kenfain

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kenfain last won the day on March 9

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About kenfain

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  • UTV Brand
    Kawasaki mule diesel

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  1. 2007 trans 3010

    Mine is an 05 diesel. The only light that lights up before starting is the oil pressure light. Of course yours could be different. I think they went to some kind of onboard computer system soon after mine was built, but I don't know when. So yours could be a completely different machine.
  2. Need help converting

    5.5 and some change according to google.
  3. Bluetooth speaker

    I use a powered speaker made by ION, it rides on the roof, secured by bungee cords. It's big, and it's not pretty, but it's extremely loud, and lasts for hours. Portable, self contained, with no power drain on the vehicle.
  4. Now THAT is funny. But you know you're buying experience. Sometimes it pays off directly, sometimes it's down the road. Troubleshooting is where you REALLY need to pay attention.
  5. The comment about extra parts is just to say that the whole engine works together, as a system. If the engine doesn't have the compression it's supposed to have, or lacks a robust performance. It would be easy to say " If only I'd honed that cylinder I could be certain that it isn't some kind of blowby issue. Unless you're a seasoned mechanic, it's ALL gremlins, and voodoo. Especially when you're talking about something like honing. My advice is to hone that sumbitch, and move on. I told you from the beginning, that you'll have to go back into the motor....It happens...almost always. It's how we learn, so embrace it lol. When you get it right...it'll be worth it.
  6. I would concur with all that's been mentioned above, but to also add, honing is also used to get rid of metal transfer residue. This happens with aluminum pistons. Usually it's a big problem for chainsaws, and such. Never heard of it being a problem on bigger engines. So honing in your case is probably optional. It's definitely recommended, but I wouldn't think there'd be much difference. If the motor is still out of the chassis, I'd take it apart, because I know myself too well. My OCD wouldn't let me just forget about it. As far as which hone to get, the one with the stones give a nice cross hatch pattern, which is what most people want. I didn't look at any of the others that you linked. But most of the rest will polish the cylinder. Polishing a cylinder is useful for 2 cycle engines, but certainly won't hurt yours. After all, that's what the rings are going to start doing immediately after starting it up. My recommendation would be to get the machine shop up the street to do that as well. Since a cylinder hone is not something you'll ever use much, why buy one? Honing used to be dirt cheap, probably still is. This will also allow you to ask these guys any questions that you might still have. Disassembling, and assembly will go much quicker,and be much easier this time around. It'll also give you a chance to check your previous work. I'd say to just wade on in. Think of it this way; if you don't, and you can't seem to get it running right. You'll start second guessing all the stuff that you missed, or skipped. Since a motor doesn't have any extra parts, or needless rebuild procedures. Even something as simple as skipping the honing, will become suspect. I can almost guarantee that it won't be the problem, but this way it'll be eliminated for certain.
  7. dump bed problems

    Glad you got it sorted out!
  8. dump bed problems

    Welcome to the forum, I hope this works out for you. Let us know how it goes. Good luck!
  9. dump bed problems

    This sounds like an aftermarket lift. The factory lift is hydraulic IIRC. If it is electric, then it probably has a worm screw driven mechanism. If this is an aftermarket lift, try giving it a helping hand by pulling up on it while operating the lift switch. You might need some help with the lifting up of the bed. Sometimes the worm screw just needs some help getting to some good threads. Of course the bed should be empty when you do this. If this is the problem, you'll be able to hear it turning. And if that's the case, and this fix doesn't work, you'll have to pull the bed hinge pins, raise the lift, and replace the pins. Do this while it's raised. If this works, then you'll always want to keep the bed up about a half inch from the bed rails. That way it'll always be in the good threads. The fix gets easier after you've done it a couple of times. Hope this makes sense.
  10. 2001mule 3010 4x4

    Just like a typical car.
  11. Frog Pond Pug

    Parts might not be hard to find, but they wouldn't be cheap. I doubt there'd be much of a used parts market. Unfortunately the news gets worse from there. The specifications aren't very impressive, and they're underpowered. Unless you just want 4wd, I'd buy a used golf cart. Add tires and a lift kit.
  12. Any luck finding information about that mule?
  13. Well, it doesn't look anything at all like mine, but I'll try to help, all I can. First off the dash looks like it's been stripped of possibly an hour meter, on the right side. If it's wired like mine, then it would plug into the two single pin, black wires, shown in the picture above, just to the right of the six pin connector. Of course that's just a guess. And possibly an oil pressure warning light. I would expect both of those items to be on the dash. The six pin block on mine is for adding accessories, like lights. I'll check my owners manual for vin location, since I don't remember. Edit; what I've found is this page from the owners manual, which shows where the frame number, and engine numbers are located. If the picture is unclear, it's indicating the frame, underneath the seat. What I've been unable to find, is the model number plate, which also shows the year. IIRC this plate is located underneath the vehicle, and towards the very front. But it's been about thirteen years since I've laid eyes on mine, so I could be wrong. As to the dash instrument issue, mine has a parking brake indicator, and water temp light combination, in the area that in your picture, clearly shows something has been removed. Edit; after more closely looking at your dash picture. My opinion would be that the empty spot on the right, would have been used for the 4wd lever in a 4wd vehicle. They would've likely used the same dash panel. I'm basing this guess on the shape of the slotted holes. It's very similar to the other side with the diff lock lever.
  14. Blue Smoke

    Yes, I can understand how some mechanics can inflate a problem. But I'm just pointing out that the proper diagnosis is everything. Just replacing suspect parts will only lead to frustration. I've been there before. You can certainly follow a gut feeling, and replace what you think the problem is. Leaking valve guides seems reasonable, considering the symptoms. You might get lucky. In answer to the time it takes to change out the valve seals. It should be about three hours or so. That's assuming he's pulling the head, to change them. Some people have used air pressure to hold the valve in place while changing out those seals. I've also heard of stuffing rope down in through the spark plug hole to accomplish this. It's a less invasive approach, and saves money on parts.
  15. Blue Smoke

    I wouldn't jump to a conclusion about the valve seals being the problem. Obviously they are a prime suspect, but if you're going to let a mechanic fix it...then let a qualified mechanic diagnose it also. When you tell a mechanic that you need new seals, then that's what you'll get. Even if that's not the problem. What if it's a cracked ring? Or a head gasket? Have you pulled the plugs, and checked each one?