Roadstar515
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Posts posted by Roadstar515
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Well coincider yourself lucky. I’ve been dealing with and oil leak which nobody could find. Looked like it was coming from drain plug but wasn’t. I finally found it coming from static cover. Damaged from factory, cover couldn’t seal properly against gasket from surface not being true to one another. Very frustrating to say the least. If the splash pan wasn’t welded solid to the frame so you could see properly, I would have found it sooner. Glad your not having any issues
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Great write and and pics. Thanks for taking the time to put that together.
Rick
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Ya I think that’s the way to go with this issue. I plan on doing mine when I get back from trip.
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Okay , perfect!
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Understood, how much did you purchase to do what you did?
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I’ll give it a try. How come you only did the bed and not more
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Ya please do, like to know what you end up using for sound matting. Sends some pics when you get it done. I’m sure it would help others as well. Thanks again
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Perfect!
Thanks, Rick
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Hey HighSon, did you ever get that exhaust silencer you had mentioned in post 24 of yours?
Inquiring minds want to know, 🤪
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Sounds like a plan, please post some pictures of the install and results of noise difference. Thanks
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That’s a far cry from just messin with the engine. Sounds like you have a few bucks in that motor. I bet it sounds and performs like a raped ape. Congrats. Don’t know if I’m willing to go that far but wanted a little bit of horse power and torque from stock. Thanks for the reply.
A picture of motor would be nice to show off.
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Your 100% correct. It is used as a lubricant for threads. I wrapped the threads and we will see what happens. Most likely I will have to get a thicker o-ring if it starts leaking again. Just don’t understand why it is like this and nobody else is leaking seeing they use the same setup. I don’t get back to side x side to October, so I’ll see if it leaked just sitting there. My fingers are crossed.
thanks for your reply
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On 8/12/2022 at 8:20 PM, Roadstar515 said:
Dealer is getting a new drain plug with matched Oring to go with it. I’m curious to see how deep the groove is on the new plug. Hopefully there will be a difference so I know I found the root cause, will see
Well got new drain plug and oring and looks identical to original and same crush distance. So what I did was Teflon taped threads being carful not to have any excess that would enter oil reservoir. Even though there is a strainer which would prevent that. Anyway, problem solved but would have liked to know why that was leaking in the first place. I still say it didn’t have enough crush to properly seal it the correct way as designed. I don’t like fixing symptoms, I’d rather fix root cause.
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On 8/10/2022 at 8:22 AM, Roadstar515 said:
So do you think this will work? I guess it’s cheap enough to try
Just latched up with new seat belt (let’s call it a key), and it fits just like seat belt lock. Just fyi, you only need drivers side to deactivate system cause passenger side is a different size and not needed.
thanks again for the lead on this
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On 8/10/2022 at 7:45 AM, aefron88 said:
Not sure on that one.
My UT400 has a copper crush washer on the bolt rather than an O-ring.
Can you try putting just the o-ring (no bolt) in the groove and see how much it sticks up past the face. IIRC orings are supposed to compress 30-40% for proper sealing. So it should stick 30%-40% of its thickness past the face. If it doesn't you could try a thicker o-ring with the same diameter.
They are sold in diameter as well as material thickness so you should be able to measure and order one. Keep in mind it is probably metric. Grainger is a good place to buy random weird size metric o-rings in my experience.
Edit: had one other random thought. I had a plug on my oil tanker that was a perpetual leader. It was gaskets internally. Anyway long story short after much frustration the issue was the hole was not tapped perpendicular with the deck it was going thru causing it to never seal tightly on both sides.
I wonder if your drain plug is tapped slightly crooked causing it to not seal on one side when the other side is tight?
Dealer is getting a new drain plug with matched Oring to go with it. I’m curious to see how deep the groove is on the new plug. Hopefully there will be a difference so I know I found the root cause, will see
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LoL, well I ordered two not knowing if passenger is required or not. Will,see what happens. Thanks for the info on that.it will make it easier to go back when needed without going under seat to disconnect.
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1 minute ago, TapBoss said:
I did find a post from cliffyk, but it was a 3d printer file. But he had pics and they were similar to that bottle opener one. A quick Amazon search and I found this:
So do you think this will work? I guess it’s cheap enough to try
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6 minutes ago, TapBoss said:
Racking my brain to remember who posted the clip they found on Amazon. It was one of the guys that's been around for awhile but he hasn't been on very much the past few months. I believe he had a Coleman (made by Hisun) so it's probably in that forum, or maybe general discussion.
That would be awesome if he would chime in for sure. I know everyone has a concern about wearing seatbelts and I do in car and truck. This machine is basically for running around the neighborhood on asphalt. This will never see off road or jumping hills etc. I bought it due to gas power golf cart doesn’t have enough a$$ to go up and down the mountain hills where we live in Georgia mountains. Thanks for chiming in on this topic.
If anyone knows of the correct clip to purchase, please let me know. I don’t want to cut wires or scotch lock connect perfectly good wiring. It will cause problems down the road.
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10 minutes ago, aefron88 said:
Not sure on that one.
My UT400 has a copper crush washer on the bolt rather than an O-ring.
Can you try putting just the o-ring (no bolt) in the groove and see how much it sticks up past the face. IIRC orings are supposed to compress 30-40% for proper sealing. So it should stick 30%-40% of its thickness past the face. If it doesn't you could try a thicker o-ring with the same diameter.
They are sold in diameter as well as material thickness so you should be able to measure and order one. Keep in mind it is probably metric. Grainger is a good place to buy random weird size metric o-rings in my experience.
Edit: had one other random thought. I had a plug on my oil tanker that was a perpetual leader. It was gaskets internally. Anyway long story short after much frustration the issue was the hole was not tapped perpendicular with the deck it was going thru causing it to never seal tightly on both sides.
I wonder if your drain plug is tapped slightly crooked causing it to not seal on one side when the other side is tight?
I’m thinking I’m only getting a 20% crush. That’s why I’m thinking that the drain plug groove was machined to deep preventing the proper crush. Will see what the dealer says. I’d rather get a new drain plug instead of bastard sizing with thicker o-ring. If that’s even what it is. Thanks for jumping in on this.
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21 minutes ago, Roadstar515 said:
Okay, I’ll look for it and see what the plug looks like, thanks! Have another issue with drain plug leaking from day one when purchased but will open up another thread
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57 minutes ago, TapBoss said:
That bottle opener one looks alot like the one in the 3D file in downloads.
2022 Hisun 750 flash ECU
in Hisun UTV SxS Forum
Posted
Ok, understand that but who sells the tune