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Fault Code Troubleshooting "How To"


Joe Toup

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Hey Folks

There are not a lot of good sources out there for troubleshooting and diagnosing ECU problems with the Massimo Buck, Bennche Bighorn, Bennche Cowboy, & Cazador machines that use the Delphi MT05 ECU. They are all basically the same with different badging, so I thought I'd share some info that I found during some searches. I was trying to help someone diagnose and repair a hard starting issue.  The ignition coil was throwing a 0351 code.  I discovered how to read codes without an OBDII code reader.  The following procedures should help you check your fault codes and clear them if needed.

Fault Code Troubleshooting for Delphi MT05 ECU on the Massimo Buck 400, Bennche Bighorn 400, Bennche Cowboy 400, and Cazador 400

*NOTE: The MT05 ECU is not really OBD 2 compliant. It is much more similar to an OBDI system.  The MT05 ECU controls either 1 or 2 cylinder engines commonly found on Massimo, Bennche, and Cazador.

Much of the ECU info was found here:

https://netcult.ch/elmue/HUD ECU Hacker/Delphi MT05 Manual.pdf

Delphi EFI System Design

Delphi EFI employs 5 sensors to monitor engine performance.

1. Crankshaft Position Sensor

2. Coolant Temperature Sensor

3. Oxygen Sensor

4. Throttle Position Sensor

5. Manifold Air Pressure/Manifold Air Temperature (MAP/MAT) Sensor

Delphi EFI employs the following system components.

1. MT05 Engine Control Unit (ECU)

2. Fuel Pump

3. Multec 3.5 Fuel Injector

4. Idle Speed Control Valve (Idle Stepper Motor)

5. Multec Ignition Coil

6. Fuel Vapor Canister Purge Valve

Using the Digital Dashboard to Decipher EFI Trouble Codes

In addition to commercially available diagnostic scan tools (Big $$$), you can use the engine warning light of the Siemens dashboard to diagnose most of your EFI problems. The digital dashboard receives signals from the MT05 ECU, and the engine warning light will flash a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) if the ignition key is switched on/off for three cycles.

When you turn on the ignition, the engine warning light will illuminate, which indicates the EFI system is operational. After the engine is started, the engine warning light will extinguish if the EFI system is working properly. However, if the engine warning light remains illuminated, it indicates the EFI system is not working properly, and there is a system component failure.

Deciphering Diagnostic Trouble Codes

To read the diagnostic trouble code (DTC), open and close the ignition key three times in rapid succession, as follows: open/close—open/close—open. At this point the engine warning light will flash a DTC which indicates the fault in the EFI system. Refer to the attached fault code table to identify the corresponding problem.

The engine warning light will emit a sequence of flashing lights. If the light flashes 10 times, the translated number is 0. If the light flashes one time, the translated number is 1, et cetera.

For example, if the MAP/MAT sensor is disconnected, or the connector is shorted to ground, the engine warning light will flash in the following manner (This is an example only).

The engine warning light will flash 10 times: The first number of the DTC is 0

After an interval of 1.2 seconds, the engine warning light will flash 1 time: The second number of the DTC is 1

After an interval of 1.2 seconds, the engine warning light will flash 10 times: The third number of the DTC is 0

After an interval of 1.2 seconds, the engine warning light will flash 7 times: The fourth number of the DTC is 7

The resulting DTC is P0107.

NOTE: For the system I was helping to troubleshoot, I suspected an ignition coil failure due to the code that was thrown.  When it was checked, it was flashing:  10, 3, 5, 1.  The 10 represents a 0.  So the actual code was 0351.  After finding the code, the coil wire was checked and discovered loose at the spark plug.  Once it was pushed fully on, the problem was fixed.  Most likely, this problem was created after the owner had pulled the spark plug to check the gap.  The ECU was rebooted using the procedures detailed below with no more codes being thrown.   

If there are other fault codes, the engine warning light will flash the next code in 3.2 seconds after finishing the first sequence.  After all existing fault codes are flashed, the engine warning light will repeat the fault codes in a loop sequence, until the ignition key is turned off.

To clear fault codes you either need an OBDII Fault Code reader and a Delphi 6 pin connector adapter cable that you have to order from China and wait 8 weeks…OR....you can simply reboot the ECU using the instructions detailed below.

Rebooting the ECU

Perform the following steps to reboot the ECU.

1. Turn off the ignition for 15 seconds.

2. Turn the ignition on/off for 5 cycles. Make sure each cycle lasts about ½ second, verifying the start of the fuel pump for each cycle. If the fuel pump doesn't start during any cycle, begin the entire reboot procedure from the beginning.

3. Turn off the ignition for 15 seconds.

TPS (throttle position sensor) re-learn procedure after rebooting ECU.

This should be done after replacing the TPS or the ECU....and it is advisable to check proper idle after rebooting an ECU too.
 
Source: ECU Hacker (Reworded process slightly to make it a more sensible flow in my mind): 
 
1. Turn the idle screw one full turn clockwise before starting
 
2. Start the engine, and run at low idle until the engine warms.  Maybe a couple of mins.
 
3. Idle should be above 1500 rpm. If it isn’t, turn it up to 1700 then shut the engine off.  Do another reboot of ECU.
 
4. Restart the engine and let it stabilize at 1700 rpm.  Then turn the idle screen down to 1500 rpm and let it stabilize for a few seconds.  Once it stabilizes, set to the final recommended idle speed for your machine. The placard under (or behind) your seat should show idle speed, valve adjustment, spark gap, etc.  Typically the 390 cc engines in the "400" machines run at 1600 rpm idle. 
 
5. Shut it down. Wait 10-15 seconds before restarting.  The procedure is now complete. 

Final Notes:

I have included pictures of an OBDII connector and the Delphi 6 pin connector in case anyone wants to go buy stuff off ebay or local parts suppliers and build a connector to use for an OBDII reader. But...you can save money and simply do the same thing with code reading and resetting using the check engine light on your dash.  Some folks prefer to do it with code readers.  

Hope the information provided helps if anyone ever needs it but cannot find it in repair manuals. I discovered most of this in some motorcycle forums.  The source for the diagrams is here:

https://netcult.ch/elmue/HUD ECU Hacker/

Be advised: I am not a service technician.  I do not endorse any manufacturers. I do not get paid to help, nor do I want to.  This is just a hobby of mine.  I enjoy working on things and solving problems.  If you run into a weird problem that stumps you, give me a shout.  I may be able to give you some ideas...or not.  Just know, that troubleshooting thru emails can be challenging.  The more info you can provide, the better.  Otherwise, I will probably ask you a ton of questions.  The good news is, the Delphi system used on these machines is essentially an OBDI and it is very simplistic.  If you are methodical and patient, most of your "problems" can be figured out thru a process of elimination.  Always go for the simple things first before throwing money and sensors at a machine.  

Take care 

- JT

 

Fault Code List.PNG

ECU Layout.PNG

Delphi OBDII to 6 Pin Connector Diagram.PNG

6 Pin Connector.PNG

 

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  • 1 month later...
  • Alex pinned this topic
On 9/26/2020 at 4:04 PM, kenfain said:

This is solid information, on a topic that's really important to plenty of members right now. It should be a sticky, or whatever this forum calls it. So that we don't have to search for it. And it doesn't get buried beneath the chaff.

I don't know if we need permission to copy and store this information. . . .but if it is legal and with Forum  Administrators Joe's permission , it may be possible to Copy and Paste this posting into a word processing program like Word, Wordperfect, or  Office text document, I think each pictorial image would need to be copied and pasted separately from the excellent text portion of the posting.

Does anyone know if it would be legal to copy and paste and save on your computer, and then print the posting for private use as long as it isn't published on a other place or website?

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4 hours ago, Mackc said:

I don't know if we need permission to copy and store this information. . . .but if it is legal and with Forum  Administrators Joe's permission , it may be possible to Copy and Paste this posting into a word processing program like Word, Wordperfect, or  Office text document, I think each pictorial image would need to be copied and pasted separately from the excellent text portion of the posting.

Does anyone know if it would be legal to copy and paste and save on your computer, and then print the posting for private use as long as it isn't published on a other place or website?

You can print this or use, as all information posted on these forums is for public view. If its posted elsewhere, please include a link to this topic or the post so that @Joe Toup  receives credit as the source of information.

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  • Alex featured this topic

Using info that is out there for public knowledge and use is not an infringement on copyrights as far as I am aware.  Especially if it is for educational purposes and not for profit. You should be okay to print it. I copied it from multiple sources and combined the stuff into a sequence that made the most sense to my binary mind.  

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No need to give me credit.  It’s educational info only.  I make no money from it.  Just sharing what others have put out there in other forums, technical pages, and some guides and handbooks. I added some of my own experience to it and reworded a lot of it so it made more sense to me instead of fragments from all over the place.

This legal reference covers what is posted to our forum when it is being used as educational, teaching, or research material...and not for profit. 

"17 U.S. Code § 107.Limitations on exclusive rights: Fair us", retrieved from https://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/text/17/107

Therefore, it is my opinion that there would be no issues with printing a copy for personal use.  

 

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4 hours ago, Mackc said:

I don't know if we need permission to copy and store this information. . . .but if it is legal and with Forum  Administrators Joe's permission , it may be possible to Copy and Paste this posting into a word processing program like Word, Wordperfect, or  Office text document, I think each pictorial image would need to be copied and pasted separately from the excellent text portion of the posting.

Does anyone know if it would be legal to copy and paste and save on your computer, and then print the posting for private use as long as it isn't published on a other place or website?

That's the whole point of having it pinned. I haven't looked for it here, but on other forums. When you open the sub forum for that make, it'll be at the top. No matter how many posts happen. It'll always be there at the top. So you can easily reference it anytime you like, by opening the Massimo sub forum. 

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On 9/30/2020 at 1:30 PM, kenfain said:

That's the whole point of having it pinned. I haven't looked for it here, but on other forums. When you open the sub forum for that make, it'll be at the top. No matter how many posts happen. It'll always be there at the top. So you can easily reference it anytime you like, by opening the Massimo sub forum. 

Okay, I didn't understand all of what "having it pinned" in this case, I've been pinned in, pinned down,pig penned and several other "pinnings"

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  • 1 year later...

Can anyone tell me where I can locate the crankshaft position sensor on a 2015 Coleman 500 utv it has the hisun motor lost spark and pulse to the injector replaced coil put my ecm on a buddies machine same as mine fired right up so I’m convinced it’s the sensor but for the life of me can’t locate it thanks in advance 

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  • 2 months later...

Would this work for a 2021 Hisun Axis 700?

I just picked one up brand new at Lowe's last Sunday and I'm trying to carefully go through the break in time and I just noticed to day it's throwing fault codes.

P0113    IAT Circuit High Voltage or Open                     KsDGDM_IAT_ShortHigh                 113         275

P0122    TPS Circuit Low Voltage or Open                    KsDGDM_TPS_ShortLow                                 122         290

P0201    Injector 1 Circuit Malfunction                            KsDGDM_INJ_CYL_A_Fault            201         513

P0351    Cylinder 1 Ignition Coil Malfunction                                KsDGDM_EST_A_Fault                     351         849

P0650    MIL Circuit Malfunction                                      KsDGDM_MIL_Circuit                        650         1616

I noticed the codes while riding so it was already warmed up and working normally. Have no clue what all that means.....

Thanks.

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9 hours ago, RickinMT said:

Would this work for a 2021 Hisun Axis 700?

I just picked one up brand new at Lowe's last Sunday and I'm trying to carefully go through the break in time and I just noticed to day it's throwing fault codes.

P0113    IAT Circuit High Voltage or Open                     KsDGDM_IAT_ShortHigh                 113         275

P0122    TPS Circuit Low Voltage or Open                    KsDGDM_TPS_ShortLow                                 122         290

P0201    Injector 1 Circuit Malfunction                            KsDGDM_INJ_CYL_A_Fault            201         513

 

P0351    Cylinder 1 Ignition Coil Malfunction                                KsDGDM_EST_A_Fault                     351         849

 

P0650    MIL Circuit Malfunction                                      KsDGDM_MIL_Circuit                        650         1616

 

I noticed the codes while riding so it was already warmed up and working normally. Have no clue what all that means.....

Thanks.

 

 

 

 

This post raises several questions. Since I'm not familiar with your model, let's start with this. How did you determine that it was throwing codes? 

Being new, if it is actually throwing these codes, and there's no mistake. Then you'll want to take it in for warranty work. Special equipment, and a solid diagnostic plan is what's needed in this case.

With so many serious codes so soon, it might be a faulty control module. That can be an elusive diagnosis using a multimeter and the internet as a guide. Not to mention the cost of a replacement. 

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4 hours ago, kenfain said:

This post raises several questions. Since I'm not familiar with your model, let's start with this. How did you determine that it was throwing codes? 

Being new, if it is actually throwing these codes, and there's no mistake. Then you'll want to take it in for warranty work. Special equipment, and a solid diagnostic plan is what's needed in this case.

With so many serious codes so soon, it might be a faulty control module. That can be an elusive diagnosis using a multimeter and the internet as a guide. Not to mention the cost of a replacement. 

Hi, Ken.

The codes show up in the dashboard display for the spedometer, tach and clock, etc. The clock display will flash each code number in turn and then return to the clock readout, and then go back to flash each code again, then clock, and on and on. This is while the engine is running.

"Take it in for warranty work" is not an option. There is no service center within reasonable distance. Besides, I have UTV Board! :)

 

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The real problem, as I see it, is that the codes given are consistent with an engine that's running poorly. So imho, if it's not running with a substantial miss, then something else is going on. Like a possible failure of the CPU. 

Manufacturers are typically reluctant to give away parts without a reliable, trusted diagnosis of failure, such as that provided by an authorized service center. And a new CPU could be quite expensive, with no guarantee that'll cure the problem. Throwing parts at it is never a good plan anyway. 

Fixing it yourself, could be a long, expensive, frustrating endeavor. Complete with long down times, and fairly involved diagnostic procedures.

If it were me, I'd try to make it Lowe's problem. By any means necessary, including a return. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I got a massimo buck 450 it was running and all of a sudden turned off and wont start i changed ignition coil and still no spark the engine light flashes 10 times then 1 and then 1 again and then 3 times . does anyone know what can be my issue ? also the location of crank position sensor ? 

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Notice the IAT is an input. It is needed before your ECU will run properly. If it is open, there is a chance it may not run at all. Best to start looking at that sensor  (test it) before looking elsewhere with an 0113 code in my opinion. Don’t throw parts at it in an attempt to troubleshoot. Go for easy stuff first. Codes are important. 

Effectively, if you don’t have the correct inputs for this ECU, it won’t give you the correct outputs - meaning no signal to fire the coil for spark or no signal for the fuel pump to turn on.  It’s the way the system is designed.  It’s somewhat rudimentary but meant to save your engine from grenading.  

C953EE2F-5FD1-4635-9BCD-3E6C26F7F5DB.png

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  • 3 weeks later...

Having major issues with my TBoss.  Will not start, multiple codes.  

Codes are:
1.0122 (TPS low voltage or broken)
2.0201 (injector 1 circuit malfunction) -replaced and persists
3.0031 (02 heater circuit malfunction) -replaced and persists
4.0351 (cylinder 1 ignition coil malfunction)

 

Fixed:. Was a split wire on the fuel pump relay.

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  • 4 months later...

Have you ever ran into a P0563 code? I used the method way up above to get the Delphi ECM to spit out this code. Prior to that, I had a battery failure and faulty ignition switch. I think the switch issue may have cratered the voltage regulator. Thoughts? I have a Massimo T-Boss 410.

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Hey k-bo -  

I have not seen that code thrown previously.  But it is one that shouldn't be too major to deal with.  That is a code for when the ECM doesn't' sense the "stay alive" voltage to keep the non-volatile memory banked. If you lose power to the ECM. "Usually" a bad battery can cause that effect. A bad cell is most often the reason.  While you may be able to hold a charge to get it running, when it sits for some time the voltage may fallout of parameters to keep the non-volatile memory safe.  Meaning, when you do get it running again it would have to relearn the engine mapping. Not a big deal in the larger scheme of things but it does affect performance.

Here are some things to think about and consider....just some suggestions.  Hard to troubleshoot and diagnose without seeing the machine in-person.  But based on what you are describing, if I was chasing this rabbit, the first thing I would do is clear the code and see if it comes back.  If you changed out the ignition switch and had the battery disconnected, that could throw that exact code. 

Second I would have the battery checked. The faulty ignition switch may have led to a shorted cell inside the battery. With out testing, no way to know for sure. If you've already done that, and/or replaced the battery, then I would check the battery connections...especially for loose ground.  And I'd check the other grounds.  It could have also caused a hot fault at a ground. 

I've seen situations on Kawasaki ATVs where a bad ignition switch that never fully opens when turned off lets some stray voltage drain. It's kind of like the machine is half on and half off at the same time.  This is more voltage than the stay alive voltage to the ECM.  The ECM always receives a trickle of power when the machine is off.  But a bigger drain somewhere else in the wires can cause the ECM voltage to appear weak.  Electricity likes to take the path of least resistance. If it can flow somewhere else, it will.  It can happen on any ATV or side-by-side.  Sometimes a voltage drain, even if very small, can eventually lead to a ground fault. You can spend hours or days trying to figure out what is causing a ghost problem.  Good news is, you might notice a bad ground by the wires having shrunken insulation on the ends where connections are made.  You should check for wires that are running close to the frame for chaffing rubbing, melting, or otherwise exposed and touching metal.  What you won't see is corrosion where the connections meet the frame and galvanic corrosion has accelerated due to the existence of electrolyte from current flow that hasn't shut off.  Sounds weird but I have actually seen it.  Easy fix is removing the battery ground-to-frame connector and cleaning where they makes contact...then reconnecting.  

You may also have a situation where the charging circuit has a bad ground. Meaning, the voltage regulator is a possible culprit just as you suggest. But, I would not start throwing parts at it before checking the easy/cheap stuff first. I would do these things first in order of simplicity:

1) Reset the code and see if it comes back. See how long it takes. Is it immediate? Is it after sitting a few days?  These are clues you can use to further troubleshoot. The machine will tell you if its sick.  

2) Take battery to advance auto and have them check for bad cells. They do this for free.

3) If battery is good, spend some time checking grounds and loose connections. This also doesn't cost anything but time. You may want to check the wire from the ignition switch to the ECM to make sure it is giving correct power when on. If you're getting anything less than fully battery power output when the switch is on, you will need to figure out why (bad wire, another bad switch, etc.).  I have seen replacement switched bad out of the box.  If that checks out, check the ECM ground.  With a multimeter connected to the circuit (Ohms and no power) you can wiggle wires to see if you lose the ground.  One fast trick you can do is remove the ECM plug and reinstall it...then reset codes and check to see if it throws a code again. That is a very easy and fast check out.  Sometimes connectors that aren't making solid connections will cause cause weird power faults. 

4) If battery and connections seem to be okay, see if you can find a voltage regulator cheap on ebay or amazon. They are usually easy to find.  But this starts to cost money, so I typically avoid parts until I have completely removed all other possibilities from the situation.

5) If all of the above fails, then you may have toasted a circuit in the ECM. This would be a last resort.  If the machine runs with no other issues, I highly doubt the ECM is bad.  But...that doesn't mean it is an absolute.  It is actually pretty rare and I would think highly unlikely. Buying an ECM on a suspicion is never a good practice.  Better to isolate all of the other low hanging fruit first.  But weird things happen when wires short out. A bad switch can have evil consequences.  

Anyway, let me know what you find out.  This one interests me much.  Not a common problem. I'd like to know what you find.  If you do some testing and post some updates of what you find, that would help in trying to narrow this down.  

- JT

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Thanks very much, Joe, for your reply and your interest. I have replaced the battery because the one in the vehicle came up dead with only 8 volts. After the new one was installed, I couldn't get it restarted, so I replaced the ignition switch as it was clearly intermittent and not functioning right. After that, I still could not get it started up again. Note, before the UTV shut down for good and would idle at least, I checked the voltage on the console. It showed 16.7 volts. This is kind of what got me thinking about the voltage regulator. After viewing several YouTube videos and websites, I saw the same list of items that you called out, including a burnt out regulator. In the morning, I will double check the battery voltage (validate no draining and battery is not defective), go find and check all of the grounds, and replace the regulator (since I found one for $15). I will let you know how it goes. When I first started having issues, it seemed like a fuel problem in that it would not rev up. I blew out the fuel filter at that point and it started right up, but soon got worse. So, there's a distinct possibility that one issue has cascaded into multiple issues, complicated by a bad ignition switch and a weak battery. We'll see. I need to figure out how to clear codes on the Delphi, so I will review the info in the thread for doing that. If you can point me to that, it would surely be helpful. Thanks again!

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Update: After installing the voltage regulator, I got the same code from the ECM. So, I grabbed a wrench and tightened the hell out of the starter motor connection, which I had checked previously and had thought was already tight. The T-Boss started right up. I ran it up and down the street and all over thinking, Hallelujah, it's fixed! So I started lining up chores to do. I shut it off, did a few things, then got back in it. It started sluggishly, but came on. The next time I shut it off, I got back in it later and it was sluggish for a second, then would not turn over at all. Battery voltage was still good at 12.7v. I looked at the starter electrical connection again. It was still snug so I took the whole connection apart and examined it. The threaded rod in the connection was all loose and stuff looked slimy and melted inside the whole. I put it all back together and it still would not even turn over. I checked for 12v at the connection again and validated there is voltage from the relay when the starter switch is on. This points to the starter motor. I have located a replacement that is not from Massimo. I will try to bench test the starter motor tomorrow just in case the new battery I put it earlier is weak, or the slight possibility that the generator is not working right. The saga continues...

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