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kenfain

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kenfain last won the day on July 6

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About kenfain

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  • UTV Brand
    Kawasaki mule diesel

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  1. It's a sad day for country music fans worldwide. As well as the country music community. A country legend has passed. And I feel like I've lost a piece of myself. I grew up with his music, playing in the background of my youth. A soundtrack of better, less complicated times. One of the best fiddlers in country music, and probably best known for his song, The devil went down to Georgia. It's been said that if anyone could beat the devil in a duel of fiddles. It would be Charlie Daniels. He was a true American, and a fine musician. Although he's gone, his music lives on. Thanks for the years of talent that you shared. And thanks for the memories. "God bless America, and God bless music city." And God bless the CDB. Rest in peace Charlie Daniels.
  2. TBH, I had no idea that anyone made a 4wd electric buggy. Very interesting stuff. I was hoping the thread exposure would bring along someone that understands a bit about how these work. What little expertise I have, is with mechanical stuff. Please post details about any progress, so that others can benefit from what you find. Especially if you find a wiring diagram. Those things are scarce as hens teeth. There's so little information out there about these Hisun models. Good luck!
  3. kenfain

    New to UTVs

    For the desert, you'll want something fast, with independent suspension. Definitely not a utility vehicle. Slow and clunky, isn't what you want in the desert. And I'm not sure what they call the hot rod side×side. But it'd be the Polaris RZR type of thing. Just do yourself a favor, and buy a name brand. Buy once cry once. Anything less, and your just buying trouble. And the desert is no place for a mechanical breakdown. Personally, I'd want a dune buggy, because what you're looking for is very pricey. And for similar money, a dune buggy would be much more versatile. With cheaper parts, better parts availability, as well as better, quicker resale. With less depreciation. Rollovers would be carefree, with no worries about breaking expensive plastic panels. Plenty of power to pull your buddy's broken machine back to the trailer lol.
  4. The switch is just an on off switch? If it's that simple, there should be a voltage difference between on, and off. Being electrically activated, I'd expect there's a relay involved somewhere. Look in the fuse panel. Relays are notorious for being troublesome. The good news is they're cheap, and easy to diagnose, and replace. Sorry for all the guesswork, but I'm not familiar with your machine. Mine is much older, and a totally different brand altogether. I'm thinking that it sounds like it's electrical, based on the weird dash readout. Hopefully this forum activity will alert someone more familiar with your unit?
  5. Have you tested the switch itself for proper function? I know that I said differential earlier. Don't really know what I was thinking. It probably handles 4wd at what would be the transfer case on a truck. Or it's possible that there's only the transmission. But if you can see where the hi/lo 4wd actuator goes. It'll probably be close by. If you follow the wire from the switch, you might have some luck. But it could easily be a grounded circuit, so you need to chase those wires if at all possible. Sometimes when I don't know what a part looks like. I'll Google for that part for sale. If it pops up, now you know what it looks like. And that makes it much easier to find. It's a long shot in this case. But sometimes it works.
  6. Dunno if you've ever done any winching, but they draw a lot of amps while under load. So its a good idea to always winch with the engine running. Otherwise you might be walking home.
  7. Is it a manual shift? Or electronic? If it's mechanical, then check the cable through to the front differential. See if you can manually operate the linkage going into the differential If it's electronic, then you're probably going to have to disconnect the shifter, and see if you can activate the lever going into the differential by hand.
  8. A mule is supposed to be better dressed. Should at least have a hat on.
  9. That would be the best long term solution. Even if the mule pulled the wagon, it still uses a tiny motor, pulling a light duty drive train. So for long term, you'll need a small tractor or similar. Don't know how durable, or how hard it is to find parts. But those tiny utility trucks are pretty popular lately. If it's Japanese, it's probably a pretty good value. If it's rated to pull the kind of weight that you have. It would be an option. Last I heard, they were about $6 grand, in a used, but really nice condition. Cheaper than a good used tractor.
  10. Sounds like a hot sweaty job right there. Especially at this time of year. But interesting at the same time. I spent some time in the swamp in Louisiana. Not at all what I was expecting. It was nice, in its own way. When you get back, and decide to tackle that project we'll be here. There's no timeline, it's all on your schedule. Stay safe.
  11. Let that mat sit there for a couple weeks. See if you even need it fastened. If you don't use the dump, there should be no reason to need it fastened. And it might just form fit and be fabulous. I guarantee that you'll need to get under that mat. Especially if you fasten it down permanently. I put a plywood bottom in and old wagon that I pulled behind a four wheeler. That was what I used before the mule. That plywood bottom didn't need to come out often, but it did need to come out.
  12. Sorry, I guess it was us that left you hanging then. All drum brakes are pretty much the same. In your case, I'd pull the drums first. That can be a lot of trouble right there. Typically they've been on there for years and sometimes the drums are stuck on. And it can easily be the hardest part. So I'd pull the drums now, they should be easier to do when you get ready to do the work. So pull the drums, and find a YouTube instructional that looks like your own setup. It's not really critical. The parts you'll definitely need, are the brake shoes. Hopefully not, but possibly new drums. And if a wheel cylinder is leaking, youll need a new set. They are rebuildable, but replacement is best. Everything that gets replaced, gets replaced on both sides. Or you'll have uneven braking. This is important! Buy new brake fluid, plenty of brake cleaner. Be certain that it's non chlorinated. The chlorinated is toxic, and requires specialized PPE safety stuff. And a couple of cardboard boxes to slide under the works to catch fluids. I'd want all new hardware also. However that's not absolutely necessary. But it does make things easier. Because sometimes old springs cause uneven brake reset. That can cause wierd brake pedal feel, to uneven stopping, to a single wheel locking up when braking. But usually it isn't a problem, so if it's hard to find, or you're on a budget. You could probably skip that. You'll definitely want to replace the fluid though. That's a generic job also. Plenty of examples on YouTube. And doesn't absolutely have to be done at the same time. To get started, you'll need to pull the drums to expose the internals on both sides. Do one side at a time. Because on the reassembly, you WILL need to look at how it goes together. So leave one side unmolested, for reference. This can be critical so don't take it lightly. Hose everything down with non chlorinated brake cleaner. I buy the cheap stuff at Walmart. Three cans should be plenty. Slide a cardboard underneath the assembly, and hose it down. Everything about this job is messy. Plenty of cardboard, and maybe something more protective, if you're trying to keep a pristine garage floor. Pre planning is important for this. Take pictures as you remove each part. Because there's not many parts, but they're layered. Some parts go over, some under. And there's subtle differences between left, and right. So pay close attention, and take a few pictures. You'll know when you have it right, because of how it fits together. It's really not that hard, certainly a beginner could do it. Especially with the help of YouTube. But it could take most of the day, especially if you have problems. Or get side tracked. You might also need to source parts that you don't have. So don't do this in the driveway behind a car that you might need. You might have to order parts from the internet. So plan ahead on where you do this. It might be there awhile, or it might take a couple hours. Unless you go all new parts, and have everything you need, expect that it won't be a quick job. I've spent a half day doing cars, when the auto parts was just right there. So prepare for a small project, and be happy if it just falls together. But understand that sometimes you'll find other problems too. Like bearings that are bad. Or leaking seals. Don't worry about getting in over your head. It really isn't that complicated. Although I might not have painted a rosey picture. I try not to over simplify. I want you to know what you're getting into. You'll be glad you saved the $800.00. But you'll understand why it costs so much. It takes lots of time. We'll be here if you have questions. It'll come straight to my email after this. Welcome to the forum, and Good luck!
  13. I've never heard of vapor lock on the older mules. Vapor lock wasn't very common in older cars, but it certainly did happen. Seems like it was mostly a model specific thing. As some models were prone to it. And it might be common across a lot of examples of that particular model. Others never had a problem. On one old truck of mine, the fix was using one of those spring loaded wooden clothes pins. Just clipped it to the gas line near the carb. It worked as a heat sink. I'm sure that you've looked up the cause. So some possible solutions might include. Trying a cooling fan after stopping. Reducing the cooling time. Try idling the engine for a couple of minutes before shutting it down when it's hot. Reroute the gas line away from hot manifold. Or if its a metal gas line, you could replace it with the rubber stuff. Or try insulating the gas line. Have you tried pulling the breather, and looking down the carburetor throat to see if it gets a good squirt of gas when it's doing this?
  14. Never heard back from the OP? Seems he just left us hanging. To anyone trying to work on drum brakes for the first time. Always work on one side at a time. Leaving the other side intact, you'll have something to look at, and compare to, if you get confused about the assembly. And try to take a couple of pictures of the assembly before you start to take it apart.
  15. I like the idea of the stall mat. But if the mule is left out in the weather, then I think water will definately cause problems with rust underneath the mat. If it's kept under a roof, then I think it'll be okay. As long as you can easily pull the mat out. So you'd need some kind of quick connect type fastener. Because you'll need a way to pull that mat out. You'll occasionally need a way to clean under it. Or to let it dry if it gets wet. But there's always the possibility that if it's heavyweight rubber. That it'll stay in place. No fasteners needed. Mine has the OEM poly bedliner. It works well enough.


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