Fib103182

11 hours ago, Andy Dickerson said:

My other question would be installing the shim moves the outer clutch closer to the engine thus raising the belt higher in t e sheave producing more low-end torque? Th s change would help for better climbing ability along with the higher-pressure spring on the secondary clutch that would also help in the same manner? How noticeable was the change in climbing/takeoff etc... for you? Do you ride in hi  toranly areas?

Like I said I had 4 28x12x12 outlaw 2's and I could drop off in a pretty thick deep mud hole and it would go or dig itself stuck bad but never stop turning ties and never burnt a belt up. Now what I have done is push the thickness of my shim a little to much and ran my belt off the top of the  clutch. I guess and blew the belt to pieces. I'm not sure if I really ran the belt off over the clutch from it riding to high but if not I guess it may have squeezed or just put much tension on the belt. But at about 60mph when it blew the belt that 2015 700hs crew. I didn't know  what all the smoke and popping was. It was wrapped around everything inside the clutch cover. I was playing with shims at that point and trying to find what I liked. It wasn't 1.8 either. I've always found shim with the thickness of 1 or 1.2 (what ever measuring system is used) works best for me but they are all different. Make sure you still have some threads left on the clutch housing bolt threads after shimming. Very important.

I've heard some argue the other way as well, but you understand what the purpose is anyway. Hope the information I was able to share has been useful. The process is not hard if you have mechanical skills. If I can help with anything else, please let me know. 

Just something I picked up on over the years. If you can find some 14 gram roller weights and replace every other factory roller weights (18 grams) that will help with your clutch engagement even more. It's simple and don't pack them full of grease cause it will go straight to your belt. Just a small amount only where you have to.

Shim Clutch Mod Fit for Yamaha Grizzly,Rhino, Bruin, Wolverine, Kodiak and Viking SUPR Kit 350 450 700 550 660 400 600 https://a.co/d/9Um0i1n

Here is a spring. They have different colors for different stiffness to fine tune your clutch.

Secondary Driven Clutch Spring - Gold For 2004 Yamaha YXR66F Rhino 660 Utility Vehicle https://a.co/d/ie14zs9

Yes, the Rhino 660 and the the hisun are pretty well interchangeable in about everything I've run into. I just shimmed my clutch with a shim kit I purchased online and changed the spring out with a stage 2 HD, and it works great for a fraction of the money. I done this same thing on a grizzly 660 4 wheeler with 29in x 12x12 outlaws on all 4 wheels, and my tires never stopped spinning in the mud but when i was stuck it was stuck. I actually never burnt out a belt with this setup either. Just figured I would mention in case saving some money and a better turnout or very close. Sorry, but one more thing is you can change out every other weight in the clutch from like a 450cc that lighter or you can go heavy, and that will change when it engages. 

Hope this was some help and not me just rambling on and on. Lol

Got it down to one bolt again and its stuck. It is a different one but I all I did is just crack them lose. Maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 turn but last one is stuck. This thi g is coming apart this time it dont matter if I have to take it to the scrap yard after this. I can't seem to find a radiator cap anyway. These things are officially junk in my book. I will not ever own another or even work on another one. POS....

Anyone know where to get a radiator  cap? I didn't realize they was so hard to find.

That was what I was going to try when I have time again. It actually kinda seems to not be losing any water since the exhaust valve adjustment.

Just a quick update. I this thing always down to one bolt and it is stuck. So put back together and adjusted the valves mainly the exhaust side and seem to run alot better and a little cooler. Who would have ever thought that letting exhaust out would help in staying cooler. Lol. Still need to get the stripped bolt out to do head gasket.

Ok i am now pretty sure head gasket is the issue as anyone that has read this probably know already. I've tried a few different stop leak type products to try to push it off till spring but dont think its going to happen. I replaced the old cooling fan which seemed to be good in till a removed it and the new one is so much better. My issue probably originally was the fan and thats what I've been trying to pen point before head gasket replacement. I appreciate everyone's input.

55 minutes ago, scott ryan said:

Sorry, no experience with this model. Looks like back of engine compartment is vented but I can't see the front.  Forced air front to back should help some. Otherwise that engine heat will just hang at the top of the shroud and continue to cook you. Doesn't look like much space for air to circulate to the front of the shroud.  You might try to wire a 12 volt fan into the front of the shroud to constantly force air. I have no idea why your cooling system would continue to build air if there are no leaks. Maybe vacuum test? Best luck to you.

I appreciate you taking the time to reply and your thoughts. They seem to be about the same as mine. I will try to let you know how it all turns out.

I have continued to try and cool this thing down and I'm not having any luck. I can let it run with the radiator cap off and with the front end point up on a steep hillside and burp some air out till I think its gone and completely full. Then go on a 45 mintue ride and without shutting it off when I get back, take the cap back off in same position and get more air out, fill it up with coolant, shut it off to cool over and over. Its is almost unbearable heat. Very unpleasant sitting in the seat and I have placed 2 layers of insulation underneath them and dont seem to cut it anymore? Help!!!! Please!!!!! Head Gasket????

Guess noone looks at this forum or maybe just have no advice in this area?

I believe my 2015 HiSun you hold the gas pedal to floor and let it hit the rev limiter for 3 seconds and shut the key off.  Im sure someone else will chime in and let us know if I am incorrect. Hope I was some help.

I have the same machine and you can adjust the throttle cable. Just find the little jam nut and screw the treads in. Mine will only go so low but it will go very high. Also your engine cover can put your cable in a bind and make the engine rev.

I took 18 wheeler mud flaps and cut them with a razor knife and attach to existing parts and panels on my unit. Most people that see the. Think they are factory. I just made sure I kept round smooth edges that didn't draw much attention. The bottom of the flap i tried to cover as much area to block the mud etc that flies at you. This helped alot with dust and even noise. Hope this helps.

I had this issue just a few weeks ago. I could also tell if I listened real close a change in idle when messing with wires. I ended up finding a soder joint between to voltage regulator and the engine from someone installing a aftermarket stator before I ownedit. It would run fine till the engine got nice and warm then die till it cooled off just a little. I would check around this parts and area. I hope this helps!

I have owned my 2015 Hisun HS700 Crew  for about 3 or 4 months now. I got it used and was supposed to run good but was not put all the back together from a stator upgrade due to previous owner said he was going to out a stereo system on it. Anyway I have worked it much more than I have rode it. I seem to work on it 2 days and ride it for a hour. Me, my wife, and 2 kids (10 and 18) enjoy it but the engine compartment gets so hot. I've replaced the water pump and burped the cooling system and any other thing I could think of to bleed the air out and think its good with no air and water circulating. Fan seems to run fine and be on about all the time. Changed the coolant twice and oil 3 times. I noticed the engine really has nowhere for heat to go because heat rises and no air flow at all. Has anyone had any experience in this area? Any DIY tricks or any advice in removing the heat out of the engine compartment and getting it to a tolerable temperature. Im about to sell it if I can't figure something out and go waste money on a big name brand but I won't have red legs and arm from engine heat burning me and my wife. They machine never acts like its to hot or anything but it feels like it is. Thanks in advance for any and all help.