Quantcast
Jump to content

kenfain

Members
  • Content Count

    300
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    68

kenfain last won the day on March 22

kenfain had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

100 Excellent

1 Follower

About kenfain

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • UTV Brand
    Kawasaki mule diesel

Recent Profile Visitors

4,181 profile views
  1. I probably should have been clearer in my post above. I should've said key on, motor off. Instead of just saying not running. It's not supposed to do anything with the key off.
  2. Sounds like you'll need a wiring diagram for your machine. You'll have to find out what exactly is on that circuit. As I've said before, 10amps isn't much power. Since electrical diagrams seem to be hard to find for most machines. And for me personally, they're not easy to read. I'd probably try replacing the fuse, and without starting it up. See what works, then pull the fuse, and see what doesn't. That'll give some idea what's on the circuit. I'd also try to see if I could get the fuse to blow while it ISN'T running. Checking the turn signal, and such. That should simplify the whole process. Since then you'll know what activity caused it to blow. For the next tests I'd start it up, but not drive it. Check each item, pulling the fuse after each test. Wiggling wires, and doing what I could to get the fuse to blow. ANYTHING to narrow it down. But being certain to pull and check the fuse between each test. I'd put it up on jack stands to test the speed sensor. From my experience, it'll likely be something underneath the vehicle. That's where most of the destructive force is most active. So a thorough visual inspection would be a good idea while its up on stands. Paying close attention to items that are known to be on that circuit, like the speed sensor. After that it'll be a continuity test. Chasing each wire on that circuit.
  3. Congrats, it sounds like we can call this fixed! Of course you did the heavy lifting. We were just along for the ride mostly. But thanks for following through with the story, and pictures. Every little bit helps, and it leaves a searchable example of cause, effect, and ultimate solution. If I were a moderator, I'd give it, its own thread, and make it a sticky.
  4. That really sounds like a short in that circuit. Like its only sparking, when the vehicle moves it around. Especially if it lasts a varying amount of time. Of course I could be wrong, but I'd replace the fuse, then turn it on. Try wiggling wires, especially those in the affected circuit. If its a bad switch, or hard component like a pump, or a brake light assembly. Typically the fuse will hold a certain length of time. Usually taking the almost exact amount of time to blow each time. Unless I've misunderstood the problem. Of course hard components can also be loose, and rattle, causing similar symptoms. So all components, as well as connecting wires must be inspected, and wiggled. If the dash lights never worked after replacing the fuse, I'd suspect that the problem lies there. Possibly in the dash circuitry itself. Are you sure that 10A is correct? That's not enough amps for anything but the simplest circuit. As far as it not shutting down. The starting components being dead won't necessarily affect an engine once its running. As far as the electrical system goes, really only the charging circuit, and related components matter once its running. Isn't this thing still under warranty?
  5. I believe you're right about the video. And it would make sense that this test would point to the sensor as the problem. But there's lots of people who've jumped that fan, and then replaced the sensor. Only to find the issue is still there. Maybe, like some fuel pumps, and other cheap Chinese electronics. The replacement sensors can be bad out of the box? Don't know what their ultimate solution was, since we rarely hear the final outcomes. Some of those threads are years old, certainly their problem is long solved. It's a shame that people rarely share their ultimate solutions, but its that way across all forums. Let's hope that in your case, that its just the sensor and a simple fix. Thanks for sharing your findings up to this point. Good luck! Please keep us posted.
  6. As I've said, its highly unlikely, up to the point of being next to impossible for an air pocket in your case. It takes a lot of air to make that happen. The system itself will dispatch small amounts of air on its own. As far as I know, it'll only happen when a system component is changed, and you lose most of your coolant, or if you do a coolant change. When it steams out, it comes out of the cap, so that doesn't count, and is easily handled by refilling the radiator. And it doesn't happen in all vehicles. I fully understand about the peace of mind that would result by eliminating a potential cause of the problem. I just don't think this is it. In any case, I can't help you as to bleeding port location. Or if yours even has them. Not all vehicles have them, even among those that have the need to be bled. My limited experience comes from purging the air from a few small cars. Although the process is mentioned in the shop service manual for my kawasaki mule. Thankfully I've never had the pleasure of bleeding my particular twin radiator set up. It's a several step process, and quite involved. Yours probably isn't as bad, most aren't. If there's no bleed screw. Then like most small cars, you'd need to get the radiator elevated. Typically by jacking the front end up at least six inches, to a foot or so. Obviously if its a rear radiator or some such it'll be different. Remove the radiator cap, and replace it with a special attachable funnel. This funnel isn't hard to find, nor is it absolutely necessary. But it is about twenty bucks. But it has a variety of adapters making it fairly universal. Some people use a plastic 2 liter bottle, or similar, with the bottom cut off of it. I prefer the zero mess of the funnel. I find the bottle method to be a quite messy, three handed, with hands on it at all times affair. Although the internet shows people going mess free through the whole process. The funnel allows for mostly supervision only. Just waiting on the temp to rise. You could be there waiting awhile. Since the cap is off, it'll naturally take longer because of physics that I don't really understand. When the engine gets up to temp, the thermostat opens, and the level rises because of the heat, and the circulation. There will be a surge of scalding hot coolant up into the funnel. This is what you're waiting on, and if you're using a bottle, you'd better be prepared for it. The funnel fills. If there's air, then it'll gurgle dramatically, then go way down. You refill, and you're done. All you have to do is check and refill the overflow reservoir as needed till it stabilizes over the next few rides. And your problem is likely solved. If there's NO air, then you'll have to wait till it cools, before all the coolant goes back into the radiator. The process is easier said than done, as it's a simple process, easily described. But it may take MANY tries, and can be quite messy, till you get the hang of it. Some people get it the first try. But coolant isn't the easiest cleanup, nor is it especially cheap. That's why I prefer the funnel, which actually attaches to the radiator, exactly like the cap does. I'd suggest that if you're set on trying this. That you first try to use the internet for an exact procedure for your exact machine. If none is found, then I'd look for the bleeder screw, typically located in an easily accessible hard point, such as the thermostat housing, or alongside the temp sensor. If that doesn't work out, I'd proceed to the process described above using the bottle first. See what kind of fit you can get into the opening. You might get lucky, but I'd still try to seal around it, and try to secure it. The last thing you want to do is try holding a flimsy bottle in place while its steaming your hand. Maybe make a handle out of tape or some such. Possibly use a stiffer bottle if possible, such as a bleach bottle, or washer fluid bottle. If you do have a bleed screw, the process is much simpler. It only requires that you open it while running when cool, and when the coolant runs out, you close it. Then refill coolant. Our very own forum moderator @Travis is our MVP with his Google abilities. Maybe if there's nobody else helpful with finding the cooling system bleed procedure. He would be willing to give it a shot. If its in print somewhere, I'd bet he could find it. And he's typically most helpful. At any rate, as I've said. I'm convinced that your problem lies squarely in that cooling fan. As that's a leading cause, by far, of the condition you're having. Find out why its not coming on by itself, and you'll have this mystery solved. That process is quite an elusive task, and has been the bain of many a backyard mechanic, as the causes can vary. When you've solved this mystery PLEASE share your findings. The work, and pain that your going through, could be extremely useful for those who come along afterwards. So many times there's been common problems that are shared by many. Some posts are several years old. You know that their problem must surely be solved by now. But unfortunately they never bothered to share their experience. So please give us the courtesy of a follow-up. So that well all be richer for it. Good luck sir. And if you have any other questions that I can answer...I'll be happy to help any way that I can.
  7. There's several reasons that an engine could overheat. Air in the system is only one. And I only offered it to the o.p. as a possible cause for someone who'd tried plenty of other stuff. It's not the most likely cause of overheating though. But as to how the coolant gets out. It goes away as steam, that the cap can't contain. Or by a leak in the system. Air usually gets in by somehow opening the system. And we're not talking about the radiator cap. It's made to be removed. But more like changing a thermostat, or maybe changing a hose. Something in the middle of the system. Air gets trapped, and that spoils the circulation I suppose. But you'd think that bubble would flush to the top of the radiator, but not on some systems. I guess the radiator isn't high enough above the rest of the system or some such. And I say that because you usually have to raise part of the vehicle to make the purge work. Typically it's the front end. Not all systems have to be purged, like for example the old American cars. But like almost all small foreign cars, most of these types of buggies probably do. I only mentioned it, because it's just a cheap, easy way to eliminate this as a possible cause for overheating. If you've never opened the system in the middle, such as changing a thermostat. Then that's likely way down the list as your cause. Your first priority is to find out why that fan isn't working. And until thats sorted out, I wouldn't be messing with anything else. If it ain't broke don't fix it till it is broke. Fix that fan issue, and I'll bet that fixes the overheating.
  8. Just to make certain that its in the transmission, and not the cable. I'd unhook the cable, and make sure its operating freely. Then try to manually operate the mechanism. Yeah, its probably internal. But sometimes you do get lucky.
  9. If it goes easily into gear with the motor off. Then its likely something more than a simple fix. Sounds like something internal. A bad clutch is certainly possible. But if it were the clutch, wouldn't it be difficult to get into any gear? If it were a car, I'd say that it sounded like a faulty synchronizer. Since you've said that it will go into gear while its not running. That would require opening the transmission. Also any internal transmission parts would likely be difficult to find. But certainly not impossible. You'll have to take out the transmission to replace the clutch. So I'd bet the problem will be easier to find then. There's not much to a manual transmission, it's certainly not as complicated as an automatic. I'd try to find a shop service manual, that pictures the assembly. I'd be willing to bet that if the transmission is removed, it would be much easier to find someone to take a look at it.
  10. Sounds like a cable malfunction. Or possibly there's an obstruction. Maybe a small stick is wedged in there. It happens a lot with any off road vehicle. Usually its just wedged harmlessly though. But sometimes it'll bind up something important. So you need to get underneath while someone tries to shift. Do NOT force it. Just gently back, and forth while you watch the linkage try to operate. See what moves, and follow the cables, or linkage. Check from the shifter, all the way to the transmission. It sounds like there's a couple of cables involved, since hardly anyone uses mechanical linkage anymore. Make sure you're following the proper cable. Its usually not hard to find the problem. Cables typically fail on the inside though. So keep that in mind. Cables cannot be repaired. They're cheap enough, so they just get replaced. If its certain that there's no obstruction. And the cables are in good working order. The next step would likely be the transmission itself.
  11. Welcome from Texas Bob! Glad to have you with us . Sounds like you're on top of the belt problem. Hopefully its fixed now.
  12. Checking the continuity of the cables, only affirms there aren't any breaks in the wire. You need to test the resistance. That will test for the ability of the wire to carry the full current. Sometimes the cables can corrode internally without any visible on the outside. But its somewhat rare. Usually there's corrosion visible on the ends if that's the problem. So it's unlikely that there's a problem there. But it happens often enough that its worth checking. It seems unlikely that two alternators would be bad. But its possible. If it turns out to be bad. I'd have the thing rebuilt rather than replace it. That gives you a chance to upgrade the alternator to a higher output.
  13. Glad to hear you have it going again. That heat shield ought to work, to keep it from happening again.
  14. Are you certain that there's no air in the cooling system? That would cause what you've described. As to the fuse, and/or relay. There really should be both, as all electric circuits should be fused. But because that fan would have a large amp draw, a short could burn the whole thing down. But certainly there should be a relay, since that fan would likely draw too many amps for a simple switch that the heat sending unit or sensors would provide.
  15. Check the actual output at the alternator. Check the ground. Check the resistance in the battery cables themselves. As well as how much power is actually making it to the battery. Sometimes the cables go bad inside, becoming congested with corrosion.


×
×
  • Create New...