Jagged X’s RANGER RZR Finishes “Best in the Desert�
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By Sidewinder
All mid 2008 through 2014 Polaris RZR 800 series have a big problem with the rear differential pinion nut backing off, allowing the pinion gear to shoot into the rear differential, destroying the rear differential. This has happened with machines with as little as less than 100 miles on them! Reports indicate that there are no problems, nor warnings, until the rear differential grenades, locking the rear axles solid! This requires the machine to be lifted onto a trailer, to be transported for rear differential replacement, as it destroys the case. After failure, rear differential replacement can be quite expensive: labor alone can run from $800-$1200 and a new OEM Spicer rear diff, if you can find one, can run from $1700-$2500! So, if you own any Polaris RZR 800 series between the years of 2008-2014, I recommend that you do this repair before further use of your machine. personally, I have grounded my machine until it can be done. Please check the online post for your own awareness.
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By gridlock
After three years, my Sector completely died. Something caused the hot wire under the seat from the charger to disintegrate, so the batteries weren't being charged. The batteries weren't charging 100% anymore, so decided to convert to lithium.
As most others have done, I went with 4-48v batteries in parallel, as I believe that will be plenty of amp-hours for my needs, but can always add more if needed. I went with LiTime wired CAN batteries and mounted their digital gauge on the dash above the current one, which fit perfectly. I didn't think the existing battery brackets worked well for the new batteries, so made my own out of aluminum L rails, which makes it much more secure (and saves a few more ounces :)). Since I wired them in a 'balanced' configuration, I had to make all new cables from 0/1 gauge wire and 8mm posts. I updated the DeltaQ charger to profile 233. Cleaned everything up (I must have vacuumed 20 pounds of dirt!), put it all together and... wham!
So far, it definitely is better than with the original AGM batteries. Sustains speed better going up hills, and seems to have plenty of reserve current. The difference in weight with 4 LiPo vs 8 AGM batteries surely doesn't hurt!
Thanks to everyone on this forum, but special shoutout to GNFO who was a big help.
A few questions:
In the 'any tips' thread, EVSupport mentioned reprogramming the Sevcon to reflect the new discharge curve of the lithium cells, but I didn't see any more info about that or how to do that. Is there any more info about that?
Have folks replaced the onboard 12v battery, and if so, with lithium? I'm not sure why there is a 12v battery; why didn't they just step down the current of the 48v system to provide power to accessories?
Is there a recommendation as far as charging with the lithium conversion? As far as I understand, it is better to let lithium batteries discharge somewhat (but not completely) than keep them charging all the time. What do you think?
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By Jamesjoh
I just bought my first Polaris yesterday and I’m waiting for it to be delivered. I opted against getting the windshield and roof from the dealer — he roughly quoted about $1k for both, which seemed a bit steep — so I’m looking around online first.
I’m specifically shopping for Polaris Ranger XP 1000 accessories like windshield, roof, and other gear. Where do you all usually buy from, and do members here get any discounts or preferred vendors?
Thanks!
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By EVSupport
We are doing a total rebuild of a 2010EV includes chassis refurbishment with a lot of new steelwork, blasting and powder coating. We have put the main front to back drive shaft in with new UJs, and its showing that the front yoke flicks and clonks and has a lot of movement on the spline. It moves sideways/ flicks is the only way I can describe it. Not something I have seen before. A replacement yoke has been ordered. Any thoughts as to what the cause could have been (other than a previously seized UJ at some point) ?
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By dtaylortx
I just bought a 2005 ranger 500 that has been sitting at my friends for a year. I replaced the battery, checked the fluids, drained the gas and refilled it, removed the old gas from the lines and fuel pump.
It would not start, it would crank but not fire. I removed the air filter and sprayed starter fluid in it. It ran for about 10 seconds and died. It would not run on fuel.
I removed the carb and got a rebuild kit. It was green and gummy inside.
I also bought another cheap amazon carb just incase.
I went back, put the carb on and it started and ran for about 30 seconds. It then looked like the fuel pump had stopped working and it cut out.
I could not get it to restart.
I disconnected the pump and tried to get the pump to run directly from a gas can onto the ground. It would vibrate and make the usual noises but no fuel output.
I put another fuel pump on it and it would still not run.
I blew into the fuel line from the pump to the carb and i was blocked. (I figured the float was up and the needle had closed off the fuel.)
I took the carb off and it was full of fuel.
I put the amazon carb on and tried, fuel drained from the bottom of the carb (I know, what did I expect).
I have a couple of questions.
1. Is there a sensor that restricts the fuel, (I'm wondering if the original pump was good, now I know the bowl was full).
2. Why will this now not run when it was running good for 30 seconds, it sounded great.
advice is appreciated, I'm kind of stuck now, the bike is 30 miles from me so its a nightmare traveling back and forth with tools. I wanted to get it back to my place but the brakes are also seized.
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