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Neil Wilson

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  1. After reading this post I decided to try moving the fan to the engine side of the radiator and reversed the fan. It makes NO difference.
  2. Cons: Electrical system has been a problem. Fuse box has corrosion, short somewhere between lights and 4wd switch. Electrical system is exposed to water. Fuel gage is wrong, temp gage is wrong, Oil pressure light comes on at idle. Battery is draining after a few days. New ball joints worn out in just a few rides, no grease zirks. Rattles and bangs on rough stuff. Sloppy steering box. 4wd switch cycles randomly. Have to remove seat belts to get to tool box under seat. Parts hard to get. Gutless engine. Shocks can't be rebuilt. Pros: cheap to buy. No drive belts.
  3. So far all is good. I think you can get one cheaper form China if you can wait a few weeks for shipping.
  4. No thoughts about Moto Doctor. One more suggestion: get some starting fluid and spray it into the intake. I'm sure from your small engine experience you know how that works.
  5. One technique you can try is to pull the injector rail and point the injectors at a cloth while cranking the engine. If the spray is inconsistent you know it is an injector. If all are firing good, borrow a fuel pressure gage from the local parts store and check your fuel pressure at the injector rail. If that is good you can eliminate fuel and look at ignition and compression. Pulling plug wires can help find cylinders that aren't firing.
  6. I bought a new electronic control unit (ECU) for my 2008 trooper t2 just to eliminate the unit as a factor in solving an electrical problem. Turns out the problem was not the ecu so my old one is still good. If anyone needs one let me know. I'll sell it for $50.
  7. So far so good. I was having issues with overheating but it turns out the sensor or gage is wrong. I've checked it with an infrared thermometer and it runs around 200 deg. at 60 mph even though the gage is fully in the red. Last weekend my tail lights and overhead front lights stopped working so now I am back to solving electrical issues. I am happy with the machine overall now that I've solved the engine problems.
  8. You should be able to borrow a fuel pressure tester from your local auto parts store. Connect it between the pressure regulator and the injector rail. That is the sure way to know what is happening at the injector rail.
  9. I had suspicions about the gage after an attempt to solve this problem had no impact. I confirmed this by running the machine until the temperature gage was well into the red zone and then measured the temperature of the thermostat housing with an infrared thermometer. The true temperature was 198. Thus the machine is not overheating at all. So the cooling system is fine, it is the gage or the sensor. I wonder about all the machines I've seen where the owners relocated the radiator to behind the cab. Maybe they didn't have a problem at all. Anyone who is contemplating moving the radiator should first check the gage.
  10. I replaced the thermostat and changed the coolant to ensure it was fresh 50/50 mix. Still overheats. My conclusion at this point is the cooling system design is inadequate. I've seen several machines on 4 sale boards with the radiator relocated up behind the cab. This tells me the problem is common and the owners had to change the configuration to solve it. Don't waste your time and money on trying to make it work with the stock configuration. You'll need to upgrade the components or reconfigure it.
  11. Shaky Jake, it looks you had it right. I took it to a shop and they found the ground at the starter motor was loose. Apparently I forgot to tighten the nut when I installed the starter. I must have gotten distracted when I was in the process and lost track of what I had done. I tested it today for an hour or more and it ran flawlessly. Will need a few more runs to be sure it is fixed.

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