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rocmoc

What changes did you make to your Joyner in 2010 & what are you going to to in 2011?

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I did the following 2010,

Rebuilt & redesigned the cage

Added a passenger handhold

Had to replace the rear diff mounts

Rubber mounted the rear diff

Got rid of the safari deck in the rear

Moved the rear coil-over shock mounts

Add additional Fox shocks in the rear in old mounts

In 2011 I will

Add doors

Add power steering

Replace rear wheel bearings

Replace fuel tank with a Fuel Cell

Install Lenny's diff kit in front & rear diffs

rocmoc n AZ

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I did the following 2010,

Rebuilt & redesigned the cage

Added a passenger handhold

Had to replace the rear diff mounts

Rubber mounted the rear diff

Got rid of the safari deck in the rear

Moved the rear coil-over shock mounts

Add additional Fox shocks in the rear in old mounts

In 2011 I will

Add doors

Add power steering

Replace rear wheel bearings

Replace fuel tank with a Fuel Cell

Install Lenny's diff kit in front & rear diffs

rocmoc n AZ

2010

3 differant windsheilds.finally setteled on alumium frame with auto safety glass.

Adjustable passenger hand hold.

Modified seats to give a couple more inches leg room.

relocated fuel pump and filter.

Added snorkle

Top Cargo rack

Hard top,rear cab penel with window.

Canvas side panels.

15" ITP SS212 Wheels with AT Tires.

Hinged front lid.

Installed 2nd battery in parallel with main.

Relocated headlights.

Added 2 100 watt lights on brush guard.

Installed column mounted turnsignal switch.

LED idiot lights on dash(i call them that because wife says thats who installed them)

2011

Power steering

shocks

Programable ECU

Ejection passenger seat(for when the wife reminds me who installed those LEDs on the dash)

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Hinged the front hood and put a storage box under the hood. 2009

Replaced the rear shocks with FOA shocks, terrific improvement. Guess that was 2009

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2010;

Lenny & I teamed up to designed and built an electrical power steering assist unit, I still have mine installed and running good. We were going to sell them, but decided that the liability issues were too great.

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Rebuilt both differential with the stronger bolts, had to replace the rear when the bolt backed out and sheared.

Moved the over head lights back to the center of the overhead bars.

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Flipped the intake manifold upside down.

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Better cover for the forward part of the dash to keep it clean.

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Recently installed a retractable sun shield that I'm thinking of selling.

Fenders extenders all the way around; had to fix / repair the front fenders when I missed the brakes and ran over some aspen trees breaking them, so I replaced them and just kept going, they are 4 - 5 inches wider than stock and keep the mud and poop off me and out of the seats.

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Put a thicker single piece of aluminum skid plate under my trooper.

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In the process of putting a heater in, blower and heat exchanger on the front of the panel below the front of the seats.

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Put a horn button in the center of my steering wheel.

Moved the blinker up onto the dash and replace the stock switch with a bat handle switch.

Working on putting a bunch of Bright White LEDs together so I can mount them on the front, under the hood.

2011

Rebuild my engine.

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Kinarfi, why did you move the lights overhead towards the rear? I removed mine completely as I don't do dark! Headlights are enough so we ACCIDENTALLY not return before dark.

rocmoc n AZ

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Kinarfi, why did you move the lights overhead towards the rear? I removed mine completely as I don't do dark! Headlights are enough so we ACCIDENTALLY not return before dark.

rocmoc n AZ

When I used them in their original position, they lit up the hood and made it more difficult to see out into the distance. When I moved them back, I had the pictured sun screen on and by moving them back, it made it so the hood didn't get lit up so brightly.

When I bought my Trooper, I really enjoyed being able to look up at the scenery of canyons, but the pictured sun screen blocked that view, so I have made a retractable screen, but it has gotten cold and I haven't really tested it at speed yet. One of the coolest things I saw was while driving around in the mountains here was a pretty little blue Martin landed on the light bar and just sat their for about 100 yards before it flew off, that was before the sun screen was added or I wouldn't have been able to see it.

Kinarfi

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I reinforced my roll cage, and refitted the engine cover (which isn't finished yet). I plan on doing a shock upgrade to remote reservoir King Shocks. I want to rewire some of the toggles as i keep draining my battery due to forgetting to check the stock toggles. Replacement with a new toggle panel with "ON" lights will work fine. I want to put different tail lights and reconfigure the back bumper. (I've always thought it was ugly). Maybe a chip for increased HP? Over the last 6 months I was trying to sell my Trooper, but have gotton new interest in upgrading it since they opened lots of new land for class 2 vehicles. And with the news of JMC; things are looking up possibly?

post-209-091910500 1294449732_thumb.jpg

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I reinforced my roll cage, and refitted the engine cover (which isn't finished yet). I plan on doing a shock upgrade to remote reservoir King Shocks. I want to rewire some of the toggles as I keep draining my battery due to forgetting to check the stock toggles. Replacement with a new toggle panel with "ON" lights will work fine. I want to put different tail lights and reconfigure the back bumper. (I've always thought it was ugly). Maybe a chip for increased HP? Over the last 6 months I was trying to sell my Trooper, but have gotton new interest in upgrading it since they opened lots of new land for class 2 vehicles. And with the news of JMC; things are looking up possibly?

The new cars have a circuit that shuts off the battery drain if it drops below a certain voltage, and I have built one for my camper that turns off every thing if the battery voltage drops below 12.00 volts. I haven't installed it yet, but I may put one in the Trooper also. What it does is open up the line to everything, unless the key is turned on, if the voltage gets too low, (12.00 for my stuff) adjustable. Then when you turn the key on, every thing comes back, regardless of the battery voltage.

If anyone want's something like this, let me know & I'll post the schematic or if you want, I'll build you one, for a nominal fee.

Kinarfi

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bruhaw(one of our newest members)came by my house the other day and we got to talking about what mods we have done and what we want to do before the weather cools down and we can get out to do some riding.After he left i got to thinking about this thread and thought i would add my update on where i am with my 2011 expectations.Feel free to post yours.

2011

Power steering -Not yet,probably wont happen

shocks - Not yet but at top of list.

Programable ECU - Not yet,again this wont be till next year.

Ejection passenger seat(for when the wife reminds me who installed those LEDs on the dash)Not yet but this is top priority....

Things I have accomplised.

Made doors,

Purchased Lennys diff upgrade kit(still not installed)

Installed flashing amber LED lights on rear of cab enclosure for safety.

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"" Rick's quote""" Ejection passenger seat(for when the wife reminds me who installed those LEDs on the dash)Not yet but this is top priority....

"" Big talker""" :P

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"" Rick's quote""" Ejection passenger seat(for when the wife reminds me who installed those LEDs on the dash)Not yet but this is top priority....

"" Big talker""" :P

I know,I know.Figure i am safe as long as she doesnt find out about this forum.

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#1- Bought Trooper

Then:

-Drilled and tapped ball joints to 1/2 inch bolts

-Front and Rear Diff upgrades from Lenny with Kinarfi's Help

-K&N Filter

-Snorkeled filter with 2" ABS pipe/fittings to behind driver's head (Kind of cool you can hear it gulping air when it needs it)

-waterproofed my ECU box

-Steering Box Kit from Lenny (good thing as only 3 of the 6 bolts holding the top on were even still there)

-put on sport bike muffler so I can tell it apart from Kinarfi's Harley :)

-Mirrors

-Had rear cage red-done and rear seat put in so we could bring the midget along for rides (idea thanks to 2scoops "chopped liver")

-disassembled and sanded rear cage to bare metal and then coated with POR 15 and overcoat (hope this lasts well) and then re-installed

-replaced stock fuel pump as it was sticking and mounted Trick Flow EFI pump and new lines and filter

Then:

-Lost my Key

Then:

-installed toggle for ignition/accessories and push button start--never have to remember to bring my Key again :)

Oh yeah, actually have gotten a couple rides in between all the work!!!

I need to figure out how to post and link to pictures like some of you do so I can put pictures up of all my mods for all to see.

Thanks to all of you for the advice, ideas, Kits (Lenny), help (kinarfi), and general camaraderie. Hope to get lots more enjoyment out of it!

Jeff

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Well since I just got at the end of 2010 I didn't have time to do anything on it. So I will give the 2011 and 12

2011

King Shocks - made a world of difference in ride. Took a 30 mile ride before I bought it and had them changed before the next time I went out.

Snorkel / KN filter - just did after reading posts on this board. Thanks to everyone there. Did compression check to see if any damage was done. 150 on all cylinders so looking good

Autometer temp gauge - figured it out. Had posted on this but looks like no one else has put in an aftermarket so had to figure it out with the help of Casey at JMC. Need to run only one wire to Autometer sending unit. Have to use put in a new one as the stock wire doesn't let the gauge read correctly. Needed to use adapter between thermostat and engine block as you still need to use the stock sender for other engine functions. Gauge looks good and is accurate. Didn't trust the stock gauge. Reading a little over 180 and it stays there and doesn't fluctuate.

Autometer oil gauge - again didn't trust the stock gauge

Windshield from Pacific UTV - nice unit.

ITP Tires on stock wheels. Was just tearing up the stock Chinese tires

Crow 5 Point Harness Belts - got tired of the reverse engineered Joyner belts. I feel safe now with the Crow. Don't loosen up and much easier to put on.

Canvas top

2012

Power Steering

Something else will come along I am sure.

Looking forward to going on some rides with Ricksrb

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Well since I just got at the end of 2010 I didn't have time to do anything on it. So I will give the 2011 and 12

2011

King Shocks - made a world of difference in ride. Took a 30 mile ride before I bought it and had them changed before the next time I went out.

Snorkel / KN filter - just did after reading posts on this board. Thanks to everyone there. Did compression check to see if any damage was done. 150 on all cylinders so looking good

Autometer temp gauge - figured it out. Had posted on this but looks like no one else has put in an aftermarket so had to figure it out with the help of Casey at JMC. Need to run only one wire to Autometer sending unit. Have to use put in a new one as the stock wire doesn't let the gauge read correctly. Needed to use adapter between thermostat and engine block as you still need to use the stock sender for other engine functions. Gauge looks good and is accurate. Didn't trust the stock gauge. Reading a little over 180 and it stays there and doesn't fluctuate.

Autometer oil gauge - again didn't trust the stock gauge

Windshield from Pacific UTV - nice unit.

ITP Tires on stock wheels. Was just tearing up the stock Chinese tires

Crow 5 Point Harness Belts - got tired of the reverse engineered Joyner belts. I feel safe now with the Crow. Don't loosen up and much easier to put on.

Canvas top

2012

Power Steering

Something else will come along I am sure.

Looking forward to going on some rides with Ricksrb

got any photos or wiring diagrams?

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Everyone, please post pics & write-ups of your mods.

My next, not going to fix a time-frame as I would just miss it, are doors & power steering.

rocmoc n AZ

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Here are a few pics of the sending unit installed in the spacer between the thermostat housing and engine block along with the larger gauge installed in the dash. 2 5/16" Autometer Phantom Gauge.

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Am posting some pics of my trooper work this summer. There are several pics here. Have some more at home I need to add for other things. This is mainly the cage modifications I did. Thanks again to everyone for their help!

Jeff

2243710580104282158CmahVA_th.jpg

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This was the response from a follow up question to them to see if they could make one for the trooper.

"We are currently working on several side by sides, but the joyner unfortunately isn't one. I do apologize. I myself like them alot. They are a rare breed."

Thanks again for your time,

Casey,

I would think the power steering would work. They arn't designing a new unit for each application but using the same unit and designing hardware to adapt it to each vehicle. They may have a couple of different ones but any of the ones that are designed to go into the column would work. This type of power steering fits midway into the steering column shaft going to the steering box. Basicly all that is needed is to cut a piece out of the column and splice it into the column. The all that left is to run something to the unit to keep it from turning and runing 12 volts to it. If your a bit handy, it shouldn't be hard at all. I'm assuming it comes with the controller which it more then likely does. In fact, maybe they would sell just the bear power head with the controller and no mounting hardware for a discount.

Lenny

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I would think the power steering would work. They arn't designing a new unit for each application but using the same unit and designing hardware to adapt it to each vehicle. They may have a couple of different ones but any of the ones that are designed to go into the column would work. This type of power steering fits midway into the steering column shaft going to the steering box. Basicly all that is needed is to cut a piece out of the column and splice it into the column. The all that left is to run something to the unit to keep it from turning and runing 12 volts to it. If your a bit handy, it shouldn't be hard at all. I'm assuming it comes with the controller which it more then likely does. In fact, maybe they would sell just the bear power head with the controller and no mounting hardware for a discount.

Lenny

That was my thought also and i asked that.Response was just what you said,same unit just bracketts and steering shaft adapters differ.He is checking on price without those two items if at all possible to purchase that way.

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Hi Lenny,, another question for you.. I still been running rotello oil to breakin motor,as machinist told me. I change it quite often, & filter. Thinking about changing to mobil 1 synth. Or should I just stick with this, have no probs,or issues with it. Just want to know from someone who knows,, I certainly don't.. Thanks again,,Quig,

I would be very interested in power steering at decent price, just don't have any tools to build bracket to install unit, or know how..

PS, I tried to pm you Lenny, wouldn't let me?

feel free to delete this post

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Hi Lenny,, another question for you.. I still been running rotello oil to breakin motor,as machinist told me. I change it quite often, & filter. Thinking about changing to mobil 1 synth. Or should I just stick with this, have no probs,or issues with it. Just want to know from someone who knows,, I certainly don't.. Thanks again,,Quig,

I would be very interested in power steering at decent price, just don't have any tools to build bracket to install unit, or know how..

PS, I tried to pm you Lenny, wouldn't let me?

feel free to delete this post

I'll have to check if my mailbox is full. I'm not someone who necessarily knows. I just try and go with what seems to make sence engineering wise. I am confident that syntheticis are superior over conventional oils. As far as I can tell, all the racers use it because it maintains better film strength when hot. This is important in high preformance engines to prevent gauling from part to part contact. If you are running your engine on the easy side, it probably won't make much differance but if you run it hard like Kinarfi does then synthetic is going to be better. I'm not saying Kinarfi is just wildly not concerned but with his disabilities, it's hard for him to control the syncronizing of the gas and clutch well. He does a whole lot better then the rest of us would do in the same situation. But, he is hard on the engine. I would not have any problem running Rotella oil if it is synthetic. With the Trooper oil wanting to run on the hot side. I also like to run 15w50, I use Mobile1, to help the low oil pressure issue.

Lenny

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Thats what I needed to know. Machinist said ok to change to mobil 1 after rings seated. Said synthetic was too fine, too good to seat rings good.,but great to run later.. Thank You, again Lenny

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Speaking of oil pressure, what is normal. I run about 75psi at higher rpm and 25psi at idle. Thoughts?? Also, did a compression check the other day to get a baseline. Have 650 miles on it and with 3-4 cranks on a cold motor it was at 150 psi on each cylinder.

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Speaking of oil pressure, what is normal. I run about 75psi at higher rpm and 25psi at idle. Thoughts?? Also, did a compression check the other day to get a baseline. Have 650 miles on it and with 3-4 cranks on a cold motor it was at 150 psi on each cylinder.

Your fine in both oil pressure and compression.

Lenny

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