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kenfain

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kenfain last won the day on July 24

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About kenfain

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  • UTV Brand
    Kawasaki mule diesel

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  1. Mine has the factory top, no windshield, or doors. Since it's in Texas there's rarely a need for a windshield. It does have a sliding back glass, but it stays shut, and was only installed to block the noise of the diesel air intake vent. Which is quite loud.
  2. I found those side rails at a local Powersports /Kawasaki dealership. They were a factory offered item, so were a bit expensive at around a hundred fifty bucks. But they're heavy duty steel. These days, I'd probably just make some out of hardware store square steel tubing, and a few oak planks. But I have seen other manufacturers that make them. Try Essex manufacturing Ft. Worth Texas. They make lots of stuff for outfitting a mule. They make mule accessories for the military, as well as fire departments. If you're ever near Ft. Worth, Texas it's worth the time to stop by. There's lots of
  3. Congratulations on your new buggy! I think that if you were looking for something to work out of, and drive around the acreage doing chores. The mule is an excellent choice. With responsible driving, and good maintenance, you'll get many good years out of it. If it's 4wd, don't drive around in 4wd. That's ONLY for when there's soft ground. Those expensive tiny little parts in the front drive just won't take the abuse, over time. There's plenty of accessories out there, depending on where you look, and what you want for it. Some accessories turn out to be extremely helpful, whi
  4. Welcome to the forum! You need to provide more information about how old, or new, the miles, or hours on it? Is it fuel injection, or carburetor?
  5. Welcome to the forum Aaron! The exhaust could easily be moved, although it would probably cost a couple hundred bucks if you had it done. Much cheaper if you have access to a pipe bender, and a welding torch. What about just using bed mounted seats instead? They're easily removed, so you can still use the bed for hauling.
  6. A look at your local craigslist, or Facebook marketplace might find you a s×s salvage yard in your area. One that might possibly match that engine. It's probably a longshot. But well worth the effort if you get lucky. Or that engine could easily be rebuilt. However, once you factor in the labor costs, neither option is cheap. And they both have drawbacks. Personally, I'd probably give luck a brief chance, by searching for a salvage place nearby. Next, I'd try to find out if the mounts might accept a more generic motor replacement. If I had no success there, then I'd get to work on
  7. Welcome to the forum! There's a couple of obvious things you could check, like the brakes, or an axle bearing. But something that new, should still have a warranty.
  8. Depending on the location of the solenoid, there's no real need to mount the button on the dash. You could easily mount it somewhere around the seat, within easy reach, with shorter wires. Momentarily handling that modest amount of amps shouldn't be any reason to up the guage significantly. I would think that 18g. would work fine.
  9. Sounds like a good, solid plan. My guess is that if this solves the no start condition, there's no real need for a new harness. So I'd stay mindful of creating something that'll stand up over time.
  10. It's certainly possible if you have enough straight section of bar to remove. You planning on doing it yourself?
  11. You should be able to use just about anything. I have an older 3010 mule, and I used big channel locks on mine. A couple of C-clamps would probably work too. So if you have a real strut compressor, you'll be okay. These springs aren't as dangerous as car springs.
  12. There's lots of videos online that show how to disassemble, and replace most types of automotive electrical plugs.
  13. Maybe you'll get lucky with the new ignition switch.
  14. Sometimes it's displayed as a number on the clock. It might not blink, but just display the number. I don't know how many sensors there are on yours. But with what's going on with yours, there should certainly be a code. Have you looked at switching the upstream, and downstream exhaust sensors?
  15. If you can establish that it's working properly, while the mule still doesn't start. You can move on to the next test. But a bad solenoid does sometimes cause these exact symptoms. And the solenoid did get hot. I'm pretty sure it isn't supposed to do that. Considering how the solenoid works internally handling a good amount of current to the starter. There's only a couple ways that it could make heat. High current draw, or some kind of short internally. I'm certain that it's not current draw, since the starter wasn't turning at that point. So it seems some kind of short is all th

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