kenfain

Members
  • Content count

    120
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    29

kenfain last won the day on February 19

kenfain had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

35 Excellent

1 Follower

About kenfain

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • UTV Brand
    Kawasaki mule diesel

Recent Profile Visitors

3,143 profile views
  1. dump bed problems

    Glad you got it sorted out!
  2. dump bed problems

    Welcome to the forum, I hope this works out for you. Let us know how it goes. Good luck!
  3. dump bed problems

    This sounds like an aftermarket lift. The factory lift is hydraulic IIRC. If it is electric, then it probably has a worm screw driven mechanism. If this is an aftermarket lift, try giving it a helping hand by pulling up on it while operating the lift switch. You might need some help with the lifting up of the bed. Sometimes the worm screw just needs some help getting to some good threads. Of course the bed should be empty when you do this. If this is the problem, you'll be able to hear it turning. And if that's the case, and this fix doesn't work, you'll have to pull the bed hinge pins, raise the lift, and replace the pins. Do this while it's raised. If this works, then you'll always want to keep the bed up about a half inch from the bed rails. That way it'll always be in the good threads. The fix gets easier after you've done it a couple of times. Hope this makes sense.
  4. 2001mule 3010 4x4

    Just like a typical car.
  5. Frog Pond Pug

    Parts might not be hard to find, but they wouldn't be cheap. I doubt there'd be much of a used parts market. Unfortunately the news gets worse from there. The specifications aren't very impressive, and they're underpowered. Unless you just want 4wd, I'd buy a used golf cart. Add tires and a lift kit.
  6. Any luck finding information about that mule?
  7. Well, it doesn't look anything at all like mine, but I'll try to help, all I can. First off the dash looks like it's been stripped of possibly an hour meter, on the right side. If it's wired like mine, then it would plug into the two single pin, black wires, shown in the picture above, just to the right of the six pin connector. Of course that's just a guess. And possibly an oil pressure warning light. I would expect both of those items to be on the dash. The six pin block on mine is for adding accessories, like lights. I'll check my owners manual for vin location, since I don't remember. Edit; what I've found is this page from the owners manual, which shows where the frame number, and engine numbers are located. If the picture is unclear, it's indicating the frame, underneath the seat. What I've been unable to find, is the model number plate, which also shows the year. IIRC this plate is located underneath the vehicle, and towards the very front. But it's been about thirteen years since I've laid eyes on mine, so I could be wrong. As to the dash instrument issue, mine has a parking brake indicator, and water temp light combination, in the area that in your picture, clearly shows something has been removed. Edit; after more closely looking at your dash picture. My opinion would be that the empty spot on the right, would have been used for the 4wd lever in a 4wd vehicle. They would've likely used the same dash panel. I'm basing this guess on the shape of the slotted holes. It's very similar to the other side with the diff lock lever.
  8. Blue Smoke

    Yes, I can understand how some mechanics can inflate a problem. But I'm just pointing out that the proper diagnosis is everything. Just replacing suspect parts will only lead to frustration. I've been there before. You can certainly follow a gut feeling, and replace what you think the problem is. Leaking valve guides seems reasonable, considering the symptoms. You might get lucky. In answer to the time it takes to change out the valve seals. It should be about three hours or so. That's assuming he's pulling the head, to change them. Some people have used air pressure to hold the valve in place while changing out those seals. I've also heard of stuffing rope down in through the spark plug hole to accomplish this. It's a less invasive approach, and saves money on parts.
  9. Blue Smoke

    I wouldn't jump to a conclusion about the valve seals being the problem. Obviously they are a prime suspect, but if you're going to let a mechanic fix it...then let a qualified mechanic diagnose it also. When you tell a mechanic that you need new seals, then that's what you'll get. Even if that's not the problem. What if it's a cracked ring? Or a head gasket? Have you pulled the plugs, and checked each one?
  10. GPS

    Welcome to the forum!! I would think a garmin would be what you want. The kind that does rural, not one of those that does only roads.
  11. Doesn't want to start

    OBD2 is the same as what is used on all cars and light trucks manufactured for sale in America since 1996. If it has the same plug, it likely takes the same reader. The professional versions of these readers can cost more than a thousand dollars. When software for these professional readers is added ( and they're updated often, since each manufacturer has brand specific codes) the cost can be several thousand dollars. But the good news is, there's generic information in each system, that's common to all vehicles that use the system. So you don't need the expensive version of this tool. You can use the cheap one, (they're about a hundred bucks) and do a little detective work. The code reader will tell you which part, or system needs to be investigated further. However in your case even that might not be necessary. But unfortunately, it will require someone who either knows, or has access to specific voltage values for that particular models electrical components. This information would still be necessary, even if you had the code reader. That's not saying that a reader wouldn't help. But you still need to be able to decipher the gibberish that a code reader puts out. On a car, there's lots of information on the internet that helps you decipher the information. On one of these, there just isn't that much that can be wrong with it, since there just aren't many components there. And I doubt that even the internet would help with diagnosis. I suspect that a multimeter and some time spent checking the components involved in telling the fuel system how much fuel it needs to start would be the best course of action.
  12. Doesn't want to start

    Is this thing OBD2, or something else? If it is, OBD2, there's fairly cheap options out there for live data readers.
  13. Cylinder Head Bolts

    Since there couldn't be much to it, taking that measurement. I would think, that they wouldn't mind measuring that for you. Since you've had them do some other work on this same engine. I'd suggest that you take it with you, and visit the shop. Talk to the guy that you talked to before, about the casting defect/crack. And ask how you'd go about measuring for that shim. Tell him what you don't understand about the procedure. Or that you don't have the tool, whatever. Maybe offer him ten bucks. My guess would be that you'd just use a feeler gauge. Making sure that the crank is pulled forward, if it has any play, front to rear. But I've never dealt with that, and without seeing it in person, I can only guess.
  14. Cylinder Head Bolts

    Over torqued bolts can stretch. The next step is to break. When they break, they're nearly impossible to extract. I doubt that You'll have any trouble, but it's your call. I personally, wouldn't worry about it. But I'd be very careful when tightening.
  15. winch question

    Depending on what you want to do with it, the 3000 lb. winch is probably what you want. For getting a stuck 1200 pound vehicle out of the mud, a 3000 lb. winch is a minimum. But that doesn't mean it'll always be enough to do the job in a worst case scenario. Even with a snatch block, there could be a time there's simply not enough power. For logs, it should be enough, especially when used with a snatch block, or 2. I find a winch to be a lot of trouble to actually use, and I typically use a come along more often. The winch cable is a pain to get it retracted properly. If it's not done right it'll foul it up in the winding, making it tough to deploy next time. Or worse, it'll damage the cable. You'll want to switch to that soft winch rope as soon as possible, you'll like it better. My recommendation is to buy a harbor freight model, or similar, since you won't use it much. Get one with a wireless remote, but make sure there's a wired controller too. Wireless is very handy, but dead batteries can ruin your day. Use a winch cover. Winching is very dangerous, so read up on proper techniques. ALWAYS leave the motor running! These things can draw a battery down in seconds, at full power. Remember, the nearest object to anchor to will always be just out of reach when you're stuck. So take a few extra recovery straps. FWIW, I've got the Warn 3000lb. on mine, and it's about the same size machine. Hope this helps! Good luck