Quantcast
Jump to content

Ben1098

Members
  • Content Count

    36
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Ben1098 last won the day on December 21 2020

Ben1098 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

About Ben1098

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 11/30/1948

Profile Information

  • UTV Brand
    Massimo 500

Recent Profile Visitors

2,172 profile views
  1. ECM most likely not getting 12v on BLACK connector at 2 places. Always Hot on p. 18 and also p.15 with KEY ON. Either missing ECM is non working.
  2. Sounds like slop for fuel. pull the fuel pump connector at fuel tank top.......this keeps the slop from loading up the cylinder. Pull spark plug and use a propane or MAPP torch to dry out the insulator tip. Reconnect to the spark plug cable and lay it on the frame away from engine. Have remote starter or helper crank over engine while you give it the finger over spark plug hole compression test....should blow off finger with a POP. Engine oil is cold....cylinder/rings might be dry....wet them by fogging the cylinder with WD40.....more compression???? If not, run the valves and be careful
  3. I bought an almost NEW swimmer....drunk fishing buds went to river....to not get a DWI....left MASSY at river....best part....left keys in the ignition....river sandbar recovery. Hoped for best with this pig in a poke. Sanded piston/cyl. Crank bearings "rough". Even the transmission bearings had multiple bind spots. New oil pump. Still money ahead. The rear output shaft was leaking BEFORE the swim by the oil slick on present.....BTW, watch this very close....sealant gets hard and leaks not at the seal BUT thru the spline...NICE. That was 4 years ago....keep the oil level up and CLEAN
  4. The seat rear has 3 molded plastic "fingers" that go under the 8mm rod bent/formed to make a "receiver" to hold the rear of the seat. Past problems were the rod was deformed (motor drop in????)....just straighten back out to gain the req'd clearance. Once the bent rod receiver was "off location" rubbed on the side instead of the top. This fix uses a flap wheel to GENTLY trim the offending plastic finger. If still not finding the problem, measure the 3 finger L-R locations....compare to the welded receiver rod openings. Further, measure the top-bottom thickness and make a stack of pop sick
  5. Find the Delphi ECM. Should have 2 connectors----gray and black. There are two +12vdc inputs. One (pin 18) is ALWAYS HOT (like memory on radio) and then the other(pin 15) is hot only with KEY ON. Don't have ECM pin out handy so I can't state which color connector. With KEY OFF, remove both connectors (identical except color) and find the fine print molded pin numbers. KEY ON. Needle probe (don't stab and ruin the terminal) the pin(s) number looking for the 2 +12v inputs. After finding, KEY OFF to see if pin 15 goes away (check to see if you are in the right track). Problems found in p
  6. Travis.....just read starter tale of woe. The 2nd starter (CHINO) had an internal open circuit i.e. the brushes or armature. Older starters did not have stopper brush holders, and as the brushes wore down (and spring tension less), the Cu braid cable would burn a trench in the commutator Cu bars....no fix except to have the armature rebuilt. Newer starter brush plates have the stopper and then after wearing down to where the brushes Cu braided wire hit the stopper bar, end up having a poor contact connection....new (full length) brushes, clean armature, and good to go. Tapping will "fix" i
  7. DIFF problem....you will have 2 connectors...one to switch power + to - and - to +......this runs the small electric DC motor that slides the rack (behind/under the black round shift servo) from left to right to left. There are 3 positions.....2 WD, "3 WD" which is an open diff where if front end is lifted, the wheels rotate in opposite directions (with drive shaft locked) and then 4WD which locks BOTH fronts together. Someone in the past has shifted into 4WD UNDER LOAD (and moving)....SNAP CRACKLE POP with emphasis on the POP. DO the rack test (remove the black shift module....bolts here..
  8. Travis was on the right track. You have a strong running engine after you get it to start. The split vac hose was just a bump in the middle of the search, right? Carb/fuel problems will generate runability problems before and after starting. Bad connections, weak battery, parasitic drain, burned solenoid contacts, worn starter brushes reduce the power delivered and used to crank it over. Travis test of pulling spark plug...you said the motor spins over just fine with the spark plug removed......no load except friction and valve spring loading. You video was the TELL. Compression release
  9. Sorry, I forgot to mention that a shorted Regulator can overheat and burn off the insulation on the stator winding coils....usually takes out every 1/3 pole piece around the clock as it is a 3 Phase system. Do a resistance test on the Y-Y-Y pigtail (regulator disconnected). R = .3 ohm Y to Y (3 times). If all 3 R readings are close, do a load test to mimic what the stator windings have to do in real life. Test with engine running----no load VOLTAGE will be 25-30 VAC at idle and up to 80 or so at 4000 RPM. LOAD TEST involves drawing current (POWER) off the 3 Y-Y stator pigtail leads. I li
  10. You toasted the regulator.....NO CHARGE......motor running charge test voltage will be sitting at the battery's present terminal voltage......discharged say to 11.7v. The regulator is a shunt type------dumps EXCESS voltage, thus current to GND. The stator and the rectifier/regulator's output is "puny" compared to a light trucks RUNNING (100A area) alternator and 800 CCA battery. NEVER hook up to a smaller system EVEN right after pulling into location to give a jump as the host battery is still at 13.6Vv to 14.2V after shutting down engine. The poor regulator is trying to HOLD it's setpoin
  11. B & S VANGUARD ignition problem. YES, same old magneto coil design from way back....no need for a battery to supply the coil current...the flywheel magnet rotating thru the mag coil "legs" is the power source. The mag coil has a low turns PRIMARY and a high turns HV output to the spark plug. 60's type lawnmowers used mechanical points (mounted to engine case I.e. GND) located under the flywheel that opened the primary coil circuit as the piston approached TDC-----8 deg BTDC. This same coil lead went to a condenser AND the throttle activated kill switch....before that a lever switc
  12. Pull the connector to the fuel pump.......cannot dump loads of fuel then. DO the starter fluid runability test where you supply all the fuel by little squirts of the go juice on the air filter in the air box. Your unit is FI, therefore NO CHOKE. The original HISUN were carb models then changed to FI. The CHOKE function is now ELECTRONIC which is controlled by input signals from O2 sensor, Engine coolant temp thermistor, Mass air flow and intake air temp along with Throttle position sensor to determine engine load and thus the amount of fuel required for the demand. With the fuel pump
  13. Ech!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That's a bummer........had some impossible to service units. Hang in there when getting around to do the tests.
  14. DIODE LEAK......Can be just like a water well foot valve (one-way WATER valve) but instead of water leaking off, electrons (i.e. current) flows backwards thru the diode. They both pass in one (1) direction and restrict flow in the reverse direction. Get sand into a foot valve, water will leak back and loose prime at the well pump......slow leak. Over time the sand leak will cut the gasket resulting in a BIGGER leak. Now the diode......good one passes current (according to the band marking) in one direction WITH a small drop in voltage (0.60V)....thus 12.6v will be 12.0v after going thru th
  15. I'll try again........4 stroke V-twin with probably a 90 deg angle between cylinders. 2 rotations of the crankshaft for INTAKE, COMPRESSION, POWER, and EXHAUST. Cam runs at 1/2 speed (2 crank rotations per single rotation of the cam).......therefore, you will have the magnet rotate under the dual mag coils TWICE for each cycle. Timing of the SPARK is req'd around 8 deg BTDC on the COMPRESSION stroke. A single cylinder engine has 1 mag coil and 1 set of "points" (mechanical or electronic switch). The Vanguard has 2 mag coils BUT only 1 electronic switch....that opens and closes in time wit

×
×
  • Create New...