hfrick

got my rad relocate done in the fall,also shortened cage and bed to match...moved lights to where I really have to try to break them off...this spring plan to finally get rear fox shocks in for testing...I will like them,or I will have to order the elkas from mudslinger..thinking about some tunes for while parked,maybe different gauges...and the turbo is always on my mind...Hardy

lets get riding and fixing and modifying...Ill tell you the truth...the Joyner utv forum gets pretty quiet alot of the time...maybe we should post when we have fun,or ideas...not just when we have problems...just my 3 cents...Hardy

Im playing with fox air shocks in the front of mine,have but have not tested fox airs for the rear also...while not cheap,so far the Elka stage 4s on Trevors demo trooper at mudslingers alberta are the nicest Ive driven...and they are bolt in and user/ride style adjustable

so much depends on the use/abuse,maintenance..and initial build/pdi ..we have a customer that has 3 machines in sask.canada that they use for work...meaning they take them into places they do not want to drive their 4x4 pick ups...they have 2 2008s,with I believe,1 with aprox 20,000km (12,500miles) and the other with 43,000km or aprox 26,000 plus miles (as of spring 2014) they also purchased a 2014 to add to their fleet...they work the trooper,give them maintenance and have had to do minor repairs...just saying...myself,airborne in 4wd with both diff locks engaged...I had to put a rear diff in (mines a 2008)

I believe Trevor at Mudslinger Motorsports in Alberta Canada has been and still is selling, servicing ,modifying and stocking/selling parts for joyner products since aprox 2007

I understand,one can adapt anything...any particular reason for the Sante Fe ? gearing matches? input,or output shafts same splines?

not sure what shipping would be like,but check with Mudslinger in Alberta Canada www.mudslinger.ca

where are you located?

also...guess I should have said master cylinders...Hardy

Charlie,its awkward...but if you look where the brake "push rod" goes into the master cylinder,you can see the end of the piston...when the brake pedal is released,the piston should come all the way towards you untill it stops right against the snap ring if it doesnt come all the way back it wont allow fluid into your master from the resevior ...sometimes all it takes is to blow the dirt etc out from the end and work back and forth a little to get piston to come all the way back...just my 3cents...Hardy

sounds like you already know the problem...the input to the heater is the "almost" 5/8 line,not exactly sure where you returned,but sounds right...that circuit kinda bypasses the rad and themostat...the air lock can be a bit#% to get rid of...can you get your core lower (below head /rad upper hose) at least to bleed out air?...even loosen clamp(s) at heater core while running (carefully) to allow air to escape?...just my 3cents...Hardy

t2lizzard ...Trevor at Mudslinger has them on his own/demo turbo trooper..they really work well !!! Ive been playing with fox air shocks on my own trooper and like them much better than the worn out stock ones I had,but so far no comparison to the Elkas...just my 3cents...Hardy

Charlie...your brakes should be 1 master supplys 1 front,and the opposite side rear brake..the other the opposite front/rear combination...kinda like an X ..makes them fun to bleed,normally have to remove 1 of the "push rods",bleed,then switch sides. A common problem is when the master cylinder piston does not return all the way back (up against the circlip) sometimes just cleaning out the "gunk" in the end of the master will allow it to return...bigdan,have done a number of heaters,where did you plumb in and out ? what are you using for a heater ? Hardy

3wheeler...you are looking for a ring and pinion...correct?? 2 scoops I believe is dealing with a broken output shaft in the transmission...have done a few output shafts,but not that many...usually under power airborn,then sudden grip when landing... replaced with stock (agree with Lenny,I leave mine in 4wd except when traveling down the road for an extended period) we also tell our turbo customers to "always" leave in 4wd...as for diffs,priced a front diff for an arctic cat prowler awhile ago...$2040...the trooper ones dont seem so out of line in comparison...just my 3cents...Hardy

not to confuse ...commando pump,low pressure/carburated...trooper and renegades,high pressure/fuel injected...Hardy

I dont see any real benefit to hooking up a scan tool.however wide band fuel ratio can help with tuning your programmer...every machine is a little different,particularly if you ve changed your intake,exaust,snokled etc...getting your trooper enough fuel,without over fueling it can really make a difference from the "1 size fits all" standard setting on the controller,or just guessing/tuning with the seat of the pants performance meter... once you ve tested/adjusted your fuel controller I would normally remove the air fuel gauge and o2 (put a plug in the bung for later)...and keep for tuning if you do other changes down the road...just my 3cents...Hardy

we have a scan tool that will access the chery computer ,on the older troopers it requires "backpinning" into the harness, newer troopers have an obd II plug tucked in behind the seat...alltho we can read most parameters,to my knowledge there is nothing we can change...read only and erase..as for "tuning",we install a tempory wide band air fuel gauge and o2 sensor,and sometimes tie in to the factory narrow band to adjust fuel controller after making any other mods to intake,snokel,exaust etc...we have installed air restriction guage into intake tubes,snorkels etc to give an idea how much flow/restriction been added or taken away,but only real "tuning"once intake exaust etc are designed and installed on a non turbo stock engine trooper we would usually do is fuel pressure and fuel controller...just my 3 cents...Hardy

hello Kinarfi...not sure who you where asking...(me ? ) and for what part number?...Hardy

looks good...looking forward to how you are building the top and front sections...Hardy

with our turbo system... garret turbo,our intake flip/mod,no intercooler,short charge tube,quiet exaust (or loud) large dual stage air filter and fuel controller,we ve been having excellant results in the 6 to 8 psi boost range on premium pump gas ...(have also run 10-12 psi with better fuel) ...tuning with our wideband air fuel,we have been able to keep a rich condition while under full throttle,and full boost

also curious as to what happened...steering rack updates with a new upper plate or changing out to the most current steering box is what I have seen....we have been putting power steering into the newer/updated boxes without trouble...that box does look kinda cool tho....Hardy

agreed with Lenny and Charlie...we dont usually remove engine to do transmission/clutch etc service...sliding the engine back a little is normally enough,altho some of the turbo systems make it a tight fit...Hardy

Clankford...some nice looking work...we also like the fact the trooper is not a "cookie cutter" machine...what have you done for turbo?

this may not sound too technical...but have you confirmed that your fuel pump is running? second what year is your trooper?.they do have slightly different start up actions ....the older ones had a fuel pressure gauge at the left rear of the engine...that should show somewhere between 45-60 psi when the pump runs in pre start up mode (the new troopers use a different style regulator and no gauge) poor fuel..yup have run into that,but as far as setiment plugging thing up,hopefully your fuel filter would catch all/most of that...but plugged filters happen...finally when you say "wont start"..exactly what happens...you turn the key to the first position,wait for pump and fan (possibly) to run and the gauges to sweep...(you should then have fuel pressure at the gauge) when that is complete you turn to start position...cranks well but wont fire up?? try the same sequence with your foot slightly on the gas pedal...try again... I know this sounds simple,but sometimes its the simple things that keep one from starting ...just my 3 cents...Hardy

utvinwv...are you running a stock hood over your front mount rad/cooler? any cut outs etc...thanks...Hardy