mlg

Thanks for the info ,flipping the intake to reduce filter to throttle body length and to gain room in front of the radiator . Plan on installing oil cooler in front of radiator .A little worried about intake gasket availability and glad to here most have made there own gasket

Hi to everyone ,and happy thanksgiving. I have a question about flipping the intake on my trooper .Are you able to reuse the intake gaskets? Or did you fabricate your own gaskets or order news ones .

Hi , I believe that joyner system diagnostics are obd2 compliant,they should have standerized trouble codes . It would be pretty easy to wire up you can buy obd2 connector just need power,ground data line terminals added to the connector and use a generic code reader .With some research Iam sure we could find a laptop based program and cable lead to read actual data streams

Awsome going to do mine this weekend

Your welcome. When you had your diffs apart, you could see that the lockout used an internal ring gear that slid over two gears. When the ring was on one gear, the diff is not locked. When the ring is over both gears, it's in lockout. If the cable isn't adjusted correctly it can leave the ring gear partly engaged over the second gear and even though your thinking you might not be locked out you could be. However in turns when the stress on the ring is the greatest, the ring could slip off under pressure which could make a clunk. Lift the wheels off the ground and in nertral play with the adjustment of the cable to get it to fully engage and disengage. Sounds like you did a lot of good things to your Trooper. Look at your clutch and brake pedals. Wiggle them side to side. Mine had a lot of slop and would rattle a lot. I took them apart and put different bushings which got rid of those rattles. What kind of tools do you have to work with. Maybe a lathe and mill. If so, I can tell you how to replace the your ball joints and tighten your heims joints. These are major sources of clunking in front.

Lenny

Lenny

Thanks for the info I'll recheck diff lock cable adjustment ,my clutch and brake pedals have a ton of movement in them . I don't have a lathe yet ,its on my tool wish list along with a protools tubing bender ,have about eveything else

Hi all, just finished a ton of upgrades on the trooper . Front and rear differential upgrade kits ,snorkle, fabricated automotive style tanks straps (mounting tabs broken), steering gear loosiness fix (thanks Lenney), longer bolts for rear trailing arms and boxed in trailing arms ,installed rubber insulators on all skid plates (fixed 90% of all vibration rattles) , and installed muffler from a 885 Harely. Went riding in the Uintas for the weekend a noticed an intermittent bang noise on hard torque situations in 2wd only . Don"t know if it has been there all along and did'nt here it due to the loud exhaust or is a new problem . When I was loading it to come home i noticed the 4wd actuator was making noise like it was trying to move in and out by itsself. I looked closer and found when I had the front diff out, the cheap Chinese electrical connector terminals for the 4wd actuator had pushed partially out of the connector. I pushed the terminals back in, the actuator now working normally . Plan on replacing connector with higher quality connector . I guess I won't know if this fixes the banging noise till next ride.

Another test you can perform that may help you isolate your compression problem is a cylinder leak-down test .If you have an air compressor and , If you are using a compression tester with a (screw-in hose) adaptor , you can usally clip your air hose from your air compressor onto the compression tester hose and apply air pressure into the cylinder .Making sure the engine is rotated so all 4 valves are closed (compression stroke) ,listen for air escaping (if it is coming from the intake you have a intake valve issue,if it is coming from the exhaust it is a exhaust valve issue, if no air is escaping remove the oil cap ,is air is coming from inside it is the rings hope this helps

sorry fat fingered , compression values should increase with oil added verses a dry compression test id it is a ring problem it stays close to same may be a valve issue

Hi I would do a wet compression test ,this will verify if it is worn leaking piston rings or a possible a valve issue .jusy add a little oil to the combustion

thanks for the info guys

Hi all I was wondering for all who have upgraded their differentials has anyone run into this issue. rear diff went t together perfectly ,Iam in the process of upgrading tthe front differential and I have run into a problem , the stub shaft (side shaft) on the hub side is not machined for a snap ring .Has anyone seen this and wondering what should I do any thoughts ?

What Rocmoc said worring about crap non-servicable u-joints, was thinking about sending front drivline to

4x4 shop and having cv joints installed

Hi guys I was wondering if anyone has thought about or experienced the need to upgrade the front

drivline assembly ?

My trooper had the same concern this last ride, found the s terminal (small terminal) on starter solenoid was

loose tightened terminal has'nt done it again keep my fingers crossed

Lenny ,how long did it take you to r&r diff and make update repairs ? Iam pondering wether to bring the trooper

home from the cabin and make repairs now or wait till fall I only have 250km and baby it

I am writing this post to give thanks to a great guy who in my opinion, went above and beyond my expectations.

The owner of Thin Air Motorsports in Elko Nevada a valued member of this Forum ,took care of a shock issue

that I had . This man did not sell me my trooper but treated me better than my local dealer has done who I had

given almost thirteen thousand dollars to . Thin Air has earned my respect and future business . Joyner does have

issues but thanks to the experience with Thin Air Motorsports I have regained confidence in their company and

in their dealer network (some of them ). I know now if I experience a problem I have someone I can call and

get straight up answers to questions without any bulls*** .I live 240 miles from Elko Nevada but will not hesitate

to make the drive if I need work performed above my capabilities. Anyone out there that is looking at a Joyner purchase that is willing to make a road trip, I have no doubt they will take of you. thanks again Tim .

My dealer was ok through the sale ,but is 45 miles one way . Don't think he was very honest when I asked him

about durability of these machines . I told him when I first brought it home that I spent 3 hr rerouting engine

harnesses and how on my first ride the bolts came loose in the shifter .All he said was "well I havn't heard of

that one". One of my biggest complaints is no follow through, Numerous times I have called and have been

promised a return phone call that never happens.

Thanks I'll let you know ,I hope find out this week if Joyner is going to step or not

THANKS FOR THE INFO

MY diffs both front and rear started leaking second ride. Drained both diffs both had 22.5 oz .4 liters is 13.57 oz

Rode 40mi last trip drained rear diff all checked ok no oil contamination ,also no more leak. Now more worried

about diff being under lubricated than oil leaks

I don't know if anyone else has noticed the discrepancies in the online service manual . For instance page

38 it shows the engine takes 3.17 qt which is accurate but on page 42 it shows the engine taking 'about'

3.86 liters not correct. Also on page 38 transmission capacity is 1.9 qt which is correct page 42 says

'about' 2.0 liters incorrect . I can only find one reference to differential capacity on page 43 saying .4 liters

which is the amount that I put in mine . I hope that is the correct amount . Does anyone know? thanks

When I researched utvs last year trying to decide which product to buy ,I came across the Joyner line .I found

numerous blogs and websites which discussed the pros and cons of the new trooper . I loved the look and

size of it ,found a dealer and bought one .One the biggest sellers on this product was that it is automotive based

technology not atv . Since I've been in automotive repair industry for 25 years I fiqured this was great choice.

I think Joyner has a great oppurtunity to build into a great company if they can improve on their quality and

make customer service their prime objective . Since it seems now they have a big issue with differentials I

hope they would acknowlege the problem . Iam sure they don't have the funds to back $1800 worth of diffs

on each sale but at least provide replacement parts that are upgraded and provide a service bulletin on how

correct incorrect pinion depth issues. acknowlege the problen don't hide from it.

I have a rear shock issue ,not blown functions normally the spring is rubbing on the shock body makes an ungodly

squeeling scrapping noise .ai called my dealer last fall when I firsy bought it hel told me Joyner will not warranty

shocks but said he call and try well he never called . Just wondering if they can help me out warranty wise or

maybe sell to me at dealer cost just wondering

I was wondering for you guys that have contacted Joyner ,what was the best way. I have e-mailed them numerous times never got a response via e-mail or phone call .If I call them direct do you ask for service ? Any help would be apprieciated thanks

Did you replace just the rears with kings or did you do all 4 ?