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Wheel Bearings, Again

David Justice

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Hi guys,

I am not too mechanically-savvy with the names of many common automobile components and I have a question. My 2009 Joyner Trooper T4's front left wheel "hub" feels like it has a lot of play in it (especially noticeable when going fast.) Additionally, it makes a "rasping" sound with nearly every wheel revolution. There is also an accumulation of grease under the what I assume is the outer wheel hub C/V joint boot (see photos.) What do you guys think - should I cut off the boot and examine/change the what I assume to be a bad wheel bearing and what level of maintenance is this? Thanks for the help. post-430-0-73271800-1366466059_thumb.jpgpost-430-0-46544100-1366466080_thumb.jpg

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My first thought is that you have a blown bearing which is where the rasping noise is coming from. The greasy boot is probably just a bad seal between the boot and the CV. Jack the wheel off the ground and spin the tire by hand and see if it feels like gravel in there and watch the space between the CV and the spindle on the back side, you'll see where your play is. May I suggest replacing all 4 bearings with roller bearing and before you install them, pack them clear full of good bearing grease and then add more grease around the seals and between the bearing and seals.

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Thanks for the quick reply Kinarfi. I'm pretty sure that the bearing is shot. There is a substantial amount of side-to-side "slop" that is visible when driving. I pulled everything apart and had a few questions:

1. Is it normal for only one side of the inner race to spin freely? Only 1 side of the the center "seam" spins by hand.

2. What kind of spindle modification must I do to use the upgraded tapered wheel bearings? If these modifications are out of the question for me, what kind of wheel bearing would you recommend that I install?

3. I assume that I just pull the rubber seals out of the way to access a C-clip holding the bearing in? Does it matter from what side I pull the bearing out on?

Thank you for your assistance. I'm really looking forward to losing that stupid raspy sound and slop that makes it seem like my wheel is about to fall off at any minute.




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Your question #1

If you disassemble you bearings, you'll find that the side that won't spin has busted balls in it.

Your question #3

Bearing will only come out the side with the snap ring, come out toward where the nut goes, there is a shoulder on the other side.

Your question #2

No modifications

I would recommend you contact Casey Strebe

at JMC Motors
EDITTED    3-29-2017
Joyner USA BRANDON Duruiter
and order 4 new bearings, roller of course.
4 inner seals 62 X 42 X 8 the book calls for a #3 13871-FB65X42X8 which WILL NOT FIT!!!!!
4 outer seals 65 X 45 X 8 #32 13871-FB65X45X8
These are the correct sizes, don't trust the book.
Also read at least the two following posts, or the whole thread
I would recommend you order 3 loctite 680 capsules per bearing or the 10ml bottle if your doing all 4 bearing from McMasterCarr.

680 0.02-oz. (0.5 ml) Capsule 10 min. -65° to +300° F Green 91458A121 1.77

680 0.34-oz. (10 ml) Bottle 10 min. -65° to +300° F Green 91458A122 14.81

After you disassemble, clean and regrease each bearings real good, one at a time so you cant mix parts, clean the outer race of all grease and the hub of all grease and the bearing will probably drop right in and even have enough play for a thin feeler gauge to fit in also. Add enough 680 to fill the space completely and let cure, position the hub so it is upside down so that when mounted, there is less 680 at the top than at the bottom, my theory being that weight of vehicle is supported metal to metal and the bearing is held in place by the loctite. After the loctite has set up, pack grease into the seal cavity and some around the outside of the bearing an put the seals in and assemble. Not sure if you should loctite the spindle to the inner race, as it has the all the pressure of the hub nut on it. Also, grease the splines, threads and the nut face before torquing the hub nut. To get good torque, lock the e-brake, in gear, in 4X4 with lockers in and a 3 - 5 foot cheater bar.

I checked the play on mine recently and there is still no play, yay, however, I don't image I have but maybe 500 miles at most on them.

Good luck,


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Hi guys, I was just wondering if anyone who pulled their ball joints had issues getting the lower ball joint retaining bolt started? I've been messing with mine for a while now and am making no headway. Thanks.


Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

Edit - spoke with customer service at JMC who recommended drilling out to 12 mm so I'll just do that.

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Yeah I still need to check the right side but both the left side upper and lower ball joints were fully engaged by their respective retaining bolt and hadn't migrated out at all. When I drilled out the lower ball joint bolt hole and upgraded the bolt to a 12 mm grade 8 bolt, I made sure that the replacement bolt's shoulder was long enough to engage the ball joint. I also had to grind a notch into the ball joint to accommodate the bolt. I'll probably just upgrade all 4 front ball joint bolts when i get a chance. What clearance are you referring to? The upgraded bolt's nut extends out a bit but isn't close to anything even with full suspension/steering travel.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

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  • 5 months later...

If you want top quality bearings, a Timken roller one that will fit has the number JRM3565 XD on the outer race, JRM3535A on the inner race.

I've had to use one or the other number to order the actual bearing, as it seems supply companies can't make up their mind on which number to use.

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