Mackc
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Posts posted by Mackc
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19 hours ago, Albert21 said:
Alright sounds like a good start.
You need to download a service manual for your model UTV, since you have access to the internet. There is a page on this forum where you can get one downloaded and IT IS FREEEE! , as Joe Natmath says on TV. You may need to use a computer or maybe even a smart cell phone, I used my desktop computer.
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On 1/10/2022 at 8:23 AM, Albert21 said:
I wish I knew what happened. After I shifted it into gear it started making a different noise and died. I got out and looked underneath it and found that! Barely a year old.
I would think that the part that blew up would be all that is bad, looks like it showed you where the problem is
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this is just the nature of the beast "gears grinding when shifting " make sure it is idleing BELOW 2000 RPM' OR STOP , kill the engine , shift Gear, put your foot on brake and start the engine"
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On 10/2/2021 at 4:30 AM, Scott Meszaros said:
can't say about hisun, but on our mule, key must be on for power port to work......
Sorry , Scott but you seem to be searching for answers rather than being helpful for us that don't have Mule SUVs, I did have a 3010 water cooled Mule, and likemost asian SUvs it was an electronic nightmare.
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On 10/3/2021 at 5:34 AM, Scott Meszaros said:
our mule has windshield and complete cab enclosure......engine noise isn't an issue as i normally have "radio headphones" on (and engine is only single cylinder 400 cc).....as for less heat in summer, windows down and i have a 12 volt fan for air circulation.........as i mentioned before, i use portable genny and space heater for heat, plus use the fan directed toward windshield to keep "fogging" to a minimum while plowing snow..........i am not familiar with cfmoto u force, but i am sure you can "mcgyver" something..........
I also had a 3010 Mule and sound wasn't a problem, this problem was concerning a Massimo Buck 400.
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Get some heat but mostly noise.
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16 hours ago, Scott Meszaros said:
what are you trying to accomplish.........?..............keeping warm in winter?.....if so, you will need a heat source.......i use a 2200 peak watt portable genny in bed of mule, hooked up to a 1500 watt space heater..............works great......no additional insulation
I want the sound of the engine to be dulled in the cabin and the heat from the engine reduced in the cabin in summer.
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What type and brands of insulation do you use in the cabin, floor and engine compartment of your Massimo and related 4 by 4 UtVs specially Massimo Buck 400s?
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I do have a couple of suggestions, first always allow the engine to idle below 2000RPM, if it won't do that adjust the idle down to around 1800 RPMS, If that still don't work keep your foot on the brake peddle and kill the engine, then with your foot still on the brake shift into the gear you need and hit the starter, my 400 Buck will then start.
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On 3/11/2021 at 11:36 AM, Rob DeVido said:
Hi all! My name is Rob and I'm new the the UTV world. I'm Glad to be here and learn from the experts here on the forum.
I have a frustrating question to ask the experienced members on here regarding the gear oil for my Coleman 400. The manual recommends for the final drive SAE 80 API GL-4 Hypoid gear oil and for the Diff SAE 80 API GL-5 Hypoid gear oil. I can't find this stuff anywhere( I'm in Calgary by the way) ..especially the GL-4 stuff. If I find something close , it's not Hypoid , or only GL-5 What is everyone using , whats safe? is the dual rated stuff good to use in both places, most of the dual rated stuff I find saids not recommended for a wet clutch. Obviously I have a lot to learn about this , so I'm here to learn and ask for some advice. Appreciate any input, help and guidance.....thanks -Rob
I have a Massimo 2019 Buck 400 and the wet clutch uses the engine oil . The transmission and final drive both use gear oil
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I worked in Lafayette, New Iberia and Houma for Big Red my Job as Auditor for Hazardous materials from 1982 to when I retired in 1997 and didn't let them gators bother me either Did a lot of fishing. several times I had to swing around some of the big ones when they decided to warm themselves on the road or just slowly walk across the road.
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7 hours ago, cliffyk said:
I have a Liqui-Vac "suck-o-matic"¹ 2000 2 gallon hand pump vacuum unit I use on our small engines when I get lazy:
I used it on my Outfitter 400 at the first change and got out a tiny bit more than 2 qts.; per factory specs the 400 holds 2.2 with the filter so I got most of it from it from the crankcase and did not have to crawl under it.
Though it goes against my basic nature I may use it again at the next change. If I get 2 qts. again I'll b e a happy camper...
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¹ - I really shouldn't call it that as it works quite well--I've had it for well over 10 years. It's like a vacuum cleaner--they more they suck the better they are.
My Buck 400 holds 1.4 Qts. and I figure it was prudent to use the other half Qt to mix with the small residual anount the vacuum would not pick up. since I buy 2 Qts for an oil change, I didn't want to contaminate the sump with other oil than what should be put into the engine, , I figure on the third oil change I wil go under and pull the drain plug and clean the screen.
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On 1/26/2021 at 11:44 AM, MassBuck400 said:
OK I called Massimo Tech service. It is as I thought but I don't like it. There is a hex nut at the bottom of the dipstick. You have to remove the entire dipstick to fill wit oil.
Not a smart setup. It takes about 1.4 QT. of 10W30.
This is what you have. To do an oil change without trying to pull the drain plug and it's attached oil screen, pull the dipstick and use a short handle 7/8" open end wrench to unscrew the dipstick bushing from the aluminum engine sump casting, yes the shifting cable is in the way, be careful not to break the shifting cable housing. I used an oil change suction pump (12 volt) to suck out the used oil, added a half Qt of new oil to mix with the residual old oil in the sump and then use the suction pump to suck out the half Qt of new oil and the residual old oi,. Since you will only need a Quart and half to fill the sump. You will need the remaining qt. and 1/2 of oil.
I used an old automatic transmission oil funnel to fill the sump with new oil. Screw the dipstick bushing back in the engine and check the oil level with the dipstick back and be ready to go.
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On 1/28/2021 at 4:02 PM, Travis said:
36 days of no faults, i started it up to go feed, killed it, loaded the feed, started right up, drove for a little bit, killed it to pour out the feed, started right up, go back to the barn, close all gates and what not, back to the mule, Click, Click, Click, with no sign of starting.
luckily being young enough to have some stretch in my muscles, i was able to jump the starter posts, while holding the key in start and she fired up.
drove back to the house, killed it, and started without problem, like normal....
Now, i have plan, if it keeps on doing this and it was not just a one time deal, all i need to do is remove the flywheel housing. that will give me a perfect view of the flywheel and starter gear, so i can see what they're doing when it just clicks, if it's jamming against the flywheel or not....
i hope it was just this one time....
Is this with the old solenoid? I
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7 minutes ago, kenfain said:
That should be plenty
A good strong fully charged battery that is tested with this type of tester should read around 13.6 volts with no load and hold 12 volts under load, and return to 12.8 volta or more unless it has a bad cell or a bad terminal.
$37.xx on Amazon
4 minutes ago, kenfain said:That's typically what the bendix sounds like. At this point, assuming the cable is indeed good. It seems to be narrowed down to either the solenoid, or the starter motor.
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On 10/6/2020 at 10:32 PM, Travis said:
you're sick of chinese Crap but really can't afford the good OEM part?
Starter on the mule, i finally replaced the old D&B electrical starter (on august 28th) on it that was at least 5 years old with probably a million starts on it and apparently D&B no longer makes it/sells it, so i bought a $53 starter from CHYNA on amazon.. on august 19th, well here it is barely 1.5 months later, it clicks several times before it will spin over, all connections were good and i tested the key switch, and trigger wire voltage as well as the starter relay according to the service manual and they all check out. usually a tap with a hammer or if i turn the key back and forth fast several times it will kick in and start. would it be worth my time to remove the starter and lube it??
I've got the Denso and Kawasaki part numbers but boy... $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
even a Reman denso is $230.
does anyone know of a decent aftermarket starter maker that might have one?
i've 12.5 volts at the big cable, and i get the same at the trigger wire as the manual states, but when its in F or R i get no voltage at the trigger, so i know the Neutral safety is working properly.
and if anyone can find one the DB starter was 190-542 18450
Okay, Maybe it ain't the STARTER! Maybe you havent checked all the possibilities;
Battery dead cell Batteries are cheaper than starters, and often go bad.
Bad connectioin to solinoid,
start switch
Poor ground?
Did you ever switch batteries?
or boost the battery, or bypass the battery cable with a booster cable,
or maybe your flywheel is bad. Kawasakies have way too many electronic safety things, some of them could be intermittened
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On 1/24/2021 at 11:56 AM, Joe Breaux said:
so ,only the front axles lock and unlock ?...... then why does my MSU 500 have controls to engage 2wd or 4wd and then seperate control to engage 4wd LOCK along with indictors on dash to show whats engaged ? just fake?
From what I am seeing the 4 wd switch engages and disengages the front wheel drive, and maybe it don't work when the transmission is in REVERSE?
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Massimo Tech? could that be an oxymoron term for a person that bolts wheels onto a Chinese crate job?
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On 3/20/2020 at 9:27 PM, T-boss 410 said:
Are we talking about the front or rear differential? The front diff is the one that locks when the 4X4 is engaged. At least, that's what the tech said. I don't know about the rear diff. I have downloaded both the owner's manual and the parts manual, but I don't remember seeing anything about the rear diff.
Sorry to disappoint you about the rear "differential" There is NO DIFFERENTIAL in the rear! The rear end is just a ring gear and pinion, If you doubt what I am saying jack up both rear wheels and with the shifter in neutral and the parking brake off, spin one wheel, if the opposite wheel turns the same direction as the one you are spinning there is no differential when you turn, the wheels slide around the corner, both at the same speed
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On 11/14/2020 at 7:37 PM, Travis said:
I have no idea what to do...
started up great 3 times, then click click click click.
I get 12.75 volts at the trigger wire, and 12.75 volts at the + post on the solenoid (drops to just above 12v when starting) with the key in the start position. If it were the relay i doubt i would get full battery voltage on the trigger wire.
i do not think its the neutral switch since when i put in F or R with the key in the start position the solenoid clicks back since power is cut to it, then clicks again when i put it back to neutral.
I even re-tested the starter circuit relay, it checks out good.
Actually a full battery should show 13.6 +or- VDC so you are ok, just need to use a load battery checker to see if your battery puts out the volts and amps it is supposed to.
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About whether there is a "locking differential" on their UTV?????? There is so much misinformation appearing here from folks that don't have any idea what they are posting, check it out for yourself rather than jumping on the smart phone or computer and asking questions.
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On 11/22/2020 at 11:00 AM, Tom Hoppes said:
I must be lucky since I've had zero problems with my Buck 400 in 700+ miles.
As mentioned above the ignition switch sounds bad. Mine shifts hard or grinds if the motor is on high idle, I just give it a second or two to slow down then no problem.After starting in neutral let the engine RPMs drop below 2000 before shifting into gear.
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On 11/22/2020 at 12:36 PM, KentC said:
I do not believe the Buck has a synchromesh transmission and it is recommended not to shift without stopping. Each time the transmission grinds it is wearing the gears until it eventually fails. It also leaves metal chips in the oil which causes other problems. It is important to change the transmission oil in the buck to remove any chips or pollutants, especially since the clutch shares this oil.
Clutch shares the engine oil.
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Does it ever turn the engine over at all ?
If not pull the sparkplug out to relieve the compression and try the starter, I bet it may be the battery, cable or solinoid .
Hey, I am over 80 years old been working on cars and trucks ever since I was a pup. I rebuilt the engine on my 1930 Ford model A when I was 12, and I still got stymied with a 12 volt battery with some bad cells. and a leaking carb float valve that filled my single cylinder engine's cylinder with gasoline (guess what....gasoline don't compress) while it was parked for a month. I have been learning new stuff forever. I am not a big fan of Japanese and Chinese 4 cycle Internal Combustion engine designs. 😒
Location of massimo tboss 410 ecu
in Massimo UTV SxS Forum
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AMEN!