Quantcast
Jump to content

Everyday Medic

Members
  • Content Count

    5
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Everyday Medic

  • Rank
    Newbie

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I wanted to thank you for all your help. I tracked back the red and found the splice, all was good there. I did replace the red wires from the ignition and voltage regulator to the 30 amp fuse. I did not in line splice just ran two wires to the fuse connection, and put them togeather in the connector. The Voltage regulator still works this far. I used connectors to attach the new wires then used silicon to seal and prevent arching. Once again thank you.
  2. Thank you for all the tips. I will be tracking back ye ol Red today. Thanks for the bonus tips. The battery is no longer factory, it a a dual deep cycle battery set up with automatic isolator. Because I plow I put a huge demand on the batteries with the winch, the lights (low draw led light bar). I have also installed a hydraulic pump for my custom hydraulic blade turn. Because I put alot of demand on the machine and being an ex helicopter pilot I religiously change the dif fluid beginning and end of ever plow season, I know more then needed but it is small amount and a little peace of mind. I did run into the cooling fan issue, actually replaced the temp sensor a few times over the years until that no longer worked. I then dug deep into the system and in the absolute most awkward place I found a diode in the circuit, after testing that diode and finding it had failed, I replaced with a high quality one,that was the issue when changing the temp sensor out did not work. Now 2 years no issue. The coolant has been completely changed in the machine, me and my preventive maintenance. Also installed a small heater core/fan heater in the cab, so that required a change of coolant. Winter gets damn cold here, and plowing always seems to happen at night in the worst winds and snow storms. Yuppers have a cab cover. I appreciate every bit of insight you have provided.
  3. Yes, thank you. Lucky enough for me the stator appears to be working in proper order across all tests. I have worked my way back and tested the voltage regulator as well. This was completed by attaching the 3 leg leads to the posts of the regultor, then testing the voltage on what I know the ground and the battery lead are this let me know the which leads on the voltage regulator, for which wires After some careful consideration I believe the issue came down to a faulty red wire, when this is measured I get 6 volts of current on a good battery. With widly swinging resistance but not to ground. I believe that the red wire has broken somewhere along the line and has caused the issue. I am going to simply bypass the red (increase the guage as well) to the battery. However my problem is, that I need to find where the factory red leads to. I do not want to leave a possible hot wire anywhere in the system. Although it would be super impressive at the end of my 3km driveway mid winter blizzard to have a bonfire, the wife disagrees So by chance do you have any idea where the red lead from the regultor goes to. If I can avoid the the mess of a wire loom I'd be beyond happy. Thank you very much for all your help.
  4. Thank you very much for the insightful and complete answer. Straight up hate the electeical on the bike. I will be replacing the stator, running .1ohms across 2 phases. Thank you.
  5. I have a 2012 HS700UTV EFI, I am from canada so it was marketed under the name power max roughrider 700. I use this machine to plow and general yard work. I have been slowly over the years working electrical bugs out. Yesterday the SxS well my son was using it began to make a wire burning smell. We found that the wires coming into the voltage regulator/rectifier had burnt and melted the plug. Because if this I will be replacing the voltage regultor. Before I replace (have to the plastic is destroyed) I wanted to test the stator to ensure that there was not an over power. Now I know this is very very doubtful as I believe wires in the harness had shorted eachother causing the melt down. But just to be sure. I would like to know if anyone can answer, what the ohms reading should be across the windings of the stator. It is still in the bike. Second, there is 5 wires... 3 white they plug into the bottom or back side of the regultor. There is one black and a red with white strip, which two terminals would these plug into on the front of the regultor? I know the center front is it used as this is plugged on the now melted connector. Thanks for any advice and help. John.


×
×
  • Create New...