Neil Wilson

The guy I bought mine from found a muffler in a scrap yard that fits the output pipe of the stock muffler. Just a clamp and a bracket to support it is all it took to add it on. Adding a muffler is no big deal. Check the size of the muffler pipe to find the size to search. There is lots of stuff out there.

It puzzles me that Joyner would not have seen the vehicles have overheating issues from their testing prior to issuing them for sale. Also some on the forum say they have no issues. I don't know what to believe. Is it a fundamental deficiency or is there something wrong with my machine? I really doubt I have a bad water pump and I have replaced everything else aside from the radiator itself, so it is looking like it is a fundamental deficiency. That would explain why I see some machines with the radiator mounted behind the cab. I wish it were a problem I could solve with parts but it looks like I'll have to retrofit a different radiator. If the engine is incapable of circulating enough coolant then there is no solution whatsoever and I am stuck with a machine that can't be fixed.

I installed a 2400 cfm fan to see if it solves the problem. It does not. Next step is a new water pump which is en-route from China.

I ran some more tests using the infrared thermometer. The engine is overheating after all. I've checked everything I can and tried so e of the fixes here. Rather than move the radiator up into the wind, I brought the wind to the radiator using a couple of 4in pvc pipes. That made no difference. My next step is a stronger fan 2400 cfm for $40. After that a new water pump from China. Joyner wants $250 for a pump. China has them for less than $50 shipped. Worth the 3-4 week wait.

After reading this post I decided to try moving the fan to the engine side of the radiator and reversed the fan. It makes NO difference.

Cons: Electrical system has been a problem. Fuse box has corrosion, short somewhere between lights and 4wd switch. Electrical system is exposed to water. Fuel gage is wrong, temp gage is wrong, Oil pressure light comes on at idle. Battery is draining after a few days. New ball joints worn out in just a few rides, no grease zirks. Rattles and bangs on rough stuff. Sloppy steering box. 4wd switch cycles randomly. Have to remove seat belts to get to tool box under seat. Parts hard to get. Gutless engine. Shocks can't be rebuilt. Pros: cheap to buy. No drive belts.

So far all is good. I think you can get one cheaper form China if you can wait a few weeks for shipping.

No thoughts about Moto Doctor. One more suggestion: get some starting fluid and spray it into the intake. I'm sure from your small engine experience you know how that works.

One technique you can try is to pull the injector rail and point the injectors at a cloth while cranking the engine. If the spray is inconsistent you know it is an injector. If all are firing good, borrow a fuel pressure gage from the local parts store and check your fuel pressure at the injector rail. If that is good you can eliminate fuel and look at ignition and compression. Pulling plug wires can help find cylinders that aren't firing.

I bought a new electronic control unit (ECU) for my 2008 trooper t2 just to eliminate the unit as a factor in solving an electrical problem. Turns out the problem was not the ecu so my old one is still good. If anyone needs one let me know. I'll sell it for $50.

So far so good. I was having issues with overheating but it turns out the sensor or gage is wrong. I've checked it with an infrared thermometer and it runs around 200 deg. at 60 mph even though the gage is fully in the red. Last weekend my tail lights and overhead front lights stopped working so now I am back to solving electrical issues. I am happy with the machine overall now that I've solved the engine problems.

You should be able to borrow a fuel pressure tester from your local auto parts store. Connect it between the pressure regulator and the injector rail. That is the sure way to know what is happening at the injector rail.