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Rasken

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Rasken last won the day on August 25

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About Rasken

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  • Location Degeberga, Sverige

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  • Gender
    Male
  • UTV Brand
    Joyner, Sand viper 650
  1. I just want to say that everything works perfect...after the second rebuild I did change the piston so the arrow points to the right (water pump side) and the connecting rods marks points to the correct side. I had some problems with the distruberator but now it works. Thanks again for all the help, its realy great with this kinds of forum.
  2. Okay, my english is not the best, so what you mean is that flywheel side of the motor is back and the side where you put the alternator, belts and so on is the front? My diffs are original, so far. This orginal motor that i fix now is only for inspection, then i have a ported and tuned zx1000r engine with a skyline diff that i will put in. But cant do it before the swedish inspection company has get me green light for two more years We have to check those machine every two year so everything is okay, and changing the orginal engine is not okay, so stupid. 215 bhp is better in my ears than those 20-25
  3. Great, yes i change them to. So another question that we discussed at work was, Which side of the engine that is told as "front"? I have learned that if the piston has an arrow it will always point at flywheel, and if the arrow goes other way (up/down) it will always point at exhaust. But in the manual it says that piston and rod shall be faced at the same way, to the front. And the one at my job says that front of an engine is where all the belts is, not the flywheel side. So now im confused. Any ides? Shall the piston and rods point at flywheel or the other end?
  4. ...i dissamble everything again tomorrow and start over because i need to fix one of the threads to the top anyway. I think the rods need to be faced with the correct side to the "front" because of the lubrication. There is a a little groove on the "front/right" side of the counterweights (beside the rod) where i think the oil goes through and then lubricate the bearing shell via the rod. There is certainly a little track or something on the rod side that line up with the groove on the counterweight. If no one know for sure, i will let you now after dissamble everything...again...
  5. Hi. I have changed pistons in my engine now and is done, head is on place and everything. BUT now i saw in the joyner service manual that it was important that the connecting rods was installed "the right way" (D. When installing piston and connecting rod assembly into cylinders. The marked surfaces of the connecting rod and piston must face the front of engine (fig.3-10).) The pistons is correctly installed but when i installed the connecting rods i couldnt see any difference from side to side so i just put them back in and now one of them is "rotated" 180 degree if i looked at the texts on them. So, does it matter? Is the manual a little bit "universal" or it is important? Has it to do with some oil lubrication? The only thing i noticed when i intstalled them was the bearing shell that has to be put back right so the notch goes in to the groove. Anyone has any good answear to this? /Jonas
  6. Rasken

    Rasken

  7. Yes i know but then the radie in the connecting rod should be smaller than the piston but its not, its exactly the same. I think they dont now what they are selling. I asked them how i supposed to do and they answear me that i should ask a proffesional mechanicer. What a f**k! But the teflon plugs are ordered, i did a drawing in CAD and gave them to a forge (or what its called) shop to get them fixed to me. So i hope i get them soon so i can drive some miles this year.
  8. No C clip in any side, there is no place for a clip. The solution that i have come up with is to lathe 4 ptfe plastic ends for the pins. There seemes to be no other good solution to this.
  9. Here is one of the new pistons?
  10. Hello. New to this forum and glad to find it. So i have bought a Joyner sand viper 650, 2008 with low compression. I took the motor out and checked the pistons and the ring gap was to big plus the engine had pinged so the upper part of the piston was bad. So i ordered a new piston set with pistons, rings and pins. But here comes the problem, the new piston has no gap for the c-clip but the old piston had...? Why that? The pin floates perfect in both piston and rod shaft so it can wander away and hit the cylinder walls. Anyone that has come across the same problem? Im not new when it comes to mechanic but has never come across this problem before. Hope you understand what i mean, i tried my best. /Jonas Sweden


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