big daddycoop

shold be ok i never had any belt issues yet

no do not

plus I cut out old small 360 cca battery and installed a 750 cca, wow what a difference it made, got a walmart they called it a VALUE BATTERY, $49 dollars with 1 year warranty, a steal you ask me, why pay more for more warranty, looks like same battery as 100 plus dollar ones, works good right now

replaced the fule filter up from fuel pump drained out OLD gas, added a lot of my favorite gas/engine cleane MECHANIC IN A BOTTLE swear best shit around for buildups in gas or valves and then some found at rural king, used it in some bad running engines and ALWAYS HAS came through for me, so i did it here in joyner too, well all surging is gone now................

think mine are 30x10x14 itp tires

well Joyner usa c/o Brandon told me about the fuel filter problems they has that would put my machine in to what he called a vapor lock, told me to take toe filter and put after the fuel pump, no today I cleaned tank completely, just purchased bike and smelled like real old gas, so never got to try tonight most likely tomorrow, but I have to replace water pump first tomorrow cause it is leaking through the weepholes at times and the filter was partially plugged real hard to blow thru, so that unit was a hinderance also

Well took the glass fuel filter back and got all metal one designed for fuel pumps, dont know why the other would not have worked but said NOT for fuel injection systems. DRAINED all the existing gas from tank, looked and smelled bad, the added my favorite additive MECHANIC IN A BOTTLE, that shit is the best I have ever used, it fixes about any and all dirt related gas issues and carbon and some others, I swear by it since it came out been using with great luck, think I found it again at RURAL KING............

well you are correct on the pressure, it was 62 psi, never paid attention to which was called what, now knowing that and it has a new filter AFTER the fuel pump, why would at times if you stalled it, not start till it got cold, and when you go down huge hills it acts like its going out of gas but has not stopped running there yet, guy in parts store sold me a small glass filter with white filters , with 3 filters in a pack, says right on the package not for fuel injection, but he said others use them all the time, maybe I should take it back????????????????

ok utv runs great AFTER i talked to BRANDON at Joyner USA, was having an issue when operating temps were up to norms, it would like just run out of gas and NOT start again till cooled, so I figured VAPOR LOCKED, well Brandon said yes they has problems with those in those years and earlier, to take to fuel filter that was BEFORE the fuel pump and put in after the fuel pump, and I did so, and the filter was pretty much plugged, so changing it was needed anyhow, that change made the fuel pressure go from 4 psi to 4.5 psi, and I AM NOT SURE what it really calls for on pressures, it was there when I bought it a week ago, but some reason now it runs great, starts great, but when it goes down a huge hill it studders the rpm or may chug itself out if that happens or you stall it, you basically have to wait till its cool again to restart, UNLESS I use starting fluid that kicks it only tried this the last time It stalled and would not start, showing fuels to rails at 4.5 ps. ANY IDEAS WHY STUDDERS DOWN BIG HILLS OR IF YOU STALL IT WILL NOT START TILL COOL AGAIN?????????????

MUST READ BEFORE DOING THIS REPAIR................ DO NOT THINK YOU CAN REMOVE ONLY THE TRANNY WITHOUT THE BELL HOUSING. YOU MUST REMOVE THE BELL HOUSE FIRST BECAUSE THERE ARE 3 (THREE)!!!!!! BOLTS ON THE INSIDE OF THE BELL HOUSING THAT KEEP YOU FROM SPLITTING THE TRANNY HOUSING APART, AFTER YOU REMOVE THESE ALL WILL GO WELL....................... THAT RIGHT THERE IS WORTH ITS WAIT IN GOLD TO SAVE YOU ADDED TROUBLE............................

ok all rebuilt, two bearings on output shaft and two oil seals did this unit fine.............. NOW after all done the water pump starts seeping out weep hole meaning bad bearings in my mind, so ordered one of these and hopefully my son can then ride the hell out of it lol

22 IS WHATS LEFT OF BEARING ON OUTPUT SHAFT REAR 23 IS SAME PIC OF OUTPUT SHAFT BUT OUT OF TRANNY 25 IS OTHER END OF OUTPUT SHAFT BEARING FRONT AND REAR BOTH WENT OUT 27 IS WHOLE WHERE i REMOVED OUTPUT SHAFT FROM TRANNY 28 IS OUTPUT DRIVE GEAR, HAD TO TAKE OUT TO REPLACE BUT OIL SEALS FOR BEING CHINA TRANNY SHIT IN THERE TOOK A REAL BEATING BUT VERY LITTLE DAMAGE AND GET THIS IT STILL DROVE WITH BOTH OUTPUT BEARINGS BEING GONE COMPLETELY...........OTHER GEARS ARE STILL MESHED AND PRETTY SHARP JUST A FEW THAT i HAVE TO DRESS UP TO CUT DOWN ON FURTHER WEAR

NOT BAD, TWO BEARINGS AND TWO SEALS FOR DIFF THAT IS FRONT AND REAR BEARING FOR OUTPUT SHAFT, AND ALL ELSE LOOKS OK FOR JUST RATTLING AROUND IN THERE, NOT BAD QUALITY FOR CHINA SOME USA WOULD HAVE DISTRUCTED ITSELF PROBLEM WAS NO OIL MOSTLY WATER AND SOME OIL MIX

ok finally some things for you guys to review took tranny apart and found my problem was in pic 1218 the bottom gear assembly had bad bearings, the pic 1219 shows where there was a needle bearing that went bad, so I need that one and the one on other side to fit assembly back in tight and in mesh again pic 1221 show a set of gears about 5 or so that I have to take out and clean up, they are not ruined but a couple have burrs, that sound feasible to you guys, just can't find anyone to sell me parts yet have email at silverbullet and joyner usa wont know till after noon cause of time difference 1222 is just pic of unit what you guys propose, not even sure how that needle bearing removes, but not worrying till I have parts located

I want to remove all parts of that tranny and deburr whats needs to be so I can just do two bearings and be fixed if that is possible, but would like a picture of reference

well KInarfi, don't see anything here about pm so Ill ask the question, I would like to have a good picture of tranny inside so I can tell the name of a couple of bearings I need, where do I find this and who has the best stock of tranny parts especially bearings, can't order them if I don't know real name of bearing

thought I posted this but no relies so must went somewhere so Ill do it over Just got back in from extensive checking utv tranny, and found this no matter what I adjust or try to do I have NO 4th or 5th gear goes into 1st fine, 2nd goes into but unless you hold shifter down it may pop out, 3rd goes into ok no 4th or 5th???? Now it makes a bad noise like grinding of sort just when you let out clutch and then begin to move and it does move, but whenever you let off gas and put strain back on gear it is very load noises are coming from right underneath shifter rod for tranny. This mean tranny is bad or can it be something else, then again if tranny is bad what are my choices, by new, any rebuilts, and any used anywhere? Saw new cherry tranny for 1009 dollars tried to find in scrape yards for UTVS but no luck, what you suggest guys, money is tight but if had to will do whatever it takes to use joyner, never used yet had two days lol

also looking for easy info for pulling engine, laymans terms please. Nothing in the manual I found, never saw a manual as bad on reference as the one i found, any clues about reference material, would like to pull engine and then remove tranny to see what I can really see, cause I am replacing clutch anyway so may as well look, if tranny is bad, any sites for used ones? Rebuildt or anything cheaper than new? beginning to hate this investment, and what a deal ONLY REASON WE BOUGHT , you tell me 4 new itp 30x14 tires 4 new bead lock rims, 4 newly added king nitrogen shocks, new power steering still in box, 2010 1800 miles $$$$$$$1000 PAID so I think you could not pass it up right?

home is steubenville ohio

ok we just got in from further diagnosing problem. THERE is no 4th or 5th gears and the others, 1st goes in but kind of noisy doing so, then 2nd goes in a pops back out if you don;t hold shifter and 3rd goes in but while traveling there is some noise but as soon as you let of gas and have some back resistance there is a lot of noise in transmission with any gear IF tranny is bad what are my options, can anyone rebuild these or is there used ones available, we are clueless just got into joyner yesterday

what does this post mean or you forgot to comment?

OK folks, new here cause you are suppose to be the best on knowledge. I am for reference a 60 old mechanic BUT not JOYNER, boys first one. So I was told to ask before I adventure in where I might not need to be. Just purchased a used 1100 miles 2010 joyner trooper. PROBLEM is: upon putting in gear, and letting out clutch , it seems to me right under the linkage where it goes into the top of transmission I hear like a sound in any gear, like it is not really going in fully, like a mesh problem, now we put in gear, let out clutch and buggy goes, bit you continuesly hear that noise and you know it is not suppose to be there so we stopped until I find out what might be needed. The original owner said maybe the slave cylinder , but upon lookin it does move lever in clutch everytime, every once in a while it does like stick in gear and have to pull up on clutch pedal, only happens sometimes, then shifts and still makes the noise. BUT I had him put in first dump the clutch and it stalled, so it looks like clutch is ok pad wise but thats just me saying. What do you guys recommend me do, I was advised to maybe adjust gear linkage but see no esy way explaining what a proper linkage is, so I am all ears folks, and thats from the old man................