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Posts posted by David Justice
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Yeah I still need to check the right side but both the left side upper and lower ball joints were fully engaged by their respective retaining bolt and hadn't migrated out at all. When I drilled out the lower ball joint bolt hole and upgraded the bolt to a 12 mm grade 8 bolt, I made sure that the replacement bolt's shoulder was long enough to engage the ball joint. I also had to grind a notch into the ball joint to accommodate the bolt. I'll probably just upgrade all 4 front ball joint bolts when i get a chance. What clearance are you referring to? The upgraded bolt's nut extends out a bit but isn't close to anything even with full suspension/steering travel.
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I ended up drilling the hole out and using a 12mm bolt for the lower ball joint - worked great. Everything is back together and I took it on a shakedown ride. The sound (or lack of sound) of the wheel bearing is awesome! Major thanks to Kinarfi and Lenny for their assistance.
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Hi guys, I was just wondering if anyone who pulled their ball joints had issues getting the lower ball joint retaining bolt started? I've been messing with mine for a while now and am making no headway. Thanks.
Dave
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Edit - spoke with customer service at JMC who recommended drilling out to 12 mm so I'll just do that.
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Thx Lenny.
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Hey guys I read the above referenced posts/threads and was wondering if there was a difference between the inner and outer sides of the Joyner double tapered roller bearings. I don't see any visible difference between the 2 sides.
Thanks, Dave
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Thanks for the advice guys. I now have everything on order, the old bearing is out and I degreased the housing using Dawn dish soap. Now I'm just waiting for the Loctite, bearings and seals to come in. Thanks again.
Dave
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Thanks for the quick reply Kinarfi. I'm pretty sure that the bearing is shot. There is a substantial amount of side-to-side "slop" that is visible when driving. I pulled everything apart and had a few questions:
1. Is it normal for only one side of the inner race to spin freely? Only 1 side of the the center "seam" spins by hand.
2. What kind of spindle modification must I do to use the upgraded tapered wheel bearings? If these modifications are out of the question for me, what kind of wheel bearing would you recommend that I install?
3. I assume that I just pull the rubber seals out of the way to access a C-clip holding the bearing in? Does it matter from what side I pull the bearing out on?
Thank you for your assistance. I'm really looking forward to losing that stupid raspy sound and slop that makes it seem like my wheel is about to fall off at any minute.
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Hi guys,
I am not too mechanically-savvy with the names of many common automobile components and I have a question. My 2009 Joyner Trooper T4's front left wheel "hub" feels like it has a lot of play in it (especially noticeable when going fast.) Additionally, it makes a "rasping" sound with nearly every wheel revolution. There is also an accumulation of grease under the what I assume is the outer wheel hub C/V joint boot (see photos.) What do you guys think - should I cut off the boot and examine/change the what I assume to be a bad wheel bearing and what level of maintenance is this? Thanks for the help.
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Yeah, I think a large rock must have gotten in from the back/underside of the dash and landed just right. I'll follow your guys' advice and plug that area up with some foam or cardboard. Thanks for the responses guys.
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Hi all. I just recently started taking my Trooper T4 back out into the desert here in Phoenix, AZ. I've been running on a mix of sand and rocky terrain and I've noticed an issue and I am wondering if anyone else has encountered a similar situation. The other day, I noticed that my gas pedal would stick at max throttle. It did this twice before I realized that I had a rock(s) stuck somewhere above the gas pedal. By simply repeatedly actuating the pedal it's full travel (with the motor off) small pieces of rocks would dislodge from above the pedal and the pedal would spring back to normal. I assumed that I had solved the issue but it proceeded to do the exact same thing 2 more times. The last time it happened, I dislodged a large rock. The issue hasn't repeated itself since but it did leave me wondering how that large of a rock got into that particular area. The first time this happened, I was actually stopped and the engine banged off the rev limiter a few times until I killed the ignition. The next 3 times I was hauling ass and only discovered the problem after I let off the gas and started braking. The second part of my question is, if anyone has experienced this, have they put something in the chassis to block rocks and debris from catching in this area? I have an early 2009 T4. Thanks.
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Well, we appreciate you servicemen & women, never get enough thanks,, I will be in yuma for the winter, maybe get to ride somewhere together, would be great.. Take care,,Quig, from Idaho
Thanks, I plan on being very active next year and riding everywhere that I can. I see you're from/in Twin Falls. You don't know Gordon Bibee by chance, do you?
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2010 - I was getting ready to PCS to Korea - didn't really get too much time to mess with the Joyner. Now it's sitting in my garage in Las Vegas until I return from South Korea next April. I'll be heading to Luke AFB in Arizona as a follow-on assignment so I plan on utilizing the Joyner a lot more in 2012.
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David, It is the same. This is what you need, http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10376/10002/-1?parentProductId=1231908 OR http://www.pegasusau....asp?RecID=1467 I am sure SummitRacing.com would also have it. Have order from all three and their service is EXCELLENT!
rocmoc n AZ/Baja
Awesome!! Thanks.
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I've ordered a few things and had no problems, they sent one wrong item and when I told them, they sent the correct one right out and they paid shipping and I got to keep the wrong item, brake hoses. If I had a complaint, it would be no tracking numbers and I can live with that.
If you do have a problem, mine have been corrected with a phone call.
Kinarfi.
Ok, thanks for the info Kinarfi.
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I will pull the one out of my race car and try it to see if in the Trooper. If it does, it is a standard fit. If it will any speed / race site on line can supply you with and new switch. Maybe even just the key. Watch for another post within a couple hours.
rocmoc n AZ/Baja
Thanks Roc!
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Any updates on how JMC is doing now? I need to buy a battery shut-off switch (just for the key) and I'm hesitating ordering based upon what I've read here. Thanks.
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Hi. Does anybody have an extra electrical source switch key laying around (for the switch above the battery on the Trooper). I broke mine off in the "off" position and can't find the key "head". Thanks.
Dave
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I recently got my Trooper T4 stuck in some pretty serious quicksand in the Hassayampa river near Wickenburg, AZ. The stuff looked just like hard packed sand and was pretty nasty. My question is, does anyone here have any experience with the Pull-pal or similar? http://www.pullpal.com/index.html . I tried winching to a 5' stake buried in the sand but it just ripped out of the quicksand every time and I wonder if a Pull-pal would have worked in this situation.
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Thanks for the info guys. I need to get a trailer soon (I'm so tired of having to rent U-Haul car haulers for my T4).
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Hi Kinarfi, I assume that's a custom trailer. Do you know if your friend would be willing to share any info on how he put that together? Thanks.
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Sorry if I missed this, but did anything ever get nailed down for Quartzite? I was just out that way camping, a little south in an amazing caldera range called the KOFAs (King OF AZ) that is just a little south of Quartzite. We saw tons of quads going in on our way out and I think it would be a great place to ride. Of course, it would be unbearable during the summer; winter or fall only for the most part.
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I just spoke with the dealer in Wickenburg, AZ and he says that they are getting a new facility after being closed down. He says that some of the ex-TJ employees bought out the company after the previous owner left, and that they will be up and running in a few weeks... It sounds good, but I'll take it with a grain of salt.
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Hello all,
I have a '08 Trooper T2 and am interested in making the necessary changes to keep my vehicle running for as long as it can. How do I tell if my diff. needs this upgrade? I've already changed both of the seals where the CV inserts into the diff. They were leaking due to the diff. mounting bolt coming loose...and unaware I drove around like this for awhile. When I changed the seals I propped the rear end of the trooper up on some jacks and gave it some gas so the bolt would spin in the diff. After examining the new seals while my friend hit the gas I could see the rod spinning oblong. Not sure if this part can be replaced....does this part come with the upgrade your offering Lenny.
Ditto - I have a 2009 and want to keep it going - not sure if I need the kit but I'll pay for two anyways - PM sent.
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Hmm, thanks for all the responses. I know that my odometer reads in both km and miles but I could have sworn that the odometer had a km/h with a way to switch to hours. Oh well, thanks anyways.
Roc - the km LED display is below the miles LED display on my 2009's odometer.
Projects
in Joyner UTV SxS Forum
Posted
Alas, my last project was to convert my snorkel setup back to stock configuration and trade my beloved 2009 T4 in on a brand-new 2-door, Jeep Rubicon. Sad to see it go - lots of fond memories... but I love the Jeep (especially the Jeep's shorter wheelbase.)