Quantcast
Jump to content

Coleman 2022 UT 400 radiator thermo switch replacement question


Go to solution Solved by aefron88,

Recommended Posts

Mine is overheated/burned/melt at connection with its wire connector, parts are ordered to replace both them.  This seems to be a common issue, and some of you already replaced it. I right now just connect the wires, so the fan runs  all the time whenever the initiation is on, but it's better let fan runs as needed with a working temperature sensor/switch. 

Question: Does some coolant come out by removing the switch/sensor from radiator?  Or, is the threaded hole all the way inside radiator?   If the answer is yes,  I want to drain or extract  some coolant to make its level below the sensor before replacing it, so I don't make a mess with coolant spilled out 

Thank you.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • moonrover changed the title to Coleman 2022 UT 400 radiator thermo switch replacement question
  • Solution

Normally yes it touches coolant and you'll need to drain below that level and refill after replacement.

When you refill the radiator, these things can be a bear to bleed all the air from the cooling system. Any air left will lead to more overheating issues. There's a plug on the right side of the engine where the rad hose goes in that you can partially loosen while running to help bleed air.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you, aefron88.

My ordered  switch came today, and I installed it. Before I installed it, I extracted the coolant through top radiator with the pipe reach its bottom. Only about 200 cc came out, so when I removed old switch, almost no coolant came out from there. After I installed the new one, I poured back the extracted coolant through top of radiator. 

I'll test runs to see if fan runs when engine/coolant  is hot enough ( I believe at least 75 C), and also if overheat happens due to air in the system and requires bleeding.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I replaced mine with an adjustable switch.We tested oem and it did not engage fan   til over 230 degrees F. This is why it blew headgaskets and the heat in the cab was unbearable.Set new switch to come on at 180 *F. Cab is much cooler and no more boil overs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By hdtran
      It's not immediately obvious to me how to wire a remote control (wired or wireless) on the Sector E1.
      Has anyone here done this? Do you have pictures on how to get to the wiring?
      Thanks!
    • By Greg Kilgore
      I would really like to know what you guys think about this. I'll try not to ramble and make it as clear as I can.
       
      I took this new job with companyX as a fiber splicer a year ago. I have a 45' bucket truck and 10or12 x 8 ft enclosed splice trailer I have to take home. Within the last 6 months all the management in the splice dept left. Now the power/construction management and higher ups are filling in. Just recently we were told travel to our 1st job is not payable even though we are in a company vehicle. 
      We are union so I asked the union business manager about this. His reply was be grateful you were paid travel as long as you were and that you don't have to drive your POV to the job.
       
      Last week I had 50hr total. The job area is 4-4.5 hrs away. My time was reduced to 44.5 hrs since we were told this travel thing on Tuesday of that week. I wasn't hired for this area. I was hired for area a lot closer to home. 
       
      Pay is good. Work is not hard. Insurance is through the union and so far pretty good.
      But I hate the thought of having to work extra just to make a 40hr paycheck. Anyone who has to drive as part of their job knows windshield time is not easy.
       
      Anyway what do you guys think. Should I look for a different job or just suck it up because of the decent pay and health insurance.
    • By BuggyBoy
      Hi, 
      I'm in Australia and need to replace the footbrake pads and cable (weak point if you ask me, bad design), plus might as well get the main brakes done at the same time.
      Anyone know an Aus dealer, or, know the parts number or equivalent in the petrol version?
      Cheers.
    • By doncaron
      Hello 
      I have a 2022 Massimo t-boss 550. I’m looking for a fix for my timing problem. It keeps getting out of timing. Now I’m trying to find the proper parts for the linhai motor. I’m looking for tensioner chain and gear. If there’s anything else I can do to fix this issue please let me know. Unfortunately I can’t afford to get something better so I got to get it fixed. Thanks in advance. 
      Don
    • By Steve B
      My "R" light on the dash will not go out when I take the UTV out of reverse and put it into any other gear. Is this just the light switch issue or will this effect engine performance in the other gears?
×
×
  • Create New...