending on what the slop was. Blow out all the stuff from Drive and Driven pulleys moving parts.
  14. ECM most likely not getting 12v on BLACK connector at 2 places. Always Hot on p. 18 and also p.15 with KEY ON. Either missing ECM is non working.
  15. Sounds like slop for fuel. pull the fuel pump connector at fuel tank top.......this keeps the slop from loading up the cylinder. Pull spark plug and use a propane or MAPP torch to dry out the insulator tip. Reconnect to the spark plug cable and lay it on the frame away from engine. Have remote starter or helper crank over engine while you give it the finger over spark plug hole compression test....should blow off finger with a POP. Engine oil is cold....cylinder/rings might be dry....wet them by fogging the cylinder with WD40.....more compression???? If not, run the valves and be careful

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