Quantcast
Jump to content

Bret4207

Members
  • Content Count

    15
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Bret4207

  • Rank
    Member
  • Location Gouverneur, NY, USA

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Bret4207

    Bret4207

  2. This one indicates red line at 9K. 4k is about 30MPH in hi range. This isn't how it used to perform at all. I've never had it over 40 or maybe 6500 rpm myself, but something is definitely wrong.
  3. Yup, but using a relay with a diode to prevent juice flowing back to the coils is fairly new, and when the relay or diode gets messed up they can back feed juice to the coils and that fries the coils- or so I'm told. A plain old kill switch out of the factory loop seems to be working, just as it did back int he day.
  4. Put in the new plug for the Coleman/Hisun. Got it started. It's still sputtering even at idle and going down the road I get to about 5500 RPM and it's like a rev limiter kicks in. I thought maybe it wasn't getting warm enough so set the pedal to a high idle around 3K for 1/2 a hour. The temp gauge came up one bar, but it didn't change the sputtering. I did get a 30 second video I'll try to pass along later. Got to take a kid Christmas shopping. I hate shopping!
  5. Cliffy, that set up is on a Briggs Vanguard, not the Hisun/Coleman. We just got off on a tangent. The Briggs had the same set up only they used a relay where I use a toggle. Thanks for the thoughts though!
  6. Got the new injector into the Coleman. Fouled the plug out right off. Seems to be putting a crap load of fuel in the cylinder. These things have a choke? The shop manual refers to it, but it's so hard to get to everything I' haven't investigated yet. Picked up 2 new plugs yesterday PM, we'll try it later. Everything seems clear in air intake for those that suggested looking there.
  7. At this point the 2 coils are not connected to anything but a ho'made kill wire run to a toggle switch and to ground on the engine block. Pulling the shrouding to access the coils involves diassembling both sides of the drive train. I should have cut the shroud horizontally last time I had to do this!
  8. Gotcha. The issue is with determining whether or not, and just where, the diode is and if it's "leaky" as one tech told me. I don't know how a diode can leak, it's all magic to me, but he says it can happen. I initially thought the kill wire was leaky back through the diode, even though it tested good, but now you've given me other places the fault can occur. For me it's figuring out which little solid state, molded doo-hicky is the offending culprit. Why they need multiple relays, and then some of relay numbers don't appear on anyones parts list, is beyond me.
  9. OT, I know, but the Vanguard problem is rectified. I cleaned up some electrical connectors and I tested the plugs. Had decent fire with a white spark every now and then but I could see the spark on one plug jump to the side pretty often instead of arcing at the tip on the rear side plug. Went to town and picked up the next heat range hotter NGKs. Started right up and ran fine. I'm not sure why a fouled plug(s?) would cause a backfire situation mimicking an out of time/coil issue, but there you have it. I'm counting my blessings as tearing that thing out of the machine is a pain! I'
  10. Yup, I bypassed that kill wire diode, ran a line direct to ground through a simple toggle switch for a kill. I stupidly used a spade end connector and it came off a couple times. That might have done some coil damage. I should get more than 2-3 hours run time out of a set of coils!
  11. Thanks Ben and others! I'll see what I can do and get back to you. Ben, interesting you mention the larger B+S engines. I have a 23hp Vanguard in a skid steer that eats coils. Have to pull the engine to change them. Traced to a (likely) feed back of power to coils through kill switch system. Bypassed that and went with a simple toggle kill switch and it WAS working fine. But my 18 year old was using it and now it's a no start as in the past. This might be a "Dad only" machine!
  12. Thanks Neil, I have a new injector on the way. I will run the test as suggested before changing anything. One question you all may be willing to comment on- I've heard good things about products from "Motorcylce Doctor" as regards this machine. I see he has injectors at near $70.00 and other places they are down in the $10.00 each category. Does anyone know if the more expensive ones are actually better? Motorcycle Doctor" states his are "Hisun factory" in his ad, but that they've used these in Rhinos or Mules or something and had good luck. I know nothing about them, thoughts?
  13. Thanks for the thoughts Ben. Some of that is well beyond my comfort and knowledge zone, but it gives me a place to start. I did put a new plug in it but that's the one that fouled so bad, it was an NGK number specified in the manual and was the same as the one in it. I'll check the intake side. Getting beyond that and into the sensor testing is a bit beyond my experience level with modern electronics (face it, I'm old) and I would sort of need to see how it's done. If you know of any tutorials, I'd sure appreciate a link. Thanks again for your in depth post!
  14. Thanks for the replies. Yes, I've done the oil change, quite a trick that first time, I got a different style filter wrench that works good at an auto parts store. Found a great deal of RTV type trash floating in the drain oil the first change! QA doesn't seem to be a big thing with the Chinese builders. We keep the drivers seat belt connected all the time. It's worth a check, though it doesn't act the same as when I used to forget to buckle it. FWIW, I was just contacted by Coleman offering to send the machine to another shop 2 hours away. They are trying I guess.

×
×
  • Create New...