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kenfain last won the day on March 1

kenfain had the most liked content!

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About kenfain

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  • UTV Brand
    Kawasaki mule diesel

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  1. Just a guess, but I'd suspect that you'd be better off using a utv power rack n pinion. Maybe off an older Kubota 9000. Either way you're gonna have to do some fabrication. If Kioti has a power steering model, you might get lucky.
  2. That's a good tip, even for a car. I'm a member on several car forums, and it's a common problem. Sometimes it just causes overall mahem, nothing specific, just electrical gremlins. Ends up being a faulty ground connection.
  3. Is this something that could be solved by buckling the belt behind the driver? I just hate all the lawsuit driven safety measures. My 2005 mule goes 25 mph in high gear. Still has a seat belt though, with the original rubber band on it. Rarely goes over 15 mph. Never saw the need. The good news is, that most useless safety measures can be overridden pretty easily. Typically just a simple sensor, that can be overridden by a jumper wire. Least ways that's how it works on my rider mowers. It all depends on what the manufacturer has put in, and how serious they are with it.
  4. Patience Travis...104° with 96% humidity is coming. Just enjoy this pre summer weather. Of course, in Texas, summer takes up three seasons!
  5. It really sounds like a fuel pressure problem. Don't know if it's a bad pump or just weak, or the wrong pump completely. But the pressure should be consistent, and in the right pressure as stock. The fact that you've got to turn the key on and off a few times seems to indicate that something isn't right there. With the Ford Ranger, that's a dead giveaway that the pump is bad. Check voltage, and amp draw, if possible. I'm assuming that there's no blockage on any of the fuel lines, or filter. YouTube can help you clean the injectors, if you think they're a problem. But I think the pressure is a clue to the problem. As far as swapping fuel pump assemblies, I doubt it would solve the problem unless it's the same motor. Which I doubt. My experience comes from a Ford Ranger, not a Polaris, so its only my opinion, and worth exactly what you paid for it.
  6. Sounds like you've got air in the system.
  7. Don't know if this will help, but it looked interesting, and possibly relevant. If you end up finding that the fuel pump is the problem. I'm not sure what obstacle the poster ran into that made him go this way, instead of an actual repair. But sometimes there's little choice. But until we know what the problem is, this is a cheap alternative, and a quick fix. If it's a stuck float, a fuel cut off is always a good idea anyway. And it'll stop that particular issue. Although it won't actually fix the real problem, it'll stop the unwanted gas.
  8. If there's enough slack for the push rod to spin, then it can take some tightening with no problem. So its worth a try. Just be mindful of the original settings. You don't want to over tighten. A bent push rod would be bad. Just as long as there's the proper tolerance somewhere around the top. Just rock it back and forth, and try to push the feeler guage in while doing it.
  9. Up should be the least pressure. When it starts coming down, that's when pressure is applied. Most engines have some sort of mark that indicates TDC. You might research that. The screwdriver method works too ...usually. The problem with the screwdriver method, is it's a judgement call, and not perfect. But it sounds suspiciously like maybe we're not quite at TDC. Just based on the symptoms, and subsequent description of same. If there's no marks, at all, then try adjustment of the valves by rocking the engine. Look for the sweet spot, when the slack in the rod appears. Because that's likely where your tap is. Adjust that to tolerance specs. See if that improves the situation.
  10. I'd say you're on to something there. That push rod should be tight, if the valve is depressed at all. Are you sure that you had the piston at TDC, and on the correct stroke when adjusted?
  11. Don't remember what kind of lifters you've got, but most American cars use hydraulic lifters that can stick. That'll cause ticking.
  12. You might try to find a leak down tester at the local auto parts tool loan program, and give that a try. Otherwise I'm assuming that there's not any oil leaking around where the cylinder meets the case. And if you pull the dipstick while its running, and oil doesn't come out. Nor is there any oil on the crankcase ventilation tube. That pretty much covers the head gasket. I'm still thinking that one of the lifters is the problem, but it's a good idea to keep an open mind. If it makes good power, and the plug is still looking good, and as long as it doesn't get worse. I'd just keep driving it for awhile. Always keep an eye on it, and keep checking the plug. If it's anything significant then eventually it'll start showing signs of what's wrong with it.
  13. Well at least you're making headway on the part that you didn't want to mess with. As far as the tap goes, you might have to live with it. Unless you want to pull that head off, and redo the top end.
  14. Welcome to the forum! I have to say, that I really like the thought of what you're planning. If there's room to physically fit the motor, and it turns the right direction, and shaft driven. I can't see why it wouldn't work. It would likely be a project requiring fabrication skills, as well as tools & equipment. Not to mention, a place to do this. If you've got all of that, then I'd say yes, it would work. It all starts by measuring the motor, and then measuring the space where it'll go, with the bed down. Of course the bed could be raised if it comes to that. But I really don't see it saving any money, if that's a big part of your plan. Having someone who does this type of work doing it, might be a better call. Assuming that it's diesel power that you're after, rather than just a quick easy swap. Rebuilding the old motor, would be much easier, and probably much cheaper in the end, with lots of well worn paths of experts, and professionals, manuals, parts and such. With the swap, you're pretty much on your own, creating as you go. If you're thinking that it'd be a toss up, on which way to go...not even close. It has the potential to be a full on project. While there is a small chance that it'll just practically hop in there, with little modification, but probably not. Then of course there's the wiring to deal with. To do this right, and have it be something that you're proud of, and show off to friends. You'll have to be over the top with welding, and fabrication, wire management, paint etc. If you do decide to fit the diesel engine, it has a lot of potential. The bragging rights alone would be priceless. I know which way I'd go, even though, like yourself, I'd be mighty tempted. I'm sure the diesel motor could be sold to finance a lot of the project, while at the same time, freeing up some space. Regardless of which way you decide to go, remember to please keep us updated with pictures. Good luck with your project whichever direction you choose!

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