Neil Wilson

The guy I bought mine from found a muffler in a scrap yard that fits the output pipe of the stock muffler. Just a clamp and a bracket to support it is all it took to add it on. Adding a muffler is no big deal. Check the size of the muffler pipe to find the size to search. There is lots of stuff out there.

3 hours ago, mixfixdave said:

I believe the problem is that at higher rpm’s, the chery 1100 doesn’t have enough water flow capability to dissipate the heat.
Problem is not with the radiator or airflow, it’s related to the water passage sizes inside the engine.
I can hammer at 55 for a while, but eventually have to slow down to 40mph and let the temp gauge come back down.
No problems off-road though.

It puzzles me that Joyner would not have seen the vehicles have overheating issues from their testing prior to issuing them for sale. Also some on the forum say they have no issues. I don't know what to believe. Is it a fundamental deficiency or is there something wrong with my machine? I really doubt I have a bad water pump and I have replaced everything else aside from the radiator itself,  so it is looking like it is a fundamental deficiency. That would explain why I see some machines with the radiator mounted behind the cab. I wish it were a problem I could solve with parts but it looks like I'll have to retrofit a different radiator. If the engine is incapable of circulating enough coolant then there is no solution whatsoever and I am stuck with a machine that can't be fixed.

I installed a 2400 cfm fan to see if it solves the problem. It does not. Next step is a new water pump which is en-route from China.

On 10/24/2020 at 3:05 PM, Neil Wilson said:

I had suspicions about the gage after an attempt to solve this problem had no impact. I confirmed this by running the machine until the temperature gage was well into the red zone and then measured the temperature of the thermostat housing with an infrared thermometer. The true temperature was 198. Thus the machine is not overheating at all. So the cooling system is fine, it is the gage or the sensor. I wonder about all the machines I've seen where the owners relocated the radiator to behind the cab. Maybe they didn't have a problem at all. 

Anyone who is contemplating moving the radiator should first check the gage.

I ran some more tests using the infrared thermometer. The engine is overheating after all. I've checked everything I can and tried so e of the fixes here. Rather than move the radiator up into the wind, I brought the wind to the radiator using a couple of 4in pvc pipes. That made no difference. My next step is a stronger fan 2400 cfm for $40. After that a new water pump from China. Joyner wants $250 for a pump. China has them for less than $50 shipped. Worth the 3-4 week wait.

On 7/7/2012 at 6:51 PM, Lenny said:

Some of the Troopers seem to have heating problems and other seem to not. Thinking it must be some have some blockage like casting flashing or something inhibiting coolant flow. Adding more fan can help. Moving the radiator up in the air flow helps. As stock there are a couple of design problems. First the fan has a plastic couling which forms a tunnel that the fan blades set in. This plastic round tunnel extends almost all the way to the radiator, like to within 1/4". Some later models have more clearance. Problem with this is that it all but eliminates the corners of the radiator from air flow. First thing is to open up this 1/4" space to at least 1" or more. couple of inches is better.You can trim the couling some but you will also have to space the fan out some. The other problem is that the fan is after the radiator. A fan has a vacume side and a pressure side. The pressure side is where the denser air is and denser air cools better. The fan should be on the inside of the radiator, pushing air thru it. I went to a much bigger radiator and a 3000 cfm fan. I also moved the radiator back to up against the vertical frame bars and put the fan on the inside. I also made a custom shroud to go from the fan to the radiator for complete area flow. Mine gets to about 185 degrees and never budges no matter how i drive it. It just stays rock steady at one temp. And that is cooling for 121 hp. I ran it hard at the Jamboree and the weather was really hot, into the 100s. I tend to go to extreams on things partially because I want it lthe best it can be but also because I have a complete shop which allows me to do things that otherwise would be cost prohibitive for most.

Here is what I sujest. Move the radiator back, this is quite easy. Get a good 3000cfm fan off Ebay, not too expensive, and mount it to the inside of the radiator to blow thru it. Get some 16 gague aluminum sheet from the scrap yard and fashon a shroud that gives a good spread of the air thru the radiator.

See 7 pictures of what I did. The shroud was 1/8" aluminum welded to the radiator then the 16 gauge sheet hand formed and rivited.. First picture shows size difference.

http://thumb12.webshots.net/t/87/187/6/12/32/2529612320104928832zFKacA_th.jpg

Lenny

After reading this post I decided to try moving the fan to the engine side of the radiator and reversed the fan. It makes NO difference.

On 12/28/2020 at 8:11 PM, mixfixdave said:

I found some steering rack and pinion boots that work for the Trooper 1100!
Post up if you are looking.

These boots were a life saver for me. Thanks so much for sharing. I had a problem with the Joyner boot clamps not holding the boots on. They would slide off the steering box. To fix it I added some strips of leather under the clamp straps to make them tighter. So far it is working.

11 hours ago, mmckendree said:

Look at the parts catalog for the part number and do a web search for the part number. If they are standard parts you will often find non-Joyner vendors selling them. If they are specific to Joyner machines sometimes you will find them on Alliexpress. Also if the part is used on other brands or models you might get hits on those.

Cons: Electrical system has been a problem. Fuse box has corrosion, short somewhere between lights and 4wd switch. Electrical system is exposed to water. Fuel gage is wrong, temp gage is wrong, Oil pressure light comes on at idle. Battery is draining after a few days. New ball joints worn out in just a few rides, no grease zirks. Rattles and bangs on rough stuff.  Sloppy steering box. 4wd switch cycles randomly. Have to remove seat belts to get to tool box under seat. Parts hard to get. Gutless engine. Shocks can't be rebuilt.

Pros: cheap to buy. No drive belts.

On 10/6/2008 at 1:48 PM, Kinarfi said:

CV Boot Kit There appears to be a difference between inner and outer boots, I used a NAPA CVB6862340 for my outer rear, fit good but not tightly on the CV end, I held it on with Tyraps
Autozone part # 03606. Comes with bands and grease for $11.99, quick/split boot. K2181 95 Geo Metro $15.99
NAPA #686-2149 fits for the Troopers inner CV. It's a speck tight but only about 1/16".(Lenny)
Napa 686-2181 CV Boot from a 95 Geo Metro.
http://www.norrecind...tart=1&cat=1394 or
Norrec Industries then Application, then UTV, then look up joyner, they have them all
Polaris CV Boot Kit # 2203438, (PR-8061)
Also see CV boot for driveline? - UTV BOARD - Side X Side and UTV Forum

The Norrec boots are too small for the Trooper T2. I got the NAPA #686-2149 which were good quality and fit. These were for the inner front axles. Don't buy the boots from Joyner. Mine split after 2 rides.

So far all is good. I think you can get one cheaper form China if you can wait a few weeks for shipping.

No thoughts about Moto Doctor. One more suggestion: get some starting fluid and spray it into the intake. I'm sure from your small engine experience you know how that works.

One technique you can try is to pull the injector rail and point the injectors at a cloth while cranking the engine. If the spray is inconsistent you know it is an injector. If all are firing good, borrow a fuel pressure gage from the local parts store and check your fuel pressure at the injector rail. If that is good you can eliminate fuel and look at ignition and compression. Pulling plug wires can help find cylinders that aren't firing.

I bought a new electronic control unit (ECU) for my 2008 trooper t2 just to eliminate the unit as a factor in solving an electrical problem. Turns out the problem was not the ecu so my old one is still good. If anyone needs one let me know. I'll sell it for $50.

So far so good. I was having issues with overheating but it turns out the sensor or gage is wrong. I've checked it with an infrared thermometer and it runs around 200 deg. at 60 mph even though the gage is fully in the red. Last weekend my tail lights and overhead front lights stopped working so now I am back to solving electrical issues. I am happy with the machine overall now that I've solved the engine problems.

On 10/29/2020 at 3:26 PM, Yourname said:

Thanks for the reply I just got a new fpr in today so swapping that now I will check all that you’ve mentioned much appreciated!!

You should be able to borrow a fuel pressure tester from your local auto parts store. Connect it between the pressure regulator and the injector rail. That is the sure way to know what is happening at the injector rail.

I had suspicions about the gage after an attempt to solve this problem had no impact. I confirmed this by running the machine until the temperature gage was well into the red zone and then measured the temperature of the thermostat housing with an infrared thermometer. The true temperature was 198. Thus the machine is not overheating at all. So the cooling system is fine, it is the gage or the sensor. I wonder about all the machines I've seen where the owners relocated the radiator to behind the cab. Maybe they didn't have a problem at all. 

Anyone who is contemplating moving the radiator should first check the gage.

I replaced the thermostat and changed the coolant to ensure it was fresh 50/50 mix. Still overheats. My conclusion at this point is the cooling system design is inadequate. I've seen several machines on 4 sale boards with the radiator relocated up behind the cab. This tells me the problem is common and the owners had to change the configuration to solve it. Don't waste your time and money on trying to make it work with the stock configuration. You'll need to upgrade the components or reconfigure it.

On 7/7/2012 at 6:51 PM, Lenny said:

As stock there are a couple of design problems. First the fan has a plastic couling which forms a tunnel that the fan blades set in. This plastic round tunnel extends almost all the way to the radiator, like to within 1/4". Some later models have more clearance. Problem with this is that it all but eliminates the corners of the radiator from air flow. First thing is to open up this 1/4" space to at least 1" or more. couple of inches is better.You can trim the couling some but you will also have to space the fan out some. The other problem is that the fan is after the radiator.

In case anyone finds this thread, I have the overheating problem at high speeds (50+ mph). I tried adding space between the radiator and the fan as suggested here. I made a spacer out of 3/4" x 3/4" wood sticks that I found in the Home Depot molding dept. It does seem to help as it takes a little longer to overheat now, but it has not solved the problem. I've tried bleeding the radiator by running it up to temp with the back end elevated. No improvement. I did not see the coolant flowing inside the radiator as I was bleeding it so I suspect the thermostat is not opening properly. Oddly it doesn't overheat any other time, only at sustained high speeds. A stuck thermostat would cause overheating at low speeds too.  Even so I'll replace the thermostat just in case.

On 9/5/2020 at 4:25 PM, Shaky Jake said:

Still sounds like bad grounding....just saying

Shaky Jake, it looks you had it right. I took it to a shop and they found the ground at the starter motor was loose. Apparently I forgot to tighten the nut when I installed the starter. I must have gotten distracted when I was in the process and lost track of what I had done. I tested it today for an hour or more and it ran flawlessly. Will need a few more runs to be sure it is fixed.

I saw a few at that price as well so no need to get one from China. Thank you for the help.

Strange. The part number in the parts manual is for the first one.

How did you find the Amazon part? Is there a part number for the Chery engine? I would rather buy one from China since parts are usually are about 5-10x cheaper.

Anyway I appreciate your help on the forum Dan.

I bought a new oil pressure sending unit for my 2008 Trooper T2 (see first picture attached). When I went to install it I found out the sensor on my machine looks like the sensor for a Renegade (see second picture attached). Has anyone ever seen this? I know this is not a retro fit since because the threaded tube that connects it to the engine is a much smaller diameter than the stock part.

What is the proper part number for the unit so I can get a replacement?

19 hours ago, mixfixdave said:

Have you tried swapping the engine, fuel pump and fan relays...may help eliminate a bad relay?

So the fan, engine and fuel pump relays are identical. I tried swapping them around and it makes no difference. Assuming at least one of them is good, I don't think it is the relays.

PS,  I see now you already suggested this. 

As I am continuing my research I've learned there can be problems when the fuel pressure is too high. I know these machines should have about 50 psi going to the injectors. When I measured the pressure with a tester I was getting 100 psi. My pressure regulator is showing about 70 psi (evidently it is not accurate). As I have noted before, the engine runs fine when it runs, so I don't think this is the problem. However I am thinking I need to adjust the regulator.

No question there are some unknowns with the electrical system. I have to think the machine was working for the previous owner up to some point. Otherwise he would have undone whatever mods he did. The exception is if something had deteriorated to a point where he realized the cost to fix it was more than he wanted to deal with and he passed it off to me without telling me. The problem has definitely gotten worse since I got the machine, or at least the since the last incident. Again, the speedometer issue that has occurred has me thinking it is related.