Zorro

SOLD - SORRY CANT FIGURE OUT HPW TO DELETE THIS POST

Is there a place to post your Joyner for sale on here??? I looked but I do not see it, but that does not mean much, my wife says I have selective hearing and sight.

I've replaced all my bal joints with good automotive ones with greese fittings and good boots. No slop anymore. I'll be posting what I did shortly. Tie rod end joints are fairly easy but doing the spindle assembly ball joints Is much more involved and requires a lathe and mill. I may do some checking to see if I can get closer ball joints I can purchase and modify to offer for sale. Pretty busy right now though. When I did mine, I went to NAPA, Auto Zone and Checkers and went through each box they had one by one looking for a fit. Called Fereral Mogal and they said they have no spec book loisted by size, everything is special designed for each vehicle. If yougive him a part number he can give dimensions but otherwise not.

Lenny

Lenny, can you hook me up with some ball joints???

I've replaced all my bal joints with good automotive ones with greese fittings and good boots. No slop anymore. I'll be posting what I did shortly. Tie rod end joints are fairly easy but doing the spindle assembly ball joints Is much more involved and requires a lathe and mill. I may do some checking to see if I can get closer ball joints I can purchase and modify to offer for sale. Pretty busy right now though. When I did mine, I went to NAPA, Auto Zone and Checkers and went through each box they had one by one looking for a fit. Called Fereral Mogal and they said they have no spec book loisted by size, everything is special designed for each vehicle. If yougive him a part number he can give dimensions but otherwise not.

Lenny

When you drill these out are you doing it on a press or as it is mounted??

All the sudden my T2 started overheating driving down a dirt road close to home. Fan was working and everything looked fine. I grabed my air compressor and started blowing it on the front side of the radiator, it looked clean not clogged with mud or anything like that however, I was shocked at how much dirts blew out of the fins!!! This fixed everything, no more

over heating!!! so even if the radiator looks clean the fins could simply be clogged with dust and dirt deep inside.

Wow, I just pulled my upper bolt and now I see exactly what you are talking about.

First off I found my bolt threads were totally gone and I was not even using that much pressure to remove it, I don’t know how it even felt tight unless previous owners used a whole bottle of high temp lock tight on it. There is no part of that stock bolt that comes close to intersecting the half moon of the ball joint shaft. No wonder they just fall out.

It just seems stupid for a manufacture to put it together that way. Soon as I turned the bolt the ball joint fell out, and I've been driving this thing 60 mph down our roads with my kids in oncoming traffic. This could have killed us when I do my fifth gear wheelies! I have read you’re posts to check these ball joints but I had only made sure the bolts were tight, there needs to be a special “Warring Bulletin” on this subject.

I need all new ball joints , tie-rod ends, and hime joints does anyone have these????

The bigger bolt is large enough to actually go through the quarter moon cutout in the balls shank holding it from sliding out even if the bolt gets loose. On mine, the stock bolts completely missed the quarter moon cut out so if they got loose, the ball could just fall out. I now use the 1/2" grade 8 bolts and no problems since.

Lenny

Hi Lenny, I was changing tires today and noticed when I jacked up the front the left upper ball joint slide out aleast half way.

Bolt was tight so it looks like I need to do the same as you. Question, are you doing the drilling with everything in place or do I have to remove the whole hub assembly and do it in a drill press?

Thanks

T-minus 1 hour and 20 minutes till launch, loaded up and ready to hit the road.. See you guys tomorrow for those of you headed there!

Tires and wheels look great! What size are they???

I just ordered one from you guys I cant wait to try it I also have 30 inch tires and a turbo my arms feel like they are going to fall off after a good day of riding. Hope you ship it soon

How well has your powersteering been working?

The King shocks are great. I didn't have to do any modifications at all - just simply bolted them in. Depending on the riding I'm going to do, I adjust the nitrogen pressure before I head out. For example, if I'll be riding on hardpack I increase the pressure so I don't get as much roll cornering. For the rougher, cross country stuff, I lighten it up a bit. So far, I can honestly say it was well worth all the money ... and they were expensive!

I've had my T2 about 6 feet in the air .. unintentionally .. and it landed solidly, absorbing the impact and maintained control. The guys I was riding with were totally impressed.

Barry thanks for the info, what preasures are you adjusting too?

Greg

I have a complete set of shocks available as I've upgraded to Kings last year. I have no idea what they're worth but I'm willing to trade them off. What I need is one of those new lever controlled 4 wheel drive lockers.

How do you like the King shocks so far? Did you have to do any modifications to make them fit?

I see all this talk on shocks was back in 2008 Whats the latest? Most of what you are talking about is over my head.

I want some good shocks for my T2 without having to change mounting brackets if thats possible. I just want to be able bolt on and go. How are the King shocks? Man they are spendie!!!

Has anyone other than King developed shocks for the T2?

Hey was wondering if anyone had what i would consider a rear driver side swing arm. Used or new doesnt matter and a rear driver side fender in red. i am trying to get out of having to drive to dallas to get my this done under warranty and thought if i could buy these cheaper online i would just do the work myself and know that it is done right

If ya don't mid me asking what happened to yours? If you are in a pinch and you can't get one from Arlington or any where else I would take it to any fab weld shop and have them duplacate it for me.

Yes, I had that same banging noise and it drove me crazy. One thing you may wish to try first is checking the nitrogen pressure in the shocks first. When I did this, the one shock was empty and once refilled it eliminated the banging noise for about an hour. The seals were gone and the nitrogen leaked out and the stock shocks aren't rebuildable. I got my shocks from McCoy Motorsports http://www.tobefast.com/king-1100-trooper-shock-set-c-63654-p-1-pr-10000175.html

As I live in a remote area of Canada, my cost increase was due to the exchange rate on the dollar and the shipping costs. As the site advertises, four shocks for $2560. I've got pics of them installed on my T2 in the Gallery

Barry

Thanks Barry, this is all I am going to be thinking about

Zorro, I had the same issues with my T2 and I took the plunge and put on some King off-road racing shocks all around and it has a made a huge difference. I didn't have to make any modifications, just bolted them in and the difference it has made on the ride was incredible. But be warned, they weren't cheap - paid about $3k for the four shocks and springs - but it truly has made the T2 a great riding machine.

Wow 3k I wonder how is Lenny getting his for $250.00each? Come to think of it my sons racing shocks for his quad cost me darn near that much. So did you have the same banging noise im talking about and did the new shocks take care of that? Did you get a much softer ride with the Kings? Do you have a website for them?

Thanks for your help!

Shocks on the trooper is the best thing you can do for them, it is such a big difference in ride, you will love the fronts even more than the back.

Flatbed, I am new to Joyners and just got my T2 a month ago and I hate my front shocks. They squick and sound like they are banging around on rough stuff. I have saturated the springs with WD-40 and that has helped with the squeeks but that banging noise drives me crazy. I have checked the mounts and they are tight. What Lenny is doing is way over my head so I dont even want to go there What would you recomend for a real good set of replacements? All I do is trail riding and going fast where ever I can, no jumping? I cant figure out what the banging noise is for sure because everything is tightly bolted and it did have the upgraded sterring box cover.

Thanks

Greg

When I got my trooper a few weeks ago there were no clamps on the square end of the rubber boots to the steering box.

I tried hose clamps & zip ties but they just slipped off. I could not find any square clamps any where. I took a foldler holder from my filing cabinet and took the steel rods out that you use to hang it in the cabinet. The width and thickness was perfet to fit the rubber boots. I cut them down and shaped them square with tabs to fit the boots, drilled holes in the tabs for a small bolt and nut. It work perfect!! I also ran .025 wire from clamp to clamp at each corner to insure these boots could not slip off.

Cheep fix and it only took me about 30 minutes.

I have been following this because mine is messing up, but to clarify, this dropped in the existing holes with no modification, Correct?

You can expect to see this in Parts & pieces, so any information is appreciated.

Kinarfi

Thats correct, I spend a whole day running all over the Dallas area going to every different auto part and performance stores I could find. With every single one I found the bezel was just barely larger than the two" body so the guage would just fall through the cut out in the dash. This one I fould at the marine store had the same bezel width as the original gauge and fit perfectly in the dash. It was worth all my time tracking this down because I did not want to cut a new hole in my dash and I am not talented enought to make a back plate that would have suported the gauge and still look nice.

My cut out seemed a little hogged out, others may have a cleaner cut out where a regular gauge will fit. I like the idea that this is desighed for marine use so it should hold up to the weather and powerwashing as aposed to one made for the interior or a car.

I will take a pic of it and try to get it on here today. Nice to know I can contribute something here

Good job, can you supply some part numbers and where you got your stuff, maybe even a photo of the new gauge & adapter.

One thing I have found that work well for adapting is 2 pieces of 1/8" lexan, left over from my airplane crash, paint it black on the back side and it's nice & shiny. If you have an aversion to poking holes in you dash for new switches, indicator lights & such, that little hole above the steering wheel works well for temporary things. use 2 pieces of flexible plastic and a bolt or something the hold them together.

Kinarfi

I found these at a Local Marine Suppy store

Sending Unit -- TeleFlex Morse Part # IA15001 0-80 psi, 240-33 ohm

Gauge -- TeleFlex Morse Part # 57903P 0-80 psi, 240-33 ohm

Manufactured by Veethree Elec. & Marine LLC

The gauge looks great and has a bright light, easy to see and read at night.

You can't mix match these, you have to replace both keeping the (240-33ohm) or you will not get a correct reading.

Unlike the combos sold at the auto parts store, these two are sold seperatly and togeather cost aprox $80.00 UGH, Oh well it fits perfect, works and looks great!

Turned out the gauge was shot and not a single original one could be be found. I debated on just going with a manual unit but I had a few concerns fearing the heat from the headers might melt the plastic tubing and or something would catch on the tubing

with the kind of trail riding we do. Anyway I bought a new gauge and sending unit from the local parts store then I ran into a new problem, the bezel on the original is much wider than the new one, so the new one just fell throught the hole in the dash. I did not

have a way to make a back plate that wouldnt look like crape so I traveled to every auto parts store I could find and they all had the same thing. I finally went to a marine store and they had one that fit perfect, which was probably the best way to go for being exposed to the elements. I was excited to see 60 psi when I fired it up concidering it did not work when I bought it.

Thanks for all your help

If your up above 6000 RPMs or so you probably will hit the rev limiter . I used to all the time on mine until I went to bigger tires and did some other things which completely changer how the engine runs. The stock Trooper would hit it's sweet spot at around 4300 RPMs and in second it would rev to over 6000 quickly.

Lenny

Hey Lenny, yeah it does it as it gets close to 6000rpm and that comes really fast. Im running 15" wheels with 29 inch street tires right now. Do you have any suggestions for changing anything up.

Also have a few more dumb questions as I do not have a manuel to study, Do I need to service the carcoal canister fi so how?

Oli preasure gauge does not work on the dash, would that normally be the gauge or sending unit? Is the sending unit what I see

just above the oil filter to the right with the wires connceting to it?

What is the gauge for on the drivers side by the radiator I am guessing it is a fuel preasure gauge? it registers on 6 when at an idel, is that normal? Also it looks like there is supose to be a small vacume hose attached to it that is pointing towards the back?

Thanks for your help

Greg

My 1100 Trooper runs great but when I get on it in 2nd gear it seems to be bogging down and sputters like a rev limiter is kicking in to soon. 3rd, 4th and 5th gears runs out great with no issues. Any ideas wnat would cause this in 2nd gear?

Do you have an owners manual? If not, PM me with your email address and I'll dend you a pdf file of it. By the way, I have 2 brake calipers on each wheel for better stopping power. Havn't driven it yet.

Lenny

He Lenny, I recieved it in the mail yesterday. Have not had a chance to look at it yet but THANK YOU!!! for your time and efforts!!!!

Ball Joint Fix pictures from current events photos on webshots

Wish I could give you a car, year, and model so you could go get what you need, but while your working on this, if you open the steering box up, would you please measure the distance between the stops and report back, Also If you find the information, Please post & I'll put it in parts and pieces.

Thanks

Kinarfi

No Problem I will be happy to.

Can anyone tell me what the front Ball Joints and Tie Rods ends are for the 08 Trooper? Mine are shot and was wondering if I could just go to to the local auto parts store? Of course they will want to know year make and model of a car.

Thanks