Quantcast
Jump to content


Polaris Ranger 570 Starts and dies


Go to solution Solved by Randy Mullenberg,

Recommended Posts

Posted

I’ve heard they can stick.  Usually more so in winter.   But not likely your issue.  


Have you checked your valve clearance?   That will make hard starting in winter, but potentially make any vehicle run wrong.  

My Ranger 900 was recommended at 200 hrs and/or 2000 miles.   I checked them at 250 hrs and had 2 of the 8 valves barely out of spec.   Hard to start, little rough idle and would occasionally die when at idle but would go down trails fine once on the gas.   Once back in spec, runs perfect, starts perfectly and idles great again. 
 

sorry, started to talk about fuel pump   But you changed it, so I removed that comment   
 

check your valves?  How many hours, miles?  
 

just throwing out some ideas.  Hope they help.  
 

keep us posted 

Posted
24 minutes ago, MotoFish said:

I’ve heard they can stick.  Usually more so in winter.   But not likely your issue.  


Have you checked your valve clearance?   That will make hard starting in winter, but potentially make any vehicle run wrong.  

My Ranger 900 was recommended at 200 hrs and/or 2000 miles.   I checked them at 250 hrs and had 2 of the 8 valves barely out of spec.   Hard to start, little rough idle and would occasionally die when at idle but would go down trails fine once on the gas.   Once back in spec, runs perfect, starts perfectly and idles great again. 
 

sorry, started to talk about fuel pump   But you changed it, so I removed that comment   
 

check your valves?  How many hours, miles?  
 

just throwing out some ideas.  Hope they help.  
 

keep us posted 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 7/29/2023 at 11:01 AM, Randy Mullenberg said:

Checking valves next week. You’re about the third third person to mention that. Will give a report back. Thanks for the reply.

Ended up being a ground strap. Can’t believe I didn’t notice that?? Anyhow all systems are a go one again. Thanks for the input everyone.

Posted

Anyway you can post a picture of where this grounding strap is located?   I would love to give mine a once over to ensure it’s not getting loose.  
 

thanks for the update!   🤘

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Skeeter22
      I going from a Yama Rhino and bought a 2026 Ranger 1000XP. I was riding and lost all steering. The steering wheel just spins freely. I have one other video of this happing but has anyone else experienced this.
    • By rdc
      I have a 2007 Joyner 1100 sand viper and  before it even get's to where the thermostat opens up the oil pressure get's so low I have to shut it down. What could fix this ? I thought about adding an oil cooler with fan, thicker oil, or removing the thermostat. Any advice?
    • By Sammy
      Runs fine just putting around the yard. Get it out on the road and about a half miles it runs out of gas. Let it idle for a few minutes and it will run for another half mile and do it again. Replaced both fuel pumps and filter. Does anyone know if I can get rid of the factory fuel pump?
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Silent3923
      Been waiting over a month and a half for a transmission from bobcat,  they claim the polaris transmission is different.   Can anyone verify that???
×
×
  • Create New...