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mouser58

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Posts posted by mouser58

  1. No one has ever joined that has one of the new ones so don't know! Sorry we can't help.

    BUT, no one has had problems with the axles on the Trooper. The few that have had an issue with their CV-joint made adjustments or added shocks that went beyound the design angle of the CV-joint and that has only been a couple. The rest of us no problems. The only real problem was the setup from factory on the ring & pinion and that was cured with Lenny's diff upgrade.

    Only cable problem was early on with the trans shifting cables but that again seem to only happen to a few. I have an extra set because I was concerned and now the cables have been sitting for 4 year now. Again it may have been the result of hard shifting by a few. I don't hard / speed shift and have never had a problem.

    Best I can do!

    rocmoc n AZ

    No Poo Poo for me..Looks a Teryx in the spring.. DOn't want to do a diff job on a brand new ride after paying $$$$... Thanks guys for the reply . Will keep in touch with the forum and maybe one day when they get it right from the factory, I will get me a Trroper..

  2. Hey guys..Haven't been on for a couple years.... Really interested in getting a Joyner Trooper.. When I was on here before you were having rearend and cable problems. I have read that they have upgraded the rear axles to CVs. I am looking to buy (possibly) in the spring and was wondering if the problems Have been addressed. The upgrade articles were EXCELLENTback then, but I just want something to buy and ride. Will be doing the 30 or 31" tire upgrade, but that is all I want to do. How is the reliabilty situation going now....

    SO.... Why no answers here????? THey either must be same ol, same ol, or did they get upgraded?????

  3. Hey guys..Haven't been on for a couple years.... Really interested in getting a Joyner Trooper.. When I was on here before you were having rearend and cable problems. I have read that they have upgraded the rear axles to CVs. I am looking to buy (possibly) in the spring and was wondering if the problems Have been addressed. The upgrade articles were EXCELLENTback then, but I just want something to buy and ride. Will be doing the 30 or 31" tire upgrade, but that is all I want to do. How is the reliabilty situation going now....

  4. NOW I remember. Sorry, getting old and forgetful (just ask my wife) Does anyone make Hi Per cams or Hi Comp pistons for those Chery engines yet???? Might as well juice it up while it is out on the bench. Even just shaving the head .0004 or .0005 would up it a bunch.

  5. The daughter has totalled her Saturn Ion twice and I have out it back together both times. If and when I get her another car, I will have a donor motor and drivetrain for something. Pipe buggys with old VW engines are big here in W.Va so I will pick me up a chassis and build something in a couple years from now.

  6. Here's an idea I saw on Youtube. A guy took a Honda front wheel drive and put it in a homemade tube buggy. He stuck it in sideways and used one side of the output shaft to the front diff and the other side to the rear diff. You would have to figure out a way to lock the tranny up so, it wouldn't shift from front to back under load like front wheel drives shift from one side to another.

  7. Hi Plumber,

    We're all watching closely to see if you've solved the click no go problem. I think I'll keep clicking the key until someone comes up with an answer. I'm not looking forward to having to pull the starter.

    Saturday I'm taking a 55 mile ride at around 10,000 feet elevation. I hope it doesn't poop out on the trail. It will be embarrassing if I have to get some ATV to give me a pull to get started. I'll try and park on a hill to have some way to bump start if it's needed.

    Thanks for your input!

    Gumball

    Although continous clicking might be working, beware, you are slamming the solenoid gear in and out on the ring gear and will cause premature wear. I am pretty sure (with the costs of the other parts) that taking out the flywheel and either replacing the starter ring or perhaps a whole flywheel will be pretty $$$$$$$$

  8. Most people will agree with you on upgrading suspension as most UTVs need this, but at this time the thought of having to pay $12000 and then have to do a Rear driveshaft replacement ( if not already changed to CV), then rebuild both diffs (due to weak ring gear bolts) just for the sake of reliability, not a performance mod, does not give a real good sense of smarts.

  9. Probably backlash. You will need to shim the ring gear towards the pinion. Most cars are .0005-.0007. You'll have to check with Joyner for specs on you rear-end. If these are coming with way too much backlash, THAT could be causing the ring gear bolt problem.

  10. I know this is not the post for this, but I was wondering if any of you have tried the foam filters (UNI) instead of the K&N filters with the prefilter set-up and if you noticed any difference in performance after you added that long snorkle on your intake tube.

  11. Looks good, but I would think that the bars right behind the driver should have some sort of an "X" connection to keep the cage from shifting to the left or right in a hard side to side roll over. There is no support to stop a sideways shift, or and "X" on the roof might help too.

  12. This might be a little late for yours, but when I submerged mine out riding, I always took mine and free wheeled it out when I got home and winched it up my driveway hooked to the back of my pickup a couple time to make sure it got warmed up and dried out before I put it away. This also made sure I run the cables up real tight and aligned on the drum ready for the next trip. I had the steel cable on mine and would spray it with WD once a month if I used it alot.

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