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Posts posted by trackguy22
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I've got 30x10x14 bighorns on mine and really like them. Good all around tire. For the length of these, the taller the better.
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No restrictor in my setup. Needs the volume for lubrication and cooling. My $.02.
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Check for a bad ground connection.
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i have a 2012 t2 with a turbo. Drivability is good but at a certain speed,cruising speed,the engine goes way lean unless I get out of the throttle and at a slower vehicle speed it works fine. Full throttle is good. Changed the tps. Has anyone use an emanage computer.
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I changed my brake pads to a set of sintered iron pads. Big difference. Last longer and works a lot better.
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Try the post lower down the list. Alternative fuel pump.
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Stock regulator. Still works fine.
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- Mine still works perfect. Just think, this pump replaces factory ones that are made to supply fuel for a 200+ hp engine. Personally I think the factory Joyner pumps are junk. Just my opinion though. This pump should last a 100,000 plus miles. The one I have runs just under 80 psi. In a turbo system your pump has to supply running fuel pressure and extra pressure to compensate for boost pressure. I'm running about 8 psi boost. No intercooler and no issues. Hope this helps.
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Another part no. for alternative pump is. P74028 Carter. Napa is E2000.
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I did. My anti virus blocked it. Some kind of phishing bug.
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I run the same controller. I might have a tps issue. I have the same thoughts on the intercooler. Minimal lag.
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I'm running 7 psi. No intercooler. What programmer you running? Factory pump is a POS. Didn't last long. I have an air fuel ratio gauge. I have to watch it, sometimes goes lean. More tuning I guess.
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Was riding last weekend in south east Sask. on our holidays and had a pump failure. I located a fuel pump from a mid 80's to early 90's ford pickups had an externally mounted fuel pump on the frame. Bolts in the factory bracket. 75-95 psi. Works great with mine as I have a turbo set-up. Cheap too. 150 Can. dollars. E2000 Napa part. It also crosses to a carter no. too. If it can supply fuel to a small V-8, it shouldn't have a problem with mine. Was due for an upgrade anyway. Maybe a boost increase will be next.. Thought I would pass that on.
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I don't think I would be too worried about a little heat. Just think of some cars with the fuse box under the hood. On a hot they probably see 200 plus degrees.
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Mine is a 2012 and the fan never runs until it gets to a certain temp. I have a manual switch if I want it to run as cool as the thermostat temp.
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I put a manual override switch so you can turn it on whenever I want. The sensor will still turn the fan on if you forget too. The thermostat temp is 185 and the fan turns on at 205 like most vehicles.
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Also fuel pickup in the tank doesn't go to the bottom of the tank. Check pickup tube.
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I had that happen once. The fuel rubber fuel line was pinching off because of the loop in the fuel line was to small and restricting fuel flow.
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Just a couple of pics. The turbo header I had to modify slightly because the turbo would have to be mounted backwards from clearance issues. Just a slight cut and weld to angle the turbo down and all is good. The other pic is my custom oil pan. 7 L capacity. Thought the engine oil was running too hot, but turned out to be oil gauge problem when hot. Factory gauge and sender is crap. I prefer this driveline setup compared to a belt drive any day, but to each his own. I would like to see an actual auto trans with a hi low range would be the ultimate. I have a 75 blazer 4x4 automatic great for the mud.
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I have found the best thing I bought for my trooper was a air fuel ratio gauge along with the fuel controller silver bullet sells. You can then set it exactly where it needs to be. By the way I have a turbo setup on my trooper. 6 lbs. boost no intercooler. Best money I ever spent on this. I got my kit from http://www.klung-motor.com/Accessories.asp?smallclass=Turbo kit and ECU&bigclass=Accessories&page=2. I didn't use the ecu that came with the kit. Too complicated for me. The increase in torque was amazing. I have 30 inch mud lites, no shortage of power to turn them in the mud. I try to post pics. Haven't figured that one out yet.
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No overheating, but did add a turbo and any performance engine I have built benefits from a cooler running thermostat, less chance of detonation. Just thought I would ask before I remove the old one to cross it with one that will fit.
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Hi, has anyone replaced the thermostat in a t2 with a colder one?
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in Joyner UTV SxS Forum
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I cut the tubes on the original adapter attached to the head, flipped it around and re welded it. Simple. Mine is turboed as well.