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kenfain

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kenfain last won the day on April 13

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About kenfain

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  • UTV Brand
    Kawasaki mule diesel

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  1. They have electric powered hydraulic pumps. Kinda like how a power steering makes hydraulic power, using a pulley off the engine. These would use an electric motor to accomplish the same thing. But you still need a hydraulic rack and pinion. I'd look for a vehicle that has the same width, as measured hub to hub. There's plenty of vehicles that have power steering. But mounting it will still require lots of modification, as well as a significant cost. Most of the cost would be in acquiring the rack, since a utv salvage yard will be difficult to impossible to find. The research of finding a suitable sized rack will be a daunting task. But you might get lucky, since being real close would probably work just fine. But the fabrication will need to be perfect, if its gonna drive & ride right. Give WCF a call, maybe he's got a simple solution.
  2. The specs for the 2018 wolverine, say it has a three way, on demand locking differential. As Travis has said it's surprising for it to not have that as stock. Are you certain that it's not a mistake? Is it new, with an owners manual? If its determined that it absolutely has a full time locked differential. There's a possibility that you could easily swap out a locker mechanism from a different model wolverine.
  3. You'll probably need to get that wheel off the ground. Then try grabbing the tire, and manually moving it through the turn it would make, if you were using the steering wheel. Left/right etc. Then look to see where its broke. It should be quickly obvious when you see something flopping around. If not, then my money is on the inner tie rod. Although it could be the rack. But since its just one side, that inner tie rod seems most likely. You might have to pull that boot to be certain. Since that inner rod is mostly hidden by the boot. Don't damage that boot, and try not to break the tie that's holding it if possible. Since if it's anything like a car, those ties take a special, expensive, never used again tool, to replace them. You'll end up using zip ties on em, or hose clamps. That just isn't the same kind of seal. See if you can gently slide those off. Preserving the boot is really the hardest part of the job. Inner tie rods are definitely a do it yourself job.
  4. That's a really nice fit, they look good. Hope you had a happy birthday Travis.
  5. It looks like a solid choice for what you have in mind. Unfortunately I can't give any feedback on the newer models, since mine is an 05 diesel. Other than replacing the battery several years ago, it's never given a single hiccup. I would however, highly recommend the diesel motor. Mine is a beast, it has out pulled my 4wd New Holland 27 hp. tractor! Of course that was an isolated incident, and I'd be very surprised if it did it again. But I've never had any power, or traction issues, and my use is around the farm also. It's a tough, reliable little machine. Mine has a lift kit, and side bed rails, as well as a couple other things, to make it more useful. The availability of aftermarket add ons like these were the main reason why I chose the mule over something like the Kubota. If the Polaris Ranger hadn't had automatic engagement on their 4wd, I might've went that way. I just don't like equipment that does my thinking for me. But the bottom line is; get something that has a good dealer support in your area. Good aftermarket parts availability, so you can tailor it to your needs. There's lots of buggies out there for joy riding, and they're great for that purpose. They've got the independent suspension, high lift, and powerful motors. But you'd probably be happier with a clunky old school straight axle machine. Those things are purpose built for work.
  6. Hey Tony. Just a quick look at the two, looks like the Ranger is a bigger machine. At over 1500 lbs. It likely won't be much for mud, or creeks. But if you're looking for a firewood hauler, it looks like it's on point. Most of these machines aren't as versatile as the manufacturers would have you believe. Unlike a truck, typically you can't infinitely upgrade. Eventually creating a bullet proof mud buggy, that can haul a load of wood through a creek. Instead, it's typically a serious trade off. You have to decide what you'll do with it the most. If it's mostly work, then get the big one. A set of mud tires, and a winch, will get you most places you'll want to go. If it's mostly for trails, and mud, but needs to be able to do some hauling also. Then make sure you pick a model that has lots of wheel travel space in the fender well. Plenty of available upgrades, like lift kits, tires, maybe a power upgrade as well. It'll still be good for some light duty work. It does have a bed on it after all. But make no mistake, those tiny axles, won't take a lot of torque. Any more than that big machine will float on top of the mud.
  7. kenfain

    Newb

    Howdy back at ya Leon! Welcome to the forum. Congratulations on scoring that new to you TERYX. Is it stock? Any plans on upgrades?
  8. Just a guess, but I'd suspect that you'd be better off using a utv power rack n pinion. Maybe off an older Kubota 9000. Either way you're gonna have to do some fabrication. If Kioti has a power steering model, you might get lucky.
  9. That's a good tip, even for a car. I'm a member on several car forums, and it's a common problem. Sometimes it just causes overall mahem, nothing specific, just electrical gremlins. Ends up being a faulty ground connection.
  10. Is this something that could be solved by buckling the belt behind the driver? I just hate all the lawsuit driven safety measures. My 2005 mule goes 25 mph in high gear. Still has a seat belt though, with the original rubber band on it. Rarely goes over 15 mph. Never saw the need. The good news is, that most useless safety measures can be overridden pretty easily. Typically just a simple sensor, that can be overridden by a jumper wire. Least ways that's how it works on my rider mowers. It all depends on what the manufacturer has put in, and how serious they are with it.
  11. Patience Travis...104° with 96% humidity is coming. Just enjoy this pre summer weather. Of course, in Texas, summer takes up three seasons!
  12. It really sounds like a fuel pressure problem. Don't know if it's a bad pump or just weak, or the wrong pump completely. But the pressure should be consistent, and in the right pressure as stock. The fact that you've got to turn the key on and off a few times seems to indicate that something isn't right there. With the Ford Ranger, that's a dead giveaway that the pump is bad. Check voltage, and amp draw, if possible. I'm assuming that there's no blockage on any of the fuel lines, or filter. YouTube can help you clean the injectors, if you think they're a problem. But I think the pressure is a clue to the problem. As far as swapping fuel pump assemblies, I doubt it would solve the problem unless it's the same motor. Which I doubt. My experience comes from a Ford Ranger, not a Polaris, so its only my opinion, and worth exactly what you paid for it.
  13. Sounds like you've got air in the system.
  14. Don't know if this will help, but it looked interesting, and possibly relevant. If you end up finding that the fuel pump is the problem. I'm not sure what obstacle the poster ran into that made him go this way, instead of an actual repair. But sometimes there's little choice. But until we know what the problem is, this is a cheap alternative, and a quick fix. If it's a stuck float, a fuel cut off is always a good idea anyway. And it'll stop that particular issue. Although it won't actually fix the real problem, it'll stop the unwanted gas.
  15. If there's enough slack for the push rod to spin, then it can take some tightening with no problem. So its worth a try. Just be mindful of the original settings. You don't want to over tighten. A bent push rod would be bad. Just as long as there's the proper tolerance somewhere around the top. Just rock it back and forth, and try to push the feeler guage in while doing it.


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