Rainman

On 4/13/2024 at 3:55 PM, Alex said:

We use google auto ads which injects ads in odd places sometimes. We'll have a look.

Yes, please see what you can do. Now, ads are popping up on top of posts and I cannot shut them down, so I can't even read certain posts. I click on the X in the corner and the ad changes with an arrow in the opposite corner. I click on the arrow and the previous as appears.

Not sure what year your machines are, but mine is a 2021 UT400 and I had to replace the ignition switch. I bought mine on eBay and it took me a while to match up the exact design, as there are many switches out there, whereas the design seems to change in different years.

One note is, the bolts that came with the new one I purchased were too short, so I had to use the old bolts to attach the switch to the column. I also had to solder the connector from the old switch onto the new switch, which was one of the main problems in finding an exact match. The switch, in my case, fit perfect, but I couldn't find one with the correct connector, but got it to work just fine, as long as the wiring was the same.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/374582547172

Hope this helps.

9 hours ago, Travis said:

My firefox has an adblocker, i don't have any issues.

Mine does too, but that's only for popup ads. The problem I am having is the message board slide up or down ads right within the utvboard that take up about a third or more of my screen.

Here is an example, whereas there is a small post and two huge PDF ads above and below. At times, there are more ads than posts on my screen.

11 hours ago, aefron88 said:

Synthetic vs conventional has nothing to do with clutch slippage. The clutch slip is caused by viscosity modifiers used in "Energy Conserving" oils (you'll see that with the API Starburst ratings).

JASO MA rated oils are designed to work properly with wet clutches used in Japanese bikes, as well as ATV/UTVs etc that use wet clutches.

Do not use a non JASO-MA rated oil unless you can confirm it is wet clutch safe, and afaik the only common non MA rated oil that is ok is Rotella.

Yes, and that was my confusion. The manual, from what I've seen, only states JASO-MA, but doesn't mention whether the oil should be synthetic or not.

I contacted a few guys who made videos on the Coleman UT400 and one stated he uses "regular motorcycle oil". Another just said he uses only "regular oil" because he also heard synthetic can cause slippage, but didn't mention if that regular oil he uses was JASO-MA or not.

The third guy I spoke to, who owns a repair shop stated the following: "As far as clutch slippage , you don't have to worry about that from the oil, being that these units come with CVT, no oil ever touches the clutch. And I don't see any reason full synthetic would harm this engine in any way. However that being said I do know that full synthetic oil in older Harley Davidsons have caused cams to spin inside the bearings creating a flat spot in the bearing. I do not see that happening to these units."

So with that said, I'm guessing that as long as it is a JASO-MA rated oil, it doesn't matter?

On 10/6/2023 at 11:44 PM, Greg Kilgore said:

And I think the synthetic lets the clutch slip more than conventional. If there is a lot of miles on the clutch with conventional oil. Then switched to synthetic. The clutch is more likely to slip.

Not sure I understand your statement as to slippage. That is, which type oil is best, as to which conventional or synthetic may cause slippage.

I'm doing my first oil change and want to make sure I get the correct type. Coleman and Massimo both have available the JASO MA oil 10W40, but both of which are synthetic. Is that what I need to use?

Hey Admins - What's with all the advertisements lately? This is so bad that it seems there are more ads than posts and I find it hard to follow a post because of all the ads slipping in between each post or they're taking up space above or below posts on my screen. It's a little too much and pushing me not to be here anymore. I loved being here and communicating with others, but finding it very hard to follow posts with these ads jumping in and out all the time on each page. Please fix this and thank you!

On 3/9/2024 at 3:15 PM, Richard shepard said:

I have a 2021 colman 400utv engine will start and idle, as soon as you hit throttle to move engine dies and will only start when you throttle it, let off throttle it dies, I replaced the injector and plug still the same, anyone have any other ideas

Did you try and replace the fuel filter? Also, what type of of are you using, as ethanol I believe can clog things up and non-ethanol is recommended.

I also have a 2021 ut400 and had running issues a little different than yours, but in my case I had water in the gas tank. Once cleaned out, problem solved. The problem I was having was that it was hard to start and when started, unless it was totally warmed up, if I stepped on the gas it would stall.

Definitely sounds like a fuel issue ...

On 3/3/2024 at 9:18 PM, lonesome_spud said:

Thanks for the help.  I watched the video.  It did not help my situation.  I bought mine used.  The steering column box is not secured and I am trying to figure out how it is done.  I was thinking maybe it was part of the assembly, but it looks like that assembly should have been done at the factory, vs being done at Tractor Supply Company.

 

If you can, post a picture or video of the area that seems like it's not secure and hopefully someone can send a picture of that same area on their rig for you to compare.

Not sure if this will help, as here are posts for the UT400, but lately with all the advertising on this blog, I find it hard to read anything anymore. I found the plug on mine under the seat,

Try here:

On 3/7/2024 at 10:52 AM, Greg Kilgore said:

I did buy the cable and downloaded the program. I just haven't had time tinker with it. It's running fine. Got the thing paid off last month. Have over 2500 miles on it. Kinda acts like the CVT belt needs a little love. (When it gets a little warmer outside). Other than the rear drive shaft issue I had last year and the fuel filter. Have done nothing except change oil and added fuel. 

 

I did add a few things that I just wanted to. LED lightbar, temp gauge, volt gauge, dual overhead cab fans (going to downsize to just one).

Have some things left to add/make/move. Like doors, heater to install(got it just need to find time), oil pressure gauge(got it just need find time) upgrade the charging system, move air intake to under hood, sound deadening under center console. Windshield wipers got one but it's a POS manual. Going to add a power one. Sound system. Whip lights. I'm tired just listing and thinking about it. 😂

Then maybe a shim to get a little more power and then the computer thing.

By them will probably need tires. 😂

Sorry to ramble. But if I do mess with the computer I'll post and ask a ton of questions.

 

Y'all be careful and have fun.

 

Wow, I'm still trying to get to my first oil change, with just under 20 hours and I think still under 30 miles on the machine. I did more idling than driving, I guess. I read some place the first oil change should be 10 hours or 100 miles, so I'm over with one but well under the other.

If you get a chance, post some pictures of your upgrades.

Have a great day ...

23 hours ago, aefron88 said:

There's no choke on the newer hisun/coleman UTV's. They are fuel injected. The older ones were carberauted, not sure what year they switched maybe 2015-2017ish?. The older coleman branded manual incorrectly shows a choke lever on the dash, as well as some other antiquated info.

Cold start issues could be a bunch of things, I would start with valves and plug (they're right there together), move on to fuel, fuel filter, and injector, and if still having issues I would check the ECT sensor. I have heard of some failing. If the ECU thinks the engine is warm it will not inject the extra fuel required for a cold start. In the downloads section of this site there is a fairly comprehensive factory service manual for these available.

All my starting and running issues funneled down to water in the gas tank. Got that all cleaned out and so far, all is well and running real good.

5 minutes ago, NewtoUTV said:

I adjusted the cable, it took me a few tries also.  But seams to be working good now, hope it last.

After I did the modification it seemed that the recommended adjustment procedure didn't work properly. So I winged a readjustment and it worked good for a short period of time then after a while I was having slight grinding again, but not as bad.

Adjusted it again and all was well, but then recently it seemed seemed to have a loud bang, as if it had totally slipped out of gear, but it was still in, which was strange. I was concerned there were some internal issues, but noticed that the shifter was hitting up against the upper part of the bezel and possibly not going all the way into forward gear.

I adjusted it one more turn and it is now doing good so far, plus I seem to have a hair more space between the top of the bezel and the shifter rod, so we will see. It may need another adjustment along the way, but all-in-all, the modification does seem to be helping and does make me feel a little more confident.

1 hour ago, lonesome_spud said:

I am looking for assembly instructions for a Coleman UT400.  Appreciate any help.

This guy assembled his and may be able to help you. You can contact him via YouTube.
 

28 minutes ago, that guy from Canada said:

^^^^ check that first ^^^^

I would almost consider a new coil and the often overlooked spark plug cap.

Also as a 4 stroke it wont hurt it to try one hotter heat range plug.

Ex: dpr7ea use dpr6ea lower number is hotter

Interesting ... as I am not too familiar with UTVs, which is part of my problem in trying to fix anything with it, and I didn't know they had a spark plug cap (unless I'm thinking of a distributor cap) and wasn't even thinking of the coil. I have the same year and model as you (2021 UTV 400) and have found limited information on doing repairs.

I'm old school and grew up working on vehicles with spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, points, rotors, carburetor, etc. Now with my 2019 truck, whereas everything under the hood is electronic and covered with plastic covers, I'm totally lost.

Looking at the UTV, for me, it's a totally new animal and I can't figure which way is up with this thing, but I'm relearning as I go along.

Going back to old school, carbon fouling is usually a symptom of a fuel problem. If you have verified no water in the gas, then it could be fuel/air mixture, but you should have injectors, and the fuel/air mixture I believe is controlled by the ECU and you reset that. Try checking your air filter to make sure it's clean and installed properly. I remember reading some place that these rigs came out of the factory, in many instances, with the air filters installed backwards, which had caused some problems. Also check your idle speed to make sure it's not idling too low, although I think it would take a while to foul the plug with a low idle.

If I think of anything else I will surely forward it to you ...

11 hours ago, Bobby Courtney said:

I have a 2021 Coleman 400utv with 60 miles on it. I bought as project. It’s idled ruff and fouled plugs since it was new. I have removed and cleaned throttle body new injector new idle air valve new oxygen sensor. Installed ngk iridium plug. Starts and run good for about 5 or 6 miles and fouls plug. It runs rich all the time. I’ve done reset on ecu. I’m about to think it’s time to try a new ecu. Anyone please help. 

I had a similar problem. With mine, which has under 30 miles and under 20 hours on it, It was hard to start, ran rough, and until it was warmed up, if I gave it gas I would hear a pop and it would stall. The plug was carbon fouled, as well as the oxygen sensor and the tailpipe was loaded with carbon buildup. Cleaned it all up and did the same thing with replacing the spark plug and the problem came back within an hour or two.

Took it to my mechanic and after four days he said the gas tank had lots of water in it and that was the problem. He cleaned the tank, put fresh gas in it and so far, it's running like a champ.

Hope this helps ...

On 12/11/2023 at 3:54 PM, Lucas Lenartowicz said:

Hey,

We have a 2008 Hisun 700 and it had a similar problem. Would die at the worst times, idled rough, and wouldn't restart. Turned out to be the rectifier/charging unit. Got the part on amazon I believe. Diagnosed it using a pdf from RMSTATOR, they have excellent diagnostic breakdown that really only requires a multimeter. https://rmstator.com/pub/media/pages/static-pages/tests-diagnostic/pdf/electricals-gremlins-20170223-EN.pdf

I went to the rmstator website to see what other charts they might have, but when choosing the rig, they do not show a Hisun or Coleman. What did you choose, or doesn't it matter? I've noticed this on other websites too, where as they never list Hisun or Coleman as a choice.

12 hours ago, NewtoUTV said:

Needs to be a class action against them!

Yeah, I agree. And to make matters worse, myself and someone else I know was sold a UTV from Tractor Supply as new only to find out the UTV was used. The other guy was able to return his, but I hesitated too long and was not able to do so. As with you, I was not able to get a hold of Coleman and when contacting Hisun, they wanted nothing to do with Coleman products anymore and would not honor any warranty, do to all the things wrong with mine.

It seems that there are many people who have had little to no problems with theirs, but others have bought a nightmare. In my case, I just take one problem at a time and just move on from there. In spite of all the problems, I really like this UTV in comparison to others I've looked at, all of which were way too expensive and seemingly smaller and less comfortable in design.

10 hours ago, NewtoUTV said:

I don't think someone disconnect it, I bought this machine new, I beleive it was never connected.  I have been tring for over a year to get coleman to deal with the issues, but they will not help me.  I have even filed a BBB complant and they would not even reply to them.  So I need to try to figure out the issues.  

This being connected to the voltage regulator will probally fix one of the issues I have been having, the battery icon always turning on and off.  Fingers crossed.  Thank you

Well, straight out of the factory, I've seen a number of people complaining about bolts being loose, air filters being installed backwards, small engine repair shops stating that valves were not adjusted correctly, and the complaints go on and on. This may be why Coleman filed for bankruptcy about a year ago and why their parts department was not functioning until just a few months ago. They weren't shipping out any parts and I even reached out to Hisun, who basically makes the parts for the UTV and their response was, "sorry, we do not want anything to do with Coleman, so you're on your own".

Best of luck and just take one issue at a time. There are many of us out there supporting one another, as well as plenty of YouTube vids that can be helpful.

2 hours ago, NewtoUTV said:

That was where it goes, thought it might fix my problem with the odomiter not working but it didn't.  I wounder what it is for as I didn't notice anything else light up on the dash.

I went to the Coleman website and looked through some of the diagrams. Then I put in what I thought was the part number and it came up as a Voltage Regulator.

Part #2 https://www.colemanpowersportsusa.com/parts/utv_side-by-side-parts/outfitter-400_ut400/electrical-components

Googled part # - https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=P115000321000000-d

Not sure why anyone would disconnect that, but you should look into it some more.

16 hours ago, NewtoUTV said:

I have alot of issues with this machine that I'm trying to figure out and fix.  Today when I was fixing the shifter I see this cable connection that is not connected to anything.  I looked and can't find where it might need to be.  Any ideas would be greatfull.

I checked under my hood and only seen 2 black connectors. One was a different shape than that and when disconnected did not look yellow inside. But there was another black connector that I could not disconnect that was that shape. It had 3 white wires, 1 black and 1 red and was connected under the part that I have the red arrow pointing to. Check to see if there is wiring connected under that part and if not, what you are holding may be the connector.

17 hours ago, NewtoUTV said:

Tonight, I finally got to doing this and it fixed my issue with the machine popping out of gear.  I did it slightly differently, by cutting the existing and welding a piece on to it, to make up the 3/4".  I'm not a welder so the welds are not pretty.

Looks just fine and as long as it works, it's a win-win situation. No one is going to see the welds under the hood anyway. Just make sure you do some readjusting of the cable to compensate for the distance change and you should be fine. Took me about 3 tries before I got the cable readjusted and probably can use another adjustment, but all-in-all, the UTV does run better.

17 hours ago, NewtoUTV said:

Rainman the gap you set did it work out at .8mm,  I have this issue all the time with the plug being covered with carbon.  I have been setting the gap at .6.

It was a couple months ago and looking over my previous post, I'm not sure exactly what I did or if it was actually .8mm. Doesn't seem that is what I would have done, but instead I would have adjusted the gap somewhere in between the .6mm and .7mm. Sorry I can't remember exactly, but I can say that the plug, inside the tailpipe, as well as the OS2 sensor, were all carbon covered.

In my case, the starting issue I was having and the carbon buildup was due to water in the gas tank. According to my mechanic, he stated that there was enough water in the tank to cause my starting issue, as well as the cause of carbon buildup on the plug, OS2 sensor and tailpipe.

After being repaired, so far, my UTV is starting and running great since the water was removed and the tank filled with fresh gas. I haven't checked the plug or sensor as of yet to see if carbon has reappeared, since the UTV was repaired and now running good.

Are you having other issues, such as hard starts, stalling etc.,?

I went to the Coleman website that has the same diagram, which lists parts by name and their availability https://www.colemanpowersportsusa.com/parts/utv_side-by-side-parts/outfitter-400_ut400/water-pump but out of the 26 listed parts in the diagram, they only name 6 parts that are available, which doesn't help seeing if there is an "O" ring there. Looking at the diagram, could part #5, #25, or part #23 (the part to the right) could possibly be an "O" ring? Not sure.

You might be able to call Coleman and get some help from them.

13 hours ago, Greg Kilgore said:

Rainman, 

Every now and then my Axis 500 has to have gas pedal pressed a little to start.

When that happens. I let it run for 30 seconds or so.

Then shut it down.

Wait 1 minutes.

Turn key from "off" to "on" but not attempting to start. Just until I hear the fuel pump kick on.

Then I shut it back off.

Repeat this cycle 5 times within 30 seconds.

After the 5th cycle. Leave it off for 30 seconds.

This resets the ECU.

After that the machine starts and run fine.

Maybe have to do this once every 3 months.

 

Hope this helps 

Thank you - I will definitely keep this in mind and give it a try.

I did finally find out why I was previously having problems starting my Coleman. I had my mechanic take a look at it and after having it there four days, he narrowed it down to contaminated gas. He said the tank had a lot of water in it. Seems that when I purchased it, it didn't have a gas cap and Tractor Supply had a rag stuffed in the filler tube. They said the cap was missing, so I can assume that's how the water got in the tank. The tank was cleaned out and a new spark plug and gas filter installed. Starts great now and hopefully will continue to do so.

UPDATE - So here is the update on my no-start, carbon fouling Coleman ...

I started the process to adjust the valves as others with similar problems had recommended, but stopped due to lack of time. So I decided to just drop it off to my mechanic, who stated that he works on UTVs.

After about 4 days of him having it there, he narrowed the problem down to contaminated gas, which he said had a lot of water in the tank. After cleaning out the gas tank, replacing the spark plus and fuel filter, my Coleman starts up every time without any problem.

He couldn't figure out how that much water had gotten into the gas tank, but I did tell him that when I purchase the Coleman, it had no gas cap and the store had a rag stuffed into the filler tube (long story).

In any case, that is what fixed my problem, a big weight off my shoulders for sure.