Quantcast
Jump to content

Ben1098

Members
  • Content Count

    16
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Ben1098 last won the day on April 23

Ben1098 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

About Ben1098

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 11/30/1948

Profile Information

  • UTV Brand
    Massimo 500

Recent Profile Visitors

1,986 profile views
  1. Start at the battery + post.......this node will have 3 wires----2 heavy and 1 lighter Ga. Heavy(s) go to starter solenoid and winch contactor (assuming your unit has factory or owner installed wench). The lighter red wire goes to the 30A MAIN fuse and then to a 4 pin connecter. I assume your regulator is mounted under the hood also...frame rail high drivers side.....which go into the harness gathering up multiple pigtails and gets fatter as it heads to the passenger side. Your problem is inside the loom and less than 6' of run. The problem with the RED wire is a blind splice inside the loom with a CRIMP JOINT.....as the +12V ALWAYS HOT goes to the IGN SW also as a branch circuit. Now to rain on your parade-------the crimp is a BAD high resistance connection------it can turn into a meltdown like the regulator connector....BUT A BURN WILL TAKE OUT OTHER WIRES IN THE HARNESS.....Razor blade......careful cuts of the loom sheath......find the node (crimp tie in or "breakout---in cable slang")....strip back the insulation for both wires....scrape/sand/brass brush the wire strands.....I like to then do a twist loop of the branch wire over the main run wire-----solder (rosin core) 60/40 LEAD still the best solder to use if you have old stock. BUT.....lets determine that the RED wire has a problem. Test light stabber type (I used actually 2 of them----one with the standard wimpy light bulb AND one with a Chevy dome light round glass tube bulb----lots of current draw and gets handle hot with use. Connect clamp to - Battery post. Stab the + post......light burns bright. Next stab the MAIN fuse both sides.....should be bright. Next go to the 4 pin connector...bright? Now jump to the RED wire on the Regulator. Should be bright------IF NOT you lost it in the harness. TRICK TIME: Called the shake test.....leave the stabber on the Regulator RED wire and then thump the harness heading back to the battery box on passenger side......light flicker means you are on top of the splice or close. Cut the wire ties (holding the harness) and then FLEX the harness looking at the test light bulb brightness/dim/flicker. BONUS TIPS Rear diff-----VSS is the plug (unplug the connector and then screw out the sensor---don't wind up the leads). Check the fluid level.....IF not serviced correctly most are low from factory.... monkey shops and on line buys skip this one. No need to explain the gore here. Air in cooling system-------you get a hot engine/cold radiator overheat condition.....means you warp head/jug/head gasket leak. Raise the front of SxS at least a foot (12") and fill radiator neck 50/50 mix. Puke jug hint later. Locate the head bleed screw where you would think the thermostat would be (nope---down low by the stator/flywheel) Should be a 8mm hex head.....this bolt is easy to twist off so don't go heavy on the Al sealing washer. CRACK open with engine running......if air in head----bubbles then solid antifreeze. Milk the rubber hoses low in passenger side to BURP-----watch filler neck-----will rise and fall. RUN engine and feel the head (usually the hottest spot) or use a IR temp guy (AKA COVID-19 TESTER). An AIR BLOCK will keep the coolant from flowing. Follow the head coolant connection and check for the AL pipe also getting warmer....Heat should make it to the radiator also.......BURP.......warmer antifreeze will overflow.......IF GOOD...STOP.....ready to purge the puke jug......HINT....follow the hose from filler next to the jug....these hoses like to split. FILL to COLD line plus an extra 50CC for the hose volume. MOTOR OFF......connect the hose back to filler neck and slightly pressurize the jug......object is to fill the hose and remove air bubbles....install radiator cap while slowly "filling the neck".....RUN engine checking temp everywhere------head------Al pipes----radiator top and bottom. Should see a few Deg temp difference thru the system. ELECTRIC COOLING FAN.......common problems No =12V at fan... hot but not running)-------one of 3 problems. Temp switch failure (bottom of radiator).......connector in mud/crust with a bad connection to the 2 lugs..........harness failure of KEY ON +12V open to the thermo switch. The thermo sensor on the head is for the dash. Have KEY ON, test light clip to GND and stab the radiator thermo switch lugs.....one will light (red tracer?) coolant cool....both will light with radiator HOT......Fan should run. TO TEST the circuit for T/S for fault.....a HEAVY paper clip opened up to make a horseshoe shaped jumper wire......KEY ON----jump switch.....fan should run. This means that if the radiator gets hot enough to toggle the thermo switch, the fan will work.
  2. did the above REPLY on load testing the stator make it??????
  3. Be careful with meter readings. Short the test leads together.....most meters will not show 0 ohms. If you start out at say .3 and you have .2 in the circuit, meter will give .5 ohm. Some meters start out NEGATIVE and then subtract from the total like -.2 +.2 will indicate a dead short of 0 ohms. I use a LCR bridge meter with 4 leads to measure low resistances. The real tell is using the L inductance scale. Leg to leg to leg value should be very close (with the following condition---------the flywheel has multiple (of 3 again) magnets glued to the inside of the "drum". The L value will change with the location of the N-S gaps as engine is slowly rotated. Go for the MAX value). If the windings are shorted turns (not burned open-----shorts in the layers of wire build)------the inductance L will be lower by a factor of 10 or greater leg to leg. Perform an at idle OUTPUT test with a 40W to 60W light bulb load. The regulator is unplugged from stator.....the bulb is connected to the stators WHT WHT WHT leads with 3 tests. The bulb will be dimmer when connected to a damaged winding (set/phase pairs). Beauty of this test it is a current draw and not just an unloaded meter voltage reading. Think of a weak battery that handles the headlights of but fails on the 200A + starter draw. BEN
  4. Your stator is a 3 phase "Y" output. The winding "LEGS" are the 3 white wires......call/label them A B C. Look at a parts list to see the stator is a laminated steel ring with a multiple of 3 poles---like 12 or 15. The windings are connected BUT NOT TIED TO GROUND at the starts----thus the schematic Y look. Each leg is wound in series on every 3rd pole and act like stacking a string of batteries in a 5 cell flashlight....except the poles produce AC. The AC output is measured from white to white, white to white, white to white.........A-B, B-C, and C-A. Idle voltage is around 20 VAC leg to leg (3 times). Higher RPM will produce on some systems around 80 VAC.....CAREFULL HERE. The resistance check (here again leg to leg) is thru 2 sets of pole coils.....IN one of the whites----to the center tie point----OUT to the 2 other white wires. Measure A-B, B-C, C-A...... .2 to .3 ohms. Also check for any path to GND....high M ohm scale should be infinite as in open circuit. A 120V/40W light bulb will glow when connected A-B, etc. Some systems will blow the bulb if motor Rs too high Your problem with the melted connector plug was corrosion. The connection resistance will heat up the terminals and with enough heat, melt the nylon connector body......this goes on for a while THEN it goes BAD when the terminals touch.....shorting out the STATOR windings. If opened up, you will find the varnish burned off 2/3 of the 2 legs effected. The coils short down and the resistance check will be sub .1 ohm. Output voltage test will NOT be equal leg to leg also. As an added bonus, the stator will cook off with additional engine run time. I found that the voltage REG will still be good.....burned terminals and all.....most of the time......but die later. The RED wire goes to the + battery terminal. Black goes to GND....- BATTERY POST. Test with a test light to ensure a good connection as in probe to REGULATOR RED wire and clamp to GND AND probe to REGULATOR BLACK wire AND CLAMP TO BATTERY + POST. Voltmeter will lie to you and say a good connection. An example would be BLK test lead to GND......lick finger and touch RED meter lead AND use another finger to touch the + battery terminal.....meter will read 10 to 12 VDC...says you have a good 12V....NOT. BONUS HINT: finding the correct connector and terminals to match the REGULATOR might be tough. FIX is to use a aftermarket RICK's regulator that has pigtails.......cut and strip both stator and regulator wires.....match R and B......the 3 ph whites don't matter...totally random mix when harness was produced and regulator has 3 identical input circuits. TEST STATOR FIRST FOR DAMAGE/FAULTS.
  5. FUEL SYSTEM Your unit is before FI and in-tank 40 PSI electric fuel pump. The diaphragm fuel pump/pressure regulation mini tank set up has some issues. The supplied diagram and routing is good. The pressure required for the carb to accept fuel.....float valve is a nominal 3-4 PSI. The height of the mini tank fuel level above the carb bowl fuel level only gives 1 to 1.5 PSI. This is the pressure regulation of the set up. PROBLEM...."vertical height" difference can be almost nothing when climbing up out of a steep sided creek bank or hill.....runs out of fuel when the demand is the highest.....the level in the mini tank is still the same, it is just the mini tank rotation downward....lower....as the UTV front rises. I have moved the tank up higher.....less lean out popping but looks stupid mounted to the roll cage bar. The Tee at the carb will let most of the fuel just return to the main tank....path of least resistance. That has to go. Now for the pump pressure over powering the carb's float valve....if you have a ring dent in the needle's rubber tip.....the mini tank clears that up. Go back to the mini tank and see if you can live with the above mentioned flaw. Check valve-----foot valve in a water well system-----I found that only one in tank pickup (gumdrop) will flow at the slight draw the fuel pump generates to crack open the check valve. It also had a fine mesh screen to keep grass, weed seeds, etc. out of the fuel intake. Alternate fix.......low pressure adjustable ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP from auto stores O'Reilly's. Connect direct to carb hose barb. With a remote switch, you can drain down carb before shut down AND then refill with "fresh gasoline" for easy starting. Heat soak floods intake (expansion) and as an added bonus, the fuel looses it's POP. used this trick on multiple golf carts that were hard to start. SHIFT PROBLEM. looking at the supplied image, notice the shift linkage adjustable rod....REMOVE one end coupling. The lever bracket attached to the motor (actually the shift cam shaft) can now be pushed/pulled to find the shift point detents. See if the dash gear selected LED matches when pushed into a gear.......checking the shift indicator switch. NOTE: the hard shift-grinding gears can happen if the carb idle speed is set TOO HIGH.....wet clutch is starting to engage. You should have the gears at detent (possible bent shift forks if not)....NOW sync the shift lever to the detents...connect the rod back to bracket at motor. ROD THE RIGHT LENGTH???? You found the adjustments (L and R threads and lock nuts)...find the correct length. SHIFT LEVER moved between RNHL....ALL HIT CORRECTLY???? You can have one end but not the other NOW for the BAD NEWS.....you will find out that you can get one end BUT not the other....ADJUST to the OTHER and the former now does NOT work..............................ANALYSIS of what is WRONG......Shifter lever does NOT have enough travel to get BOTH ends to work. SIMPLE FIX....The shift lever end is TOO SHORT....AND/OR....the motor shift bracket is TOO LONG. Easy to fix......REMOVE the motor shift bracket.....there is a dog leg bend(offset) between the D hole and the ball end. take the bracket and lay it down in bench with the "ball" up. You need to save the dog leg offset SO go closer to the D hole (wider here about 25mm---1"). Take a center punch and mark (dot) close to the bend AND close to the D hole (but not too close for mounting screw and washer)...the punch marks are for the correct reassy of halves AFTER you cut the bracket IN HALF across the wide area. 1/8" to 3/16" with cutoff wheel is removed and then use a wire welder to make it WHOLE again----JUST SHORTER. Bevel the edges, have punch marks on same side as it was before cutting, tack to have a FLAT bracket again, burn it in and trim excess. With the shorter arm on the motor end, the same adjustable linkage rod travel will ROTATE the bracket/shift cam more.......READJUST the rod and should have enough rotation for both ends of gear selection.
  6. T/S to the basics required for motor to run SPARK at CORRECT TIME FUEL/AIR MIX COMPRESSION SPARK PLUG------pull spark plug.....check plug condition at electrode.....looking for WET, SOOTY BLACK---all bad. Want a dark TAN electrode insulator color. A FOULED plug or internal damage will not let the spark jump the electrode gap....NO RUN. SPARK TEST.....plug out......You want a NEW plug if any question of condition.....this will create an ignition source (spark) for any fuel spills, loaded cylinder what blows a spray of raw gas---very exciting, etc. Pull the ignition coil low side primary connector. Spin over engine and check for blowing fuel. If mess, blow off fuel with air hose and blow into the spark plug hole also. Vent out fumes from shop. Actual spark test-----reconnect the ignition coil connector. Put known good spark plug in cap and place plug on metal frame or engine case. Spin over the motor....2 things happen......hiss of air thru spark plug hole AND the snap of the spark arc. Now put finger over the spark plug hole like using a thumb on a garden hose. on the COMPRESSION stroke, the escaping air will "blow off" your finger if engine mechanicals solid. Should have a nice POP. The spark should fire at this time......about 8-12 Deg. BEFORE the piston hits TDC on Compression stroke. If you have the above conditions go to next test. COMPRESSION-----finger pop test is a quick and dirty check. It takes air to make air....open the throttle to allow air into the intake unrestricted. Use of a compression tester is needed to get a hard number like 120 PSI or better. Not a testers are created equal......use one that has the valve core in the spark plug hole screw in end. use of a hose extension will lower the compression value indicated. Also engines with auto compression releases will be lower also. use manual spec'd value in these cases. Other causes for low compression....valve adjustment clearance too tight. Carbon under valve face/seat. Burnt exhaust valve. "birds beak" plasma gas jet erosion of valve face. Worn out cyl/rings. Cam chain jumped timing or broke (mechanical problems) FUEL/AIR MIX---------For the problem of run/no run depending throttle setting: CARB....shut off fuel to carb......drain bowl......you will manually supply the fuel later THROTTLE BODY......you are FI so disconnect the fuel pump connecter UNDER the Pass side seat. Lift out the seat.....fuel tank is right there.....remove clip and then part the connector halves....result on new fuel introduced for testing. FUEL TEST--------everything from above reinstalled, spin over engine...should NOT run but might if raw gas is in air box. here is where you supply the fuel to the air intake....starter fluid short bursts.....if engine fires and runs then dies after a few seconds after the fluid runs out, give another burst.....runs....dies...do again but then try to time the bursts to keep running for at least 10 seconds. If it works with the starter fluid boost.....you have a fuel problem. The problem could be any of the following: Fuel delivery supplier mixed DIESEL and GASOLINE in tank Corn gas has too much water added and syrup won't burn----phase separation Water in fuel tank....rain or flood water or pressure wash tank vent. Low fuel pump pressure-----40 to 45 PSI normal for these FI systems Fuel filter got water in it or sediment clogged ANY CONDITION FOR FUEL CONTAMINATION......start with draining the fuel tank....have to go thru the fuel pump lid and lock ring which may be too much or more than you want to tackle. Basically the tank drained, fuel pump drained, lines drained between fuel pump and injector. REFILL with new gas NON-CORN (recreational gas) is best to run anyways for these machines. Cycle pump to fill lines all the way to the injector body....pull injector and crank engine (KILL SPARK) and look as spray mist as injector fills and then fires....bad spray sometimes means a new injector after everything else is cleaned up. Try above----post back findings
  7. the small hose from the carb body goes into the bowl space-----atmospheric vent. they will get bugs nests or dirt, water, and then reduces the fuel flow thru the FUEL JETS. There are AIR JETS (sometimes well hidden beneath the diaphragm porting on CV carbs) that draw air (clean air box air) into a junction within the carb body cavities TO the MAIN and IDLE fuel jets extending (aspiration) into the bowl fuel. these "air flows" are separate from the full bore and throttle plate stream of intake air. the fuel is effectively drawn into the bore with an entrance at the main jet brass nozzle and a small hole(s) south of the throttle plate or slide (depends on carb type). simple way to think about the vent......you have to let air in when sucking the soda out of a bottle. same goes for the fuel tank has to be vented....be it a simple hole in cap of a full blown EVAP system.....air in for fuel drawn off. some machines run this hose (usually bigger because air has flow resistance) to a frame cavity.....think mice, mud dobbers, backwater floating trash etc. you can change the carb 50 times...still a dog in the pile. you might want to raise the end to a protected area but still have the loop end DOWN to avoid water flowing in. The bigger hose from the crankcase PCV feeds oil vapor and blow by fumes to be reburned by routing into the airbox....thus the oil mess on filter. EVAP canister gas tank fumes are also gated back to be reburned......that is why overflow carb----gassy oil will also cook off and screw up the F/A mixture. Might as well cover the 3rd fuel/air circuit on carbs that DO NOT have a choke butterfly......that gags extra fuel from main and idle jets. these will have a second cable to carb or a linkage on multi carb setups. the basic function is to open an air passage (calibrated drilled hole) by lifting a slide (6mm dia or so.) off a seat and also pull the extended pin out of the fuel jets passage.....have a flow of air sucking metered fuel into a larger hole directly in to the side of the bore throat. mis routing of the choke cable can open the enrichment circuit (choke) when turning handlebars and then be fine on straights.......H way back bad for this....plug a day habit!!!!!! That's the short of it. chow
  8. that 'll do it. trash may have just moved out from under the needle in seat....meaning the problem could come back again. the suggestion about flooding the engine oil with raw gas needs to be checked. gassy smell test and or over full on dipstick. besides cutting the oil, you will have a rich fuel/air mix when the gas cooks off and is reingested by the crankcase vent PCV system.
  9. need more info on the stumble. cold start up......runs ok at idle BUT A. stumble when the throttle is opened slowly OR B. stumble when the throttle is rapidly opened C. stumble with both A and B. engine warm start up.....the stumble problem goes away or greatly improves???? Now you need to determine if it is a LEAN stumble OR a RICH stumble......simply give a squirt of starter fluid at intake. depending on where you introduce the fumes, there is a delay before the rich mix makes it into the cylinder. Does the motor run easier as in no longer struggling at idle. Get a feel for how the starter fluid boost reacts THEN have someone SLOWLY open the throttle and also try the FASTER throttle blip when the fluid boost comes on. analysis of results......a lean stumble will improve with warmer engine temps. a lean stumble will go away or improve with the boost of fuel introduced into the intake. Side NOTE. 10%, 15%, 20% alcohol gas will have these problems on carb engines set up of OFF ROAD (0%) fuel.....required a rejet tune. ALSO.........some dealers are blending in WATER until phase separation.....then add more OH to get the water back into solution. This trick is really bad for the scooter crowd.
  10. Your Reg/Rect should have 5 wires. 2 are AC input from stator........both G/W.....measure resistance (at R/R connector) of stator windings=.3 ohm ish----depends on meter. Next perform a stator output load test....connect a 40W incandescent to the same wires at the R/R connector....start motor....should glow dim then brighter with higher RPMs.....don't rev until bulb burns out........shut engine down. The next 3 tests check the current carrying capacity of the wires/connections. A "load test" rather than a meter test will better identify the fault. The load is a 12V headlight bulb with a rated current draw of 5 plus Amps......85/85W motorcycle headlight bulb works great. Put 2 leads on the good filament terminals. Test by connecting to the UTV battery.....note brightness. Leave NEG (-) wire clipped to battery NEG (-) post for next 2 tests. BR wire is dead with KEY OFF and 12V with KEY ON......might notice a slight dimming due to extra wire and fuse resistance in the harness. WHT wire has only the fuse back to POS (+) battery post.......bulb should burn slightly brighter....no run to the IGN SW. BLK/YEL is ground.......frame and battery (-) post. SO REMOVE BULB CLIP FROM NEG AND CLIP TO POS POST. Now the test is looking for a path back to the NEG post. Touch NEG Post....bright. Touch frame....bright. Touch starter motor case....bright. Touch the engine case....bright. Touch WHT wire terminal in R/R connector...........BRIGHT. Most common failure is the BLK/YEL ground to harness.....bullet connector. The starter current GND wire (heavy) suffers from electro corrosion......i.e. the steel bolt in the AL case at starter mount.
  11. you most likely have an intermittent connection between reg and battery. the reg can only handle a few open full load dumps before the electronics die. retest connections to battery and ign sw (key ON). old trick.......jumper in second wire in parallel with the 3 wires mentioned......if lives longer than 30 min.....you won...but need to find the bad connection
  12. stator has good output.....PLS solder the cut wires and get rid of the butt splices....trouble down the road. Go to REG/RECT connector. Chase the 3 wires that are not A1 and A2 stator inputs. G wire (according to the ohm test) would be the battery + terminal. B wire would be the battery - terminal. you need good connections from end to end to pass the charging current....same went for the stator powering the light bulb. find an old headlight with one good filament intact. Put on leads and touch to the battery posts.....should burn bright. Do same for B and G at the REG/RECT connector.......this tests the current carry capacity of the harness....5A or so....to pass the reg output to charge the battery.....should burn very close to same brightness.....there is some wire losses in the harness wires. If bright....AOK Next the M wire.....I asked of it went to the IGN sw ON terminal...IF it does, it should be open OFF and +12V (battery) with key ON. This voltage is required for the REG section of the module. TEST AND REPLY BACK
  13. how did the alt output test go? Both the low R value of .2 ohm or so AND the 40 W light bulb load test running motor. I hate the old Kaw manuals that use a meter using ohms for a test for electronic modules......the reading is with the OEM Kaw meter...others will give different readings. Best bet is to use a meter with a DIODE function. This setting pumps 1 ma of current to check the FRONT to BACK ratio of the diode......that is .5 to .6 V in the forward direction and OPEN (OL) in the reverse direction. There will be 4 diodes....not 6......in this regulator with SCRs for the voltage output control. The rectifier diodes need to be tested both FORWARD and REVERSE = 8 tests. you should find A1 has 2 FRW (.5 v) connections BUT they will have the leads reversed. Same goes for A2 input......In a nut shell, the A connection(s) has a POS and NEG diode EACH. 3 phase units will have 6 diodes with +/- diodes to the 3 YEL-YEL-YEL inputs from the alt. Look in a Honda manual for the internal components if interested. 1. Test as such Meter RED + lead to A1. Meter BLACK - to the B (this goes to the BATTERY?)....this would be Forward with .5 v drop across the diode. Next interchange the RED / Black leads. Note what the display has with the meter leads open....you should see the same display when connected this time. Repeat for A2 FR / BK and get same .5 v /open. 2. Next do the A1 and A2 to G wire in the connecter......results should be opposite as these are the NEG diodes this time. Where does the M wire go....my guess it is switched +12vdc.....that is nothing VOLTS and then =12V (battery voltage) with KEY ON. if it does what I guess its for.....this gives the loaded system voltage and works better than using the ground as a charge reference....think voltage drop in the Gnd wiring length of wire.
  14. TRY THIS TEST connect a 40W light bulb (incandescent...not LED) across the output legs of the alt.....unloaded voltage might be 40 Vac BUT if windings have bad connections, the output voltage will be well below the 15Vac needed to forward bias the rectifier diodes...... .5 to .6 Vdc PLUS the battery voltage. if alt output is OK, the bulb should glow dimly and get brighter as RPM is increased. confirm alt output good before rectifier testing. print from manual too small to read....but gathered you have a single phase (2 wire.....A1 and A2). If replying back also show the schematic for the alt. windings and the .3-.4 ohm winding resistance...go back to the cut crimp (very bad idea on high current applications.....solder back in place.
  15. TIP: Running the motor for short times will foul the spark plugs.....the ECM is mapping the cold start-up and will have a rich fuel mix....Run long enough to get some heat into the plug to self clean. Repeated short run times can kill the plug. some T/S tips----you have an apparent rich F/A mixture OR the unburned fuel is wetting down the plug. The problem appeared gradually....start with the air filter. Pull shift and cover...debris on filter and or blocked intake (as in mouse house)...clean and reinstall. Check for air leaks downstream....a LEAN mixture will not light off BUT can wet down the plug. The above REPLY was the air vent for the fuel tank....they used be to routed into the intake runner...newer units have the hose elevated behind the pass seat. If removed from intake, PLUG off the connection...dowel pins work good. Start with new plug or known good unit. Leave the cylinder open for now. Remove all fuel sources.....to prevent over fueling....pull fuel pump connector---no more pump whirl sound on KEY ON and carefully pull the injector electrical connector...no fuel from residual fuel pressure. Spin over the motor for 5 seconds. Install the spark plug now. Spin over again....should not start. Starter fluid....pop in a 1/2 second burst into the intake and crank. Motor should fire and run for a couple seconds....try again to be sure the only fuel source is the go juice. Reconnect the fuel pump (no injector yet)....crank...should be a no start. Time for some starter fluid again....runs again and dies (good so far). Reconnect the injector. Key on (pump pressure build up). should run now. IF NOT OR RUNS POORLY or LUMPY...fuel system problem, ECM, and or ECM inputs. Possible problems: Most common in order BAD E10 fuel....phase separation, older than 3 weeks, moisture droplets. Drain and purge system. Best to get the NON-ethanol fuel as the rubber parts will last longer also. Fuel pump problem---need around 45 PSI Blocked injector----will dribble fuel...can pull injector and check spray mist. O2 sensor failure----pull the connector...if runs better (NO INPUT SIGNAL---thus ECM defaults to a "safe" limp mode).....have also seen the +12v heater problem (too cold to work)...heater OPEN or an intermittent short to frame (like the exhaust sheet metal burr edge). Harness failure in connector or the butt splices hidden in the trunk. ECM failure. Try these tips


×
×
  • Create New...