BeeZee62

I bought a high power electric cooling fan from silver bullet today when I run it hard it gets a little hot he said that this one makes more cfm and it will not run hot no more I'll let you know how good it works I didn't want to move my radiator up on top of rear deck

I really didn't have a choice but to move the radiator. In its original position it was getting clogged with alot of grass and debris while riding. Living on the prairie alot of our riding areas are covered with tall grasses, etc ... I'd have to stop and clean off the radiator every 20 minutes or so.

I like the idea of the map however I too have had the problem of confirming my location, selecting from the list and then is shows up two provinces (states) away.

Has anyone install a better radiators fan on there t2

Haven't had a need for a new fan yet. I was having some overheating issues but as soon as I moved the radiator up on top of the rear deck the problem was solved.

No he did not, I just got my 5 kits in last wed.. I have not sold any at the moment but hey when someone needs I got em.. sorry to hijack the thread.. but I also have that shock you need 817-695-1151 m-f 9-6 and sat 9-5

How much are your kits?

I just put a new lever controlled 4 wheel drive lockers on my t2 real easy to do it cost me 125.00

Did you get the kit from No Limits?

If anyone has a stock rear shock that is good please let me know what you want for it. I blew one out on saturday and have a few more trips left this season and just cant swing the expense of aftermarket shocks at the time

I have a complete set of shocks available as I've upgraded to Kings last year. I have no idea what they're worth but I'm willing to trade them off. What I need is one of those new lever controlled 4 wheel drive lockers.

This isnt good, I sure hope someone else does take the Us line and that its not all talk. This was my biggest fear when purchasing a China made product. It have alot of fun with it but I have had issues most of the time out. I got back from a ride last night and the dr rear shock blew out and the tire hit the fender and cracked it. Not sure what im going to do about fixing it now

Both my rear fenders have been cracked for over a year now and all I've done is tack them back together with some gorilla glue, aluminum and rivets. So far their still holding together. I am planning on replacing the fenders with some semi-truck mud flaps. I've already added fender extensions using mud flaps and they work great, so I figure just replacing the entire fender the same way will work as well.

I have the cab enclosure but no heat ... the cab helps keep the wind off quite a bit mind you. As far as going through snow up to 24" deep I believe you're going to find it pretty rough going. I had my trooper out in the snow last winter and it always got stuck in the deep stuff .. hangs up in the centre. Now if you're riding some place where you can keep your speed up then that might be ok, but as soon as you slow down, expect to do some digging.

Good luck with your trip.

Flatbed I wrote to you awhile back and didn't get an answer or I missed it. Being a newby that could surely be the case. I was told by Lenny that you are the shock guru! So I wanted to know what you thought about the air shocks that King is offering. would they be a good choice or would the dule coil over fox be better. Myself and my customers are not racing just trail riding. I would sure like your advice on this.

Thanks Ed

Fast Ed .. I've got the King shocks and once you get over the price of them, they're great! Last week I inadvertantly jumped my Trooper, had it about 6 feet in the air and it landed really good absorbing the impact without any jarring ... they folks with me were really impressed and I was happy nothing broke. The only reason I chose the Kings was there was no requirement for any mods to install.

Thanks Mike ... I already have the full cab enclosure but have removed it for the summer and yes, I'm actively searching for a good heater core and a way of installing a front windshield defroster.

Well I thought I had the starting issue all sorted out but it started happening again. Turns out the starter itself was bad so I had to replace it. Works great now. Thanks for all the help and advice though folks, greatly appreciated.

Well this past week my Trooper underwent a transformation. I had a set of King shocks installed, relocated my rad, and had the front/rear diffs rebuilt and installed a new starter. Now all I have to do is tweek the suspension to match my over all riding habits. But I must admit the King shocks are an amazing upgrade! I've posted pics in my gallery. If there's anyone else with King shocks I'd like to know what your nitrogen PSI is. I've got my fronts at 160 and rears at 200 right now. I don't know how to measure the pre-load on the springs but the top of the springs on the front are 6.5 cm down and the rears are at 7.5 cm Its a much smoother ride than I'm accustomed to so I'm going to keep them there for a bit before I make any changes. I rode for about 100 kms tonight and was able to fly over rough stuff I used to have to slow down for. It was like it wasn't even there!

I had the exact same problem with my Trooper. I removed both the solenoid and starter cleaned them up and then started tracing wires. After a few days of searching the problem ended up being a faulty master switch. After by-passing the master switch I haven't had a problem.

Check the ignition switch. See if its providing power to the trminals that activate the started solenoid. if not, switch is probably bad. I would also run some wires directly to the solenoid from the battery. This should enguage the starter motor and run it. If not, run a heavy wire directly to the hot side of the starter. It's got to be one of 4 things, open circuit in the wiring to the solenoid, bad ignition switch, bad solenoid or bad starter. If it's a bad starter, I would pull it off and open it up to see if the contacts are good and working and if activating the coil sucks in the plunger. Do a process of elimination.

Lenny

Thanks for the Advice Lenny. I traced all the wires back from the ignition. Out of curiosity, I bypassed the master switch and I regained power ... reassembled properly and the power was still there. But it still won't start. I used a screwdriver across the two terminals on the solenoid and there's no spark at all.

Yesterday when I had the solenoid apart there was a fine coating of grease on the inside. Is it possible that its simply not grease by an electrical conductor of some sort? I think I wiped it clean ... wondering if that could be the problem.

Well, now I've lost all power. The battery is good, brand new in fact. There's power to the backside of the master switch but no power to the solenoid. I've tested the wires going to the solenoid for continuity and they're good.

Any ideas?

My gauges appear to be working fine ... when I first start up everything seems normal but after running for a while the temperature gauge is almost in the high end red .... when I come to a stop with the engine still running the oil pressure is almost at zero. I don't believe this should be the case. If anyone can let me know what their normal readings are that would be beneficial. Thanks

Barry

Thanks for all the responses folks ... I've gotten it started. I placed a screwdriver across the two contacts on the solenoid et voila ... it started!

Now my problems are overheating and low oil pressure. All fluid levels are at the proper marks. I went for a short 3 mile ride on nice level ground and the engine temperature was almost redlining. At idle the oil pressure is almost non-existant yet comes up when I rev the engine. This trooper is really starting to get on my nerves ... except for the fact that when it is running, it's alot of fun.

Any ideas on overheating and low oil pressure?

Well, I've been really busy for the past month and haven't had an opportunity to go for a ride. Had the time today, went out and my Trooper won't start. All the electrical accessories work, the fan runs but when the key is turned to the start position there's nothing. I've checked all the fuses and they're all fine. I thought maybe the battery was a bit low so I charged it up .. still nothing so I bought a new battery .. still nothing.

Any ideas folks?

Mine self corrected after about a week of easy running. I also put a heater in the garage to make sure everything had a chance to dry out good.

I had a similar problem and it self-corrected. However, fuse panel in the passenger side foot-well was completely submerged. I'm going to relocate that fuse box to the other side of the firewall, up on top behind the frame bar. Of course I won't be doing this until I install my liftable hood. I'm planning on enclosing the area with high density foam as well as sealing off the air vents on the fuse box cover. To the best of my knowledge, fused don't generate heat.

I was riding kind of rough over the weekend and took my Trooper out for a little ride today. I noticed a loud clunking noise from the right front end while hitting ruts. I wasn't travelling very fast, maybe 30 at best. Now, I'm about as mechanically inclined as a shoe-horn My instincts tell me however that its probably the shocks. I've inspected them and there's no evidence of any fluid leakage .. presuming their filled with oil. If they're gas filled then I've probably blown a seal. I also noticed that the steering is sluggish.

Any help I can get will be most appreciated folks.

Barry

I was thinking about getting the snorkel kit for my trooper. I would like to know if anyone else has it and is it worth it? My friend told me that I would also have to extend all of the vent lines for the fuel tank, differentials, transmission, ect... Is this necessary? I will be doing more mudding than trail riding. Thanks for taking the time to read this. Happy riding!

I just recently installed a snorkle as suggested by kinarfi and it worked great. I was looking at the vent lines from the differentials and I'm going to route them up higher as I do alot of mud and water riding. I'll know later this week if any water/mud seeped into the diffs as I'll be changing out the fluids.

According to the winch manual which you should of received with your UTV on page 15, "Trouble Shooting/ Symptom/ Motor does not turn on/ Possible cause/ Water has entered the motor/ Suggested Action/ Allow to drain and dry. Run in short bursts without load until completely dry".

This sounds like yours so hopefully all will be fine if you let it dry. I know it's tempting to spray CRC or WD40 but only proceed after checking out your not introducing slippage any where.

Cheers Mike

Thanks Mike ... I didn't receive a winch manual. I'll let it dry out completely ... but seeing as I like the mud I may have to invest in a waterproof winch.

I was out playing in the mud on the weekend and my winch was working fine .. pulled out a couple of quads and a Rhino. Needless to say everyone was quite impressed as this was the first time they've seen a Trooper. Once all was said and done, my winch cable wouldn't retract and I can't let any more cable out ... the swtich doesn't work. The winch did get wet .. actually it was submerged a couple of times .. thank goodness for having a snorkle.

My question, is the stock winch a piece of crap and not pooched or after a few good days of drying out will it work again? Or could it be as simple as a fuse?

I've got 30" ITP Mudlites and have no problem at all crawling