Jacksnife

Hi, can someone please verify if my timing marks are correct? The images are of the timing marks at TDC. the Crank/Cam marks look right on, but I was surprised to see the cam's timing marks completely off the page. I was thinking I had it 180 out somehow because that's the symptoms I'm experiencing when trying to start it. When I'm cranking it, and trying at full throttle, I hear some light (muffled) backfiring that sounds like on the intake side.

I was not able to locate that one IGN1 fuse going to headlamp rocker switches. Having the winch working through me for a loop, but the lights fixed themselves before I followed winch wire to its rocker switch... so it is still unknown to me how it was possible. I'm guessing the wiring diagram is only a guideline and not a true manufacturing document (at least not for my model) I had 12V at the ignition switch, but not at the contact switches. I also had no reverse lights, horn, and 4x4... and all fuses were good. I followed IGN1 from the ignition switch (yellow wire) about 20" to a connector where it turned blue. After the wire turned blue there is a splice going to the horn switch, then the rest of the cable bundle went to the back. I didn't go further because it started working. It must have been a bad connection at that connector where the wire color changed from yellow to blue. Can you tell me where the wire turns from solid blue to blue/yellow stripe? There is no fuse going to the horn, and the splice looks factory to me. Maybe the horn fuse is actually the one going to the headlight rocker switches?

I was having a very similar problem with no lights or 4x4, but winch was working. I looked all around for a gnd next to the horn switch, but couldn't find anything. I did notice the blue wire coming from the IGN1 straight to the horn so I started smashing on it and voila... everything starts working again! wth!? I did wiggle that 4 pin connector so I cleaned it real good and put it back together... knowing this gremlin will soon be back

I searched the Chery engine until I found a car model. Then searched the car model on a Chinese autoparts store and found them for $16/ea lol! I haven't tried them yet... I was going to ask someone travelling to China to grab some for me. The company I work for has offices in China so we get people over there every now and then.

Has anyone found a fuel injector that will work on a stock motor? Something I can pick up at Autozone etc... I have one that will not cooperate! I've tried cleaning it with seafoam and I can see it pulsing manually and on the motor. But when I put it back together it does nothing at idle. I can disconnect the cable to it and no change in idle (which is rough) If I move the injector to another cylinder the problem follows it. So... I need a new one to try.

The bearings are tight... all that play is the rack going up and down. I though about fitting a piece of phenolic between the rack and the top plate... but for $140+shipping I might as well replace the whole thing (if it bolts right on)

Score!! $140 - http://www.protodie.com/Steering-Rack-End-Load_p_72.html I'm pretty sure that one is the same one made by Latest Rage (http://www.latestrage.net/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=944&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1〈=en) which should be a direct bolt on replacement. The only thing I'm worried about are the splines. I read the Joyner version has 32 teeth and this one has 36 teeth?? I need to take it apart and count I guess.

Crappy video of steering box play... https://youtu.be/1i86n12J5l4

No, it happens when I am not in 4x4 or locked.

Ok, if it's still there after changing the steering box I will. I can do $300 for power steering... not $1200+ like some of the other solutions out there. My wife will need it for sure!

No, I haven't gone fast enough in 4x4 to even try it. 4x4 all locked is so hard to turn it's basically useless unless I'm in a jam (mud) It never happens cruising down the pavement. It appears to only happen when one of the front wheels come off the ground. I don't know if it clunks when the wheel leaves the ground or when it hits back on the ground, but it is violent. I would compare it to a 5lb sledge hitting the frame (with considerable force). My steering box is so loose that I'm going to try that first. I'm considering a replacement that might help ease up the 4x4 steering vs just applying the looseness 'fix'.

It ran pretty good yesterday, no stuttering or sputtering just good clean acceleration. It was running much cooler than normal too. It's getting happier with its new home : )

I take it back... when wiggling one wheel the other does not wiggle. Both of them wiggle independently and the steering wheel has about 2"-3" play.

I think my steering box is toast? I can wiggle the front wheels back and forth a good 1/4" (maybe more) side to side. The wheels are locked together pretty good, meaning when I wiggle one wheel the other wheel also moves about the same amount. The steering column does not move at all. I'm going through my front end to find that ridiculously load clunking noise (i.e. something is going to break loud)

I got it as close to 49.8 as I could : ) It still doesn't run perfect yet though. It sputters sometimes at full throttle and feels like it loads up at crawling throttle. It is new to me and I had to start with a complete overhaul, so I don't know how many other problems I need to deal with... but it feels like some sensors are AFU. The motor was smoking like a chimney when I got it, and by the looks of the motor internals they ran it like that a loooong time. I'm guessing the O2 sensors are trash? I wish I could hook up something to read the computer. There must be a way, I'll study that today.

Found it on pg 53 in the 2009 manual Fuel pressure adjustment Never make unnecessary adjustments. The factory recommended settings are correct for most applications. The recommend fuel pressure is 3.5kgf/m2 (49.8 psi). It’s not necessary to adjust fuel pressure unless the fuel pressure really needs to be adjusted. To adjust the fuel pressure: 1. Loose the lock-nut with a 14mm spanner as the following picture. 2. Turn the adjustment-bolt clockwise with a inner hexagon spanner to increase the fuel pressure, and counterclockwise to decrease the fuel pressure. 3. Keeping one eye on the fuel pressure indicator while turn the adjustment-bolt, when the indicator shows about 3.5kgf/m2 (49.8 psi), stop turning, and tighten the lock-nut. Until it shows "about 49.8psi" haha

Easy enough! problem solved. The regulator is just like any spring loaded regulator. Cleaned it up and it's ok now. I have it set at 60lbs and it runs fine... but I think I remember reading 73lbs?

Pumped a whole tank out no problems... cool as a cucumber. Next I hooked up the regulator to see if I could get a tank through it... nothing coming out of the regulator at all!! so I think I was overheating my pump is all. I don't think I'll find one that mounts like this one, so I'll first try taking it apart haha

Oops! never mind... it is crapping out even with the fuel pump directly connected to a battery. When the pressure starts dropping I can pinch the output hose of the pump... then it'll get a burst of fuel and fill back up again. It's acting like it's not getting fuel to the pump... or maybe not enough fuel and getting too hot? I'll go run it into a gas can until the tank is empty to see if it has good constant flow.

When I start the motor it kicks in the pump, pressures up and starts every time. But after a while at idle it will start to cycle power to the pump.... then finally no power to the pump at all and dies. Pump works fine hooked straight to battery. So I have some kind of electrical issue. I cleaned the contacts on the fuse and relay... even swapped them with the fan's, no help. Now I'm thinking there is some kind of oil pressure switch inline with the fuel pump but I can't follow the wiring diagrams very well. Has anyone worked on this circuit? PS. I replaced the fuel pump with a Premium 5211007 (autozone) and it works fine on straight battery power. It fits better than the Bosch too because it's fatter and comes with hard rubber surround. I changed the line from the filter to the pump to 3/8 too.

Kinarfi, I put some pics of the valve assembly and head in this area - http://www.utvboard.com/gallery/album/142-engine-build-pics/ If you need anything more please let me know... I have the parts to put it back together this weekend. Lenny, I was more concerned with grit of hone than anything... I just remembered it was a big deal (grit) last time I built a BBC. I think for these normal rings it's the 280 grit hone? I still need to search.