latch73

What are our chances of getting you put up a few photos about this, I've been working on my (our) power steering project and haven't had time for other stuff, but when I try to start the Trooper, I have a real problem lately, maybe I need to replace the gasoline, Which by the way is the mid grade, always, do you think we need any better on do we even need that???

Kinarfi

Kinarfi, A friend of mine is having the very same problems. He is digging deep into it as we speak so I will see what he comes up with. Now here awhile back I was having some of the same problems and its the darnest thing but I removed my battery box and rebuilt it to except a larger battery. After installing the battery box back in and ging to a heavy duty car battery my machine fires right up. It has never started without giving it a little gas since the day I bought it and now it fires right up even in the coldest of Wyoming temps. I would have never of guessed that my battery not having enough cranking amps could have been my problem but it worked.

Good luck and I will let you know what my buddy comes up with.

One other possibility is the air intake temp sensor. This is the small square sensor mounted on the side of the intake plenum. Un-plug it and remove it. Buy some throttle body cleaner from the parts house and spray off the little tip of this sensor. These will get piled up w/ dirt and can't take a good reading, causing the computer difficulties in determining how much fuel to deliver. Just a thought. A.

Thanks Anylizer, I will give it a try.

I just wanted to take a moment and thank all of you who are members of this board. I am quit mechanicaly inclined but would be at a loss on my trooper at times. Everytime I have run into a problem and get totally frustrated there is always someone with a suggestion or answer and it makes me proud to be a Joyner owner and part of such an awsome group. Just had to be said. I cant imagine owning anything else.

Thanks,

Lance

08 Joyner Trooper

It is in the throttle body and they don't sell parts for it seperately. If you can't get one let me know I have them in stock seen this problem several times.

Fast Ed

Thanks fast Ed for the info. I am still finishing my house (trying to beat winter) but as soon as I get all caught up I will get in touch with you to discuss the problem in a little more detail. I have dealt with throttle bodys on trucks a little but am kind of in the dark on the part you described. I could use all the help I can get.

Thanks again

Lance

Thanks guys for the ideas. I will give it a try. Its good to be back, I have been rebuilding my house all summer long and havn't had no time for anything else. No fun;-( Great to hear from you guys and I hope all is well.

My 08 Trooper has had this starting problem since the day I purchased it new. My buddy bought an 08 Trooper the same day from the same dealer and also experienced the same problem. He turned up his idle but I felt it was a poor fix because its the same as giving it throttle. I tried upping the fuel psi, changed out fuel filters, and always let the fuel pump pressure up and sometimes turned the ignition on and off a few times to make sure it was pressured up. Nothing has ever worked. Now for problem #2 that I feel is part of problem #1 is if I ever kill the engine while lets say pushing snow with the plow you just as well walk away from the machine for 30 min. because it will not start at all. after about 30 min. it will fire right back up (with a little throttle) as if there was never a problem. If anybody figures this out I would be doing back flips. P.S. It doest matter if the engine is cold or warmed up I still have to give it a little throttle to start.

I forgot to mention that the machine idles fine once running.

If you get a chance, take a look at the front gears, I still think they'll be the same as the rear, after all do you think they want to go the expense to make them different when they can just turn one upside down.

Jeff

I bet your right. I hope I dont have to break into anymore diffs. but if that ever happens I will investigate. It would be good to know so if anyone ever breaks some gears we would know if you could use the fronts on the rears and vice versa.

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...ficial%26sa%3DN Did you have to do all the stuff in this article or just put them in place and tighten the bolts?

jeff

Jeff its kind of funny because I have set up many of chevy differentials and one Toyota and there is no adjustment on the trooper differential. It is built so it can only go together one way and does not use a crush sleeve or have any shims to allow for back lash adjustment. I didnt put a mic on it but the back lash is not to far off by just feel and sound. I have never seen anything like it and figure that is the reason Joyner does not sell just the gears.

Well I am back on the road again. YeHa!!! I was able to purchase a ring and pinion set from a dealer who had a T2 come in with a busted diff. housing. FYI, If anybody breaks there gears, unless you can find a used set from someone, you will have to purchase the complete differential form Joyner because they dont sell just the gears. ($900.00 +) Well happy holidays to all.

Lance

Latch 73 Have you had any luck finding a ring gear for the trooper, i know you where looking for info on other sites, jusst wondering if you came up with anything.

Yes, There is a Joyner dealer in Idhao that had a rear diff. housing somehow break but the gears are good. He called Joyner and had them do a breakdown cost on new comp. diff and he said that a new set of gears would run $350.00 so he offered me his used set for $200.00

Does anyone know the gear ratios of the Trans & Diffs? If not and you have to have work, get the ratios or number of teeth on the gears. If I have to replace the engine someday it will be will something with more POWER so I/you will need the gear rations. Worst case would to be travel to the shop in Phoenix.

Thanks,

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Rocmoc, The gear ratio for the differentials is:

Ring Gear 32 teeth

Pinion Gear 15 teeth

Gear Ratio 2.13

I dont know what the trans ratio is.

In our semi trucks we run 456s, we used to run the 488s. our trucks move loads up to 300,000 lbs. the 456s are a stronger gear, you have more teeth in contact and the gear is thicker. When you run planitarys they run a high gear on the ring and pion and then lower the gear back down with the planitarys at the hub. In racing we had a problem on short tracks, (need lower gear ratio) the ring gears would break. !st gear in the trooper has plenty of torq so i don't think the gearing would kill you.

Thanks flatbed that makes good sense.

latch73

What happened as far a getting parts for the diff. did you find a ring and pion. another thing to think about is changing the gear ratio. going to a taller gear will make the ring and pion stronger. you would have to change both ends of course.

Flatbed,

I have come real close with some of the ring gear and pinions used in different ATV's. The part thats killing me is the rear locker. I cant come up with anything that uses a rear locker witch is critical do to the way the ring gear bolts on. As far as going taller if I am not goofed up would actualy make for a weaker pinion gear do to the fact that the pinion would drop in the number of teeth. Not 100% on this but if my mind is not playing with me I belive that is the way it works. The other problem is I think with taller gears I would loose alot of bottom end torque. Whats your oppinion?

Well here is my dilemma. I just blew my rear differential out of my T2. The problem I have is Joyner wants me to go through my dealer to determine if I can get a replacement under warranty even though I have had the machine for + or - 8 months. This is all great but what about down the road if I blow another and cant get it warrantied. Joyner does not sell just the gear set (Ring and Pinion) you have to buy the whole differential complete for over $900.00(US). Ok so this is where I am coming from. I had burned up my 4X4 electronic selector months ago and when I tore it apart to repair it I hand noticed that it had Arctic Cat stamped on the electronic board inside . I did some research and found that the exact same selector is used on some of Arctic Cats ATV four Wheelers. So now I am thinking that the diff’s could also be from an Arctic Cat ATV and some look very close but I am having trouble finding one with the manual locker or even a locker at all. See Arctic Cat does sell just the ring and pinion and for under $200.00(US) A big savings from buying the whole diff. I can call Arctic Cat but I thought I would pick all your brains first to see if any of you can come up with something. This could benefit us all. Oh and to answer any questions on what happened to my diff. here it goes. Jack Ass, that’s what I call myself when I do something stupid decided to show off and spin out on dry very clean concert at a very high RPM and well yep boom blew the ring and pinion gears. Yep again, now look who’s cool. Well anyhow, below is some of the specs I have determined so far.

Ring Gear: 32 tooth

Pinion: 15 tooth

Gear Ratio: 2.13

Ring Gear Diameter: 6 5/8" 0r 6.625"

Pinion: 26 spline

ring gear: 12 bolt

No Part numbers on anything except the case and I believe it to be Joyners marking.

HTR10711130

How long has he had his T2? Is it still under warranty

We both took delivery of our T2's last spring. So no, the warrant was up a long time ago. It was determined that the bolt had to be faulty and Joyner was great about making it right.

Talked to my friend again and he told me that Joyner is shipping him a brand new complete rear diff. at no charge.

New update on rear diff. My friend said that the bolt holding on the ring gear did not back out but actualy busted off in the middle of the bolt and the threaded end went out the back side. The bolt head with retaining wire was still in the ring gear. He has some pictures and as soon as I get them I will download onto the trooperfolk webshots. He said that Joyner is working with him on the investigation to see who is going to replace the diff.

glad to have you on board, posted some pictures of my fuel tank under your pictures today, hope you don"t mind

No I dont mind. I will have to go and check it out.

Thanks to all for the welcome. I love reading all the Trooper posts and allot of the work I have done on my buggy came from stuff I have learned through the fourms.

Just had mine apart to look at it when i was redoing the back. Noticed that all the bolts on mine where saftey wired.

He said that also so thats why im not 100% sure as to what happened. I will see him at work tonight an hope I can get a little better understanding. I am on graveyards so it takes my brain a little longer to compute things

Not 100% clear on this yet but a friend of mine who also owns a T2 had his rear end go out on him the other day. He tore it down and found what looked like one of the bolts that hold the ring gear on had backed out and caused the pinion and ring gear to lock up and striped some of teeth off. He is still in the evaluation process and is in touch with Joyner. I will update as soon as I learn more.

Thanks Kinarfi, I will look at building one for myself. Thats alot better set up than what Im using now. I had a brain lock and didnt even think to build my own.

Kinarfi, Did you ever get your buggy problems ironed out? This may have nothing to do with your problems but I had some grounding problems on my buggy at one time that was giving me all kinds of electrical problems. I ended up changing out some wiring and pulling all the grounds off and cleaning/removing paint from them. As far as the oil coming out of the catch can I have never had any problems with that.

I agree. I should start using a torque wrench. I have always been able to feel for tightness by hand but It seems that the lugs on the trooper lock themselves down. I was just wondering if there was a star wrench out there with thin walls that would fit the low profile of todays lug nut holes. I also coulduse one for my truck as well becase I have to use a socket and breaker bar for its wheels do to low pro holes. Thanks for the input.

Here is some old pictures of my T2. I have done alot of stuff since these and will take some new pics and post them as well.

Cick on the picture below.

I just added some new pictures as well. Check them out and if you have any questions let me know.

Has anyone come up with a lug wrench that will fit inside the holes on the trooper wheels? I am currently using a 3/8 drive socket with a breaker bar but am afraid that one day I will end up snapping the drive off of the breaker bar trying to loosen the lug nuts.