mseawell

2 hours ago, Bill Hughes said:

Just to be clear there are a variety of "Mobile 1"  Synthetic Oils. for example Mobil 1 , 4 Stroke Motorcycle Engine Oil Racing 4T Full Synthetic 10W-40  meets or exceeds the requirements of JASO MA2.

Thanks for the info.

Speaking of the older Massimo's.  I purchased a MSU 700 from Tractor Supply in April of 2016.  I currently have over 3300 miles on it and have been happy with it for the most part.  I was bad to overheat when I first got it and the cooling fan would not come at times.  So I simply bypassed the sensor/switch and added a manual switch for the cooling fan.  I pretty much run the fan all the times.  I've replaced the suspension bushings and a few wheel bearing.   We used it around the farm, trail ride here on the farm and have taken it to the Hatfield-McCoy trails in WV several times.   My wife wishes it had power steering.  Replaced the cheap windshield that came with it.  The original had the fold right in your line of sight, poor design!  Installed bucket seats that I had from a Mazda Miata.  I replaced the clutch and belt (the belt was fine but I replaced it while I was in there) at around 3000 miles, I wasn't using a MA or MA2 approved engine oil. 

For the most part it has been a good machine and we have been happy with it.  The only time I wish I had a different machine is when we ride the trails in WV and our friends have Polaris RZR's and Cam Am's.  We can go anywhere they go but not as fast up extremely long hills. 

Mark

I burnt up the clutch in my MSU 700 (Tractor Supply special) at a little less than 3000 miles.  I was using Mobile 1 10w40.  Craig at Motorcycle DR said that I needed to be using a MA2 approved oil so I switched to another motorcycle synthetic oil that is MA2 approved.  We see how this clutch wears.  I fill mine to where the oil just shows up on the extend fill tube dip stick.

I've ordered from those same folks, I've not had a problem with any of the parts I've gotten from them.  I did purchase and install their oil dip stick setup to raise the oil level.  The problem I have with it, is that there are no clear markings on the dip stick (they may have changed this since I got mine).  It lead me to over filling it and it smoking.  (There's a thread on here about that.)  Now I just fill it to where the oil is just showing up on the bottom on their dip stick.  One plus with their setup is that it's easier to check and add oil, you don't have to reach as far down in the engine compartment to get to it.

+1

I don't have the stock/original seats or seat bases in mine.  I do recall one side being harder to get out than the other but I was always able to get them out.  Sorry, that I cannot help you on that one...

There is already a little insulation material on the underside of the engine cover.  If you add more I'd like to hear if it helps. 

strike250,

Thanks for the info.  I'll look into having the head ported, a performance cam and exhaust.

Is it ok to post a link to the kit on here?

Also, just from looking at pictures the MSU 700 head appears to be the Rhino 660 head, it has 5 valves, where the Rhino 700 head has 4 valves.  Again, that's just looking at pictures, I haven't torn mine down.

If Hisun makes the parts for other brands and the Massimo MSU (sold at Tractor Supply) is a Rhino clone.  Will after market engine parts for the Rhino 660 or 700 fit the MSU 700?  Particularly, the jug and head.  I would love to try the Rhino big bore (745cc) kit on my 700.

I use a 16 mm socket on the lug nuts on my MSU 700.

I realize this is a old post but if you are still having the metal to metal noise from the Arms I would check your bushings.  Mine wore out fairly quickly.  I order new ones from an online dealer and they are much better than the stock bushing.

It wasn't smoking, at least noticeably, until I changed the oil and re-filled it to the level recommended by the Dealer/Parts Supplier.   I will say that the oil level was low when I changed it and I had raised the oil level after prior oil changes as well.    But when the clutch failed and he reiterated that the type of oil and oil level were very important to longevity of the wet clutch, I may have added too much oil.

I drove it last night and it smoked very little.

Thanks,

Mark

I couldn't get the oil drain loose on my MSU 700 either.  So I picked up one of those oil extractors.  Remove the dip stick insert the tube all the way and pump to suck all the oil out.   Never crawl under it to change the oil again!

Does anyone have the compression specs for the MSU 700 engine?  Mine is smoking something terrible at times and I would like to do a compression test prior to tearing it down. 

Also will too much oil cause it to smoke?  To improve the wet shoe clutch wear, a dealer/parts supplier suggested that I raise the oil level to the bottom on the dip stick threads, which is approximately 3/4 of a quart.

A little background this is a 2016 (I purchased it new in April of 2016) MSU 700 (Tractor Supply version) it now has approximately 500 hrs and 2900 miles on it.  I use it almost daily on the farm and also take it to the VA and VW mountains to trail ride.  I thought the belt was slipping, well I know it was slipping, so I replaced the belt and changed the oil, but new tires on it, greased, etc... When I finished it smoked like a freight train and I realized that the clutch was slipping also.  Oh, I've used Mobile 1 V-Twin Motorcycle (supposed to be for wet clutches but not MA or MA-2 approved) oil in it since the first oil change.   I replaced the wet clutch and switched to a synthetic motorcycle oil that is MA-2 approved.  No more belt or clutch slipping but it still smoked heavily.  Yesterday I ran it at the Rev limit in low and it stopped smoking.  I checked the oil, added a little to bring the level back up to the dip stick threads.  It started smoking again until I ran it at the Rev Limit for a few minutes then it stopped smoking.