Rob DeVido

4 hours ago, Rainman said:

I had jacked my rear up and tried spinning my wheels and there was a bit of resistance, as well as the wheels not spinning as they would on a car. Took the wheels off and tried spinning the soleplates and it was really hard to turn. It this normal or could the hub nuts be too tight? On vehicles I've worked on, wheels spin easily, but I know this is a different animal, something I've never worked on. So with that said, should the wheels/soleplates spin freely with many turns?

This is all to to me as well, I can't say I know the answer to that, wish I did though. When I turned the soleplate I noticed the squeak. I did like I said and noticed the squeak went away.  At that point I was happy and unfortunately I didn't really pay attention to how freely it spun. I am going to need to do some maintenance here soon as I'm starting to hear the squeak again, its not as bad , but its there. It could be just in need of some cleaning.

good stuff, thanks for doing this!

Coleman reps out hear don't get back to you they are terrible, I'll just build one. I could try to phone but something tells me I'll get no where with that to.

yeah I thinking it was a combination of over torqued and crud

The parking park was fine with mine, but backed it off just a tad anyway. What solved the squeak  was  I was removed the wheels one at a time , turned the soleplate by hand and found that the front left ( drivers side) one squeaked . I loosened and re torqued the  hub nut and sprayed brake cleaner to clean any debris  and the squeal stopped and has not returned. Thanks everyone for their help and input! This pic from Robert B helped

chupac

2 hours ago, aefron88 said:

I was under the rig playing today so I decided to adjust the parking brake just to make sure it was ok, since I've read a couple people having them adjusted too tight from the factory.

First picture is the parking brake disc & caliper from the passenger side. Second picture is the adjustment bolt.

How it works: it's a cable operated disc brake with a locking pawl to hold it where you push the pedal to.

Procedure: The pad tightness is adjusted by moving the bolt in the 2nd picture in and out. When you tighten it it pushes the pads together. The extra nut on it is a lock nut.

Using a 13mm wrench loosen the lock nut. Back it off about halfway just so it's out of the way. Next tighten the bolt by hand until it stops. From there back it off about a half turn. Push the parking brake and make sure the pedal "locks up" before running out of travel. If it doesn't adjust the bolt slightly tighter and try it again. Once you're happy with the adjustment tighten the lock nut while keeping the bolt stationary.

good stuff thanks ! did you find it tight, or was it ok on yours

5 hours ago, Robert B said:

I had Front left brake squeak. Removed wheel to investigate and found hub nut loose. Torqued to specs as close as I could, and that seems to have cured brake squeak problem.

Good stuff .....thank you!

13 hours ago, aefron88 said:

There are actually 5 disc brakes on these machines. 1 for each wheel and 1 on the rear driveshaft for the parking brake.

I've read several complaints of the parking brake one being too tight from the factory so I would check the cable and make sure there's a little slack when the parking brake is released.

If that is good I would jack up each corner Individually and spin the wheel to listen for noise and feel for dragging. That should help pinpoint where the issue is.

Thanks, next time we are at the lake I'll check this out....appreciate the response.

14 hours ago, Travis said:

Drum brakes i'm assuming?

jack up the rear end (and take it out of 4WD if equipped) and see if it makes the noise with the rear end off the ground. if it does then its probably your rear brakes making the noise.

how long ago did you buy the machine?

Thanks for the response!!   The machine is still new , we have about 6 miles on her. We bought her to take out to the lake  last year, finally got around to it .

So my Coleman since the day we got it has this annoying squeaking sound when moving along slowly ,  its sounds like it 's in the front and the back, but not sure if its just the sound carry along the botton. If you apply the breaks  it gets louder, go up to speed and the noise goes away. It sounds like the breaks , but I can't see anything., its metal on metal sound, I'm  just clueless as to what or where. Has anyone else had this issue?  if so do you have a fix. If not does anyone now what it is?  I'm trying to load a video, if successful , you can hear the sound, along with my comment that's it the breaks, but I really have no idea, The important thing is you'll be able to hear the sound , I would appreciate any advice or guidance on the fix.  Thanks

Thank you sir!!  props to you for the solution!

Re the modified shift lever, is this something that maybe someone can do themselves? , what does the modified one look like?, would appreciate it if a pic was posted, would be be very helpful

On 6/23/2022 at 6:10 AM, aefron88 said:

I attached a screenshot from the manual of some grease points (steering knuckle, steering shaft, and sway bars).

In addition to those pictured both driveshafts have greasable u-joints and I believe the upper/lower a-arms have grease points on the frame side.

Thank you , this a big help , I knew I was missing some. How did I miss this in the manual...wow!   appreciate the response , thanks again

great tip on the shifter , thanks. BTW how many grease zerks are there?, just want to make sure I get them all!

Hi all! I have an annoying metal on metal sound coming from the back end at slow speeds, this thing is still pretty new less than 100 miles. I went on the hunt for the  grease fitting in the back but could only find 2 and the were fine , but I was thinking there must be more. While I was at it I also checked the front  and again only found 2 . Is that all there is and if not does anyone have a drawing  or can tell me where the others  are? I went through the manual and there is nothing on  them and can't seem to find anything on line about them. I was thinking it could also be the breaks, as the sound gets a little louder when you apply the breaks,  but its still like new or  maybe the parking break isn't fully disengaging.   Anyway , thought I would start with the grease first, Appreciate any help with this.

Thanks

Rob

I went through the process  and tried it the Coleman way , and while it was better , it skipped out a couple of times . So I was thinking about what Cliff  did and  I went at that way , the linkage was off, okay that explains the problem,  so I adjusted it again and it was waaay better , a little tweak and problem gone , she runs great again!!  
Thanks for all the great detail you provided Cliff ! Couldn’t of done it without it . 

mmmm...thanks Cliff, I'll be attempting this tomorrow...hope it solves my issue. I sometimes have it happening in forward and reverse, but mainly reverse. I'll give Coleman's instruction a try first, if that fails I'll try your way, either way I hope if fixes the issue....fingers crossed .  Thanks for the update!

Thanks for the replies, I’m finding out its okay to go with GL-5 in both places, GL-5 is the new tech  and can be used in place of GL-4. You cant however use the GL-4 in place of GL-5.

Hi all! glad to be here! I'm new to the world of UTV's ,side by side's  what ever the right term to use is.LOL  I have a Coleman 400UTV-5 and the family and I love it so far. I have lots to learn about it regarding maintenance and use, so get use to possibly getting a lot of questions. I'll try my best to limit them and some may be even silly/stupid questions and I'll apoligize now in advance and ask for your patience and a little tolerance.   I have posted a question regarding gear oil , thats has been frustrating to find, so I appreciate any help there.  So for now thanks  for letting me in, and I look forward to being here.

1st pick out at the property being enjoyed, 2nd pic was the day we picked her up ( it was exciting for us)

Hi all!  My name is Rob and I'm new the the UTV world. I'm Glad to be here and learn from the experts here on the forum.

I have a frustrating question to ask the experienced members on here  regarding the gear oil for my Coleman 400. The manual recommends for the final drive  SAE 80 API GL-4 Hypoid gear oil and for the Diff SAE 80 API GL-5 Hypoid gear oil. I can't find this stuff anywhere( I'm in Calgary by the way) ..especially the GL-4 stuff. If I find something close , it's not Hypoid , or only GL-5 What is everyone using , whats safe? is the dual rated stuff good to use in both places,  most of the dual rated stuff I find saids not recommended for a wet clutch. Obviously I have a lot to learn about this , so I'm here to learn and ask for some advice. Appreciate any input, help and guidance.....thanks -Rob