bigdan120

I want to put on power brakes on mine I have not come up with anything yet.

Hey Charlie!

Could be the master cylinder bleeding off. Is the rotor warped?

Charlie on here did a shock upgrade I think just last year. I would check his out looks like it worked out really good.

I have a clunking like that in the front. Turns our 2 of my heims are blew out and banging around.

Hey guys was out beating the old Joyner up a hill that I buttomed out on and bam! Right rear axle!!!!!

Does anyone have a used one available? Got to pull it apart it looks to have just destroyed the

Cage that the main axle shaft splines into blew apart and lost some bearings. To clarify it is the rear

Inner passenger side or whole axle. And yes I think I found the culprit. Worn swing arm bushings.

As Always. Thanks!

For the starter solenoid you can use a 96 Geo Tracker.. Replaced my solenoid with one. Bolted right up... 1.6 GEO motor ..Make sure you check it out before buying for the starter motor part. I do not know if it spins CW or CCW plus I did not count the teeth on bendix. The solenoid is 78.00 at Advance.. 25.00 For used starter at junk yard.

There's a Mitsubishi one that is close. I posted about it I think.

Someone will reply if not already. I have replaced mine with stock clutch. Seems fine but if I had money would have went after a better clutch.

You could do this and it might clean it out...LOL then I needed starter.......

Had a tractor that wouldnt release the clutch far enough.. turn out Clutch pressure plate was bad.

Cable issues? Release bearing/Throw out bearing? Pressure plate? Thats what I would look at.

It's a shame there all plastic. Lighter for sure but I'd have it fubared the first day. Looks pretty. I break my plastics on mine but we can leave them off and look half normal. Seen one at a trade show. Plastic is defiantly in style.

Hey went and measured it...Man is it cold out! 1.50 outside Dia. all the tubing cage front section and all is the same.

Hey Charlie!

Anyways the tubing size that is on mine doesnt any regular pipe that we could find. I can get you a tubing diameter tomorrow off mine. Maybe DOM might be correct sizing. Its fairly hard to get ahold of where I am located.

I did it to protect my side plastics. If I had to do it again I would pull plastic and attach aluminum and not put them on. With that said the way we did my doors they are even with the curve out that we built them with. They are the same height as the under carrage. I have to measure them later.

Sounds like a syncro to me. I really dont know who posted about having one apart. I sometimes I google joyner t2 plus what I am looking for to find different things even on our own site...

I found this don't know if its gonna be any help...Should be.......Good Luck

http://www.utvboard.com/topic/1765-possible-substitute-parts-for-joyners/

Hey guys long time no post from me. Sorry about all that. Does anyone have a front shock there willing to part with? PM me and let me know. Thanks guys!

I haven't figured it all out yet. I have to pull it apart and look things over. Maybe just a aluminum plate. Maybe a escort motor but not much out there performance wise for it.

I have not yet but I am going to do a Honda Non Vtec I think. Parts are cheap and upgrades are bountiful.

Lol They should add it. I use it just to loosen up dirt and rust on alot of things.

To get that dang circlip loosened up.

The long-term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture.[5] This is diluted with a volatile hydrocarbon to give a low viscosity fluid which can be sprayed and thus penetrate crevices. The volatile hydrocarbon then evaporates, leaving the oil behind. A propellant (originally a low-molecular weight hydrocarbon, now carbon dioxide) provides gas pressure in the can to force the liquid through the spray nozzle, then evaporates away.

These properties make the product useful in both home and commercial fields; lubricating and loosening joints and hinges, removing dirt and residue, and extricating stuck screws and bolts are common usages. The product also may be useful in displacing moisture, as this is its original purpose and design intent.

Due to its lightness (i.e., low viscosity), WD-40 is not always the preferred oil for certain applications. Applications that require higher viscosity oils may use motor oils, while those requiring a mid-range oil could use honing oil.[6]. Just sayin.

Ok wd40 it. Then get a buddy to help. Use a pry bar 3' is what I used on my rear placed in where you can then straight across from it use the punch bar and big hammer. Wood dont work we'll cause it gives to much. But saves on damage. That's why I use brass bar.

I used a brass 11/2" x 14 round bar. I put it on the back side off the inner cv the best I could on say a 45 degree through front frame and I beat it with a 3 lb hammer. Works pretty good. I use this method a good bit.

There is prob a short in the wiring. This problem has been discussed on here. Most just take and rewire it on there own with a relay. There is alot of great info on here just have to look around some.