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kenfain last won the day on September 3

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About kenfain

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  • UTV Brand
    Kawasaki mule diesel

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  1. Yes, even though it's fuel injected its still the same problem. That gas gets old, and sometimes it'll gum things up. The fuel injector cleaner should help to clean it out for the most part. Sometimes it'll do the job completely. Other times it'll always die occasionally. The problem shouldn't get any worse though, as long as you keep running it. So my advice would be to take it out and run it as much as possible. Keep putting the treatment in it. Run a few tanks through it. Sitting there idling, and occasionally revving it, is okay. But it really needs to be driven. See if it'll fix itself, because otherwise it'll need parts. And make sure you've got fuel stabilizer in it for storage.
  2. I have a diesel mule that has the intake in the rops bar. It's loud also. A back window tamed the noise to a tolerable level. Since I'm not familiar with your machine, it might not be helpful. But insulating, and deflecting that noisemaker away from the cab would be the way to approach this. Just a shot in the dark here. But I see those black truck bedliners, on the side of the road that've blown out of a truck. That stuff would be an excellent material to fabricate what you've described.
  3. That's a nice looking buggy you got there! And with cool weather approaching for most everyone who isn't in Texas. It's a very good choice for cold rainy weather.
  4. Based on your description, it sounds like a classic case of varnish build-up in the carb. See if you can keep it running by nursing it with a light shot of starting fluid, every time it tries to die. If that works, then it's a varnish build-up. Sometimes a carburetor rebuild will fix it. Sometimes it takes a new carb. Kits are cheap enough to try that before buying a new carb.
  5. Welcome to the forum! Maybe reinforce the windshield by putting some scrap plywood, or a scrap shipping pallet over it, to break the wind load on the plexiglass. Then a tarp overall. Wouldn't really worry about the soft top. As long as the windshield is in place, the pressure is all where it needs to be. On the outside pushing in. Lose that windshield, it's a blowout. Mind the speed, and you should be okay. Of course you'll want to stop frequently to check your load. Till you see for sure how its gonna ride.
  6. If the reviews are favorable, I'd Google "2008 Teryx 750 problems" followed by maintenance issues etc. That way you can see if some unforseen problem might possibly be lurking right there waiting. That doesn't mean that you'll have any problem, but it gives more knowledge. Most reviews are done on new machines, that haven't had time, or elements working against it yet. Really only covering performance, and capabilities. All good things to know, but if a maintenance nightmare awaits, I'd want to know that as well. There should be plenty of information available about a 2008 machine. So you'll probably get all the information you need. And honestly, if it's in good shape, that's probably a fair deal. As I remember, the Teryx was a pricey machine, small, and fast. Geared more for fun, than work. Kind of a side×side version of a 4 wheeler. Either way, if it has a trailer hitch it'll be okay for light duty. And one thing I've learned on this forum, is that parts availability is a big plus. If you do buy it, be sure to get a shop service manual for it. Or for anything that you do get. Those manuals are pure gold, and together with the internet, can solve most problems.
  7. The engine block casting process is pretty standardised, and would need to have some sort of piece to attach the coolant hose. So they used a typical thermostat housing. That way they don't have to engineer a hose nipple. Then pay to have it manufactured, which would only increase costs. The thermostat housing can be easily sourced. And it's common in any manufacturing industry to source common, non- propietary parts from elsewhere, and not manufacturing in- house. So it's natural to call it what it is, even though it doesn't actually contain a thermostat. That would be my guess. I'm sure that you could put one in there if it has the relief cut around the rim. So that the thermostat would properly seat, & seal. Although that wouldn't help your overheating problem. My guess would still be a water pump problem, or air in the system. Of course, not examining it personally, I can't totally rule out a blockage in the system, a clogged radiator or internally collapsed hose or something. But that seems extremely unlikely, and I trust that you've eliminated those possibilities.
  8. Sounds like a dead short in that swith, or somewhere in that circuit. Probably blew a main fuse. You said you've got power TO the fuses. What about after? Limbs, and rocks, and other road debris is often the culprit here. Check the switch with a continuity tester. Then look around underneath where the wires go into the front drive. Or the transaxle or whatever it has. It's possible that it's something else, but since it happened when you hit the button. That's where I'd start looking. If it's a push button activated 4wd. There's a relay that'll drive the actuator. Both those are prime suspects.
  9. I don't see how a thermostat missing would cause overheating. The thermostat is used to get the motor to heat up to operating temp, so you can run a heater, etc. Lack of a thermostat would cause it to run too cool. I'd look for other problems, like the water pump impeller running backwards. It has to push water in a certain direction, or it doesn't work right. I had a jeep that had this problem. The parts house gave me one to fit a serpentine belt. Which went underneath the bottom side of the pulley. Turning it the opposite direction. Or an air bubble in the system. Today's cooling systems have to be "burped" sometimes. Especially foreign cars.
  10. That light assembly looks exactly like mine. Which is oem. Although I haven't ever looked at the bulbs, those look like standard automotive bulbs. I'd bet that any auto parts house would have it. Is the number still etched on it?
  11. I've used the Kubota for a few hours. It has some nice features, good power. I'd recommend it. The one that I used had a high, low, and mid range. My mule only has high, and low. If I had it to do over, I'd definitely choose the Kubota.
  12. I'd try jacking it up, and put it on stands. Then put it in gear, and try to replicate the vibration. You might be able to narrow it down if its immobile, with only the drive train in motion.
  13. Glad to hear you've got it going again. Did you flush out the old brake fluid, when you bled the brakes?
  14. I'm assuming that there's no rebuild kit available then? If the soaking doesn't fix it, you might have to operate. If you can gently disassemble the cylinder, there's not much in there. Lightly honing the inside of the cylinder, and cleaning the parts, along with rubbing silicone oil into all the rubber should fix it. 90 bucks seems way over priced. The ones for a car are fifteen or twenty.
  15. If the cylinder can't be salvaged its not all bad. Since a new one should be available, and it can't be that expensive. But if a rebuild kit is available, it's a simple job. At least the drum cleaned up. Everything that's saved means less parts to buy. So I'd say the evaporust was a good choice. Especially since its supposed to be reusable. Battery charger electrolysis works great too.
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