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Neil Wilson

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About Neil Wilson

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  • Location Cottonwood, AZ, USA

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  1. I had suspicions about the gage after an attempt to solve this problem had no impact. I confirmed this by running the machine until the temperature gage was well into the red zone and then measured the temperature of the thermostat housing with an infrared thermometer. The true temperature was 198. Thus the machine is not overheating at all. So the cooling system is fine, it is the gage or the sensor. I wonder about all the machines I've seen where the owners relocated the radiator to behind the cab. Maybe they didn't have a problem at all. Anyone who is contemplating moving the radiator should first check the gage.
  2. I replaced the thermostat and changed the coolant to ensure it was fresh 50/50 mix. Still overheats. My conclusion at this point is the cooling system design is inadequate. I've seen several machines on 4 sale boards with the radiator relocated up behind the cab. This tells me the problem is common and the owners had to change the configuration to solve it. Don't waste your time and money on trying to make it work with the stock configuration. You'll need to upgrade the components or reconfigure it.
  3. Shaky Jake, it looks you had it right. I took it to a shop and they found the ground at the starter motor was loose. Apparently I forgot to tighten the nut when I installed the starter. I must have gotten distracted when I was in the process and lost track of what I had done. I tested it today for an hour or more and it ran flawlessly. Will need a few more runs to be sure it is fixed.
  4. I saw a few at that price as well so no need to get one from China. Thank you for the help.
  5. Strange. The part number in the parts manual is for the first one. How did you find the Amazon part? Is there a part number for the Chery engine? I would rather buy one from China since parts are usually are about 5-10x cheaper. Anyway I appreciate your help on the forum Dan.
  6. I bought a new oil pressure sending unit for my 2008 Trooper T2 (see first picture attached). When I went to install it I found out the sensor on my machine looks like the sensor for a Renegade (see second picture attached). Has anyone ever seen this? I know this is not a retro fit since because the threaded tube that connects it to the engine is a much smaller diameter than the stock part. What is the proper part number for the unit so I can get a replacement?
  7. So the fan, engine and fuel pump relays are identical. I tried swapping them around and it makes no difference. Assuming at least one of them is good, I don't think it is the relays. PS, I see now you already suggested this.
  8. As I am continuing my research I've learned there can be problems when the fuel pressure is too high. I know these machines should have about 50 psi going to the injectors. When I measured the pressure with a tester I was getting 100 psi. My pressure regulator is showing about 70 psi (evidently it is not accurate). As I have noted before, the engine runs fine when it runs, so I don't think this is the problem. However I am thinking I need to adjust the regulator.
  9. No question there are some unknowns with the electrical system. I have to think the machine was working for the previous owner up to some point. Otherwise he would have undone whatever mods he did. The exception is if something had deteriorated to a point where he realized the cost to fix it was more than he wanted to deal with and he passed it off to me without telling me. The problem has definitely gotten worse since I got the machine, or at least the since the last incident. Again, the speedometer issue that has occurred has me thinking it is related.
  10. Actually I just replaced both switches which had deteriorated. The pump is working fine as can be shown by the pressure at the injector rail.
  11. One more clue may be the PCV. The previous owner has disconnected the hoses to the fuel recovery canister. The ends of the hoses are plugged. The PCV is still connected to the wire harness so as far as I know it is still providing a functional signal to the ECU. Since the problem is intermittent I can't see why the engine would ever function properly if there were a problem here. Why would it work sometimes and not others?
  12. As far as I can tell all the grounds look solid at the battery and chassis by the ECU. I don't know where else to check. What do you recommend?
  13. I am wondering about the fuel pump relay. The previous owner bypassed the pump and fan relays and hotwired them to toggle switches. This was because he had problems with corrosion in the fuse box. In my review of the ECU and injector system I see the injectors are wired to the pump relay. I don't understand why. I don't know if there is a way to test the relay or the circuit. Any ideas? PS, I am getting good pressure at the injector rail so I know the pump and pressure regulator are doing their jobs.
  14. Still can't figure out what is wrong. I've recently replaced the ECU and the IAT/MAP sensor but the problem persists (I have also ordered a CO2 sensor but it hasn't arrived yet). I've replaced the fuel pump and have tested the pressure and checked the injectors so I know it is not a fuel issue. I know it has spark. I know it has air (bypassed the air filter). I know it has compression (tested). When it runs it runs fine so I know all the fundamentals are there. My only conclusion is it is a bad sensor or a bad wire. The last time I drove it the speedometer gauge started jumping erratically as I drove. There were no other symptoms in the machine as I drove so I decided I would deal with it later and ignored it. After an hour or so of driving is suddenly just crapped out on a road. I got it to fire up a couple of times and had to give it throttle to keep it going but then it would sputter and die. Eventually I could not get it started at all so I towed it home. I let it sit overnight and tried again the next day and still no go. That is when I decided it would be cheaper to start replacing parts to eliminate as many possibilities as practical. After sitting for a week or so the machine started again but I have to give it throttle to get it started. Once it starts it runs rough and wants to stall when I give it throttle. After a few seconds of coaxing it to stay running it settles down and behaves normally. At first the speed gauge acts erratic as before, but after the engine stabilizes it drops to zero and stays there, though it still jumps every so often. I want to believe the speed gauge symptom is related but in the past the gauge was fine when the machine would act up. I've studied the EFI system in the manual and I see there are ways to test all the sensors, but in some cases it requires inserting a meter into the wiring system at the ECU. I don't have a means to do that. Also I cannot find a diagnostic port in the wiring system so there is no way to run diagnostics. I am at a point where I have to tow it to a local shop and pay them to see if they can figure it out, which without a diagnostic port and lack of familiarity with these machines I suspect is going to be futile. I could order all the rest of the sensors from China and wait another month or so to get them and replace all the sensors and see if that solves it. If that fails then I am left with replacing the wire harnesses which I am not able to do. That will be a very expensive solution if I have buy the harnesses and to pay a shop to install them. The final option is to just sell it as a mechanic special and take a huge loss.


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