David Justice

Alas, my last project was to convert my snorkel setup back to stock configuration and trade my beloved 2009 T4 in on a brand-new 2-door, Jeep Rubicon. Sad to see it go - lots of fond memories... but I love the Jeep (especially the Jeep's shorter wheelbase.)

Yeah I still need to check the right side but both the left side upper and lower ball joints were fully engaged by their respective retaining bolt and hadn't migrated out at all. When I drilled out the lower ball joint bolt hole and upgraded the bolt to a 12 mm grade 8 bolt, I made sure that the replacement bolt's shoulder was long enough to engage the ball joint. I also had to grind a notch into the ball joint to accommodate the bolt. I'll probably just upgrade all 4 front ball joint bolts when i get a chance. What clearance are you referring to? The upgraded bolt's nut extends out a bit but isn't close to anything even with full suspension/steering travel. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

I ended up drilling the hole out and using a 12mm bolt for the lower ball joint - worked great. Everything is back together and I took it on a shakedown ride. The sound (or lack of sound) of the wheel bearing is awesome! Major thanks to Kinarfi and Lenny for their assistance.

Hi guys, I was just wondering if anyone who pulled their ball joints had issues getting the lower ball joint retaining bolt started? I've been messing with mine for a while now and am making no headway. Thanks. Dave Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2 Edit - spoke with customer service at JMC who recommended drilling out to 12 mm so I'll just do that.

Thx Lenny.

Hey guys I read the above referenced posts/threads and was wondering if there was a difference between the inner and outer sides of the Joyner double tapered roller bearings. I don't see any visible difference between the 2 sides. Thanks, Dave Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

Thanks for the advice guys. I now have everything on order, the old bearing is out and I degreased the housing using Dawn dish soap. Now I'm just waiting for the Loctite, bearings and seals to come in. Thanks again. Dave

Thanks for the quick reply Kinarfi. I'm pretty sure that the bearing is shot. There is a substantial amount of side-to-side "slop" that is visible when driving. I pulled everything apart and had a few questions: 1. Is it normal for only one side of the inner race to spin freely? Only 1 side of the the center "seam" spins by hand. 2. What kind of spindle modification must I do to use the upgraded tapered wheel bearings? If these modifications are out of the question for me, what kind of wheel bearing would you recommend that I install? 3. I assume that I just pull the rubber seals out of the way to access a C-clip holding the bearing in? Does it matter from what side I pull the bearing out on? Thank you for your assistance. I'm really looking forward to losing that stupid raspy sound and slop that makes it seem like my wheel is about to fall off at any minute.

Hi guys, I am not too mechanically-savvy with the names of many common automobile components and I have a question. My 2009 Joyner Trooper T4's front left wheel "hub" feels like it has a lot of play in it (especially noticeable when going fast.) Additionally, it makes a "rasping" sound with nearly every wheel revolution. There is also an accumulation of grease under the what I assume is the outer wheel hub C/V joint boot (see photos.) What do you guys think - should I cut off the boot and examine/change the what I assume to be a bad wheel bearing and what level of maintenance is this? Thanks for the help.

Yeah, I think a large rock must have gotten in from the back/underside of the dash and landed just right. I'll follow your guys' advice and plug that area up with some foam or cardboard. Thanks for the responses guys.

Hi all. I just recently started taking my Trooper T4 back out into the desert here in Phoenix, AZ. I've been running on a mix of sand and rocky terrain and I've noticed an issue and I am wondering if anyone else has encountered a similar situation. The other day, I noticed that my gas pedal would stick at max throttle. It did this twice before I realized that I had a rock(s) stuck somewhere above the gas pedal. By simply repeatedly actuating the pedal it's full travel (with the motor off) small pieces of rocks would dislodge from above the pedal and the pedal would spring back to normal. I assumed that I had solved the issue but it proceeded to do the exact same thing 2 more times. The last time it happened, I dislodged a large rock. The issue hasn't repeated itself since but it did leave me wondering how that large of a rock got into that particular area. The first time this happened, I was actually stopped and the engine banged off the rev limiter a few times until I killed the ignition. The next 3 times I was hauling ass and only discovered the problem after I let off the gas and started braking. The second part of my question is, if anyone has experienced this, have they put something in the chassis to block rocks and debris from catching in this area? I have an early 2009 T4. Thanks.

Thanks, I plan on being very active next year and riding everywhere that I can. I see you're from/in Twin Falls. You don't know Gordon Bibee by chance, do you?

2010 - I was getting ready to PCS to Korea - didn't really get too much time to mess with the Joyner. Now it's sitting in my garage in Las Vegas until I return from South Korea next April. I'll be heading to Luke AFB in Arizona as a follow-on assignment so I plan on utilizing the Joyner a lot more in 2012.

Awesome!! Thanks.