Roadstar515

My drain plug is leaking at a slow pace but enough to be leaving oil on floor. Talk to dealer and I replaced o-ring and checked mating surfaces and all good. Still leaking but at a slower pace. Now dealer is calling Hisun to see what’s up. I’m thinking the recess in the drain plug was cut to deep and when installing o-ring it just doesn’t seem to leave enough rubber above the flush/crush portion of sealing surface. Maybe a defective drain plug, that would be my guess. Wondering if anyone has had this issue with there’s. Dealer said this is a first for him. Waiting on reply from dealer.

11 hours ago, aefron88 said:

Something like that will work i you can find the right size plug. They are litterally just a matching plug with a wire that runs between the two terminal also. You could do the same thing with a straightened paperclip and some electrical tape if you want.

The plug is under where the seat belt female part is, you can see the wires running down into the seat gap. Flip up the bed and follow the wires coming down from it.

Okay, I’ll look for it and see what the plug looks like, thanks! Have another issue with drain plug leaking from day one when purchased but will open up another thread to discuss

3 hours ago, Osney said:

Mine is the Sector E1 electric, which isn't particularly fast and struggles on hills. I use it as a farm vehicle for checking livestock and carting feed, for which is serves admirably (the Highland cows also like to use it as a scratching post). The seatbelt alarm is a pain when you've opened a gate and are driving through it before stopping, climbing out and closing it behind you. I quite agree that for any spirited driving the seatbelt is your friend.

Here is what I was going to use on Polaris but didn’t purchase. I don’t know if this would work on Hisun or if the plug any is like Polaris. Don’t know where to plug it in if is

Does anyone know of a bypass switch or controller. They make one for Polaris which installs into the harness that makes the ECU think it’s hooked up in normal position allowing vehicle to operate normally as if you are wearing seatbelt.

1 hour ago, Don W said:

Remember, some people would complain if you hung them with a new rope!!

Lmao!!!

Thanks for taking the time to put that together. Very important and useful information. Great job!

I assume the same process for exhaust valves?

Thanks Robert, good information for all that where wondering as I was.

I got 24” one from Amazon as well. Real happy with it. 

that maybe a great option.

Just be aware you may or may not restrict the exhaust flow which could loose a little horse power that these machines can’t afford to do, seeing they don’t have much compared to other manuf.

Scott, took your advise, removed one band on each side and made a big difference. I’ll try that for a while and see if that will be the way to go instead of removing door completely.

thanks, Rick

Ya, I now where foam ear plugs while riding which helps a lot. I ride motorcycles and worked in a power plant for 40 years. I can’t afford to loose anymore hearing at this point, already tired of saying what to my wife all the time. Although, it may just be wife deafness at this point. Lol 

thanks for your feedback

Rick

Just wondering if mine is the only one that’s seems very loud while driving. It just seems louder that other brands I’m use to. I guess you get what you pay for I’m assuming.

Regards, Rick

That’s a great idea, I’ll try that first. Yah that’s the biggest pain about he doors, otherwise I don’t mind them.

Trying to decide whether to remove doors or not. They make it more difficult to get in and out of cab. Has anyone removed there doors and if so, is it better or not.  

Regards, Rick

Makes total sense. It shouldn’t be a big deal to perform. I’m looking forward in doing it instead of having to trailer it to a dealer and renting a trailer. Not looking forward in being a contortionist to gain access and visually seeing the adjustment locations. A mirror will probably help.

Ok, that makes sense on being able to spin motor. I thought you would bump the starter to get there but your method would be more controllable. Thanks 

Ok , yah I don’t think I need to pull the fan cover on mine but not sure yet until I dig into it. Haven’t given it a lot of thought on what’s involved yet seeing I’m don’t have enough hours yet.

8 hours ago, aefron88 said:

I've read a couple people saying they found em out of spec from the factory. Just got my UTV recently and it's on my list here in the next couple weeks.

 

As far as tools should be easy: Allen wrench to pull the covers, 10mm box wrench for the lock nuts, a wrench for the adjuster, and a flat feeler gage set.

Pull the fan cover, pull the valve covers and spin it over check, and adjust as needed. The covers use an o-ring that should be reusable. Hardest part is going to be contorting my body to fit.

What size and make is you UTV? Also how many hours on it. Manual says check at 20 hours.

Your right about trying to fit in there to adjust. That will be the hardest part I’m sure. Thanks for the reply

Thanks really appreciate the feedback

Went for a short ride yesterday and didn’t realize it was going to be shorter than expected. Started heading up a hill and then started to miss and then died. The first thing I thought was here we go, it’s now started it’s first failure of many to come. Well lucky for me I opened up the bed and after scratching my head for ten minutes, I happened to look at the spark plug wire and it had backed off of the plug just enough to loose contact. After burning my hand on exhaust, (lol) I took a pair off needle nose pliers and squeezed the contact a little smaller and then snapped it back on and been perfect ever since. Just wanted you guys to know in case this happens to you. Only takes a second to check to eliminated this issue going forward.

Regards, Rick

Just happened to be doing a little pre trip inspection and noticed my hose kinked. It’s not causing any cooling issues but not going to leave it like it is. I’m thinking it has to be reducing flow. Just FYI if you guys are interested in looking at yours.

Regards, Rick

Does it just fit right in or a lot of modification to make it fit

Hey Curt, that makes total sense for it to be in that location. Why they use a strainer and not a magnetic drain plug, you got me. Glad to finally get the answer and be aware of what’s going to happen when I remove the plug. Still don’t understand the strainer reasoning but at least I know.

Thanks, Rick