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Joe Toup

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Joe Toup last won the day on October 10

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About Joe Toup

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  • Birthday 02/02/1967
  • Location Kathleen, GA, USA

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  1. Hey Everyone - I received the new VAG/KKL USB connector that "TMod" recommended. Ordered from Amazon. $10. Also downloaded the free HUD ECU Hacker program. Connected everything up using the adapter plug I previously made for $20 (sources posted in first fault code troubleshooting post) and ran the software. I am thoroughly amazed at the results. The stuff actually works! Better than expected I might add. I was able to see more data and info about the Buck than I ever thought possible. The fact that I can see what is happening while it is running is a very significant tool to have and very important to me when troubleshooting. An OBD reader can't hold water to the amount of data you will get using this procedure. I've uploaded four videos of my experience to a YouTube page where they can be seen. I tried to upload them to the forum but could not get them to play correctly. Hope this info helps some of you if you're riding the fence about trying it. I still have a lot of analysis to do on my results. I ran a log file and trace to see the parameters of the sensor outputs. There is a ton of data to sift through. But I am very impressed at what this software can do for the Buck. To me it was incredibly worth the $10 for the USB cable and the $20 for the OBD connector and adapter plug. Best $30 I've spent in a long time. Here is the link. Hopefully I figured out how to make them public. Let me know if it doesn't work. They are in order 1-4. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLSPgFjy3k2f4zKL4D927l2zyN7Kug2XF2 - JT
  2. Sounds great. My USB cable arrives today. I downloaded the software. I’m giving it a go once I get the cable. I’ll post my results so others can see.
  3. There is a lot of great info also being passed around on this FB page of anyone is interested. This is where I found the post for the real-time software and reader. https://www.facebook.com/groups/187829158450490/?ref=share
  4. Team, this guy posted some great info on a FB forum I am in for Massimos. He offers softeare and “how to” for looking at real time data from the ECU. I get no $ from it, not endorsing it, just passing it along in case someone else is as curious as I am. I looked it over and it seems legit. He has the pin outs correct and the software does look promising. The cable I built for myself is very similar to one he shows. Might be worth a look to try and find ways to troubleshoot these machine better. (Link edited - Previous link was bad - This one should work) https://www.norwestsuspension.com/delphi-mt-05-diagnostics-readerrecorder
  5. Where did you find that information? The label on my buck specifically states 87 octane. See bottom left of pic. It is also a 390.8 cc Top left
  6. Not that I’ve been able to find. I’ve looked for Massimo, Bennche, Cazador, Linhai, etc. since they are all the same with different badges. Does not seem to be any aftermarket info out there yet. We are on our own! If you find something, I’m sure everyone would be interested.
  7. Agree. It’s not worth the paper it’s printed on. It’s about as useful as the owners manual. I wasted $75 plus shipping and wish I could get a refund.
  8. Check this link out. It does a better job explaining what I was trying to convey with the CVT and high gear versus low gear in a UTV. https://www.standard.net/lifestyle/recreation/atv-adventures-choosing-the-right-gear-range-is-important-on-the-trail/article_389a114b-488b-55b9-a6ce-80b3b5788563.html
  9. LoL. Sorry. 1/4 inch drive. Typo. Wife was driving. I left my readers at home. 1/2 drive would be perfect.
  10. Based on what you experienced, my money is still on the belt (90%) or perhaps the clutch (10%). Do a Google search for CVT theory of operation. It will explain the difference between operating in high versus low. There are some great articles about Polaris CVT. The theory is pretty much the same. Do that oil change very soon. It’s needed. But after you do, try running it up and down hills again in both high and low gear. I’d put a 6-pack on it that it still throws the CEL in high gear. Final thought. If it’s working in low, ride it and enjoy it. But sooner or later you’ll probably need a new belt. My hunch is when in high gear going down a hill, if the belt has stretched some, due to constant riding in high, there’s probably not enough tension on the primary and secondary clutch assemblies to keep them in sync thus causing driveline slip. Which is probably causing the crank position sensor to see the slip difference/ratio from engine output compared to the wheel rotations. This would throw your check engine light. When you put it in low, some tension stays on the driveline as you go down hill and your crank position sensor is probably not seeing any slippage. Again, just a hunch. But the results of your “experiment” are leaning me in that direction. You will be able to rule out the oil sump situation if you change it and it still throws the CEL afterwards in high going down hill. Good news is, you are zeroing in on the culprit and we all learned something. This has been a very interesting thread.
  11. 19mm socket, 3/4 inch drive ratchet, 6 inch extension. Comes right out.... Once you break it loose, put one of those deep funnels under it through the hole in the plastic skid plate, then reach in from the driver's side and turn the nut until is falls out and into the funnel. The screen will drop out with it, Once the oil is drained, drop your funnel and pull out the screen and plug. Check for debris in the screen. Then clean everything off with paper towels. Reinstall. Take your dipstick out, unscrew the tube, then use a smaller funnel with a tip that goes into the hole. Add 1.25 quarts of 10W40 UTV oil made for a wet clutch. Reinstall tube and dipstick. Check oil level, Boom! Done. Be sure to check the oil level after you run it to make sure it didn't drop any. And check for leaks at the plug and dipstick too to make sure you got it closed back up right. Then hit the trails....
  12. J. Fulciniti - After doing some digging on the engine, I believe you are correct. Found some info using the engine family from the identiplate under the seat on the frame rail (Shows displacement, spark plug gap, timing, etc). Turns out there is a company called Taizhou Nebula Power Co., Ltd., located in Taizhou City, Jiangsu Province, China. They make a series of UTVs that is nearly identical (minus badging) to the Massimo, Bennche, Linhia, and Cazador. They have a model # XY450U-A. The engine model family (KMMMX.391XYB) can be seen on the attached spreadsheet line #884. The irony is, the engine is nearly identical to a Hisun the best I can tell. I have not been able to find anything yet that convinces me it is made any differently. They may have sold the series to Taizhou. Not sure since Hisun is still in production. In theory, they should operate the same and be repaired and maintained similarly as a Hisun. The website for Taizhou Nebula Power Co is here: http://www.tznebula.com/eng/ Some of their links, while not specifically named "Massimo", do provide some great info that should be beneficial as we build a repository of owner background info on these Massiomo/Bennche/Cazador/Linhai 400's. Stinks we have to do this kind of searching to overcome the shortfalls of the company. But it is what it is. off-road-mc-atv-utv-recveh-2006-present.xlsx
  13. I wouldn't necessarily say that. I go up and down some steep hills in high and low. Have never had the CEL. But that doesn't mean I won't. Your problem is one that may affect many of us. Will be interesting to see what the real cause it. Many of us curious. This kind of stuff is in my veins!
  14. Did you drive down the hill in low at all?
  15. The Fumoto would probably make it much easier to drain the oil before pulling the screen to check for particulates. Changing oil makes a mess unless you have a funnel right up next to the plug. Great concept. My preference would still be to remove the screen after draining.


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