Merchant Mariner

It lives!!!..... Sort of. Test ran it today and turbo isn't spitting oil. It barely ran until I cut back the fuel with the EJK since I put the 19lb injectors in. Don't have all the inter cooler piping hooked up so the compressor wasn't pumping air in. Taking it to the exhaust shop tomorrow for a down pipe and a custom bend intercooler pipe to tie it all together

JMC CONTACT INFO

Sales Email: [email protected]

General Email: [email protected]

Parts Email: [email protected]

Telephone: (480) 545-1693

JMC Powersports

381 E. Chilton Drive

Chandler, AZ. 85225

www.jmcpowersports.com

When you say the evac pump worked to well, the engine didn't run dry did it?

Not sure if JMC motors has viper parts, but I've gotten a couple stock parts for my T2 from them and been really happy with their service. If your not having any luck picking one up, I'd try giving them a call.

HUGE HUGE PROPS TO JOSH @ NO LIMITZ (goindeep). In two days he made and shipped an exhaust manifold to me! Talk about putting a rush on it and helping a guy out in a bind, thanks a million.

Now with the new manifold I was able to locate the turbo where it needed to be, run the oil lines where they need to be, and eliminate a number of other problems I was trying to contend with. The manifold mounted up with no problems, bolt holes and all. Everything is hooked up with the exception of intercooler piping. Need a couple more hours tomorrow and it should be ready to go to the exhaust shop Monday morning for a quick downpipe fab and I will be rocking.......provided nothing else goes wrong.

Called goindeep and he is hooking me up with a better exhaust manifold. The mounting location is killing me, with the new manifold I will be able to mount the turbo in the correct orientation to get the oil port pointed down. Then I can put it into the oil pan as suggested. Can not believe oil return has been this much of a pain!

Hope I can get this thing together and going in time for my trip! One step forward, THREE steps back.....

Thanks everyone for the input.

Turbo mounting location is lower than the valve cover. I cut the cat off and welded the turbo flange on there, so it's basically at the end off the stock header. I have the oil pressure/supply tee'd off of the oil pressure sensor. I was pretty hesitant about popping a hole in the block like Lenny mentioned previously. Thanks to Kinarfi's picture I feel a lot better about getting in there, so big thanks!

goindeep, I'll give you a call. I'm anxious to hear what you worked out.

So.... Going back to the oil lines, returning it to the valve cover doesn't work. The oil having to go up hill on exiting the turbo is too much back pressure for oil to overcome. it starts blowing past the seals and out the exhaust. Looks like I will have to put it back to the oil pan and let gravity help.

When you say drill and tap into the oil pan, is the pan thick enough to cut enough threads into? What kind of fitting did you use, NPT x Barb?

no c ooler yet lean i think tries to die acts like detinate.or run backward

I have an extra set of 4 injectors that I was planning to sell if you are interested. They are reconditioned Bosh type III 19 lb injectors, skinny body style. It was $100 for a set of 8 or $60 - 80 for a set of 4. Flow matched, rebuilt with new parts. Let me know if interested (or anyone else is).

My install updates as of this weekend.....see picture

Hey guys, going with the intercooler was decided based on trying to increase the density of the air charge, like Lenny said. Do we really need it, no. But to get the most out of the turbo set up, I decided to go that route. Plus, as I understand it, you can run higher boost pressures with a cooler air charge as the hotter and higher the pressure in the cylinder, the more prone to early ignition. The real benefit of cooling probably depends on style of driving.

This is the "universal turbo kit" on eBay that says its for Joyners. Like I said, wish I had just bought the items individually myself instead of falling for easy ideas of the "kit". It didn't even include the items that it was supposed to. Aside from the pipe size issues, it was supposed to include a boost controller, instead it had 3 boost gauges.....what am I gonna do with three boost gauges? Sell them I guess. Also, if anyone is considering this deal, skip it. Things I know now that I wish I knew before - its just a T15, oil cooled only, turbo and universal intercooler kit from CX racing. You can buy directly from them for half the price. Thankfully I did bargain the price down so I didn't get ripped off too badly that way, but I'm still sinking money into it buying all the little bits and pieces to make everything work together.

The kit I bought has turned out to be anything but a kit. Turbo compressor inlet and outlet smaller than intercooler piping supplied in the "kit". So there's no way to hook it up. Of course no one in town has anything to adapt it with. Then the straight pipe with the flange welded into it for the BOV is 2.25", the intercooler in/outlet are something over 2.25" but less than 2.50", and all the piping and connectors are 2". But wait, turbo compressor inlet is 1.75" and outlet is 1.5". Got a lot of cool s#*t, but none of it works together. I wish I had it to purchase all over again. I would buy the individual components myself. Then I'd know they would fit.

I'm not sure but i would think that turbo is pretty big for a 1100cc? Too big turbo would make turbo lag

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I'm inclined to agree. There are two problems with installing too big a turbo, the first obviously being spool time. The second being pressure wave consistency. Basically if you look at a performance map for your turbo and your engine numbers put you to the left of the "islands" the turbo is too big for the exhaust to create a constant force on the turbo which can cause damage to the turbo.

Someone chime in here if I'm not getting it explained right.

Then again, don't take my word for it yet! I don't have mine up and running yet to find out if I calculated mine too small. It sure looks too small, but its supposed to be for 1000-1300cc, and my calculations for the engine numbers put it right in the middle of the performance map. We'll see in a few days I hope!

Got it, thanks!

Flipped intake, cut flange off stock adapter, flipped it, welded it back on.

Bent and welded pipe in to mount inter cooler

Welded turbo flange to stock exhaust manifold where the cat used to be

Making some progress putting in the turbo. How do you add pics to your posts?

Just had a disturbing thought I the whole sand tire deal. I was planning to use the stock 14" with 27" tires upfront and 33" on back. Now I'm second guessing if I can do that. Will the different tire height-size, equaling different wheel speed front to back, destroy the drive train? I'm not sure how/where the 4x4 engages. If I don't engage the 4x4, will any one part of the drive train be locked into the two different wheel speeds?

Got to looking at it and I will have to tee the sending unit. I don't have a filter housing per say, filter screws onto block. A for the oil return, can I drop that into the valve cover? Has anyone done that?

So I finally got home yesterday after a 4 month hitch for work. Today I started looking into installing my turbo. Wondering where you hook the oil feed/return up to the engine? Help!

The dune pass is different from the CA non-resident pass. As I said before you have to have the AZ off-road sticker or be street license to not be required to purchase the CA non-resident pass. The Dune Pass is a different and required pass to play in the dunes.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Thanks for the clarification. Did some more research, dune pass separate from ohv pass. One dune pass per tow vehicle, and one campsite pass. Should cover us?

Correction to my post...Railroad Tracks and Washes are on the East Side and Ghecko Road is on the West Side....

When I say Campsites I mean places that YOU can Park and Camp...nothing designated....No Power and No Water....you MUST come completely prepared....or with lots of $$$$ for the Glamis Store and Vendor Row just West of the Store...lol

LOL, got it. Take anything we might think we might need, and money (lots of it). Pic a spot in the sand and make camp. Figure the rest out when we are there.

You have to have a Dunes permit, cost about $50. You also have to have your Arizona Off-road permit or license for the Street. All the info can be found by searching the ridingarizona.com site. There are rangers checking all the time at the dunes. There are limited number of sites with hookups. Most people dry camp / boondock.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

I have been reading up on RA, found this link in one of the threads.

http://www.ohv.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=25733

There's a lot of info out there but some contradictions. What I get from that link is that I don't need a CA non-resident pass. Is that different than a dune pass?

Whips/Flags are MANDATORY for everything....

The permits are something I cannot comment on as I have not been to Glamis a few years....however, to answer the "CARB" approved question....yes the Trooper and ALL Team Joyner USA models are/were EPA and CARB approved....

Camp sites are everywhere....but I personally like the "Washes" next to the Railroad Tracks on the West side of the Dunes south of the Glamis Store...anywhere south of Wash 7, Than there is Ghecko Road on the East side of the Dunes...I have only camped over there once....but it has Restrooms preiodically along the road and so on....the Washes are STRAIGHT UP camping or RVing...

Riding south to the 8 or to Butter Cup is possible yes....it is a nice 30-40 miles....

I hope this helps...

Thanks for the info! Do any of the areas have power and/or water?

Who can tell me about the legalities of running my T2 and a dirt bike in CA.? Spark arresters, safety flags, and permits right? The permits are confusing.... I need a permit to camp, a permit for a campfire, a permit for the T2 and bike to ride on the dunes, a permit per car/truck I drive in? Are any of these permits one in the same?

There are a few others that can answer better then I about it but i have only driven past it and from what i saw there are plenty good open areas where you can do both. When are you going there?

The dates are not set in stone yet, but it will be around Nov. 19-20

Ok, this deviates a little from the thread topic but I thought I would try continuing it here and see if I get any traction.

Like I mentioned in the beginning, I'm planning to make my first trip to the dunes. Glamis sand dunes to be exact. What sites are best for tent camping vs trailer camping? can you ride from north end to south end? Any pointers or tips in general are greatly appreciated! I am meeting up with in-laws from LA who are driving down and I want to show them a good time, know as much about this ahead of time that I can.

Nice bit of info there, Thanks!

They are 19 lb/hr. from what I have been able to figure out, they are out of a Ford. Seems Ford used these and the larger bodied style for serveral years, mainly in mustangs and trucks. Not sure that we have enough room to fit the larger body injectors.

Large body, 19lb Ford injectors, EV1 connector

Do these look like the right body type/style? From the pictures I was able to find of our stock injectors, these look to be the same style. (Sorry, I'm 5,000 miles away right now and can't just go out to the garage and look for myself )