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Mackc last won the day on October 24

Mackc had the most liked content!

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About Mackc

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday March 23
  • Location Comanche, TX, USA

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  • UTV Brand
    Kawsaki & Massimo
  • Interests
    Quite a few.....

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  1. If you are smart, maybe you should be looking at an (made in America) EZGO 48 volt golf cart, or other brand cart unless you are going to be doing trail bikeing type trail riding. . I have had Kawasaki Mules, and now have a Massimo Buck 400. I have also had two EZGO 36 V golf carts over the last 30 years, and now have a EZGO 48 volt all being a two person side by sides. For around the house (going to the mail box at the highway, visiting the fishing dock, and taking my wife and a grandkid or puppy dog for a ride we all prefer the golf cart, BTW the 48 v cart will climb any hill a two wheel drive car will and up and over places you would expect to use a UTV . plus to refuel just plug in the charger! Batteries well maintained last up to 5 years, now there are Lithium batteries being developed for golf carts, so who knows what else will be available for electric powered carts, no gasoline fumes or exhaust problems as with gas or diesel powered carts. Think about it...... I hope this doesn't get me banned from this site.
  2. Mackc

    New Here

    As another newbie here and a first time Massimo owner that had a Kawasaki Mule before, both of Asian persuasion , Not a lot like my first vehicle (A Ford 1930 Model "A") about the only things either of the UTVs had in common with the each other and the Ford is 4 wheels, a steering wheels and run on gasoline. A lot of learning required to keep the dirty side down and the shiny side up and still moving along. Welcome to you.
  3. That is what I am thinking, but haven't seen anything in print to verify that.
  4. Okay here I am again.... I been reading the Buck 400 Service manual, well kinda trying to interpret it some and I was looking at the FUEL pump and saw a reference to the OIL PUMP pipes and OIL seal . What does the oil pump (maybe oil pressure?) have to do with the Fuel Pump and fuel tank?
  5. Absolutely, If your UTV is running hot with ambient temperatures in the 80 to 100 degrees F, it needs air flowing thru the radiator. The thermoswitch is a cheap way to raise the engine temperature high enough to satisfy the stupid exhaust emission mandate, which will soon destroy the small one cylinder engines in our summer like ambient temperatures. (Today's high is forecast to be 94 degrees.) End of story.
  6. I would try "Take the sparkplug lead off and hold the water pump up against the tab, by hand, and have someone just bump the starter and it should drop the slot over the tab."....If the waterpump bolts are long enough to start the threads into the engine, you may be able to start two or three of them to keep the parts lined up and just put a little hand pressure on the pump to tell if the slot and tab engage, then slide the pump on and quickly turn the bolts in to keep the two parts together If you pull the sparkplug out of the head the starter might spin the engine too fast, since the compression won't be available to keep the engine rotation slow enough to let the tab and slot to engage.
  7. Woah!, HOSS T-Boss! I am not suggesting you run without a thermostat (Mechanical heat sensitive valve) that is installed in the water outlet of the engine. The thermostat opens at 147 degrees F. to allow the engine to warmup, on the cold start. The FAN Electric Thermoswitch is what we are saying could be bad for the engine, it is screwed into the bottom of the radiator and senses the temperature of the coolant that has already passed thru the radiator and it is a switch that turns the fan on at somewhere around 230 degrees and then back off at 217 degrees. which it looks like to me would keep the coolant returning to the engine at over 220 degrees. IMHO, I consider that to be too hot for an engine like the one in the Massimo UTV. To me it is a sad state of affairs when Engineers are mandated to design a vehicle for what comes out of the exhaust tailpipe , rather, what comes out of the powertrain......
  8. Sorry way to gain friends and satisfy good customers, seems to me, and it may be a local TSC store thing, there is always some other place to spend our hard earned dollars. we have several so called "PowerSports" multi brand dealers here in the DFW marketing area, all trying to make a dollar any way they can, brag about their Service Centers, several that consist of a "Technician" trained on Youtube videos and a using a pocket full of Harbor Freight tools and a photocopied copy of the Massimo Service manual with a color picture cover @ $75.00 +$38 shipping + ?? Tax + some other ridiculous phantom fee, in a padded USPS envelope. They will deliver a Buck 200 X hundred 400, 410, UTV on a pallet "to be assembled by new owner" or "completely assembled" for an additional $599.99 amount plus a double or triple digit dollar delivery charge to a terminal in Abilene or Timbuctoo , because you don't have a forklift and it is shipped on a flatbed truck with NO power lift tailgate. Hell it looks better to go down to the local Johnny Derre Dealer and pay $12,000 for a green and yellow UTV assembled out of most of the same Chinieze parts that were cloned from a Japanese made UTV with a hundred electronic protected "Safety Relays", just because of the honored J.D. name. J,D, farm equipment . At least most of J.D. farm equipment dealers HAVE A REAL SERVICE SHOP WITH SOME MECHANICS. By the way the reason for the 217/230 F. Thermoswitch is to keep the head and exhaust temperature high enough to pass the American, (California) emissions control standards for Gas powered vehicles. No gas powered engine works better running red hot than a properly liquid cooled internal combusted engine does, which won't instantly turn water into steam. MAKE AMERICA GREAT AGAIN ! WOW!
  9. Wow, in Texas, nothing not road worthy, tractors, ATV, UTV needs a title nor registration, I got a Bill of Sale from original owner, but TSC provides a Manuf. Certificate of Manuf. with a VIN, mine came with the CofMOF with the purchaser's name blank, but unless it is used on a farm or ranch has to be sales taxed at purchase @ 8.25% in a city or town. since TSC is in town that is 8.25% . looks like LA get's you a coming and a going.
  10. If I can get the wires to unplug I will jumper them, if they won't unplug I will cut and tie them together and put a oilfield 10,000 PSI tape job on them like I did on a drillpipe back off stringshot
  11. On the Buck 400 the fan thermoswitch runs independent of the ECU it is hooked to a 10 amp fuse on the fuse block. The thermoswitch is screwed into the bottom of the radiator
  12. So as I understand it, To make the fan run 100% of when the switch is on is to find the Thermoswitch that screws into the bottom of the radiator on the passenger side of the radiator and jumper the two wires and just leave the thermoswitch without any wires? is that correct? Also I haven't seen any conversations about the engine thermostat, has anyone had to replace the engine thermostat because it fails to operate properly?
  13. Thanks Joe, I will have to see if I can even get to the radiator. This thing is almost all enclosed in plastic! The service manual has a lot of information, but is sadly missing any "how to get to" pictures and information. If I figure it out I will try to keep good notes to be posted here.
  14. Your Solution: by bypassing fan thermoswitch to allow fan to run 100%.. My Question, exactlely where is the thermoswitch located? and would you please post a picture of this Thermoswitch which appears to be a relay triggered by a heat coil. Is that correct?
  15. Yes, I did NOT remove the oil drain plug, and YES, since I didn't remove the drain plug and was going to have a half of a Qt of oil leftover I decided it was prudent to use it as a rinse . (The half of a quart only cost $2.35 ) Well today I buttoned up the Buck 400 after the oil change, The old oil was really black and and a little over a quart was sucked out at about 150 degrees F after warming the engine up for 10 minutes. Then I added the 1/2 Qt of oil for the rinse. the engine was still warm and the pump pumped almost all of the 1/2 rinse Quart out. I did have time for a test ride. I warmed the engine up at an idle for a couple minutes while checking for anything falling off or any leaks, everything is okay, I had a bit of jerking backing out of the shop and then in high gear for a couple of starts and stops then it started smoothing out, well as smooth as can can be expected, as the clutch has to have enough RPMs to spin up and engage the drive. after a half mile ride and a complete stop and start it is doing okay. the odometer showed 207 and I reckon in the area of 20 to 30 hours before this it's first oil change.

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