lowgear

I have disconnected my o2 sensors in the past first it will run very rich, very hard to start when cold. Then as time passes 1 or 2 months it will start to show other signs of odd running, stumbeling when you shift and possibly surging between 2000 and 3000 RPM. I hooked the o2 sensor before the cat back up and left the one after disconnected. The sensor before the cat is the main one, it tells the ECM what amount of fuel to give the engine and also where the timming should be. The signal it sends for timming is critical that is where the surge will come from. The one after the cat is for emmisions( gov. regs) you don't need it and it won't affect your ECM or the way it runs. All this is what I found out on my own T2 yours might act differiently so it is up to you what you do. I spent a lot of money trying to correct the problems that arose from my dissconecting the o2 sensors instead of just hooking them back up. I was just to hard headed for my own good.

I have one you can try, but as Lenny said it is really only useful in cold weather. Once it warms up it will run fine, I haven't had mine hooked up for two years I just reset my idle with the idle screw works fine. I will send you a PM to contact me.

Yes I was just refering to the air only shocks. I though about going to air ride too but after I read that on their web site I changed my mind.

I just read on the King shock web site that air shocks will work great for rock crawlers but might not be a good idea for someone riding the trails all the time. The reason being that the air will get heated up and get very stiff ruining your soft side.

If you don't use the ecm from lenny let me know I'd be interested in it

Ther are a lot of companies out there that sell hiem joints I would think that one of them would sell some type of rebuild kit for them. The ends look like the inside of a heim joint get some measurements and call around maybe you'll get lucky

Has anyone connected the calipers on the rear axle together emer. to service to get more brake power on the rear axle.

I would suggest putting in a new one or you might end up with the same problem I have had for almost a year with the surge problem. I have not been able to find the cause nor fix with any blind luck.

yes I sent you a PM

does anyone have a one or a pair of stock front shocks for a t2 one of mine blew out the seal.

Has anyone seen this D-Boost performance chip on e-bay and can you tell if it might be worth a try. item #160703244433

bruhaw I checked there isn't any PM did you send it to the right person how about just calling I have to drive or walk into town to use my computer

bruhaw I want to find out about your tires give me a call 330-646-8327 lowgear The sooner the better one of them is loosing air.

Matching the intake ports is a very good idea, but you need to be very careful when you start to work inside the intake ports of the head itself. Yes there are benifits to be had from porting the head itself but the shape of the ports are configured from past experience and then programed into a computer to get good flow, but keep in mind that this is done to be able to comply with emissions. There is alot to be gained by porting heads for HP you just need to keep the shape close to original, especially on the intake side because it relies on vacumn not pressure like the exhaust. I did some port work many years ago long before multi valve heads came out but before the advent of these type of heads it was pretty straight forward, now there is alot more swirl effect on the air going into the cylinder and it is very easy to ruin this effect. If you want to port the heads I myself would find someone that does it for a living and has a very good rep because once it is done if it's wrong you will be buying a new head. If you go the route of forced induction, if you do, you need to tell them what type of setup you will use because if memory serves me it makes a differience.

Try your local hardware store.

I have an 08 originally if the idle speed was below 950 the oil pressure would fall off to about 5-6lbs, but if I raised the rpm to 1100 it would climb to about 20lbs. I found out with mine that straight 50w oil it would maintain good pressure at idle even when hot. I don't think that your alt or battery voltage has anything to do with oil pressure. I now have 12,000+ miles on mine and it has not changed.

Yes I have one of the first fifty, gas tank in front rear deck lid is steel and welded on the underside of the frame. I bought mine used but the guy that had it before me fixed most if not all that the early ones had wrong with them. the only thing that I broke was the rear drive shaft I replaced it with the newer one with the cv joints. The only thing that I hav n't been able to track down is the engine surge that I have had for about 9 or 10 months.

I would be interested in the ECM, how much?

Your deck lid is differient than mine the plate is welded on the bottom of my frame where as yours looks to be on the top side. Yours looks like aluminum too or it's just shinny.

I don't know about anybody else but when I flipped my intake the IAC sensor was to high the rear deck lid hit it. I had to turn mine sideways to cure problem but it worked out good for me because it posistioned the throttle so that I could use the stock cable mount all I had to do was bend it a little.

Thanks for the insight I'll see if I can contac Maxxis directly. bruhaw after I see what I can get done with Maxxis I'll let you know probably end up getting them from you money is tight know and it stinks.

I checked with the warehouse where I bought the tires (Chaparrel in Ca.) they want me to send the tires back of course at my expense then it will take a month for them to get back to me. I know that they will be pro rated for any refund or exchange and they are almost 1 year old so I think that I won't bother because it will end up costing me more than if I just buy new tires. You can bet it won't be from Chaparrel again.

Has anyone had trouble with the side walls cracking on the rear. I don't run hard at all and the side walls are cracked all the way around and begining to move to the face of the tire. This has happened in a very short period of time. I look at the tires almost every day and check for problems. I'am running maxxis cerros tires, stock rims, at between 12 and 14psi in the rear. I wonder if the tires are not enough for the weight of the T2. The pressure I run is what is recomended on the sidewall.

I didn't have to bleed mine out but you will know when you try to use the clutch. Try pushing it in and hold it there for a while putting in gear and back out again. If it starts to get hard toput into gear then you may have to bleed it, but I think you will be OK. I have mine adjusted so that the pedal is about 2 to 21/2" off the floor but that is where mine works best yours may be diffierent.

Iam changing my system to straight power thru switch, fuse, then coil and injectors. I will be using 2 switchs one for each.I have eliminated all the relays in my elec. system. I checked as much info as I could find on auto type elec systems and found out that the reason for relays was not to put a sever amount of stress on the rest of the system ie ECU,alt, and gauges, because the fan, fuel pump, coil and injectors pull a lot of power on start up and without relays it might burn out the other components on some type of feed back. I have seperated them from the rest of the system with there own power supply and control.