hfrick

sounds like you win...  congratulations   Hardy

Im not positive on current pricing,you would have to check with Trevor or Karen at Mudslinger...but the elkas used to be around $1ooo a pair front or rear  Canadian..so with our poor dollar around maybe $750 US..Im running air shocks on mine..not for everyone as they are a tad finicky,but Im pretty happy with the shocks/suspension mods for the last few years

a little more pricey,but Mudslinger Motorsports  in Alberta Canada sells custom built Elka I believe stage 5 shocks proto typed for,then manufactured specifically for the trooper t2

changing out your turbo would be where I would start,have found contrary to Silverbullets experience that a turbo can and does work very well on the trooper.besides poor plumbing,and poor fuel control...the most common mistake is too large a turbo   just my 3 cents...Hardy

my experience with the trooper 1100 is that the header gave it a little more upper rpm power,but I prefer the manifold with a muffler,as it seems to help with bottom end torque and throttle response...just my 3 cents Hardy

soo the last grind was a no go ?

hey Jeff...is it hard to turn...or just lots of turns to make it go the direction you choose...we have had a few commandos show up with what we call knicker knobs...or tractor steering knobs bolted to the wheel,as it takes many turns to head it your direction...Hardy

do you have manual/wiring diagram to follow? www.mudslinger.ca click on trooper,then click on manuals,should link to a copy of manual with wiring diagram...hope that helps...Hardy

have been doing some reading and searching...does anyone have information on how/where/what parts to gear 5th taller...Ive read that at one time parts were supposed to be available,but have never seen or heard of anyone actually doing it...Hardy

found a mention of a company in Mesa that used to have a kit??? no email,so will have to try calling in the next few days...anyone else have info?

the wires meant that it had not been upgraded...depending on the damage,you may find your best value in purchasing a complete new rear diff..they generally have some sort of warranty...here in Canada Mudslinger.ca in your neck of the woods try,Prattville powersports took over from JMC and seem good to deal with,as you mentioned Silverbullet

do these help? please pardon the dirt lol...its still too cold here to get it washed up...Hardy

Kinarfi also figured out today how to put a few pics into my gallery

I will try to take a picture in the next day or two...we flip and center the gasket on the intake,then mark/drill 3 new holes ..the center one is a bit#$ as its really close to the original...the end two locations we build a small bracket out of flatbar to carefully "pinch" clamp the ends....Hardy

I dont cut and weld...leave adapter attached to head,flip oem section and redrill the adapter...the intake tract all lines up (as well as factory Joyner...lol) rotate throttlebody and remount throttle cable bracket...Hardy

looks like the intake used on the buggies/and stock chery part...have tried on stock trooper...agreed with plumber,is a little too high for stock bracing...tried one on a bone stock powered trooper that had a modified rear cage,so height wasnt a problem...however unlike plumber,we didnt notice any real performance change (for the good,or bad) ...maybe helps with other mods?? my trooper, and any we have sold/modified,or turboed in the last few years have had the intake flipped...not for performance in the n/a ,but to get tps,iac,throttlebody up out of the dirt,and ease of other maint...Hardy

I hope is a misunderstanding .. and that he gets back to you and settles up...as much as I like to trust fellow members,Ive learned (on dootalk not here) that there are many dishonest peeps out there...I still do cash/e pay of some sort before I will send anything...also at $200 for a rear diff,that was almost a gift already...Hardy

answer is very dependent on what brand/style of turbo is being used...the use of a restrictor is very common on ball bearing turbos,and some journal bearing turbos ...without the restriction,when oil pressure increases,the flow into the turbo can exceed what the drain can get rid of causing the oil to push past the turbo seals and smoke really heavy...I believe the common restrictor size for garret turbos is .065...as a side note,we have noticed a few of the chinese turbos running without any form of restrictor,that definitely effect the troopers oil pressure (lower it)

just a link I found to show 1 of the styles

Oil Inlet Restrictor - .065" hole size 1/8" NPT (for Journal bearing and larger GT BB) : atpturbo.com

have mounted heater assemblys under the drivers/and or pasengers seat so the heat blows forward onto the feet and legs (doesnt work that well here in Canadas winter,as turns snow to slush and water) dont think you should often have that as an issue..lol... I havent put forced air heat in my own,but did do driver and passenger upper and lower seat portions heated with low and high options...my wife loves it...I am also really starting to appreciate it even on a cool rainy day/or on the way home after playing in the mud....Hardy

hey Gary...always glad to hear about good customer service..hope you enjoy your new ride...would you mind letting us know what the initial problems were,and what it took to solve them...thanks Hardy

Charlie...what about lowering your diffs in the frame to cut down the angle ...the shaft still only has a certain amount of angle,but you should be able to lift it a couple of inches and still keep axles in thier safe zone..(so far Ive only relocated my rear diff ) primarily to allow for the additional travel with my fox air shocks...Hardy

myself.I think with the miles you are making,once a year is perfect..unless I was driving in extreme cold I dont think I would bother with the synthetic,as at a couple hundred miles regular dino oil should never break down on you...however synthetic wont hurt...I also lube cables in the fall as any waterin there will freeze over winter here...the other thing I do every ride is I carry and spray chain wax on front and rear suspension ,hiem joints steering joints and shock pivot points...really keeps the squeeking down and coats parts from water etc...just my 3 cents...Hardy

the fuel controllers dont always work well right out of the box..they are designed to add fuel ..thats why I like to set them up with an o2 sensor...if you disconnect power to the controller then start it will run the joyner factory fuel map untill you power fuel controller back up

very rare that we need to change plugs in them...not to say never...I would put fresh fuel,then check your fuel pressure ,if that doesnt help,disconnect the ground (or power) to your fuel controller to put back to stock...thats where I would start...Hardy

have had many that need "just a touch" of throttle on start up...as long as it idles well after that,I wouldnt worry...if idles poorly/stalls as well..look at replacing the IAC (idle air control)

Charlie..we drill and tap ours to put in a grease zerk...Hardy

Charlie..I have put some in with "green" bearing retainer loctite..also sometimes can get a "shim" under the snap ring to tighten them up..have also tack welded in place,just make sure the welds go where you can get at them to grind off next ball joint change...oh yea..and put weight on while loctite sets,or while welding...just my 3cents...Hardy