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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/22/2021 in Posts

  1. Solved the problem. One of the connector insulators had slipped back and touched the frame, blowing the F2 fuse in the relay box. When I tested the fuses, all fuses tested good. I decided to go back in and pull all the fuses and re-check them. Found F2 was blown. The first check, I just checked across the fuse as it sat in the box. Of course, with the contact grounding out against the frame, it was showing the fuse was making continuity. So, I inadvertently found the issue and fixed it by undoing all the wire ties, basically. Now to button everything up properly so it doesn't happen again. I really don't like the cable management on these things (or any "chinese" units, for that matter). At least I got it figured out. Thanks again for the manual.
    1 point
  2. Thanks. I've completely disassembled the keyswitch. It is a simple 3 post unit, and all contacts are working. The newest issue is now that the F and R lights are working, and P-brake indicator turns off when they are on, but when you use the turn signal, no signal lights, but the P, F, and R will blink out with the turn signal. I'm going to go through connections under the seat again, maybe something came loose. It is starting to act more like a grounding issue, but I can't find any chassis grounds on this thing. So frustrating.
    1 point
  3. I use the 10W40 ACTEVO from Castrol for WET CLUTCH applications ....... use it in my Massimo MSU 500, used it for many years in my Honda ATVs and my Katana Sportbike.. Change them once a year, Never had a wet clutch fail yet
    1 point
  4. In light of earlier posts in this thread. I'd check the valves. Because something happened to just make it stop even trying to start. Just curious, but what method was used to verify the spark? Today's engines run with way more powerful spark than they used to. Some older testers, and methods aren't able to verify there's enough power for it to start the engine. Only that there's actually a spark. I use a tester, that looks like a mini spark plug. There's a large gap. If the spark jumps the large gap, then there's plenty of fire to start. They're cheap, and easy to find, and easy to use. Also they're absolutely necessary. It's recommended that you not just pull the plug, and lay it on the head, to check spark anymore. Bad things can happen to delicate electronics when doing this.
    1 point
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